Alternative lightweight bolt handles?

I've seen plenty of "tactical" bolt handle options for the Savage 10/110 series, but I don't recall seeing any lightweight alternatives. Does anyone know of any? I don't mind the stock bolt handle except that the raised "checkering" is IMO rougher than it needs to be, if it's even needed at all.

I was thinking of something in line with my Tikka bolt handle, with the drilled out hollow area to save weight.

If there isn't anything out there available, then has anyone modified their own to smooth it out and lighten it up?

Thanks

saw this one today while looking through e-bay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-mode...ef10%7Ciid%3A1

I thought, this should be good for a light weight build.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ieYAA...b5/s-l1600.jpg

Of all the places to save weight, I don't get why people try to do it in the bolt handle... A bolt handle needs to be rigid to ensure you can open the bolt regardless of the situation. Get a stuck case on a rainy day one time and snap that sucker off.... All to save 1-2oz of weight....

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

Of all the places to save weight, I don't get why people try to do it in the bolt handle... A bolt handle needs to be rigid to ensure you can open the bolt regardless of the situation. Get a stuck case on a rainy day one time and snap that sucker off.... All to save 1-2oz of weight....

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I don't see how a hollow bolt knob will create that problem. Tikka has been doing this for years with no issues, and this kind of attention to detail is a big reason those rifles are so popular. It's not worth it to a lot of folks, but a lot of folks don't pack rifles into the places I do either (which is why I go to those places. ;) )

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Originally Posted by DesertDug

saw this one today while looking through e-bay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Savage-mode...ef10%7Ciid%3A1

I thought, this should be good for a light weight build.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ieYAA...b5/s-l1600.jpg

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That's a good design, but way too large for a hunting rifle IMO. That sucker would get snagged on all kinds of stuff and never make it down the rifle scabbard on my Eberlestock pack.

You could cut your heavy steel knob off, thread it, and put on a lightweight aluminum knob.

Look around for older 110 bolt handles from the 60's and 70's. Some had a small round ball with a narrow band or knurling around it. The only problem with these is that most of them I've come across are for the earlier (1958-1965) guns where the "ears" or "tabs" on the back of the bolt body were 90-degrees off from what they are on the 1966 and newer guns with the current style bolt assembly.

Attachment 5776

Another style (my favorite) is shaped similar to a Hersey's Kiss. Not sure exactly when these were in production, but I'm guessing they weren't used for to many years because you don't see them often. Here's a few pic's of one I mocked up on my LH Axis just to see how it would feel and if it would clear the scope as I may modify my current Axis bolt handle to mimic this one.

Attachment 5773 Attachment 5774

Attachment 5775

There's also this titanium option if you're a righty, though it's a little long and the knob's too bulky for my tastes - at least for a hunting rifle.

http://lumleyarms.us/index.php?route...&product_id=75

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Originally Posted by celltech

You could cut your heavy steel knob off, thread it, and put on a lightweight aluminum knob.

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If I already had the tap and die, I would. That's not a bad idea at all.

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Originally Posted by J.Baker

There's also this titanium option if you're a righty, though it's a little long and the knob's too bulky for my tastes - at least for a hunting rifle.

http://lumleyarms.us/index.php?route...&product_id=75

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Thanks for that. I really like that handle but for the oversized knob. I may contact them and see if they have a smaller knob option. That would be sweet.

Even if you cut the knob and replace with aluminum, you'll only save 1/2 oz.

They say it is one piece. However there is a way to easily adapt one of their carbon fiber nobs if you have a mill and a lathe.

Here are some options:https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage-Bolt-Handles/

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Originally Posted by Texas10

Here are some options:https://www.tacticalworks.com/Savage-Bolt-Handles/

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Thanks for the link. That's very useful info!

Personally I went the opposite direction.

i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
then lightly debur the cocking ramp
third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

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what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063

third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.

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Jam up Smith.

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Originally Posted by South Prairie jim

Personally I went the opposite direction.

i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
then lightly debur the cocking ramp
third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

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Savage's don't generally have a primary extraction issue unless you were unlucky enough to get one of the bad bolt handles from a batch several years ago where Savage ground down/polished out a casting flaw on the PE ramp and took too much off resulting in no PE. What they do have is a timing issue which is what the bolt lift kit, sear mods and cocking ramp mods all address.

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Originally Posted by South Prairie jim

Personally I went the opposite direction.

i chose a bolt handle from extreme hardcore gear, as I didn't care for the big ugly knob on my model 12 .
i ensured that even though the diameter was reduced I still had the length for leverage. Savage primary extraction design requires a bit more effort than other actions, bolt lift kits are available although you should be aware that the rear bolt baffle slope should NOT be altered"
i recently spent quite a bit of time studying this with a master rifle smith.
what we did was first set the firing pin protrusion to .063
next was to back off the FP spring to set the cocking pin to .080 off the bolt body
then lightly debur the cocking ramp
third was to mill off the top of the cocking sleeve the same amount as the thickness of the Stockade insert with the ball bearing.
lastly re adjust sear contact to ensure no AD on bolt closure the end result is a bolt that manipulates smoothly without upsetting the rifle in the bags allowing a return to battery and remain on target.

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That whole description is a recipe for disaster....

Nope

I didn’t have a primary extraction issue nor did we alter the rear baffle.

it certainly works well, I have no slam fires or AD , I still have a slight burr on the cocking ramp to stay in battery” I have full primary extraction as it’s untouched. My firing pin is almost the same as the factory measurement.
there are several (bolt lift kits available) Nate , PTG, Grimstod, Rayhill
How would you differ ?
i’m curious

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

Jam up Smith.

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And your qualifications are ???

I don't have any. I have tried a lot of things and I will tell you that most of mine make me happy. If yours makes you happy then you win.

If I could find my camera I would show you how to machine your bolt and make whatever size and shape aluminum bolt handle you want. Or if you want to weld a .875" ball bearing on the end of an extended bolt handle, I got that too.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I don't have any. I have tried a lot of things and I will tell you that most of mine make me happy. If yours makes you happy then you win.

If I could find my camera I would show you how to machine your bolt and make whatever size and shape aluminum bolt handle you want. Or if you want to weld a .875" ball bearing on the end of an extended bolt handle, I got that too.

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I got ya,
This particular rifle is Benchrest only and by no means am I suggesting any person modify any firearm.

I liked to see any of your machine work, I’m always eager to learn anything I can about Savage.
j

A right then, we are back to light weight bolt handles!

This as from about 6 years back.

Aluminum handled one in the middle. The top was a prototype for a round ball.


https://sdthumbs.ui-static.net/t/mae...100&height=700This was the approach. Using 1/4 28 threads to join the two.

https://sdthumbs.ui-static.net/t/mae...100&height=700 The aluminum can be dressed easier by putting the big end in a collet. It can also be made in any shape you want and made hollow.

There is so much more but those things have been shared before.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

This as from about 6 years back.

Aluminum handled one in the middle. The top was a prototype for a round ball.


https://sdthumbs.ui-static.net/t/mae...100&height=700This was the approach. Using 1/4 28 threads to join the two.

https://sdthumbs.ui-static.net/t/mae...100&height=700 The aluminum can be dressed easier by putting the big end in a collet. It can also be made in any shape you want and made hollow.

There is so much more but those things have been shared before.

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Nice. I like it.