Ideas for gun build -

Hey everyone, looking for some ideas on re-chambering / building out a Savage rifle.


I've got a Savage 10T-SR in 22-250. I won this gun at a DU event. I've enjoyed shooting it at the range, because it shoots great, and ammo was cheap.
Now ammo isn't cheap, so I was thinking about rebarreling / repurposing this gun.

I've already got other bolt rifles to hunt with (300 WM, 6.5 CM, and 300 BLK) and a semi-auto .308 for piggies. So, I don't figure I need to repurpose this into a hunting rifle.
I'm a member at a rifle club that has ranges out to 1000 yards. I'd like to build a gun to participate in the 300 and 600 yard matches. I don't expect to beat the nationally ranked guys with real expensive custom rigs. I would like for the gun to perform well enough that 1) the main limitation is me as a shooter, and 2) it does well enough that "my free savage" holds it's own against other casual shooters.

I don't have a firm budget. I'd like to use as much of this gun as I can, but don't mind upgrading parts that are worth it.
For what it's worth, I like the trigger on this gun, and it feels really stable. I'm shooting about 2/3" group, at 11 yards, off a bi-pod with cheap PPU 22-250 ammo.

My brother is a mechanical engineer, reloads, and has done some "light gun smithing". I'm fairly handy. Most DIY level projects, are within reach.

Since this is a short action rifle, I figured a barrel swap was the most straight forward approach. Maybe to .243, 6.5 CM, or 308, since those have ammo available and my brother already reloads 243 and 308.
Any other calibers I y'all like for punching holes in paper?


For barrels -
I was looking at take off barrels from Northland shooter, or barrels from McCowan, or EABCO. Anyone like these barrels? Or are they ones to stay away from?


Maybe there's something really cool I can do with the gun, that I haven't even thought of yet.

Really just brain storming, and getting ideas. Thanks for your input!

Excellent! Don’t sell it short… Look our member Fuj’ here. He is a competing machine and lays many a high-dollar rig to shame with his Savage.

For a cartridge, if you are grabbing off the shelf, stick with the 6.5CM. It really does have the best ammunition as far as “shelf” ammunition goes. If you are reloading, go with whatever interests you. For a dedicated 300-600 gun, and statistically speaking, a small 6mm is best option. 6mm BR or one of its relatives. (I like the Dasher if I was doing a 6mm). Again though, if reloading, and you can’t go wrong really.

For a Barrel, I’d definitely recommend giving Jim a call at Northland Shooters. Shilen or Criterion. I’ve purchased one of each from him. First a Shilen & just received the Criterion. (The Criterion is a better choice I think, but either is really good.)


Now the trigger. Is it an Accutrigger, I thinking? Just throwing this out there. I actually do FREE trigger jobs for members here & the Accutrigger is a specialty for me. I also, very much like the Accutrigger & I set them up completely custom. I stone polish the Trigger/Sear surfaces, and change out the springs entirely for my own. As well as adding an overtravel stop. It wakes up the Accutrigger. I’ve done trigger jobs for many members here. If you’re interested, just message me. Open ended. And as I said, no charge. No gimmicks. Just something I do to give back.

I have to agree with Dave and the 6mm recommendation. Only I would also suggest the 6mm ARC which is what I am looking to put together once funds become more available. It's on the store shelves or tools to reload it are now readily available. From my research when loaded to the bolt rifle levels it is just about on par with the 6mm BR Norma. But the 6mm seems to be the sweet spot from 200-600yds when punching holes in paper.

So I did a quick search on the 10T-SR and looks like a fairly ready 300yd choice. A nice chassis and a good Bench type scope would be where I would start with that. I have a Athlon Argos 10-40X56 SFP Target reticle on my Model 11 that has been rebarreled with a Model 12 26" Varmint profile 223 that I shoot in a local league during the winter.

Maybe don't give up on that 22-250 just yet. A little load development with good quality match bullets should be competitive with most average shooters. My 223 will hold .5MOA at 300 yards which keeps up with everything other than the well built 6BRA and Dashers..

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Excellent! Don’t sell it short… Look our member Fuj’ here. He is a competing machine and lays many a high-dollar rig to shame with his Savage.

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I also get my ass handed to me on more then one occassion....

I'm a 7mm guy. In the new builders case and with ammo that can be bought, "Go" 284 Winchester
or at least a 7/08. If you reload, there is also the 7SAW. For a prefit, get a Shillen. I won't bad
mouth McGowan or Swaw but, Id never own one for my purposes. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a good
cartridge, just not good enough.

_.

The 284 is one of those magic cartridges. Big reason I’m always saying there’s nothing new. It was designed like a target cartridge of today in the early ‘60’s! With less body taper & a 35 degree shoulder. (Hornady didn’t invent a darn thing with the Creedmoor.) Only problem with it is it’s useless to those who don’t reload. Factory ammunition is nonexistent! But for a normal reloader like myself, and especially a Wildcat’r like Fuj’, it’s a winner.

You might also look at the 6BR or one of it's relatives. Very easy to load for and good barrel life. I rebuilt my Savage Mod 10 308 to the 6 BR and really like it.

6BR Cartridge Guide

When you go to the link above, look in the left hand column and you'll also see the other variants of the 6BR.

The 6 XC would also be another great round.

There’s that echo again, LOL!
J/K :tea:

KMW did bring up a good point of sticking with the 22-250. You said you wanted to use as much as you could. Keeping the factory barrel and going from there wouldn’t be a bad option. 22-250 will compete in 300yds with its eyes closed! And it can be competitive at 600. So I guess to think on. Good point out KMW.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

KMW did bring up a good point of sticking with the 22-250. You said you wanted to use as much as you could. Keeping the factory barrel and going from there wouldn’t be a bad option. 22-250 will compete in 300yds with its eyes closed! And it can be competitive at 600. So I guess to think on. Good point out KMW.

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From the little bit of research I was able to quickly do last night, I didn't find any reviews on the 22-250 model but it appears that rifle came with a heavy Varmint barrel with a 5R Rifling and the barrel length is either 24" or 26". Couldn't find what twist rate they used but if they actually did use a 5R Rifling then I would guess they also used a faster that 12 twist. Which will allow you to use 69gr or heavier bullets depending on the twist.

Now if BFlynn still insists on changing barrels I may be interested in relieving him of that old one!

I am a 7 mm guy also. The 284 is a mean cartridge. If you gun isn't 15 pounds you might like the 7-08 better. Very found of that cartridge.

I don't know your action size, 3006 size I just did a 7mmX57 AI, OMG!
My boy JUST finished a 358 Norma again OMG...

I had a 7mm-08 many years ago (1980's). Great cartridge and I could make all my brass from 7.62x51 surplus. Just run the larger neck case through a FL size die. Mine shot really well with factory or reloads. The .284 is a step up in speed but is another one of those inherently good cartridges. Now days I don't like recoil as much so I have a 6BR. Really a nice 600yd cartridge. I do have a .308 but it is my cast bullet gun.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 8mm RUM

I don't know your action size, 3006 size I just did a 7mmX57 AI, OMG!
My boy JUST finished a 358 Norma again OMG...

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He has the model 10T. It’s a Short Action.

We’ve crossed into that point when everyone will just give their favorite choice, not the best option for the OP. We don’t even know if he’s planning on reloading? He mentioned his brother reloads, but it sounds like he will be relying primarily on Factory ammunition. To which I again say the 6.5 Creedmoor is hands down, the best option. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t even like the 6.5CM! But I admit it’s the winner when it comes to a target capable cartridge for those who don’t reload and must use factory ammunition. Unless you reload, 7mm-08 won’t do you any good. All the factory stuff is hunting ammo, not precision target ammo. And forget anything 6mm BR related. That’s purely reloader cartridge territory.

But for 300 and 600yd the 7mm-08, 6mmCM, .243, and even .308 are also good choices (yes, there is some premium match available for 7mm-08). Heck, even a lowly .223 can do ok at 600 with the factory 77gn loads.

If not reloading it all depends on what you can find on the shelf....and then order a ton of it :)

Never said they weren’t. Read what I typed again Charlie. Are a married couple with 3+ children better off with a 2-door sports car or a minivan/SUV?

Just can't resist spending other people's money! I would stick with the 22-250, especially if it is 9 or faster, and put my money in a good scope. Please remember you may not like what I like, so go to some matches and look through the scopes. (I am liking the FFP scopes for target work) and some of the chinese glass isn't too bad. Bed the rifle and get some good bullets and have at it.

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Originally Posted by bsekf

Just can't resist spending other people's money! I would stick with the 22-250, especially if it is 9 or faster, and put my money in a good scope. Please remember you may not like what I like, so go to some matches and look through the scopes. (I am liking the FFP scopes for target work) and some of the chinese glass isn't too bad. Bed the rifle and get some good bullets and have at it.

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Yup!:( Even if it’s a 1:12, it will still do well with the lighter 22-250 loads. Almost all factory loaded 22-250 is using 55gr. bullets MAX anyway. If reloading, could likely push it to 60gr bullets. And yes, decide what your scope budget is and apply the money to it & high quality mounting. OR, instead of buying a new barrel right now, use that money for reloading press & supplies. And plan for a barrel in the cartridge You Want ​down the road a bit.

Regarding posts 17 and 18, seems that what my contention was with my last paragraph in post #3. Still I would be interested to learn more about the barrel that is on it. Length, Twist. Then start with a good fitting chassis and a good target scope. Maybe add the Savage Target trigger spring, they are available at Gun Shack.

As t scopes and target shooting, I learned the hard way. After buying and trying to use FFP scopes while trying to shoot fixed distance 1" X-Ring at 300 yards. At full magnification the reticle would cover the X-Ring. Also if shooting at small targets 1/8 click MOA works even better!

:frusty:

I really appreciate everyone's input and feedback! There's a lot for me to get my head around (and learn). I also appreciate that everyone is good at spending other's people money. ;) I'm also good at that!

A few details about the gun:
It does have the 5R rifling, and is a 26" barrel. My brother ended up getting the same rifle in .308. That comes with a 20in barrel. I'm mostly sure that the 22-250 is a 1:8 twist rate, but I've emailed Savage for specs.

"extra" scopes I have:
4.5-14x Burris MTac, 3-12x Nikon Monarch, 2.5-10x Nikon Monarch. 4-16x Vortex Diamondback. They're all decent enough. Might need more glass to go to 600... but these hold zero, and the Burris and Vortex have the ballistic turrets for adjustment. For anyone interested - I've gotten a couple scopes from Primary Arms. I've been real impressed - at least on hunting rigs, and the customer service has been awesome.


So for calibers - what I'm getting is that the 6mmBR is a great choice if I can reload, but for store bought options, 6.5 CM is probably the best choice.
I don't have the skillset for reloading. I've got the diagnosed squirrel brain. Attention to detail is not my strength. My brother reloads though, and he's a pretty good engineer. We have a barter system that normally involves some mix of smoked meat, empty brass, and brown liquor, in exchange for reloaded ammo. I'll have to see if he's agreeable to another cartridge. We've already got a couple of 9.3x62 project guns going that he'll have to make all the ammo for.

Also, appreciate the feedback on barrel choices.

I didn't even know 6mm BR was thing!

I'll definitely give Jim a call. After posting this, ran into someone at my range with a savage bench rest gun he had put together, and really liked his criterion barrel.

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Originally Posted by KMW1954

From the little bit of research I was able to quickly do last night, I didn't find any reviews on the 22-250 model but it appears that rifle came with a heavy Varmint barrel with a 5R Rifling and the barrel length is either 24" or 26". Couldn't find what twist rate they used but if they actually did use a 5R Rifling then I would guess they also used a faster that 12 twist. Which will allow you to use 69gr or heavier bullets depending on the twist.

Now if BFlynn still insists on changing barrels I may be interested in relieving him of that old one!

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Those are both interesting ideas. I'll let you know, what I decide either way.

BFlynn, as stated, I have been competing with a Savage in 223Rem for 2 seasons already and getting ready for a 3rd. We have 20 members in this league and I am the only one shooting a 22. Majority are shooting some form of 6mm, 1 30BR, 1 7mm08, I believe 3 308, a couple 6.5CM.. I shoot the 223 with a 69gr bullet and right now experimenting with a 60gr VMAX. I've been able to hold my own against the avg. shooters while there is a large gap between the top shooters.

I honestly feel the hold up for me has been the use of the wrong glass. What works for PRC shooting doesn't do well for what we are shooting. Personally I would not hesitate to shoot a 22-250 in this league. Which again my goal was to be shooting this Savage with a Shilen barrel chambered in 6ARC.. The ARC will compete with the 6mmBR Norma when run as a bolt rifle with the actual difference between the two when loaded with the same bullets and powder being a reduction in speed with the ARC of only about 50FPS.

So I do not know what the cost difference is between the 6ARC and the 6.5Creedmore in factory loads or even the factory 22-250.

Something else to think about. The 22-250 uses the same bolt head as the 6mmBR and I believe the same for the 6.5CM. The ARC uses the same bolt head as the 6.5Grendal.

Squirrel brain or not I'd go with a starter hand loading kit. Its the biggest accuracy gain you can make to any factory rifle in good working order. It's also not as hard as some might deduce from reading online, basic reloading's actually simple as.a matter of fact it's
just basic mechanics. Youre just replacing components of a simple device composed of case, propellant, ignition, and fuel. Pull the lever and the case is deprimed and sized. Squeeze the handle the primer is replaced. Fill it with fuel (powder) and pull the lever to seat the bullet into place. Stay within the minimum and maximum charges in the manual and youre golden.
Test fire with different charges within that window and select which one shoots best.
A starter kit like the Lee can be had for under $150 whats that? The cost of 3 or 4 box's? Then another $35-40 for dies and a few bucks for consumables I still use one my wife bought me 30+ years ago though over time I've added items to my bench. It still turns out plenty of one ragged hole ammo tuned for my rifles.
Jump on in the waters fine and you can make it as simple or complicated as you want to.

You can spend all the money building a custom rifle you want to, but unless youre lucky enough to find a load it likes, its not going to give top performance and often will shoot no better than a factory rig.
With a kit you tune the load for your rifle and make top shelf stuff for barrel bottom money.
Ill say again the biggest accuracy improvement for the least money available, and it will work with all your firearms. Ammo is the key to accuracy in a properly functioning firearm.
Good luck BHJ

Flyn,
I also am doing a "project gun". Bought a 110 in .30/06 and have added a 6.5 CM and a .220 Rocket barrels. Search for whatever shooters are selling in the way of used barrels and then play with it. Put a Boyd's stock on it with a large barrel channel. I may also get into magnum cases and change the bolt head.
I am having a lot of fun doing this. Just for punching holes in paper. All started when a friend was selling his barrel vice, action wrench and a nut wrench.
Dave, may take you up on the Accutrigger!

That's helpful to hear. I think I'm going to have to bite that bullet, so to speak.

So in terms of building a target gun, that won't break the bank, it sounds like the priorities are:

1) Load Developement

2) Good barrel

3) Glass

4) Chassis

None of which matter, if the biggest problem is still between my ears.

Follow up questions - what do y'all look for in a scope?

Savage touts the aluminum block bedding as helping to improve accuracy. Would you see much benefit from something like an MDT Oryx?


Also - and I realize I'm asking a partial group - what do you like about Savage actions, over brands like howa, ruger, remington?

Have kind of given my impression of scopes back in post 19. It sort of depends on what you intend to do with it. If trying to shoot very small targets at distance then a Second Focal Plain scope with a very fine reticle and 1/8 MOA adjustments really pays off. In my case I am using an Athlon Argos BTR GenII 10-40X56, https://athlonoptics.com/product/arg...6-blr-sfp-moa/ , there are others in this category but most are much more money. If interested in PRS type shooting or varmint shooting then the FFP scopes shine.

In your case my order would be; Load, Glass, Chassis, barrel. I truly believe that Savage 22-250 barrel will hold up well against any other factory barrel and not be far behind many of the aftermarket prefits. It it were me I would shoot it until it has proven it will not perform or you advance in skill and ability. Heck after a year you could even lose interest!

Chassis selection is more personal preference and what strikes your fancy. We all have different likes, looks and needs.

Load development is essential if serious about shooting bug hole groups. Bullet choice and combinations of bullets, powder and load level can all be tuned for maximum performance.

My personal experience is I started with the 223 as an inexpensive way to get started and involved. Now after 2 seasons I have taken this rifle as far as it will go w/o making a change. I am at the point that I am thinking stepping up to the 6mm round or moving to a more Match type barrel with a much faster twist for the 223 to enable the use of more Match type and weight bullets.

This is what I am shooting in league to 300 yards. Also A 300yd target, 223Rem

Attachment 9970Attachment 9971

Scope choice definitely wouldnt be a Burris Mtac 4.5-14x. Though the image is really clear and bright the crosshairs are way too thick for target work and will cover an entire group from a well tuned up 22-250.
They are great for hunting or tactical work where heavy easily seen reticles on center mass quickly are desired.
If I were going to reccomend a general multi use scope for a 26" 22-250 it would probably be a Burris E1 6.5-20x50. Relatively inexpensive if you shop around and the ballistic E1 reticle on this model is designed with drop and windage .arks to specifically match the trajectory of the 22-250. Its what I recently put on my model 12 BVSS and I like it a lot.
With regards to barrel if you tune a load for what you've got you'll probably be shocked how accurate it is. The .224 diameter bullets are super versitile and.also a bargain and usually come in 100 count boxes and are generally much cheaper than anything larger and they're constantly readily available in a really wide variety of weights and bullet styles. The cases dont burn a huge amount of powder either. The 22-250 is an economical flat shooting speed demon. Hornady has also just come out with some.new specialized high BC target bullets that will probably benefit the 22-250 even more than the propriatary cartridge Hornady is marketing them for.
As far as stocks fo the factory aluminum bedding blocks are quite sufficient for excellent accuracy when properly torqued. Personally I'd leave it alone, add good mounts and glass, tune up a load. and get after it.
I think you have a lot more rifle than you realize and with a little development and a tuned load are going to be shocked what its capable of.

Yeah, I don't think this Burris MTac is going to get much use. I bought it on clearance, to try a mil dot scope. I don't like a mil dot scope. I have too many scopes as it is.
Glad to hear that you like the E1. I'm going to keep my eye out.

Which Hornady 224 bullets are you talking about? I saw they have the aluminum tipped ones now. They also have an 88 gr ELD Match. I never know how much of the marketing to believe, and don't know enough to weed through the BS.

Now that I've gone down this rabbit hole... I've decided to keep the 22-250.....
Worked out an arrangement within the family. I clean out a portion of the garage, to make my wife happy. My brother (who just moved down and lives close by) sets up his reloading stuff in my garage. We get to reload and have an excuse to hang out.

Do you have mounts that you recommend? I've always used Warne or Leopold rings - but those may not be sufficient.

I'm wondering if anyone has used these tuning brakes . If you use match grade ammo, and one of these tuners, can you get results closer to a tuned hand load?

That's really helpful to see. And that scope is on sale at Academy for $400. I have too many scopes already. Maybe I can purge a couple.

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Originally Posted by BFlynn

That's really helpful to see. And that scope is on sale at Academy for $400. I have too many scopes already. Maybe I can purge a couple.

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While there are other scopes in this price range I would look to, notably I would not invest in scope/hardware with 1” tube as I believe it’s obsolete anymore. However, the reticle matches your 22-250 & and the 6.5-20x is good power range for near & far. So it’s likely a good bet for you. However, do not spend $400 on that E1 scope! The estimated retail is $359 according to Burris. And you can buy it for $311 here. https://www.amazon.com/Burris-Fullfi...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

For rings, if you already have Warne or Leupold, they will work fine. Much in the way of optics hardware is just style. We’ve discussed this here several times actually. Whether using the inexpensive Leupold standard rings, a modern Picatinny rail & nice set of 30mm of 34mm 7075-T6 Billet Aluminum Rings or even a $400 1-piece Spuhr mount, they will all do what they are supposed to. Just stick with name brands & the style you like. While I’ll spend $150 on rings & I use the Audere 34mm PSR rings, but I won’t spend $400!

With scope hardware there is diminishing returns. While the Leupold standard rings are fine on a hunting rifle, I wouldn’t use them on a Target rifle. Or with very heavy cartridges. But once you get to the 7075 Aluminum Picatinny rails/rings, they will easily survive even 50BMG punishment. So at this level it becomes purely about style.

Hornadys new .224 bullet is the ELD VT. They're releasing it along with their new cartridge the .22ARC. Pretty sure the ARC will flop because .223 will rule the AR platform for eternity and it doesnt do what the 22-250 they compare it to already does in a bolt action. That said new " high tech" bullet designs and advancements are always welcome.
Im cheap. I'd probably shop penny auctions on GB till I found an E1 at the right price. If I remember right I picked one up for like $239. Those scopes may be discontinued cause I know a while back there were a ton of em on the market clearance priced. Its pretty much a general purpose scope but has very good performance that wont break the bank and a forever warranty you wont need.
The Mtac is a great scope. Ive had one on an SR25 pattern rifle for quite a few years. Its just purpose designed for tactical rifles so not the best for pinpoint type target shooting.
Bases and rings are up to you and their are a zillion options. I like a set of medium height dual dovetails just for their set it and forget it simplicity and rugged design. They also provide lots of room at the ejection port with good acess for single loading, cleaning and maintenance, Standard leupolds etc work just fine and he DNZ stuff is solid too. Some guys like picatinny setups but most set the scope up too high for me to use or the rail and bell dont jive for me limiting fore and aft movement. Im a stock crawler and like.my setup as low aa I can get it.
I know the old fullfield 2s were awesome optics but the ones I have are from back when they were made in USA. Prettt sure the 6.5-20 fullfield 2s are also calibrated for 22-250 but without the windage hashmarks and theyre around $200 and probably less.
Everybodys budget etc is different, but I've done pretty well with decent lower budget equipment. A fella can spend a lot more and get a lot less.
Hope you find a setup that works for you and a one hole load for your rifle.
Ps sierra accuracy loads and nosler most accurate load tested are a very good place to start. They can often be tweaked a little for excellent results. Sometimes not.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by centershot

Flyn,
I also am doing a "project gun". Bought a 110 in .30/06 and have added a 6.5 CM and a .220 Rocket barrels. Search for whatever shooters are selling in the way of used barrels and then play with it. Put a Boyd's stock on it with a large barrel channel. I may also get into magnum cases and change the bolt head.
I am having a lot of fun doing this. Just for punching holes in paper. All started when a friend was selling his barrel vice, action wrench and a nut wrench.
Dave, may take you up on the Accutrigger!

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So are you swapping barrels, back and forth, on the rifle?

Because that idea is what got me started down this rabbit hole to start with. What I'd really like is to be able to have 1 hunting rifle, with barrels in 6.5 PRC, 300WM, and maybe a 35 Whelan.
I'd also like it to break down to fit into a shorter case. But before I go switching barrels back and forth, I thought I'd see if I could switch them once.

When you go from 30/06 to 6.5CM do you have to change bolts or anything else?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by big honkin jeep

Hornadys new .224 bullet is the ELD VT. They're releasing it along with their new cartridge the .22ARC. Pretty sure the ARC will flop because .223 will rule the AR platform for eternity and it doesnt do what the 22-250 they compare it to already does in a bolt action. That said new " high tech" bullet designs and advancements are always welcome.
Im cheap. I'd probably shop penny auctions on GB till I found an E1 at the right price. If I remember right I picked one up for like $239. Those scopes may be discontinued cause I know a while back there were a ton of em on the market clearance priced. Its pretty much a general purpose scope but has very good performance that wont break the bank and a forever warranty you wont need.
The Mtac is a great scope. Ive had one on an SR25 pattern rifle for quite a few years. Its just purpose designed for tactical rifles so not the best for pinpoint type target shooting.
Bases and rings are up to you and their are a zillion options. I like a set of medium height dual dovetails just for their set it and forget it simplicity and rugged design. They also provide lots of room at the ejection port with good acess for single loading, cleaning and maintenance, Standard leupolds etc work just fine and he DNZ stuff is solid too. Some guys like picatinny setups but most set the scope up too high for me to use or the rail and bell dont jive for me limiting fore and aft movement. Im a stock crawler and like.my setup as low aa I can get it.
I know the old fullfield 2s were awesome optics but the ones I have are from back when they were made in USA. Prettt sure the 6.5-20 fullfield 2s are also calibrated for 22-250 but without the windage hashmarks and theyre around $200 and probably less.
Everybodys budget etc is different, but I've done pretty well with decent lower budget equipment. A fella can spend a lot more and get a lot less.
Hope you find a setup that works for you and a one hole load for your rifle.
Ps sierra accuracy loads and nosler most accurate load tested are a very good place to start. They can often be tweaked a little for excellent results. Sometimes not.

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Yeah, I try to buy "good enough to get the job done" or maybe just above that. I don't like to overspend on features I don't need.... so I really appreciate everyone's help!

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Originally Posted by BFlynn

So are you swapping barrels, back and forth, on the rifle?

Because that idea is what got me started down this rabbit hole to start with. What I'd really like is to be able to have 1 hunting rifle, with barrels in 6.5 PRC, 300WM, and maybe a 35 Whelan.
I'd also like it to break down to fit into a shorter case. But before I go switching barrels back and forth, I thought I'd see if I could switch them once.

When you go from 30/06 to 6.5CM do you have to change bolts or anything else?

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Going between 30-06 & 6.5Cm, No, a bolt head is not needed. Provided you start with a 30-06 LA, nothing else besides the Barrel is required.

Swap barrels and compact case. I'd ask someone who has done it how much the zero changes between swaps. For the compact case you have to consider the fore end of the stock as well. Do you leave the stock full length? If so you could just remove the barreled action from the stock and have something almost as short as the stock (or shorter). If you cut the stock then how much.

I only ask cause I have tried to work this kind of thing through myself and I've often wondered how well the take down systems really work. I suspect well enough for close range hunting, but, precision? Maybe set up each barrel as a scout scope setup and maybe the zero would not change as much?

All of that was what got me to go down the rabbit hole of TC Contender barrels a long time ago.

I have to sight in my rifle every time I swap barrels. Don't mind doing that. loads of fun!

I'd really like to take you up on your generous offer for help with the trigger. How do we put that in motion?

CharlieB -

I think they work well enough for hunting. I've talked with a guy on another forum that had swapped barrels and felt he could change calibers and could use the gun as a functional hunting weapon out to 500 yards. I'll try to find the link.
Basically has the scope zerod for one caliber, and knows the adjustments for each different barrel. He recommended shouldered barrels, and adding a set screw in the barrel nut to ensure everything is seated the same.

I've got a buddy that hunts with a Blazer and he feels like 300 yards is the limit of his effective range. I don't plan on hunting anything further than that.

As a test - I took my hunting rifle to the range, shot a good group at 300 yards. Removed the stock from the gun. Reattached the stock, and shot another good group without moving the point of impact. So that may be my method.
Regardless - I won't try anything hunting, that I haven't confirmed on the range first.

Update -

Whelp - y'all have ruined me. I'm definitely going down the reloading path!

A guy at my rifle club was getting rid of a target gun - Savage 110 action - McGowen Bull Barrel - 6mm CM - on an Oryx Chassis. He already had loads developed so I pulled the trigger.
Shot a .68" group with factory factory ammo, at 100 yards. Shot his hand loads and the holes where overlapping. Put my Burris on it, for now, until I decide what glass to get. Figure I'll start with this.

Was ready to get rid of the 22-250..... but then I just shot it again, and I just like it so much.

Instead of reducing something from the safe.... it got more full. Oops!

Congrats Im sure youll enjoy it.
With a little load development the 22-250 should be overlapping as well before you know it. The long term ammo savings will pay for your kit much daster than you think even if the savings go up in more shooting instead of directly in your pocket.
Ps i got a mailbox flyer from Natchez and they have the Burris E1 6.5-20x50 on sale for $249.99
Attachment 10059

Savages are fun.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Savages are fun.

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Attachment 10062Attachment 10063
Indeed they are!