I am looking at the Vortex Viper 6.5 to 20 50mm for my Savage 110 30-06. General deer rifle but also a coyote hunter? Anyone offer likes or dislikes?
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I am looking at the Vortex Viper 6.5 to 20 50mm for my Savage 110 30-06. General deer rifle but also a coyote hunter? Anyone offer likes or dislikes?
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Its a good scope.
Aside from the scope itself, i personally think it's a large scope for an 06.
How are you shooting? Are they quick pokes? From a stand? Out a pickup window? Just from your initial post I would want something that starts at the 3x range without AO
What distances? What conditions (dense woods, open fields, still-hunting or blind/deer house)? I seldom stretch past 300 yards on coyotes or chucks and deer usually are well inside 200 yards. We can't hunt past sunset and the deer just don't tend to stand out in the middle of fields in daylight hereabouts. A 3-9x40 is plenty while still keeping the (unloaded) all up weight to 7-1/2 lbs. And one that gathers good light in the first golden 20 minutes after sunrise to the last 20 minutes before sunset (Our game wardens have solar charts and stopwatches). Sunset at 4:45:27 PM you don't want to shoot at 4:45:28 PM. Point being - light gathering can be more important than outright magnification. Especially on the overcast days when you didn't see the sun all day, anyway.
Carrying an extra pound may mean your rifle is slung when that once-in-a-lifetime buck hops up an offers you a 30 yard running shot where a carried 3X scope will do it better than a slung 6.5X. My eight-point whitetail last November was 12 paces and a blurry 4X scope setting. I was sitting under a white pine tree and he came up (silently) over my right shoulder and I had to sit motionless until he slowly walked and closed the 80 yards and finally put a tree between us - then it was up and shoot as soon as the hairs lined up. Less than two seconds and I fired just as his chest cleared the blocking tree. Horrible angle - for my twisted back to get the rifle around to my right side. Another point - long range of eye relief for the odd positions and angles you often get in the field.
In my muddy/snowy/rainy fall woods of NY I fire without a rest 50% of the time, and when I do get support it is usually from the trunk of a tree beside me. 20X would be useless to me.
Coyotes & varmints - whole nuther story.
Optimal 9 power max for most '06 hunting rifles. Good glass goes a long way. Viper glass is not "Good Glass"
So this is not a good scope?
I hunt field and with a rest. Deer hunt with a bow 90 % of the time. Coyote hunting more and more.. i had an old bushnell that dryed up and will not work. I want to shoot longer distances and have a range and friend that shoots 300 yards.
I do not think at 6.5 is bad.
Why is the glass not good?
Vortex glass from me looking at about 20 scopes from burris and leopold is better then the nikon. I have a burris 4 to 12. Maybe put that on my 06 and but the strick eagle for my ar.?
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The term "good glass" is highly subjective. Good compared to what? Some around here just have a chip on their shoulder when it comes to Vortex.
I've had a Viper 6.5-20x44 for probably 7-8 years now and haven't had any issues with it. It's been on a number of different rifles in that time, and currently resides on my Browning T-Bolt 22LR. I have no problem seeing my bullet holes at 200 yards with it so I consider the glass sufficient. Is it the best scope out there? Surely not. Is it a good scope that offers a lot for the money? I'd say yes.
I would agree on the so called good glass, bad glass, we hear talked about so much.
For the most part i think the glass part is somewhat over stated, and that most scopes are actually pretty good in that area.
Anyway you just cant pick up any optic and evaluate it by simply looking thru it once, then make a general statement about it.
Side by side on the same day at the same time looking at the same things, is the only way for a fair comparision.
And fact is that on a good day they all look pretty good, and on a really bad day none are any good.
I have found a viper 4x16 44mm that I really like. I have a friend that shoot f class and he suggested that the 6.5x20 might be a little to much just for deer hunting. I like this Viper. I have not had any issues with Vortex and called them to talk about scopes. Very helpful. I am very happy with my Burris. I will get the Viper 4x16. I will not need another scope. Unless i buy another rifle. Thanks for the help
I am not shooting 500 to 1000 yards. 300 might be my max comfort level.
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The thing with higher starting powers, its hard to find the animal in the scope quick at the low setting. Look at the field of view specs on each. I think you will be much happier with a 4 vs the 6.5.
I have a 4 - 16 x 44 Viper HSLR on my 12FV and am quite happy with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by teredpse
Okay have scope.ordered. any help on rings.
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Warne
https://warnescopemounts.com/
(Available at Midway, etc.)
Rings I have bought. And base.
Scooe ordered. Thanks allhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...af742a2786.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...700d8f32e9.jpg
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Good stuff. Those are the very rings I have.
For scope rings on bolt guns, I'll break my choices down for 3 categories. Cheap, Mid-range, high-end:
For cheap I have used the Weaver Tactical rings. They are fairly light weight and will get the job done for an entry level precision rifle. Cost is roughly $32 on SWFA
For slightly higher end, I would get the Nightforce rings. These run around $70 on Midway
For higher end rings, I've used the Vortex Precision rings. These are made by seekins. When I purchased them, they were around $130.
The best rings that I have seen are the ARC M10 rings. The huge advantage these rings have when mounting a scope is that they dont' cause your scope to move when torquing down the scope ring screws. Every scope ring that I have mentioned so far, I have had to meticulously torque the screws on one side, then move to the other, being careful ensure that the scope stays level. The M10 rings have 1 screw that doesn't exert force on the scope so as to cause the scope to rotate in the rings. However, these rings cost $180.
All prices are for scopes with standard 30mm scope tube diameters. Prices will usually go up if you're running a 34mm and up scope tube.
Good mount, but I wouldn't touch vertically split rings with a 10 foot pole.
https://forum.snipershide.com/thread...rings.6539103/
So why would you not use vertical rings?
I have read so much and everyone has something they do not like. If they did not work for you then okay. I will use them have read some good articles on them over the standard rings.
To each thier own.
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I posted a link under my statement above.
I can't get the link to work for me.
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Did not work for me.1Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmracer358
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Follow the instructions that comes with the Warne rings. There is a proper way to install them and a prescribed torque and sequence.
And, by default, if there is a proper way there most likely are one or more improper ways. The link above was to folks having issues with ARs (and as many who were not - did you read the whole thing?). Probably the rings are stronger than the bases and deformed them. ;-) I like steel bases and rings, but I freely admit I do not shoot past 500 yards and do not mechanically adjust windage or elevation once I am zeroed for that load. So I am only using a few MOA in any direction for my scope. I guess the guys shooting out to 2,500m don't care for them.
I also don't swap scopes around and once in place I leave them in place. I found the Warne Fixed rings to be rugged and a clean install for my hunting rifle. Hopefully Teredpse will have the same luck I have.
Look I may never shoot past 500 yards. The range i can shoot 300 is with a friend. And yes several members are F class shooters.
I might and would not shoot a deer at 250 yards. I want to shoot 300 at the range and compete with him. My range max is 150.
I like the base its solid and torque is correct. Qhen I get the rings on with the scope mounted I will follow the requirement from the manufacturer.
Everyone has an opion? Lets all play well in the sand. I was looking for suggestions on good or bad.
If you do not like them fine.
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500 is a good poke, and without doing any checking, even a 7 rem mag, or 300 win, would probably require 8 or 9 minits of correction, depending on load, from a 100 yd zero. Actually at that distance there isn't much difference in many of them.
I put a Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40 BDC AO on my .223 Rem and the same on my .260 Rem. The BDC is not a perfect solution, but it works. Nikon has the Spot-On calculator that gives you the "cheats" for your specific load or ballistics and I glue those figures inside the cover of my Butler Creek ocular cover.
With the .260 Rem and 143 gr ELD-X at 2680 fps mv 619 yards is the tip of the thicker post below the fine crosshairs, 507 yards is center of the lowest ring of four. Wind drift in a 10 mph crosswind is 14" (also on the little cheat paper) at that 507. My property (mostly wooded) is only 2,480 ft deep and I can only get a target so far out the powerline that crosses diagonally in the back. ;-) I can also use the BDC as a rangefinder. A lot of times here in the woods of NY the whitetail deer will be first and last seen in two or three seconds. Not a lot of time. There are happy exceptions where a relaxed deer gives you the chance to set up; but don't count on it. I've taken 47 whitetail and 1 fallow deer and the furthest was 120 yards. The average is about 40 yards.
Woodchucks - as far as you care to try. Coyote - those are my longer shots on that powerline clear-cut, and a nice 250 yard shot out my kitchen to the back corner of our sheep pasture.
Here's an image of my "cheater" card on the lens cover (in yards).
Attachment 4544
And here's a flash image of the Tenebraex anti-glint on the objective . . . obviously doing it's job (equivalent to a 7" sun shade). I feel so tactical. ;-)
Attachment 4545
I like that. Great idea.
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And while I'm at it - those bad 'ol Warne Fixed vertical split rings.
Attachment 4546
Whatever works, works, and obviously your system is working for you with your situation.
But, for sure it took considerable time and ammo to get it all worked out.
I still have and still use a custom multi dot reticle system in several Leupold scopes, that were programed for a specific bullet/load.
They were installed by Premier Reticles back when they were doing that type work with Leupold scopes.
There were no target knobs available, and this was and still is a good option, to a point.
My reticles allow for dead on holds out to 1000 yds, and you can bracket between the dots for in between distances, which is what you are doing also. With that reticle in a 3.5x10 VX3 on a 7x300 wby, i was able to make a first round hit at 700 yds on my only PA bear.
Was any luck involved? Yep, lots of it, but fact still is i got the bear, and sometimes being lucky trumps being good.
However, good as using the reticle is, it isn't as good as dialing the scope, especially when the bullet starts running low on fuel. (velocity)
Admittedly, using a reticle is quicker than dialing, and when hunting that can be helpful, but best be very familiar with using it for it to work well.
Get a scope you like and then take all opinions you read about on gun forums with a grain of salt. It's like asking for a good quality AR15 on The AK Files site. Bad move....
As far as Viper glass, I personally like it. I have a Viper PST 1-4x24 on my AR and a 4-16x44 on my Savage 111. I have NF guys say "Can't you see the fisheye on that scope of yours?" and I just say truthfully "No, I don't". Then I truthfully say "Yours doesn't seem and clearer than mine." Then I just duck, dodge and run... and count my $2,000 I saved on my crappy glass...
The guy that posted the issues teaches a long range shooting class. He states in the thread that a large portion of people that take his class that have vertical split rings have more error when dialing the scope and more broken scopes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpkiller
It is a common problem for people that dial drop and windage that use vertical split rings.
He states that the manufacturer he speaks with calls them "junk AR rings" as a derogatory term, it has nothing to do with scopes on AR's. Context means a lot.
If you don't dial, they are probably fine to use. I dial and expect my scope to perform perfectly, and that is an issue I want to avoid.
For those that can't open the link. Google " vertical split rings snipershide" It is the very first result.
Some say Vortex glass is not "good" glass. I say since Vortex is kind enough to sell their scopes to veterans at a 40% discount their glass is plenty good enough for me. That allows me to buy a $1,000.00 scope for $600 + $10 shipping.
I used every model of warn rings and was happy. I really like the QD rings. I now have ARC10's and Spuhr.