Savage Model 110 Long Range Build

I am interested in building my first true long range rifle. Goals of reaching 1000+ yds.
I currently have a Savage Model 110. Gun is completely Factory, no bull barrel and cheap stock.
I am wanting to rebuild this to make it as friendly on the gun range as possible, I am still young and can handle a heavier recoil, but would prefer to not have to if at all possible.
Questions are.
What caliber should I go with? Along with what Barrel, brand? Length? Contour?
I am fairly set on purchasing a SWFA fixed power scope for a first focal plane variable is not in the budget at the moment.
I would ultimately like to go with a chassis set-up, however will go with a cheaper stock for now if need be.
Budget would obviously as low as possible, however about 800-1000. Before Optics and already have the action.
I also have no interest in a bench rifle setup, I want a high performance long range tactical weapon.
I think this is enough information to get started.
Any Help or suggestions would be great!

Thanks!

260 or 6.5 creed. 26" barrel or +\- 2". Mcree or XLR chassis. Shilen select match or criterion barrel in varmint contour

You will of course get all kinds of preferences from the group - there isn't a right way I suppose, but I like to think my opinions are better than most - and here they are. :wacko:

My smallest case for a 1K gun is the 6.5x284. I go up from there in bore diameter and case size, but then I used to shoot 50 BMG for my 1K+ gun, so the 6.5-284 seems like a mouse gun. I prefer the 6.5-284 to the Creedmoor because I can reach 3000 fps with a 140 grain bullet more easily with a shorter barrel. I don't really have any interest in a 6.5CM other than maybe in an AR-10 platform.

If I only had one rifle for shooting 1000 yards plus today, it would be a 338 Lapua or a 338 Edge or a 50 BMG, but I hear that the 50 is kind of difficult to build on a Savage action.

I have been pleased with ERShaw, X-Caliber and PacNor barrels.

On optics, the minimum I like to use at 1K yards is 32x. On a budget I would probably go with a used Leupold target scope, or a new Sightron 36x. Not a cheap scope but maybe a target for down the road, it is pretty hard to beat the Sightron 8-32x with one of their long range reticles or the 10-50x60. I have seen the 10-50's for under $900 on ebay before.

For a cheap stock, I got my first what I think is an Accustock ( full length aluminum bedding insert) on my 338 LRH. It seems to work fine. Sub 1/2 MOA with the 338 Lapua after freefloating the barrel.

The standard Accutrigger with a setscrew / light spring mod is pretty nice on two of my 1K guns. I prefer the SSS though, or the Rifle Basix Sav2.

You have a long action to build on so cartridge options are pretty open. You'll probably have the hardest time choosing, and get the most input on caliber and cartridge.

6.5mm (.264), 7mm (.284), and .30 calibers would all offer cartridge options that should get things done for you.

Keep in mind that you'll want to shoot "heavy for caliber" bullets to get best long range performance in whatever caliber you choose.

Are you a reloader, or do you plan to shoot factory ammunition?

If factory ammo how much are you willing to pay per box of 20?

As said you will get mountains of opinions.
What it comes down to at its basic form, is are you looking to learn marksmanship, or are you trying to buy ability?

If you search my posts, you can see I've shot to 1k and beyond with a factory sporter 25-06 with 87gr TNT'S; and a factory sporter 308 with a 3-9 scope.
The whole notion of "having" to have the ultimate: scope, velocity, BC, is all shyte. With higher BC and velocity it is easier, and takes less skill. Nothing wrong with that choice, but it isn't "needed"; ignore anyone who says otherwise.
The two rifles that I currently shoot to a mile with:
1) Painless. A 10FP in 308, currently sits in a Choate ultimate Sniper stock, Weaver #800363 and 175 SMK's launched at 2550 fps.
2) Marlin X7 with a $180 ER Shaw Creedmoor barrel. Primary Arms 4-14x FFP Mil-Mil. Factory plastic Weaver rail with enough aluminum foil under it to give me a 15 minute cant. Sitting in a Boyd's classic stock. 140gr CC's launched at 2650fps.

Im kind of an Internet junkie- lots of time to read and not as much to shoot. But I recently built my first true long range gun and think that my commentary on decisions might help a fellow upstart.

1. I'm with darkker- there's no set configuration or caliber that is magic. And Mr.
HBoxer confirmed my limited experience as well- Heavy for caliber bullets seem to be where it's at. My 6.5x 55 swede loves some 140 Amax or 136 scenar-L.

2. I really like a good solid stock for my long action build. I know you don't want a bench rest gun, but don't get so crazy about a chassis that you forget that sometimes the key to enjoyment of shooting is not getting your shoulder bruised after a box of 20 rounds. My Choate ultimate sniper takes care of that.

3. Everyone will tell you this, but for a budget build you can still get a really nice barrel from Jim at NSS for $300-$350. Decent barrel and a used accutrigger action on a solid Choate stock will run you $875-$900. You might spring for a new barrel nut and recoil lug from Jim as well.

4. Decide right now if you will reload. I picked the 6.5 X 55 because the back story was cool and it was rumored to have a wide range of loading options. But factory ammo is hard to come by even at cabelas or other sporting chains. If you don't want to reload, really ask around about which factory loadings are consistent enough to take you to 1000 yards.

Best of luck in your build. I had a blast on mine. Very rewarding experience.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hafejd30

260 or 6.5 creed. 26" barrel or +\- 2". Mcree or XLR chassis. Shilen select match or criterion barrel in varmint contour

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Missed the long action, you could go 260 etc but better off to take advantage of the longer cartridges

You can build either, long or short rounds in a long action. I have a7mm08 in a 110 action. Look up MDT Chassis, they are about half price of other chassis on the market. I have a LSS version.
http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd0dtslfe.jpg

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Originally Posted by mousemotors

You can build either, long or short rounds in a long action. I have a7mm08 in a 110 action. Look up MDT Chassis, they are about half price of other chassis on the market. I have a LSS version.
http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd0dtslfe.jpg

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Beautiful rifle.... I see your LSS and raise you the XL ;)
http://i.imgur.com/4V52veJ.jpg
the chassis are great but if you're LA is blind mag there are many cheaper aluminum bedded stocks out there for $250ish.

You have lots of options, I'd suggest the 6.5/260 as well. 1K is no problem, and you can easily go to 1400 with that round. Lots of PRS guys have moved to 6mm so that works too. I have a 6.5 CM and it is nice not to worry about recoil when shooting 80-100 rounds in a day. I have a couple Mcree Chassis, they're heavier than the MDT but I'm bought all mine used for less than $500, including two folders. :) I can make 1K with my .223 so I don't see the need for a larger caliber unless you want to hunt with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Russmerle

Beautiful rifle.... I see your LSS and raise you the XL ;)
http://i.imgur.com/4V52veJ.jpg
the chassis are great but if you're LA is blind mag there are many cheaper aluminum bedded stocks out there for $250ish.

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Ok, I will call with a TAC 21, FYI you have a nice one there too.
http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/q...psji63ylkp.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mousemotors

Ok, I will call with a TAC 21, FYI you have a nice one there too.
http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/q...psji63ylkp.jpg

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Thinking to get one of the TAC 21's

I really like them

I would say the big key is what you are going to be feeding it. If you reload, then you can go any direction you want. If you are buying factory ammo, then you should figure what what caliber you want, then start looking at the ammo before you drop the cash on a barrel. You also need to look to see if you want to keep your bolt the same, or rebuild it and change heads. If you want to keep it budget, then what was the donor rifle for a cartridge? That can help you narrow your search more by the case head size.

More information will help us a bit more.

"Friendly on the gun range", does that mean only recoil? Or are you concerned about a brake being too loud/bothering others around you?

I will be typically only shooting on our properties, may go to a range to get out to 1000 unless we build a new set-up.
It is chambered in 30-06, The caliber has the capabilities of getting out to 1000, however i would like to do it with less recoil.
I will also be trying to attempt to shoot 1/2 moa groups at 100 yds. I have th ability to reload, however I would like to be able to buy factory ammo for it, if need be.
What is the cheapest I could possibly pick up a chassis set-up, and where to buy them

Quote:

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Originally Posted by albaugh6

It is chambered in 30-06, The caliber has the capabilities of getting out to 1000, however i would like to do it with less recoil.

What is the cheapest I could possibly pick up a chassis set-up, and where to buy them

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Your options are very limited with all of this. Let's start with the second part first. MDT tac sells the LSS and LSS-XL for the long action at 550. Over half your budget. Ooh, and it still needs an AR 15 buffer tube, $30, and a stock, which will cost what you want to pay. Say you just want it cheap, the a2 stock kit will get you going for $65-70, which comes with a buffer tube and stock. Then, you have to get the magazine, since chassis require a magazine. Best place is MDT tac, and its another $70.

So before you do anything with the rifle, just getting a usable chassis system is looking like $690 before shipping.

That leaves you very little cash to do anything else. You may want to look into a more classic style stock. I have just a pillar bedded hogue overmold on my Stevens build, and with very little work, I'm shooting 338-06 at around 2-2.5" at 300 yards.

That being said, less recoil then a 30-06? 1k distance? If you want to keep the bolt simple, then I would say just go with the 6.5 Creedmore. Very hot right now, factory ammo, and on the ammo boxes it gives you the load information so you can reload and match the ballistics of your factory ammo.

Hopefully that wasn't too much, to fast for you. I just know the cost of the MDT system, LSS-XL and mag cost 638.98 shipped to my front door, ordered last week. And I already had the PRS buttstock kicking around. If you are recoil sensitive, start researching muzzle brakes, just understand that a good one will cost around another $100, and then you have to have your barrel cut for it.

Good luck, feel free to message me of you have any questions.

Shm

That's my intention
Putting my Savage 12 LRP in the TAC21 👍

The question I have is, if i could get a full chassis set up for 700 bucks, and barrel for 300, that would reach my budget. Would I be smart to get a boyds laminate stock, quality barrel, throw some optics on the rifle and start stretching out my range? I just want to know a caliber of which is not too expensive to shoot and at the same time can get out to the range I want. I want factory ammo to be available for I do not always have time to reload. Has anyone done a boyds laminate stock and re-barreled? What level of precision was achieved with this set-up??

Why don't you shoot the rifle as it is for the moment?
Save your money right now . . .
I a few months just give Randall a call and he modify / build you what you want

Barrel and chassis for 1000, but then what about your rings, scope base, do you plan on upgrading the trigger, all sorts of things you can do.

I went the LSS-XL chassis option. Here is what I'm looking at:

640 for the chassis and mag
305 x-caliber 300 WM barrel
90 for vias muzzle brake
65 for night force scope base
160 for rifle basix trigger
170 LaRue 35mm one piece rings
50 for oversized bolt handle
30 misc bolt parts
35 NSS barrel nut
250 SSS tuned action, lug and bolt fluting

thats 1800 for the rig, and I already had the PRS stock, will see how the brake works when I have everything done to it, before I look for a grind to fit recoil pad. I still don't even have the scope purchased yet.

Granted I'm going with the buy once mentality, but you should start low. Do you have any of the tools to put your rifle back together? Action wrench, nut wrench, headspace gauges?

I don't have the knowledge and neither the tools so that's why I have to go to a gunsmith. . . .

But I know a good one who I will visit . . . once my delicious is made of what round, action, barrel, stock, etc is made

Quote:

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Originally Posted by albaugh6

It is chambered in 30-06, The caliber has the capabilities of getting out to 1000, however i would like to do it with less recoil.
I will also be trying to attempt to shoot 1/2 moa groups at 100 yds. I have th ability to reload, however I would like to be able to buy factory ammo for it, if need be.

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First choice for me would be the .243 Win.

Here's why:
- It's going to be a super light hitter compared to the 30-06 on the recoil front. 12lbs gun slinging 100 or 105gr bullets at just over 3100 fps (advertised) has roughly 5.75lbs free recoil. Same gun in 30-06 shooting 180's at 2800 is roughly 13.5lbs.
- Factory loads are common just about anywhere you might shop
- Huge variety of factory loads so you can get stuff for plinking, target shooting, long range, and even hunting varmints to deer sized game
- If/when you reload there is a ton of data out there for it and lots of bullets, brass, and powders that work really well
- Changes to your gun are minimal as you can use the same mag and bolt head. Just swap the barrel.
- Proven accurate without requiring a lot of effort usually

Second choice would be .308.

Here's why:
- it has all the benefits of the .243, but is going to throw off more recoil for a long range load (180's at 2600fps is 11 lbs free recoil)
- mil-surplus is an option for ammo as well as components if reloading

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thatguyshm

Your options are very limited with all of this. Let's start with the second part first. MDT tac sells the LSS and LSS-XL for the long action at 550. Over half your budget. Ooh, and it still needs an AR 15 buffer tube, $30, and a stock, which will cost what you want to pay. Say you just want it cheap, the a2 stock kit will get you going for $65-70, which comes with a buffer tube and stock. Then, you have to get the magazine, since chassis require a magazine. Best place is MDT tac, and its another $70.

So before you do anything with the rifle, just getting a usable chassis system is looking like $690 before shipping.

That leaves you very little cash to do anything else. You may want to look into a more classic style stock. I have just a pillar bedded hogue overmold on my Stevens build, and with very little work, I'm shooting 338-06 at around 2-2.5" at 300 yards.

That being said, less recoil then a 30-06? 1k distance? If you want to keep the bolt simple, then I would say just go with the 6.5 Creedmore. Very hot right now, factory ammo, and on the ammo boxes it gives you the load information so you can reload and match the ballistics of your factory ammo.

Hopefully that wasn't too much, to fast for you. I just know the cost of the MDT system, LSS-XL and mag cost 638.98 shipped to my front door, ordered last week. And I already had the PRS buttstock kicking around. If you are recoil sensitive, start researching muzzle brakes, just understand that a good one will cost around another $100, and then you have to have your barrel cut for it.

Good luck, feel free to message me of you have any questions.

Shm

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Yep... The MDT was expensive and you're right on the money. The mag from MDT gave me problems so I went with an actual AICS mag to rule out the chassis. The MDT mag was weaker in width and fully loaded would hardly insert. The mag release catch on the mag was slightly off causing issues with feeding. The AICS mag solved all those issues.

Going with a more traditional stock is a better more affordable option that will still get you that accurate 1k+ rig.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mousemotors

Ok, I will call with a TAC 21, FYI you have a nice one there too.
http://i455.photobucket.com/albums/q...psji63ylkp.jpg

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And with the skeleton stock... This thread has officially turned into MDTSavage porn

I would wait on that stock at all costs, just as others have suggested it will eat your budget. If you do need a new stock, I have heard the Choate Stocks are respectable and fairly heavy (think less recoil) for ~$200.

That will leave you with enough to pick up the barrel, barrel nut, lug, bolt head, etc. etc.

I believe your idea to go with the SWFA fixed power scope is a great choice, as I have heard nothing but good from the people that own them and they have a very attractive price point.