I'm wondering if anyone has bedded an Accufit stock or if it even pays to.
Thank you.
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I'm wondering if anyone has bedded an Accufit stock or if it even pays to.
Thank you.
Bedding any stock or Chassis is never a bad idea, but the gains won’t be as seen on some over others. The Accufit stock already uses a full length Aluminum block. Which is the ideal bedding material. However, it is a mass produced ordeal by Savage. So having the consistency of an aftermarket setup is not something I would bet on. I would shoot it first. Likely gains in accuracy would only be seen, if the rifle was simply not accurate to begin with, with any loads, factory or loaded. That said, if an Accufit Savage is giving the owner already SUB 1” groups or better…, bedding the stock will not miraculously turn it into a 1/4MOA rig.
Once again, in case it was missed: Bedding any stock or chassis is never a bad thing as long as it’s done correctly.
Like all things in here. Shoot it first. Then try to pin down what is causing larger than desired groups FYI, many factory loads will not shoot 1MOA or better until you get into the match loads.
Exactly.
The interesting thing about the Accustock and its alluminum cradle, it is flexible. The most accurate hunting rifle I had was a bedded Stevens stock. That is eye opening.
Completely seperate and without getting philisophical, I am going to say that if you are willing to put up with the weight, go for it. Please do a load workup before and after and show the results.
Fo sho I would be skim bedding it and fo sho the recoil lug. Cheers. Why not. It’s not going to hurt accuracy.
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Thanks all. This stock does not come with the aluminum insert. Only two small pillars for front and rear screws.
Then my question would be is the stock too flexible for bedding to do any good?
Is yours an Ultra-Light? That version I know, does not have the Aluminum Chassis cradle. Instead, just the pillars as you mentioned. Only one that doesn’t that I’m aware of. For the weight savings obviously.
And in that case, yes bedding, along with the pillars is ideal for this. I would do it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...02401651dd.jpg
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What is this representative of Hamilton? Just showing your bedding of the Front & Recoil Lug?Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiltonkiler
My apologies. I saw accufit and read Accustock. I still say do it. I did add pillars. I did the front and rear but it is your stock. I saw a serious accuracy improvement. Rigidity? Harmonics? Who knows. It worked.
The accufit stock is different than the accu stock. One is like the stock I’m showing. Pillars in plastic. It helped tremendously to bed the front of the action and the recoil lug.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
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All that I’ve read the “Accustock” aluminum bedding was included in the Accufit offerings except for the ultra light. What model do have?
I know at least many of them are. So, they aren’t ALL different. American Rifle from 2018:
https://www.americanrifleman.org/con...ape-of-savage/
Thank you for the picture ! Very helpful. Can you tell me what you bedded with and how you prepared the bedding area ?Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiltonkiler
Thanks again ! Is there a way to contact you personally to visit about your bedding process?
919669286zeroQuote:
Originally Posted by woodsrunner
Kiler
JB weld. Painters tape. Bow string wax.
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And maybe some modeling clay. A Dremel or a small set of files helps on the finish work.Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiltonkiler
https://ibb.co/wwpH3tLOn my Ultralite's Accufit stock, no portions of the pillars were contacting the action. They were about 60 thou below the stock's action surface. There was not distinct "lock up" of the action screws when torqued to 30, then 34, and then to the 38-40# spec. It felt like mush, as the polymer stock was compressiing but not achieving metal-to-metal contact. Any additional torque would likely stress the action. The Accufit stock does not have radiused pillars either. Notably, when placing the barreled action into the stock, there us side-to-side rocking. That means the action screws are also doing the duty of centering the action vertically. At the various torques I applied, I noticed a tiny bit of movement signs in the stock, and unacceptable vertical shot strings from high to low at 600 to 850 yards. I called Savage and explained my concerns, and they promptly stated that they are sending me a new stock. In the meantime for the sake of providing you folks with entertainment, I radiused my current stock and pillars with a 1" pipe wrapped with a full sheet of 80-grit, using soft rubber shims to keep the pipe centered in the forend channel. I sanded until the the rear "cut" pillar almost became fully radiused, and the most of the front pillar became radiused. The radius rig I described is slightly smaller than the action radius, which should put a nice squeeze on the action as I torque the action screws. I noticed a definate lock up in the action screws as I put the gun back together. The front action screw is at 40#, and the rear is at 34". I'm hopping in the buggy and heading down to rip some off to see what the results are and report back. I can't seem to post pics.
https://ibb.co/wwpH3tL https://ibb.co/wgH5t04
Glad they are send you a replacement stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleeb
Whelp, it shot OK. I took six shots at 100yds. The 2nd and 3rd were 3/4" low, and the rest were piled on each other. Also, the 175gr Hornady Precision Hunter ammo is shooting no where near advertised, and with a spread from 1708 to 1802fps. I wish I had time to work up some loads before I go elk hunting next week. I hope the next lot of ammo I buy is better.
I noticed some action flex when playing with the rear action screw. I had not taken the tang area down enough, so I gently sanded it with a longer piece of the same diameter pipe until I achieved a perfect mating surface. I re-assembled the gun, set the front screw at 40# and the rear at 36#, while keeping my finger on the end of the tang as I was torquing. No flex. I shot a quick three shot group at 1/2" while testing different chrony panels (IR). I think this is the ticket. I am waiting on more ammo, as well as dies and ELD-Xs to confirm.
I threw the replacement stock on, did a proper torque, and it's shooting an average of 3/4 MOA over the last 52 rounds. That'll be fine for my elk trip this week.
Delete. sorry.
Where?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleeb
Colorado.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
I'll pick up this thread as I perform another experiment with my extra stock which was replaced with a new one by Savage. I'll detail my methods as clearly as possible.
As detailed in Post #18, I had already sanded the stock's action channel and radiused the pillars, and the gun shot OK, but not as good as the new factory stock.
I had already bedded the action with the Pete's Pillars using some Pro-Bed 2000 which has been in my basement for at least 5 years. The job was a complete fail in my OCD book, as the compound did not adhere to my expectation as a thin skim coat on top.
Attachment 10132
I was able to spin out the pillars, flake off the skim coat and clean everything easily up before it fully cured. That said, I do prefer Pro-bed 2000 for stock bedding, which has performed well for years in my 03-A3 and 6mm wood stocks, as well as my Weatherby Accumark synthetic stock - dealing with the substantial recoil of a 340 Weatherby Mag. In this episode I will be using Marine-Tex for the first time on a stock, which I have used for years on my boats. I will explain the prep work which was done for the first bedding attempt.
So I decided to install Pete's Pillars. They are 1/2" OD, and require 5/8" material removal in order to get a good amount of epoxy material to glue them in.
In order to remove the factory pillars, I used a 9/32" drill pushed through the pillar to align the stock, bottom up, in the drill press vise. Then I chucked a 7/16" drill to just bite into the pillar bottom and spin it to break the adhesive bond. With the drill press off, I pushed the pillar out with the drill. Then I chucked a 9/16" bit and drilled a larger hole. Rinse and repeat with the other pillar. By hand I ran a 5/8" coarse thread tap through the holes to create an increased bonding surface.
To increase and improve the action bedding surface, I gouged areas of the top and the recoil lug face with my trust Horror Fright rotary tool with various-shaped cutters. I also drilled small holes in the gouged areas as well as other surface areas, and finished the action surface with a few swipes of 40-grit. After the first bedding attempt, I took down the inlet top by a few thou to both clean the Pro-Bed off and to increase the bedding compound thickness I could apply. Here is the result:
Attachment 10129Attachment 10130
As one can see above, I dammed up areas of the trigger and magazine inlets with plumber's putty to prevent bedding compound intrusion. All other areas of the stock inletting were waxed with copious amounts of mold release wax (Partall Paste #2 - which I use for making fiberglass boat parts). I also put two layer of painting tape under the action's tang in order to maintain the necessary float. All other holes and slots are dammed with putty. For guide posts, I got two long 1/4 x 28 hex head bolts, cut the heads off, and threaded the other end with a 1/4 x 20 coarse thread die. I waxed the heck out of them, threaded the fine thread into the action, and will use nuts on the coarse thread end to index and secure the pillars to the action. The extra length allows for an easy and centered drop onto the action (I drop the stock onto the action). The small recoil lug indexing tab area voids are filled with wax, and I taped off the bottom, sides and front of the lug. The entire prepped action and some of the barrel is then sprayed with a couple coats of Mann Ease Release 200. Much easier than wax, and can get into areas inside the action which MUST be protected from sticking compound.
Attachment 10133
After measuring the action diameter, I first used a half-round mill bastard to rough a radius in the top of the pillars, and then finished it with a scrap piece of 1" PVC pipe (1.3125" diameter) with a wrap of 220 grit, careful to keep the file and pipe perpendicular to the pillar. A better method would have been to chuck a large drill or mill in the drill press and create it that way, but I don't have the correct size. Inspecting the first bedding attempt, I noted that the front action screw pillar was slightly low in the front. You can see that it took a dab of compound, so I fixed that. The fit should now be perfect, LOL! The Pete's Pillars are machined quite smoothly, and there is very little bonding area in the stock to begin with, and even less left after enlarging the holes. So I roughed them up with 40 grit, and gouged vertical channels in them with the HF rotary tool to create an anti-twist epoxy lock.
Attachment 10131
More to come as I continue today. Next steps are a final and excrutiatingly precise bedding surface and pillar cleaning with acetone. Then comes the big squish!
OK, I got the pillars secured and the stock prepped:
Attachment 10135Attachment 10137Attachment 10136
You're probably thinking to yourself about how you can have a nice, neat workshop table like mine too.....
The Marine-Tex is runnier than I remember, so I added some silica to it to thicken it up. It was still much thinner than Pro-Bed 2000, so I had to drop the action into the stock instead of vice-versa. I wrapped it with electical tape for a nice, even squeeze. I have been flipping it over and back as the Marine-Tex set up to ensure that the it doesn't drip out of the pillar area and leave voids. I hope the rest of it stayed where it needs to be too. We will soon find out if it's GTG or trash!
Attachment 10138Attachment 10139
EDIT: I forgot to add that I used a small disposable syringe to inject the all holes with the Marine-Tex to avoid air pockets, The holes behind the recoil lug may have a dual purpose. Not only do they serve as mechanical anchors for the bedding top, they also may play a minor role in diminishing compression of the stock from recoil. They are connected below the surface.
Looking good!
Thanks! It took me years to get my workshop table to that level of completeness!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
:biggrin-new:
Welp, I popped the barrelled action out this morning. Everything looked good except for the rear radius of the rear action pillar, which is devoid of compound at the very top. Next time I use Marine-Tex I will let it set up on the mixing pallette for a while longer. It's just too runny for my liking. Given the small amount of bonding surface for the rear pillar, I will clean/degrease and us another syringe to inject a small amount to fill it. Otherwise, everything else came out acceptably.
Here's the raw product after clearing some putty and before any trimming. I'll fill the void now before full cure, but wait for a couple of days before machining the pillars and clearing the inletting.
Attachment 10143Attachment 10144
To my knowledge the 110 Ultralight, 110 Lightweight Storm and 110 Apex Storm XP all come with the Accufit adjustable LOP but not the Accustock aluminum block. For the UL and LWS it would be for weight savings like you said, and for the Apex XPs I imagine it's for cost savings. Also I notice the LWS and Apex XP have the LOP adjustments but not the cheek riser adjustments like the full Accufit/Accustock has. The Ultralight stock seems to be unique that it has both Accufit adjustments but no Accustock block.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback