skim bedding aluminum bedding block

Who has skim bedded a stock with an aluminum bedding block? My remington 700 currently does not shoot to well...lucky to get 1.2MOA. I have never bedded any stocks before so with this I was going to bed the recoil lug and try skim bedding the aluminum block where the action screws come up. I'm planning to use devcon. From what I have read I should scuff up the aluminum. Degrease/remove all oil from bedding block and recoil lug area. Kiwi polish the entire action and barrel so things don't get stuck. I'm planning on using headless action screws with tire tubing to hold action in place. Use plenty of devcon especially in lug area. For the parts that are getting skim bedded...do you simply put some paste down and then squeeze action until it stops...meaning parts of the action will contact the aluminum block as it did before but now the devcon will fill the spaces that did not touch the action? I understand these spaces can be quite thin in spots. Does this eventually lead to cracking? I do not have the tools to grind out aluminum and even if I did I am nervous about doing a bedding job like that which is why I'm trying this first. If it still doesn't shoot I will grind it done and bed it like normal.

Just askin here, but since when is 1/2moa from a Rem700 considered a "non shooter" ? ?

If you do bed to the block, only cleaning is necessary, you don't have to grind.

Many people who have done this have seen no improvement.

Good Luck :-))

I gouge out channels in the front of the recoil block, and all along the aluminum bedding block under the front of the action, with a Dremel tool. Do not gouge out right around the front action screw hole, since that will establish the proper elevation and angle of the action in the stock. I also putty in front of the recoil lug, since I am going to put bedding gel under the first 2" of the barrel. I don't do anything to the rear action screw on a Savage until I see how it shoots, but I do float the rear of the action, so the tang doesn't touch the stock. Don't do what I do, unless you get some other opinions to agree, cause I don't want to be to blame if it's no good. It's just the way I do it. Mine have shot 0.27-0.37" 5-shot groups doing that. However, the ones I have done did not shoot anywhere near that good until they were bedded.

I recently did my Rem700 SPS tactical in 308. I put it in a B&C A2 Medalist, and skim bedded with Devcon. For surface prep, I scuffed the block with 80 grit sandpaper (carefully) to give it some bite, and then cleaned with alcohol. Prepped the action with Johnsons Paste Wax for a release agent, and held it in place with the action screws (also prepped with paste wax) torqued just past finger tight.

Very happy with the results (gun was around 1 MOA originally, now well under 1/2 MOA with hand loads on a factory barrel.)

Take your time with the prep work, as tedious as it may seem. You'll get professional results.

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

Just askin here, but since when is 1/2moa from a Rem700 considered a "non shooter" ? ?

If you do bed to the block, only cleaning is necessary, you don't have to grind.

Many people who have done this have seen no improvement.

Good Luck :-))

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I didn't say 1/2 moa I said 1.2 moa. These are with handloads And to me that's not that great. I suspect it is the stock because the groups typically are slightly smaller... around .5-.75 MOAwith fliers opening them up to greater than 1 MOA but it could be the ultrathin barrel.

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Originally Posted by MechEng

I recently did my Rem700 SPS tactical in 308. I put it in a B&C A2 Medalist, and skim bedded with Devcon. For surface prep, I scuffed the block with 80 grit sandpaper (carefully) to give it some bite, and then cleaned with alcohol. Prepped the action with Johnsons Paste Wax for a release agent, and held it in place with the action screws (also prepped with paste wax) torqued just past finger tight.

Very happy with the results (gun was around 1 MOA originally, now well under 1/2 MOA with hand loads on a factory barrel.)

Take your time with the prep work, as tedious as it may seem. You'll get professional results.

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Did you bed all the way down the action including the sides or just the recoil lug, and action screw areas?

Oh....1.2MOA....duh....My bad, the old eyes should have read closer :-((

I have some hunting rifles that shoot very tight 3 or 4 shoot groups, and the 4th or 5th opens it up to an inch or more. But since they are primarily big game hunting rifles, I don't fret about it. And I too believe that comes from a "skinny" barrel heating up?

Good Luck/Good Shooting.........Jim

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

Oh....1.2MOA....duh....My bad, the old eyes should have read closer :-((

I have some hunting rifles that shoot very tight 3 or 4 shoot groups, and the 4th or 5th opens it up to an inch or more. But since they are primarily big game hunting rifles, I don't fret about it. And I too believe that comes from a "skinny" barrel heating up?

Good Luck/Good Shooting.........Jim

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Haha no problem! Yeah I would have thought it might be heat but sometimes it's the 2nd or 3rd shot sometimes it's the 5th and I always allow time for cooling. I figure bedding it can't hurt. If it doesn't work I may seriously consider rebarrel it.

If you re-barrel, will you go with a "Remage" set up, as sold by NSS ?

Thanks......Jim

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

If you re-barrel, will you go with a "Remage" set up, as sold by NSS ?

Thanks......Jim

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Not sure. I love the quick and easy savage barrel swaps but having to notch my remington action is giving me some doubts about the remage system. This would basically destroy the value of the action should I ever want to sell it.

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Originally Posted by Bigeclipse

Did you bed all the way down the action including the sides or just the recoil lug, and action screw areas?

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I bedded the whole receiver (from the rear tang) up to about 1/4" past the chamber. Went up the sides flush to the top of the stock. Very snug fit, and without residual stresses.

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Originally Posted by Bigeclipse

Not sure. I love the quick and easy savage barrel swaps but having to notch my remington action is giving me some doubts about the remage system. This would basically destroy the value of the action should I ever want to sell it.

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NO it will not destroy the value of your rem action...rem actions are actually cheaper than savage actions and pinning the lug..IMHO..would add value to the 700 action as there are a LOT MORE do it your selfers out there then send it into in to head spacers.

now as far as bedding an alum block...ive done a few as i can guarantee you the blocks are FAR from perfect(or what they say they are)heres a few pics of my bell carlson A-5 i bedded by rasing the action .070 off the alum block...and if your riffle is used as a target riffle DO NOT bed past the lug as it will cause you problems i dont care what ppl say...once the barrel heats up it WILL change your POI if you bed past the lug...in a hunting riffle bed the first 2"...in a target riffle just to the back of the lug.

i took almost a 1/4" out of the recoil lug area here to get a solid bedding...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo2-6.jpg

i know your not bedding a single shot but you can see i drilled the alum block to hold the bedding...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo3-3.jpg

finished bedding...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo2-7.jpg

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Originally Posted by LongRange

NO it will not destroy the value of your rem action...rem actions are actually cheaper than savage actions and pinning the lug..IMHO..would add value to the 700 action as there are a LOT MORE do it your selfers out there then send it into in to head spacers.

now as far as bedding an alum block...ive done a few as i can guarantee you the blocks are FAR from perfect(or what they say they are)heres a few pics of my bell carlson A-5 i bedded by rasing the action .070 off the alum block...and if your riffle is used as a target riffle DO NOT bed past the lug as it will cause you problems i dont care what ppl say...once the barrel heats up it WILL change your POI if you bed past the lug...in a hunting riffle bed the first 2"...in a target riffle just to the back of the lug.

i took almost a 1/4" out of the recoil lug area here to get a solid bedding...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo2-6.jpg

i know your not bedding a single shot but you can see i drilled the alum block to hold the bedding...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo3-3.jpg

finished bedding...
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo2-7.jpg

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I disagree about the Remington statement. You can get 500 plus for a used remington 700 especially for someone looking to build a custom long range action with a gunssmith. People who buy used Remingtons buy them to either hunt with as is or to build a expensive rifle...Neither of which would want a notch ground in their action. Only people like you me and other remage users would know the value of it. Just my opinion of course.

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Originally Posted by Bigeclipse

I disagree about the Remington statement. You can get 500 plus for a used remington 700 especially for someone looking to build a custom long range action with a gunssmith. People who buy used Remingtons buy them to either hunt with as is or to build a expensive rifle...Neither of which would want a notch ground in their action. Only people like you me and other remage users would know the value of it. Just my opinion of course.

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Yes that is very true...i was looking at it as more of a do it your selfer...but personally i would not pay $500 plus for a used remmy action unless it had all the work done to it...and not because they are not worth it but because you can buy a brand new remmy action from bruno shooter supply for $499. my next build is going to be on a remmy action or shilen action and ill most likely go with the shilen as its threaded for savage barrels with a floating bolt head and uses the 700 foot print which is much easier to get high end stocks for...ive just about got the money saved up for the action now but still undesided.

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Originally Posted by LongRange

Yes that is very true...i was looking at it as more of a do it your selfer...but personally i would not pay $500 plus for a used remmy action unless it had all the work done to it...and not because they are not worth it but because you can buy a brand new remmy action from bruno shooter supply for $499. my next build is going to be on a remmy action or shilen action and ill most likely go with the shilen as its threaded for savage barrels with a floating bolt head and uses the 700 foot print which is much easier to get high end stocks for...ive just about got the money saved up for the action now but still undesided.

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Interesting about the shilen action. I will have to look into those! What do they cost about?

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Originally Posted by Bigeclipse

Interesting about the shilen action. I will have to look into those! What do they cost about?

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$1150...not cheap but worth every penney as you can get most of your money back if you ever sell it.