Pre 1995 Savage 110 7mm

Its my old hunting rifle dad let me use when i was a kid, yea a kid. 13-15yrs old cant handle a synthetic stock 7 mag, it kicked my butt.
Time to go hunting again, only 7yrs later.
I put a limbsaver pad on it, added a little weight in the back, put a winchester bi-pod, used a centerpoint 4-16x40 mill dot scope (thank god it handled the recoil, 23 shots so far) and took it shooting.
i got about a 1 moa @ 100yds out of it, with a couple that i jerked and sent to left field.
The trigger and i can not seem to get along. the pull wight is too much and i cant mentally hold the rifle steady and tight and pull the heavy trigger without a quick pull which will kill the accuracy.
My question is, can i do the .040 wire trick and knock the pull weight a considerable/noticeable amount?
or should i look into a trigger/group; & which one?
mainly a hunting rifle, if i can get some 400 or so yd paper shots, i will have a little fun doing that.

The wire will help the trigger. Also if it is a 3 screw, it can be adjusted so it breaks very cleanly.

I would also suggest a newer stock. I had a 308 from that era that just kicked my butt. To me, laminates and aftermarket stocks feel much better and transmit the recoil better as well.

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Originally Posted by geargrinder

The wire will help the trigger. Also if it is a 3 screw, it can be adjusted so it breaks very cleanly.

I would also suggest a newer stock. I had a 308 from that era that just kicked my butt. To me, laminates and aftermarket stocks feel much better and transmit the recoil better as well.

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10lbs 4oz and limbsaver recoil pad have become my friend. My shoulder has not hurt at all, my head did hurt for a little bit, it makes a ton of pressure lol
the remy 870 may kick more now.

i guess i will try the wire trick out first. What type of wire is normally used?
yes, it has 4 alan screws, 2 for safety, 1 at sear, 1 for wire.

Yep, that's a 3-screw. Here's a thread on how to adjust it.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,19414.0.html

You can also send a PM to 243shooter here. If you send him a SASE he will send you some .040 spring wire for free.

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Originally Posted by geargrinder

Yep, that's a 3-screw. Here's a thread on how to adjust it.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,19414.0.html

You can also send a PM to 243shooter here. If you send him a SASE he will send you some .040 spring wire for free.

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whats an SASE?

Self addressed stamped envelope. I would polish the sear and try the three screw adjustment first. HOWEVER...this process can be dangerous if done incorrectly. Things like the gun going off on bolt closure is way uncool. BE CAREFUL or seek help.

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Originally Posted by kweeks10045

Self addressed stamped envelope. I would polish the sear and try the three screw adjustment first. HOWEVER...this process can be dangerous if done incorrectly. Things like the gun going off on bolt closure is way uncool. BE CAREFUL or seek help.

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Yes, a plain letter size envelope size is fine. He's been doing it for a while. An unbelievable gesture.

Try the screws and the wire first. Polishing the sear is not often done or needed after adjusting the trigger and replacing the wire.

Those two things are easy for a 1st timer and can easily be undone. Polishing is up a skill level or two.

Take your time and work slow. Be safe.

I wont need to polish mine, its well worn from use and not notchy/gritty feeling, just stiff.

It's not cheap, but get a muzzle brake, and a pair of ear muffs/plugs.....you will not shoot it to it's potential till you stop anticipating that wicked "thump" that happens when you jerk(and you will) the trigger...there are brakes out there now that will reduce recoil almost 60%, maybe more...there are guys here that can give more accurate %s ...but it will be worth it, when all the shots make one ragged hole.....rsbhunter

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Originally Posted by rsbhunter

It's not cheap, but get a muzzle brake, and a pair of ear muffs/plugs.....you will not shoot it to it's potential till you stop anticipating that wicked "thump" that happens when you jerk(and you will) the trigger...there are brakes out there now that will reduce recoil almost 60%, maybe more...there are guys here that can give more accurate %s ...but it will be worth it, when all the shots make one ragged hole.....rsbhunter

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i may consider it one day, but not yet. my dad has a a-bolt w/ the break in 7mm and i hate it b/c its so freakin loud.

Concerning the trigger, my 110 7mag has a stiff one without the spring even touching. I adjusted the tension so the spring was not touching and the pull is still around 4+lbs I would guess... I adjusted it back to where there was a little tension from the spring wire for safety, but I'm not happy with the trigger at all. Any thoughts (other than buy a new one, that's eventually the plan)?

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Originally Posted by Good

Concerning the trigger, my 110 7mag has a stiff one without the spring even touching. I adjusted the tension so the spring was not touching and the pull is still around 4+lbs I would guess... I adjusted it back to where there was a little tension from the spring wire for safety, but I'm not happy with the trigger at all. Any thoughts (other than buy a new one, that's eventually the plan)?

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Follow the link in my post above. It will show you how to properly adjust the trigger. You need to have tension.

I did, that's what I was trying to say... even when adjusted way out- without the spring tension- it's still like a 4 lbs pull. After discovering this, I then adjusted the spring back to tension... No worries, it shoots OK, just with a stiff pull. I'll just replace it. I have a Rem 700 in 30-06 with stock trigger, just lightened, that is under or at 3lbs and shoots great. The anticipation of the heavier recoil coupled with the light weight and heavy trigger make this Savage 7mag tougher to shoot accurately.

On a side note, the cheap Winchester ammo from Wal Mart has an ES of 140fps. :P I'm blaming that on my not so great groups. :D

Did you adjust the other screws? You make it sound like you only adjusted the screw for the spring.

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Originally Posted by geargrinder

Did you adjust the other screws? You make it sound like you only adjusted the screw for the spring.

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No sir, I did not. The "creep" is decent- about the same as my Rem. Since I didn't adjust the creep, I didn't need to adjust the safety. My only goal was to reduce the pull weight. ???

What about the sear adjustment screw? That is the one that has the biggest effect to the trigger pull.

You really need to do all of the adjustments in the link that was provided.

Ok, I'll do it right now and report my findings. I'll confess, I don't expect it to help, but I hope it does.

OK, I fail guys. Before, I was only interested in the pull weight. Now that I look at the trigger in detail, it appears I have a 2-screw trigger. It does not have the sear adjustment screw. Is there a procedure for adjusting this one? I searched but either didn't know what I was looking at ::) or I couldn't find it. Sorry for the confusion.

[img width=600 height=450]http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/157/triggeretc003.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/4670/triggeretc002.jpg[/img]

[img width=600 height=450]http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9844/triggeretc001.jpg[/img]

Is that the original trigger wire?

Yes, I picked it up used from a pawn shop on the cheap so as far as I know everything's stock.

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Originally Posted by Good

Yes, I picked it up used from a pawn shop on the cheap so as far as I know everything's stock.

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I'd bet your trigger pull would lighten up a fair bit if you replace it with 0.040" wire.

I think you're right, but I may just replace it with a SSS Competition trigger. I looked at the Jard, but the pull weight is not adjustable. If I ever build a target rifle, the Jard might be the way to go, but for hunting I think the SSS might be a better route... I would prefer it to be adjustable to around 3 lbs, but we'll see how the SSS does.

I want to thank 243shooter for sending me the trigger wire. it is much appreciated!
I measured the pull weight to the best of my abilities with a digital fish scale lol
6lb 1oz factory and about 4lb 8oz to 5lbs after the .040 wire.
I have a little bit more tension on the .040 wire since its not as strong and i feel as if the little bit more i loosen it will not make a big difference but could cause a problem with shock. As it sits it wont go off from being dropped.
The real test is when i take it to the range and see if i shoot any better or like the trigger feel more when i know recoil is coming.

Hey guys. Took the mag shooting 3 different times this year.
I have bedded and floated the action/barrel.
UTG 4-16x56 mill dot with adjustable objective
limbsaver recoil pad
.040 trigger wire

the gun and i are still not getting along.
the trigger is still too stiff for my liking.
i found myself still jerking the trigger and im not grouping worth a squat.

I need suggestions on what trigger and stock to replace the factory stuff. may look into a muzzle break, but the cost to thread it will likely prohibit it.
either that or i will just get a smaller caliber rifle.

just thought about this, this gun has quite a few boxes through it, whats the life span of the barrel?

Mr Good. follow the instuctions on thatfaq and you will get a decent pull wgt. What you have done so far is not the answer.

El Lobo

It could be your jerking the trigger because of the mags recoil. I had a Savage 110 in 7mm mag and the tupperware stock was beating me to death on the bench. I rebarreled it to 30-06 and the recoil was still hard to take. I couldn't afford to replace the stock so decided to work with it. I replaced the thin factory recoil pad with a softer sorbethane one (cutting the stock down the thickness of the pad). I filled the hollow butt area (after digging out the expandable foam) with sand. I filled the hollows in the forearm with sand and epoxied over that to hold it in place. While doing all that I also bedded the action. I can now comfortably shoot 20 rounds from the bench w/o flinching and the rifle is not to heavy to carry hunting. The added weight actually makes the rifle more stable shooting off hand.

I have adjusted several of these triggers and the sear screw made the most difference. I didn't change the wire or do any lapping and got a clean trigger with about 3-4 lb break. This page shows were the sear screw goes http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage/ . You can have a smith or machinist drill and tap the hole for screw or a member here may have an old one they aren't attached to very much for a reasonable price.

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Originally Posted by GaCop

It could be your jerking the trigger because of the mags recoil. I had a Savage 110 in 7mm mag and the tupperware stock was beating me to death on the bench. I rebarreled it to 30-06 and the recoil was still hard to take. I couldn't afford to replace the stock so decided to work with it. I replaced the thin factory recoil pad with a softer sorbethane one (cutting the stock down the thickness of the pad). I filled the hollow butt area (after digging out the expandable foam) with sand. I filled the hollows in the forearm with sand and epoxied over that to hold it in place. While doing all that I also bedded the action. I can now comfortably shoot 20 rounds from the bench w/o flinching and the rifle is not to heavy to carry hunting. The added weight actually makes the rifle more stable shooting off hand.

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i know its b/c of the recoil. i shot that gun since i was 13 and it started back then. it doesnt hurt that much now, but i figured out last night the stock is too short. i cut off 1 - 1 1/2in for the recoil pad and the scope has a very narrow eye relief window. with my eye in the right spot, the stock isnt against my shoulder tight enough, so im fighting to keep the gun steady and not hit my eye.
the gun weighs 10lb 10oz with bi-pod. if i cant get a beavertail stock or shock type butt and adj. cheek piece then im breaking out the bondo. i stuffed the stock with news paper but i guess sand will be in order.
im going to widen the stock if i can find a wider recoil pad and raise the comb. i have a lace up comb but it keeps moving.
my 22lr weighs 9lb 3oz from the bondo (plastic stock that was flimsy in the rear and i fixed that lol) and its light enough. i figure i can add 2lbs to the weight and see what happens.
the trigger may not need to be addressed if i can get the felt recoil down.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4209/avs|Make~~Model_1=Savage%20Arms__110/ttver=1/Product/ULTIMATE-VARMINT-STOCK
anyone used this stock; worth buying? i really would like a piston grip or thumb hole. i never did like the grip the regular stocks have.

I have the exact same rifle as yours and HAD the same problems. First I had a muzzle brake installed, then bought a Timney trigger and last found (constantly checked eBay and Gunbroker) a great used laminate stock to replace the factory plastic stock. Am really pleased with it now. Next I will pillar bed the stock and then I expect some great groups. Currently getting less than 1 MOA at 100 yds (a better shooter than I could probably shrink that even more). Good luck.

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Originally Posted by Escondido

I have the exact same rifle as yours and HAD the same problems. First I had a muzzle brake installed, then bought a Timney trigger and last found (constantly checked eBay and Gunbroker) a great used laminate stock to replace the factory plastic stock. Am really pleased with it now. Next I will pillar bed the stock and then I expect some great groups. Currently getting less than 1 MOA at 100 yds (a better shooter than I could probably shrink that even more). Good luck.

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the best i ever did with this gun is like 1.25 inch @ 100
the normal is minute of deer lol
i missed several deer when i first started shooting it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...ProductDescrip
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...ProductDescrip
just ordered.

Part of your accuracy problem could very well be the UTG scope your using too.

I had $70 centerpoint that held center after a box. Target turrets started to go right and up upon adj. Nearing end of travel

got the stock and trigger in 1.5 days. +1 for midway!
i personally love the feel of the stock. makes it feel like a real rifle vs a child's play toy.
best part is that it weighs basically the same. sans the slip on recoil pad its 1oz heavier using the same scale.
the barrel does look like a tiny pencil now, but i dont mind.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...0/DSC02822.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v9...0/DSC02823.jpg

the only modification to the stock i had to do was because of the Rifle basix SAV-1 trigger. it turned out to be longer and hit the stock. light dremeling fixed it right up.
btw, that was an easy replacement. easy to set up. i have it set with minimal creep / enough sear engagement that its safe. i dont know what the pull weight is yet; need to find a gauge.

once i shoot it sat, i may skim bed it. if it shoots good enough, i will leave it alone.
im gearing up for the deer trip in MO. in November.

forgot to add, the stock is 12.5in from trigger to butt pad. it comes with 3 spacers too add on. 1/4in, 1/2in and 3/4in. you will need longer screws to use all 3 spacers (they supply a couple lengths).