Savage Build

I was gifted an MDT LSS chassis for Savage short actions. I want to put a 6.5 creed together. I was a planning on ordering an aftermarket barrel and attaching it to a donor rifle. I wanted to explore purchasing an action but I haven't pursued this route on a non-ar. What do I need to purchase to end up with a working rifle once assembled? For the sake of discussion if I wanted a Criterion/Shilen and have 1500 dollars in my hand what would your recommendation be? I will use the rifle to punch paper up to 600 yards but it could see general use so I don't want to get heavy. I'm looking to balance weight with performance (The chassis, butt stock, & grip weigh about 4lbs) but I'm open to any length or contour you'd recommend.

first off you have to see what the action screw spacing is on the MDT. Then you have to find the donor action (11, 12, 16). Once you have those, then you can order your CBI or Shilen, recoil lug, new barrel nut, and your headspace gauges.

If you play your cards right (Buying stuff on sale) you can get your build done for about $1000.00 and then another chunk of $$$ for Optics.... I built a .260 rem using a CBI barrel, 111 action, Boyd's Pro Varmint stock (which required new bottom metal), and a Sightron 6-24x50 for about $2000.00 all together.

I'm a lefty shooter though, so you may have better results sourcing parts and cheaper prices... For the CBI I would recommend looking at the Heavy sporter or Light Varmint contours given that you want it lighter rather than heavier.

I went with the Varmint contour @ 25"... my gun weighs in at 13 lbs roughly....

I did the same thing. You're already up a leg, because you received the MDT LSS chassis as a gift. I use the MDT TAC21 on my Savage build...but it wasn't gifted to me unfortunately. LOL!

Save some money, go with a USED gun to salvage the action. I picked up a used Model 10 in 243 Win. for under $180, off Gunbroker. Went with a 26" Shilen chromoly barrel in 6.5mm-08, 6.5mmx51 or 260 Rem, (whatever you choose to call it.:smile-new:), and S7 Varmint contour. Picked up a PTG billet steel recoil lug and barrel nut. Also using a Glades Armory Nitride bolt handle. Topped it with an Athlon Midas BTR 4.5-27x50 scope, mounted in an American Defense Recon-S 1-piece mount. I use the stock Accutrigger, but I have don trigger jobs on nearly every firearm I have owned. I actually just made a thread explaining the modification. I still want to pick up a PTG bolt body & head to finish off the build. I'm right around $1800 into my build total. But over $600 was the chassis. So with a $1500 budget while already having the chassis, you are in fine shape my friend.

You've got some good options. Unused model 12 actions are nearly constantly available in the "for sale" boards of this site. If you are willing to wait, Cabelas frequently has sales on the model 12FV rifles and Savage has had rebate programs in the past at the same time. Combine the two and a 12FV can be had for under $250 OTD tax included, not including possible additional discounts by buying gift cards at 12% off. You can often sell the new, un-used barrel for a good price on the same boards and recoup half your original layout. That's a very inexpensive start and you're getting new parts!

I put together one such gun last year. CBI barrel, precision nut and recoil lug. A new Stockysstocks Bobby Hart long range stock, not cheap but not expensive glass. I'm into it for under $1500 and it shoots dots.

Have a ball, and let us know how it turns out!

Thanks for the input all!

What's the difference between the savage actions? I see the short is offered in varmint, 10, and target - factory trued, trued, or normal.

I've been toying with running a 19-21" fluted barrel somewhere between lt. varmnit & lt target. Any ideas? Lots of contour choices out there these days LOL.

What did you guys choose for butt stocks?

Check the FAQ's section for answers to your questions about actions. There are many different types of actions built by Savage, including those built before the bankruptcy. Model 12 actions come in large and small shank form, and long (model 112) and short so know which one your interest is in before cinching a deal. Some will champion short, fat barrels, especially for field carry varmint or deer rifles, so this might just be what you're looking for. They can be quite deadly even out to considerable distances.

I recommend looking for the cheapest Accutrigger model you can find. The doner rifle I found was a "youth" model. All you need is the action, bolt assembly & trigger. I would also recommend a 20" barrel. Either Criterion or Shilen will work well. Both are extremely high quality, with hand lapped bores. I chose the Shilen, but would have no issues with a Criterion. 20" gives good harmonics & about the longest I would use in the MDT LSS chassis. It was designed for actions using shorter barrels. Also, check out my thread on modifying the trigger. Have a great trigger pull for about $3 of hardware.

Thanks for all the advice! This is a group worth supporting!

mchljrdn, This is my own opinion and not meant to contest any of the posters with differing opinions. As far as the action goes, a LRP repeater action is my fist choice. But as long as it is a Top Release you are good to go. I don't care for the Accutrigger. They can be tuned but for me there is no room for the safety blade on a target rifle. If you have the money buy a SAVII(or a SSS if you can find one) and sell the Accutrigger to someone who thinks they are the bomb. Also short barrels are cool but if you go out past 600 you will have to either deal with the wind or push it harder. Go as long as you can live with. You can always lop the end off if you don't like it.

He is kinda stuck using a shorter barrel. The LSS chassis is designed for, basically Carbine length barrels! That’s why I recommend the 20”. Pretty much the longest length the LSS was designed for(little longer actually, but will work fine). Otherwise I certainly would have recommended a longer barrel. I have a 26”, and kinda wish I had gone with a 27” or 28”.

Is the “someone who thinks they are the bomb”, referring to me? Haha, ok. Not certain why knowing gunsmithing tasks like trigger work is thinking I’m “the bomb”, but ok.., anyway....

mchljrdn, it seemed to me that you are looking to put a rifle together, using the chassis you already have, and not looking to spend a ton of money.. That was my take on your venture. Was I wrong? If so, I agree! Forget about the LSS chassis you have. Sell it as well, or just put in a closet. Get an LRP for over $1000 & rebarrel immediately. (You can probably sell the LRP barrel as well.) Forget your precious barrel choices though and go with a 28” Bartlein, Brux or McGowan it that order of 1st, 2nd, 3rd choice. Spend the $160 on a Sav2 trigger, and I guess sell the Accutrigger to ME, so I can be a bomb or something. Pick either a super high end chassis or a Carbon bench stock with aluminum bedding. (Still need to further bed these with epoxy.) And lastly, look at glass optics above $1800. Anything less is tier 2.


And if you don't see my humor at outlining investing a stupid amount of money into a Savage then there may be a problem with your ability to detect sarcasm! Because I’m layin’ it on pretty thick! Seriously, I’m just having fun.


Oh man! Sorry, sorry. I had to do it. That would be one sick Savage, I’ll give it that. But we are talking quite a sum of money that I doubt someone asking for recommendations with a gifted chassis is willing to dish out. Shoot! I certainly can’t spend like that! I don’t even have extra money for buying aftermarket triggers for my Firearms. So I taught myself to perform trigger jobs. And it’s worked out well.

You guys are a hoot. I'm toying with the "trued" action from Northland. I may spend more than I should on this project but I'll have fun doing it. Had a Savage 14 Classic I wish I could have back. At the end of the day this will just be a fun rifle. I have a couple of overly expensive long distance rifles that are probably going the way of the dinosaur because I just don't want to lug around them any farther than a bench rest. Unless it's a benchrest rifle - I usually run the triggers at a couple pounds anyway. How are the Timney's for Savage? Do you guys like McGowan barrels over Criterion or Shilen? I have scopes - as far as budget I will keep it under 1500 but I don't mind saving money for the next sink hole.

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Originally Posted by mchljrdn

You guys are a hoot. I'm toying with the "trued" action from Northland. I may spend more than I should on this project but I'll have fun doing it. Had a Savage 14 Classic I wish I could have back. At the end of the day this will just be a fun rifle. I have a couple of overly expensive long distance rifles that are probably going the way of the dinosaur because I just don't want to lug around them any farther than a bench rest. Unless it's a benchrest rifle - I usually run the triggers at a couple pounds anyway. How are the Timney's for Savage? Do you guys like McGowan barrels over Criterion or Shilen? I have scopes - as far as budget I will keep it under 1500 but I don't mind saving money for the next sink hole.

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We try, LOL!

I was just having a go. Robinhood knows his stuff! And I honestly do agree with what he said about a longer barrel. Like I said, I made a recommendation based on the parameters you set. (Already having the MDT LSS chassis) If you are looking for extended ranges, then absolutely, you will need a longer barrel. I have a 26” which is effective, but as I already said, I wish I had gone 27” or 28”. I would consider 26” about the minimum for long range. McGowan are considered a “premium” barrel. As I referenced in the list, I think most would agree Bartlein, Brux and McGowan are the 3 top tier barrels. But you pay for ‘em! And people need to understand the increase in accuracy/repeatability of these ultra high end barrels over Shilen, Criterion, etc. I can tell you without contestation, that neither myself, nor you, nor anyone on this forum has any chance whatsoever of seeing ANY discernible difference in accuracy between these barrels! Now that said, I would LOVE to rock a Bartlein! But considering they cost DOUBLE that of my Shilen.....no thanks! But if you don’t mind spending the money..GO FOR IT!

Timney triggers are great! Here’s the thing with triggers. No matter which you choose, you are using the STOCK SEAR! The trigger is only half of the equation. Now the aftermarket triggers are great! They use much lighter return springs, have take up & overtravel adjustment and are nicely polished on engagement surface. But you put the STOCK sear back in with your new $150 trigger! I take the STOCK Accutrigger, polish the engagement surface, install light return springs and add an overtravel stop. In addition, I also stone the engagement surface of the STOCK sear to a perfectly flat angle and also polish to mirror shine! It costs me about $3 and I would put my trigger quality against any.

But I digress. Your issue really, is either using the LSS chassis or not. Oh, and just to make sure..it’s not an LSS XL is it? That would change the long barrel issue.

It's not the LSS XL. I have a 26" hvy palma barrel on a surgeon action - just don't use it much any more. I have the LSS a budget around 1500 and I want to run a barrel between 19-21" I'm leaning towards a lt varmint or varmint - probably fluted. I have a 4-14 3i LRP I'll probably use on top (have a 6.5 - 20 gathering dust) Might use it in local matches where the longest shot is 600 yards but speed is a factor. I want to keep the weight around 10lbs. Butt 2 Action 2.4 LSS 1.7 - so I'll probably just get as heavy of a fluted barrel that keeps me on weight target.

Given the 600 yard max distance, I'd go with a shorter (22") barrel in a medium varmint contour or equivalent. You really don't need any more length (= weight) for adequate velocity at that range- and you need the mass of a medium-heavy contour for the heat generated in the course of target shooting. Shorter/fatter fits the bill here IMO.

CBI has excellent quality prefits. When I build for myself I use a Shilen Select Match blank, but CBI, Shilen (std grade) and McGowen are all good, mid-grade barrels of similar quality and you shouldn't have an issue with any of them being able to deliver 3/4 minute or better provided the rest of the system (and the shooter) are up to it. If you want a higher accuracy potential, any top-end blank (Benchmark, Brux, Kreiger )can be chambered as a prefits (or not). Given budget, going with one of the factory prefits will give excellent accuracy while still leaving enough coin for a decent optic.