Printable View
I just purchased a Weaver #48347 base for my Axis .223 and I would like to know how much I need to torque the screws when mounting it. I don't have a torque wrench at the moment, but the neighbor does, which he is going to let me borrow. I know I could probably just tighten them down snuggly, but I'd rather do it the proper way. Thanks.
25 inch lbs
Thank you. I had read 15, but I wasn't sure. I also read that if you don't have a torque wrench available, inserting the long end of the Allen wrench into the screw and holding onto the short end, if you turn it as hard as your thumb and finger can hold onto the short end, that would be about right. I think the whole idea with that was just not to over tighten and either ream out the head or strip the screws, which would be VERY bad. Thanks again for the help.Quote:
Originally Posted by homefrontsniper
Also, have you ever used anything like this: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firear.../dp/B0012AXR4S ? Thanks.
The manufacturer will give you that info.
Very true, but I figured I would ask on here. You never know...someone may have just done this and they have the info. I know I could call them and ask, but I did this first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bike Effects
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabe1972
Wheeler will last you a lifetime!
I do it all wrong... everything is torqued to 39 in/lb... nothing comes loose unless you want it to...
You aren't worried about stripping the head or the threads? At least one thing is for sure...it's definitely not going to move.Quote:
Originally Posted by Digduggy
That's good to know. It's got good ratings. I was thinking about making that my next purchase. I could use it for other things, too, not just firearms.Quote:
Originally Posted by homefrontsniper
Nope... All Leupold Torx bits. Use FAT wrench on and off, just start with gradual torque to get them loose, don't go full retard on them...
Torx is great. Nearly impossible to strip the head and I wish that the scope base screws were Torx. I could always take one of the screws that came with the new base (they were standard flathead screwdriver so I didn't use them and reused the screws from the gun) to a hardware store and see if I could find a screw just like it with the Torx head. I know it would be nearly impossible to find one with the same threads, the same tapered neck and the correct length, although the length I can fix. Allen screw heads are fairly easy to strip, especially small ones like these. I see they sell replacement screws on the site for $2 per screw, and I was thinking about getting four just for backup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Digduggy
I had to look up what an FAT wrench was, not knowing it was the thing that I asked about and added the link to. LOL.
Just make sure you use some Locktite on them, whatever you torque them to.
Thanks, skipjack. I purchased some blue loctite when I bought the base, but I have yet to use it. I don't have a torque wrench yet, and once I get one I don't want to have to clean the screws off to reapply the loctite. That would be a pain. For now I just have them snug, sans loctite. The neighbor misunderstood and only had a torque wrench in foot pounds, though it was nice and small. I think 15 foot pounds would have caused a problem. LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by skipjack
Speaking of the loctite, though...the brand I got was Permatex, which I am familiar with, as I used a ton of Permatex products when I was a heating and a/c tech. The loctite is VERY runny. I didn't think it was supposed to be this runny. I did shake it, for quite some time. I know it dries, it's just I didn't expect this.
Do I just use a tiny bit on each screw? I don't want to use too much and have it end up underneath the base because it oozed out of the top of the screw hole as I was tightening it. That could throw the perfect alignment of the base off. Not windage, but elevation, being that if it was underneath it could keep the base from making complete contact, all the way along. I know from experience with using pipe dope that too much will cause it to build up at the thread entrance, and, in this case, spread out underneath the base. I've read that some people actually put it under their bases on purpose, for a variety of reasons. That just seems VERY counterintuitive. I could be wrong, though. I'm learning new things about rifles every day.
I first remove the bolt and then always use a Q-tip first to clean the holes to eliminate any oil, then I put the front base on and install both screws until they bottom, but I don't put the final torque on at this time. I reinsert the bolt and make sure the screws aren't too long (I've had that one before). If all is good, I remove both screws and then shake the permatex tube and just put a drop on the first few threads, it is quite runny. Then I start the screw and do the same with the second screw on the same base, from there I screw either one in until it starts to snug and do the other one and continue then I snug up them. I don't have a Wheeler although I have used one (just make sure you back it off to zero when you're finished). What has worked for me is once the screws are snug I basically just reposition my grip and then slowly curl my fingers to apply torque. This allows me to control the amount of force without reefing on it. I seen some screws that have been put on by some who think that if really tight is good then obscenely tight is better (realize that 25 inch pounds is basically 1 1/2 ft lbs). These screws don't need that kind of treatment and don't need it either. The locktite works by filling in the microscopic gaps in the threaded portion and this action removes the majority of the air which causes the liquid to react and harden up. Once this is accomplished in essence the screws and the receiver almost become one unit and loosening is not an issue. One thing to bear in mind is that due to friction, the amount of load placed on a screw will be different if any liquid (or other lubricant is present) as opposed to dry surfaces. I know this is a long explanation but I wanted to be clear on my reasons for doing what I do and why. I hope this helps.
Tb
Typically somewhere close to 20 inch/pounds of torque should be good for bases.
I would not use anything stronger than purple threadlocker on scope base mounting screws.
Read this for more information: http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...nces-Resources.