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Hi all, long time lurker on the site but haven't posted much. Looking into aftermarket triggers and I want to hear from folks that have used multiple aftermarket options. Still happy to hear if you've used Trigger X and how it compares to accutrigger, but really want to compare the different aftermarket options. Looking hard into the ELF trigger, but want to know how it compares to Jard, Timney, Rifle Basix, sharp shooter supply, others?
Thanks!
Having used factory and modified factory triggers, SavII, Timney, and SSS triggers i still prefer the SSS. Fortunately I have several some still in the package. The Sav II is good if you are patient. Out of all the factory style triggers the Red blade Accutrigger shimmed is a favorite due to the safety aspect for most people. My next purchase would be a Jard and then an Elfman. I believe trigger makers should provide a sear with their triggers so people that do not know what they are doing don't get stupid and mess them up.
Yes, I’m actually perplexed why Jard has been the ONLY Savage trigger to include a Sear. That is the problem with every Savage aftermarket trigger except the Jard. No matter which is used, still must rely on the stock sear. I’m still forever a fan of a worked Accutrigger. If a company would produce a Jard like trigger, but with Safe Action, that would be my dream trigger. Maybe I’ll take on another project and fabricate one like that in through hardened steel instead of the case hardening used.
Dave you build one like that and I will be your first customer!! As for the question I have used timney,rifle basix, and finally the jard. All are an improvement over the factory offerings in my opinion. I like the jard the best due to the things already mentioned
I have SharpShooterSupply triggers on all my Savages. Really like them.
Sharp Shooter Supply triggers were discontinued a year or so ago.
timney was the only one i kept,
and one red blade on a lr single shot
letrbuck, the Trigger You get depends on the type of shooting You intend to do with the rifle. If You intend to shoot competitive Bench Rest, I suggest the Rifle Basics Savage II. Like Robin said, You need a lot of patience to get it reliably on a lower setting.
For all other shooting applications, I recommend the Elftmann. The design is so simple I wonder why it didn’t come along years ago.
Any of the available triggers are suitable for hunting and casual target shooting, including tuning up any of the factory triggers.
Good Luck, and let us know Your choice.
I shoot competitively and have settled on the Rifle Basics for UBR, and still useQuote:
Originally Posted by GrenGuy
the Savage PTA Accu trigger on the Ridgway gun. I tried Jard, and sent it back.
I understand ELF is a good trigger, but like Timney, just cant get it low enough
to suit my needs..... In respect to having patience with the Rifle Basic ?? I must
have lucked out. Between installation and a half season of bench rest, all has
gone well.
I shoot a RB Sav II that is holding at 4 ounces. I have another one that will not corporate, and I don’t know why. That rifle is a Heavy Gun and now has an SSS set at 10 ounces. I’m shooting an Elftmann, that I modified, holding at 8 ounces.
Warning...these triggers are used on Bench Rest target rifles, that are shot at a “Cold Range”, which means the bolts are not installed until all rifles are pointed in a safe direction, and the command is given...”Install Bolts”.
Be Safe, and if You work on a trigger, be sure You know what Your doing
I was gonna say... 4oz!!!? :bolt:Id be afraid that would go off if I SNEEZED unexpectedly! LOL! But I get what you’re saying. Your not just pulling up to a public range willy, nilly to shoot for fun. You have a whole process for competition, inserting the bolt right at the time of shooting. And I would think you close the bolt with a great deal of care. At least that’s how I’ve always seen it done with ultra light “hair” triggers like that.
Shot a 1.5oz Jewell in short range BR. Kelblys Stolle Panda action though.
1.5oz? Never heard of a trigger that light. Doesn’t really seem mechanically possible. But, ok.
They're out there. Benchrest thing, mostly. Arnold Jewell was known for his light triggers.
Dave, You need to broaden Your horizon. We are competing against Bix & Andy triggers, some breaking at 1/3 ounce, putting Savages at a huge disadvantage. There is a blip on YouTube where a guy causes a trigger to break by blowing on it. If I continue in Bench Rest, I will have to upgrade to an action that supports one of these precision triggers.
LOL.. I think my “horizon broadness” is doing just fine, LOL! Looking high & low, the lightest I’ve ever seen is like 3oz. And I’m pretty much of the opinion, if it ain’t on video, it probably doesn’t exist. A THIRD of an ounce? Uhh, ok. Show me the video & I’ll believe it hands down, LOL! Just I know weight retry well. When you say below One ounce, that is just ridiculous.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuj'
I have never had trouble either but I have read several times that some guys cant get it right.
I know you believe in sasquatch because there are more and more videos out there everyday. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
Well, duh! And uh, I prefer Big Foot thank you very much.
They were my favorite as well, I wish I would have bought more. BBR screwed us out of a great trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Most I know shoot Bix or Jewel and in the 2 ounce range. I have the Savage and RB to 8 ounces.
It's what I'm comfortable with for my type of hold. Even though the pull gage gives Identical
weights, the RB breaks cleaner, thus making it feel lighter. The Jard I sent back failed the slam
fire test at 10 ounces. I shoot heavy guns (17lbs plus) so a heavier trigger is not much of a
problem. The guys shooting light gun at 10 to 12 lbs. rely on them light triggers.
Yes, My RB II has the sharpest, cleanest break. I was looking at a target that would have been a 50, but one flier dropped out the bottom into the 9 ring. Makes Me wonder if I got in a hurry and broke that shot just ever too hard? Yesterday I dry fired a stock blade trigger, set at 8 oz, and it felt like a ton. This stuff plays with your head at a match, and it’s just something else you need to block out. I long for a trigger where I can think break, and the shot is gone. It just takes more money for a trigger than I have paid for a lot of My rifles.
But, My favorite deer rifle sports a stock 1 screw trigger that breaks at a sharp/crisp 2 1/2 #’s, that I massaged Myself, and I am very pleased with it in that application.
Trigger decision depends on your shooting needs at the time.
Have not looked around. Can you buy a RB trigger these days?
Yes, both models are listed in stock at most places. Big differences in price for the same thing though.Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b
Well I’ve spent more than two decades watching people go nuts over triggers. And the money people spend. It just always seemed insane to me. I can understand it on a dedicated target rifle for sincere competitors. I was never one. Only messed around in pistol competition for a time. And even that was just for fun. I started doing my own triggers seriously, when I started building 1911’s. Because that’s what ya do. There are no really good “drop in” triggers for them. Then I adapted that to all my other firearms. One thing I never understood was people $200-$300 for an AR15 trigger. It’s like everyone was always searching for a super light trigger. Just never seemed right to me on a Semi Auto battle rifle. But oh well.
Sorry for rambling. Just my thoughts. I need to get motivated to do some sand blast etching today.
My Savage 12 runs a RB set extremely light and can go off if I slam the bolt or smack the butt down into the bags with my fist.
my other bench rifle has a Bix &Andy set at 1 oz But will not AD