Recommend gunsmith

Hello.. hoping someone could steer me in the right direction here.

i bought a used single shot 112 223rem. Had receiver coated, redid stock, trigger etc. got the gun all assembled and when I went to boresight, it was wayyyyyy off. Maxing our windage wouldn’t get it lined up. So I tried zee rings, still wouldn’t line up. Next I put a adjustable windage base on, and it finally lined up, but at that point I did not like that setup.
i kept looking and studying. Thinking the barrel must be bent. So for shit and giggles, I swapped barrels with an old 270 barrel I had, just to see what happens.
Same thing, wayyyyyy off. So now I’m thinking either the receiver is not threaded square, or the base mount holes are out of align. I can’t tell
So.. reckon what I should do, or who I could I could send it to, that wouldn’t keep it a year, lol ?
Or, would it be better to give up on it ?:o

Easiest, and first step if I were to check it would be to indicate the existing holes on the mill to see if they're parallel to the receiver centerline.

Checking to see if the receiver threads are concentric to the bolt raceway, and whether the receiver face is perpendicular is more involved.
Receiver face needs to be chucked up with a mandrel or receiver holder fixture to be indicated and skim cut if needed. Then, I clean up the threads with a receiver tap, and run a precision threaded mandrel into the receiver. When the shoulder of the mandrel is threaded up to the receiver face (lightly blued) it should show full, even contact. If not, gap checked with feeler gauges and if over a couple thousandths exists, the threads need to be recut.

Opinions differ from there. I have recut threads without cutting them oversize with excellent results. The threads can be a tiny bit "sloppy"- but what really matters are the mating surfaces of the receiver and barrel but being perfectly true and concentric- that's what positions/locates the barrel, not the threads.

Others will tell you that the receiver threads will need to be cut oversize, with a new custom (oversize thread) barrel to match.

Hopefully, it's just your mounting holes being tapped off-center. Easier " fix", but still not a simple fix. Holes that are "off", need to be plugged, the re-drilled/tapped in correct locations (and may as well go to #8 while you're at it).

Thanks for the reply . Reckon what the cost would be on a project like this?

I'd imagine Savage would make it right at no cost to you. Maybe call them?

A straight edge may tell you something as would rotating and swapping ends with the rings.






Also you can take a good look through the bolt opening with a flashlight to see if the action was twisted from a previous Savagesmiths ignorance.

I actually carried the gun to the range today, since I had a few others I have been piddling with and wanted to shoot.
The gun is a bug shooter, even with the alignment problem. Had to use adjustable windage base to get scope lined up, but at 100 yards, 5 shots that a dime would cover. That really makes me want to keep it, but would really rather it be correct

On a side note, if the barrels centerline is ‘off’ from the receiver wouldn’t that dictate that your windage and elevation would only be true for a certain distance? Especially so if compensating with the scope and not windage in the rings.

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Originally Posted by RustyShackle

On a side note, if the barrels centerline is ‘off’ from the receiver wouldn’t that dictate that your windage and elevation would only be true for a certain distance? Especially so if compensating with the scope and not windage in the rings.

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That’s what I’m thinking..especially at distance .

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Originally Posted by jrgreene1968

That’s what I’m thinking..especially at distance .

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This would need to be really extreme to have a noticeable affect. Think, a side-mounted scope where this would def be true. The line of sight of the scope is substantially offset- as in inches, not potentially thousandths of an inch. In the former case it's obvious that the lines of sight through the scope and bore would only cross at the "zero" range, and then diverge again. Unless there's some severe defect in the barrel (and you'd see it, where the nut shoulders up to the receiver) it wouldn't be enough to manifest the severe symptoms you're stating.

You could use a precision ground, ring-lapping tool to "roughly" check the alignment of the rings (non-alignable rings) to see if anything really jumps out as to front/rear alignment.