Anybody have any expierence using a Kahntrol muzzle brake on a Axis .308?
I am looking at the KSMB585.
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Anybody have any expierence using a Kahntrol muzzle brake on a Axis .308?
I am looking at the KSMB585.
I bought one for mine and haven't looked back. There's hardly any kick on mine now. I say get it, it's an awesome upgrade.
Have you guys heard of anyone shooting there's off the end of their barrel
It has happened, but if you follow his instructions he has on his website, you should be ok. I followed them, I haven't had any issues. You just need to make sure you check/re-torque it every so often.
It has happened to me--but the reason was because they accidentally sent me the wrong one. Because it's a "clamshell" design it is critical that you get get exactly the right measurements on both ends on the brake since the barrel tapers slightly. My experience was that it was almost impossible to verify this once the screws are torqued--so I would doulble-check with the factory what your measurements should be at both ends before install. Mine was going onto a 300win mag; and even though it seemed to fit snugly and I loktited it down--on the 3rd shot the brake flew off the end and made it about 70 yds towards the target. It was not a bullet strike--the muzzle blast blew it off and also collapsed the halves together--despite the 6 screws holding it together.Quote:
Originally Posted by lotusboyrulz
All that said--they immediately made good and sent me a new brake which has never budged after a 100 rds or more. It performs better than any brake I've ever had on any other rifle--and a 300 win mag is a pretty punishing round. I don't care so much about recoil reduction--though I suppose it does some of that--but most importantly it eliminates muzzle rise--the rifle comes straight back to my shoulder after firing and enables the follow up quickly and easily--and that's all I want out of a brake. It's maybe the ugliest brake out there so don't be shocked when you see it--but who cares if it does it's jobb well : )
Quote:
Originally Posted by lotusboyrulz
i just recently did this with my Witt Machine bolt on muzzle brake a couple weeks ago and it landed about 25 yrd away and it was from muzzle blast from my .308
This is another one of those "buy once, cry once scenarios". You can't go wrong with a threaded barrel for a brake unless the Gunsmith screws up. A clamp on though may last through 1 shot to every shot you take, but at some point this is bound to happen unless shooting a small caliber.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2111 Marine
I've seen one guy bring a rifle with a clamp on brake since I've been shooting competitions for the last 6 months or so before being deployed and before the end of the match I looked over and noticed it wasn't there anymore.
As long as the exit holes are clear I see no harm at all in getting after-market bolt-ons--with the exception that many of them don't really do anything. For a stock non-threaded barrel which I'm eventually going to replace anyway--the clamp-on is a reasonable in-expensive investment until I get the barrel made the way I really want it.
I shot my.308 with this brake last week and put together the best strings I have ever shot with that rifle. Recoil was much less, but the SOUND was like a concussion wave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolf
Witt Machine received my brake last Monday and still awaiting a email or phone call on what the progress is !!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyGNR
before my brake blew off i was using Winchester super X 180 grain and the recoil felt was nothing !!!
Good luck with the Witt brake--I've had three of them and the best result was neutral--basically no effect--and in one case was even worse than the standard birdcage flash suppressor on an AR. My standard for a good brake is elimination or significant reduction of muzzle-lift while not affecting accuracy or even improving accuracy. Recoil reduction is nice--but I don't care about it if the bullets are flying all over the place.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2111 Marine
You'll learn to appreciate that shock wave--especially when the guy in the next shooting pit over from yours is one of those types that likes to rain brass on you while pretending to be some kind of full auto combat guy with his AR or 7.62 x 39 whatever. That's when I like to pull out my 300 win mag with Kantrol brake or my 44 mag super blackhawk hunter. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by TommyGNR
This is quite relevant to my interests...
I have a an Axis in 30.06 LH and while the kick isn't anything unreasonable; I do want to develop a proper shooting-form while firing "big-boy" (.308/7.62mm, 30.06, 300win mag, and higher...) rounds, without having to "un-break" myself from a flinch; preferably before one even develops in the first place...
However, that requires mitigating recoil: To that end, I bought and installed, a new and heavier Boyd's stock (their, er um... sorta... "Featherweight"* Thumbhole stock), with the mid-level recoil-pad option (the Pachmyar one). Despite the weight, I am rather happy with it.
The only thing I can do now is add a compensator/muzzle-break on the front end, which lead to two options:
1): Buy a new (preferably bull) barrel, which starts at $200 (at the Gunshack, but that requires patience... he does what he can...), but the price can ramp up quite a bit depending on what on what brand and option(s) I want (fluting, ect; however, barrel-threading still is an absolute MUST for this project), then I either hand my parts to a gunsmith for $150-300 of labor; or being a DIY-type-of-guy with some tools, I'd still have to buy (or craft... As an action vise can be made with as little as $20, or less, worth of hardware... presuming you have sufficient woodworking and/or machine-shop tools handy...) $90-$200 worth of gear (Barrel-nut wrench, Action-vice, precision caliper, rosin power, thread-protector, ect...), plus "go" and "no go" gauges (I am told, and while it isn't recommended, a "go" gauge with two layers of scotch-tape can act as a "no-go" gauge, in a pinch...) and hope the thing doesn't blow up in my face at the range because I accidentally left a screw out... then buy and install a $99(+) muzzlebreak (with a $15 washer-tuning kit). Turning a $289 gun into a $800+ mess...
2): Keep the stock barrel, and either pay a gunsmith either $200-250 to tap and thread the end of your barrel and tune your $99(+) muzzlebreak; or if you are a DIY-type-of-guy (I.E. a stubborn dumbass, like me) with some tools, buy a specialized $25 5/8"-24 Size tap, $15 5/8-24 specialized thread alignment tool Die Starter, $15 wrench, and $9 tapping fluid, $15 washer tuning kit... on top of a $185 muzzlebreak (...among other things, I'm glad I bought from Amazon, with their return-policy *sigh*). Likewise, turning a $289 gun into a $600+ chore...
Then I find out...
3): There is a tool does what I want and looks SEXY as-all-get-out**; that doesn't require the tools and techniques from -either- above options and it cost's -only- $149.95! SERIOUSLY?! SIGN ME UP!
In the end: I'm just interested in how diligent I have to be about fastener-torque and mitigating potential barrel-marring.
*It is, by NO means "Featherweight", as my rifle weighs almost weighs TWICE as much as it did (no scope); however I'm FINE with that. It's heavy, but it feels really nice and SUPER SOLID in any firing stance (In the woods, where every added ounce is fatiguing, your mileage may vary...).
** Bulky "soapbar"-type muzzlebreaks just say "sniper" and "deadly" to me; as ugly as they are, I truly love them...
I like it on my 300 win mag--almost makes it a pleasure to shoot lol. Just two caveats: make absolutely sure the fore and aft openings are EXACTLY the right diameter for your barrel (doesn't mean match it, you'll need a bit of room for getting it on and torquing down) and 2) check periodically that it hasn't come loose--especially if it's on a big boom stick. Mine (the properly sized one) hasn't budged on my 300 win mag yet and I love the improvement it makes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Theranthrope