SAVAGE BOLT AND SIZING Brass

I have watched a few videos in my search to reload rifle cartridges better. I have not been at it long. I am using a Redding body die to bump the shoulder back and a Lee collet die to size the neck. I realize there are other ways to do this as well as just full size every time. However, this is what I want to try.
So, after sizing the brass and to check that the brass chambers easily I have removed my firing pin. The bolt doesn't seem to move any other way than what it feels to close the bolt with the firing pin in. Am I supposed to remove the ejector as well? I understand that the bolt should almost fall into place, but it does not. Any advice?

Hmm... I don't understand what you are trying to do or why. The brass should chamber easily after resizing the neck, whether you bump the shoulder or not (unless you've reloaded the case a quite a few times without bumping the shoulder back). Regardless, there's no need to remove the firing pin or the ejector just to check how well it chambers. Questioning how well the bolt functions without the firing pin is kinda goofy to me, too, because there will be no tension on the entire bolt assembly. THere's just a bunch of semi loose parts slapped together... I guess the bolt will fit into the action and it could be slid forward and back and the handle could be lowered and raised again, but it won't feel right. it's just gonna slop around without purpose.

Maybe I am missing something, and someone else can chime in.

I think you are over thinking this. You describe a method used by some to check chamber headspace. When checking the "case headspace" you could use a different tool. If it closes easily with a partially assembled bolt, you have proven one thing. The base to shoulder dimension is not too long. How do you know if you have oversized the case without measuring it after firing the round? in other words you may have over-sized it and made that dimension too short. Ideally you might want it .002-.003 shorter than the chamber..010 would be something that might lead to case head separation after several firings.

Bolt close should not be stiff or loose. It should be snug. You need a bump gauge to measure the shoulder set back with a set calipers.

Headspace example measured with a bump gauge on my 6.5x47:

Go gauge measures 1.425
No go gauge measure 1.428

Now concerning resizing my brass:
Fired brass measures 1.429
I bump the shoulder to 1.427

.002 bump ensure that I am not over working the brass and it still has room to expand properly. It also leaves just enough room in case any debris were to get in my chamber during a match or range trip.

So as stated by RH above you need to get the right tools or ensure you know what the proper feel is on bolt close for your rifle. Not loose or stiff, but snug!

I use a forester FL, bump and bushing Die.


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I am using a headspace gauge and bumped the once fired brass back .002. From a few videos I saw the recommendation was to remove the working parts of the bolt to remove all tension from the rim. Now that wasn’t on a Savage and that is probably way. Not an uncommon way of doing things as I understand, one of many ways. However I think I am good to go. Thais brass is once fired and from this rifle. In the future I will only be using Lapua as I got a good deal on it. Thank you all for the reply.

That video was not showing how to find the lands with your bullet was it?

The video I think you're referring to is using a very high quality, custom action with a one piece bolt, nothing like the bolt design Savage uses. Custom actions are designed and manufactured to reduce bolt lift, and close to the smallest effort possible, so as to not upset aim point while shooting competition. About as far from factory production design specs as possible, IMOP.

I tried that method, even going so far as without a case in the action and bolt stripped of everything but body, handle & nut and stripped head, still no smooth bolt fall. I suspect that if that method can be used in a Savage, the action and bolt must be timed and trued properly first by a competent gunsmith.

I don't bother with stripping the bolt to chamber shot brass, I simply chamber it and feel for any stiffness in bolt drop. Unless you are partially neck sizing with a bushing in order to help center the cartridge and require .002 headspace to facilitate that, you're spinning your wheels by stripping the bolt, IMOP.

I use a Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge and measure a fired case and set the die for .001 to .002 shoulder bump.

Any once fired case will have brass spring back and be a smidgen smaller than actual chamber headspace. The spring back amount will depend on annealing and work hardening of the brass.

And remember to keep grease on the rear of the bolt lugs to reduce any chance of galling the lugs from snug fitting cartridges.

With any cartridge case gauge that measures base to shoulder location it would be more accurate than "feel" when closing the bolt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sc1911cwp

I have watched a few videos in my search to reload rifle cartridges better. I have not been at it long. I am using a Redding body die to bump the shoulder back and a Lee collet die to size the neck. I realize there are other ways to do this as well as just full size every time. However, this is what I want to try.
So, after sizing the brass and to check that the brass chambers easily I have removed my firing pin. The bolt doesn't seem to move any other way than what it feels to close the bolt with the firing pin in. Am I supposed to remove the ejector as well? I understand that the bolt should almost fall into place, but it does not. Any advice?

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try the bolt close test without a round in the chamber. how can it possibly close easier with a loaded round in the chamber?

If you do not want to buy a Hornady cartridge case headspace gauge there are other methods but not as simple as using the Hornady gauge.

Leave your bolt alone and chamber the sized case by feel to a point you think is right.

Now measure the case from case mouth to the base and write the measurement down.

https://i.imgur.com/SgwqgaU.jpg

Now using a fired spent primer start the primer into the primer pocket just using your fingers.

https://i.imgur.com/oNIvIiX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zQxlYGp.jpg

Now slowly chamber the case closing the bolt and letting the bolt face seat the primer and then remove the case.

Now measure the case again from the case mouth to the base of the primer and write it down.

Now subtract the first case measurement from the second and this will be the cases head clearance.

Your head clearance is equivalent to the amount of shoulder bump and on a bolt action should be .001 to .002.

Repeat the process above several times to get a average reading for setting up your die.

If you like to cheat like me I use Redding competition shell holders to control the amount of shoulder bump and never touch the die in the press.

Congratulations, you now know how to make the cheap bastards headspace gauge. And on a rimmed cartridge if you add the rim thickness to the above measurement you will have your actual chamber headspace.

https://i.imgur.com/HK76WCp.jpg

Headspace is also the distance between your ears and how you use this space. :smug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sc1911cwp

I have watched a few videos in my search to reload rifle cartridges better. I have not been at it long. I am using a Redding body die to bump the shoulder back and a Lee collet die to size the neck. I realize there are other ways to do this as well as just full size every time. However, this is what I want to try.
So, after sizing the brass and to check that the brass chambers easily I have removed my firing pin. The bolt doesn't seem to move any other way than what it feels to close the bolt with the firing pin in. Am I supposed to remove the ejector as well? I understand that the bolt should almost fall into place, but it does not. Any advice?

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if all you are.doing at this point is setting your body die up for your shoulder bump here is my recommendations. first you must have calipers and the hornady headspace gauges. they are cheap and absolutely necessary.

i recommend you just use you neck sizing die for the first few firings. usually takes at least 3 firings for cases.to fully fireform. many make the mistake of setting their die up at the first firing.

when that shoulder dimension stabilizes then by trial you can adjust your body die for a 1 to 2 thousandths bump. just realize once it starts to bump the shoulder just a tiny turn of the die will move the.shoulder a bunch. i use lock rings on my dies. once you get it set.correctly lock it down and don't mess with it again. if you start getting tight chambering it is time to anneal.