I just received my Choate Tactical Stock for my Model 10 FCP-K yesterday.
It took about 3 minutes to mount but I have not torqued down the bolts yet.
Should I use lock tight on them?
Thanks
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I just received my Choate Tactical Stock for my Model 10 FCP-K yesterday.
It took about 3 minutes to mount but I have not torqued down the bolts yet.
Should I use lock tight on them?
Thanks
NO
What he said!
uj
Not that I am any expert or anything like that, but I would love to know why he shouldn't use blue Loctite on the action bolts?
I put blue Locitite on almost every fastener, base screws (and between base and action sometimes :o), ring screws, action screws, trigger adjustment screws, ...
Not the barrel nut, I put anti-seize on that ...
Unless you plan on putting it together and "never" plan on making any changes, locktite everything!
But it's the fact that we're talking about a Savage, and you know sooner or later you're going to want to try something a little different.
After about 10 different barrel, scope mounts as well as a few different stock changes, I've never had anything come loose.
The first time you twist off a scope mounting screw in the action, then go through the trouble of trying to get it out, that would be the last time you "ever" used thread locker again. Use it if you want to. ;) JMHO, Mike.
I am not an expert by any stretch, but everything Ive ever read about it says not to do it for the exact reasons Nor Cal Mikie gave. According to most manufactures they say use a torque driver and set to specified torque values.
The only screws that need loctite are the scope bases and even then they should be torqued to 20 in/lbs.
But hey it is your gun do as you want.
Ok, there is a difference between red Locitite and blue Loctite. Red will almost strip your screw heads and blue only holds them tight.
I have never had a problem getting something blue loctited apart.
There is nothing worse than finding out the problem with your groups is because some screw is loose.
Blue loctite everything and don't look back. They will come loose, no problem!
There is no valid reason to loctite any screw on that rifle. If it comes loose, it wasn't tight enough to start with.
Straight from the Man that knows. ;)
Ok, but is there a valid reason not to Loctitie the action screws? Does it hurt anything?
If you locktite the action screws, it will be xxxxing near impossible to ever disassemble the rifle without destroying the stock. Other that than, no hay problemo!
It appears that you are intent, despite almost unanamous advice to the contrary, on using locktite. Go ahead! Have at it! It's your rifle.
uj
I hate to have to say this, but it seems a lot of people don't know the difference between red Loctite and blue Loctite.Quote:
If you locktite the action screws, it will be xxxxing near impossible to ever disassemble the rifle without destroying the stock.
Your statement above may be true about red Loctite, but it is totally wrong about blue Loctite. Blue Loctite is much easier to break free than red Loctite. Do some research.
I am not trying to tell people they have to use Loctite, what I am trying to say is that there is no downside to using blue Loctite.
There is only something to be gained by using it and that is that the screws stand a much better chance of staying tight.
If your plan is shoot your rifle a couple of times and then take it back apart again to mess with it, then yes, Loctite may not be for you.
RED LOCTITE:
BLUE LOCTITE:Quote:
OEM specified as 271
High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications
Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)
Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening
Strengthens slip and light press fits
Removable with heat and hand tools
Quote:
Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening
Ideal for nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm)
Prevents threads from rusting and leaking
Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly
Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius)
As Fred mention above, there is absolutely no reason to use Locktite if the screws are torqued to the proper tightness. It can do nothing but gum up the works (literally). Over the years I have often spent more shop time taking apart a firearm that someone has used Locktite on than I spent repairing the problem.
Yes, I know the difference between red and blue and the answer is the same. Locktite is not needed and can only exacerbate the problem.
uj
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwm
note the "ideal size" stops at quarter inch even for the blue.
the surface area of the screw will decrease proportionally to the circumference and diameter -
but the cross-section area and thus strength will decrease as the square of diameter.
thus strength will drop off faster than the holding power of the thread locker
Also, residual loctite left in the threads will affect fastener tension on future retorquing.
Where is the love for the green loctite? it's gooood stuff man ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hi-teck
Quote:
Originally Posted by wikipedia
I don't think that was "tongue in cheek" at all...Thats the method I use. ;D
the 600 series(green) of loctite is really a great product, however they are adamant in the application guides about being used for permanent applications only. torch,& or special tools required for removal. I first became acquainted with it when I worked for a Caterpillar dealership doing field line-bore& bearing replacement.
I've never found a down side to using the blue. I use it and remove it when I pull the action (clean the threads) and re-apply when I put it back together, torque it and I don't shoot it for 24 hours letting it cure. Same with rings and bases.
Red will require about 700 degrees to break the bond and can make life very miserable. (meaning don't use red).
Red??? Don't be a girl if your gonna do something silly like glue your action screws in use Black Max or 680!! . . . . really NO loctite is a nono in my book. . . .