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I have a primer pocket cleaner tool, but dont like the way it works (doesnt get them as clean as I would like). I have seen the brushes but they cost something like ten bucks at my local gunshop :o. Made my own out of some stranded wire and it works ok. It seems that ultrasonic cleaners are the way to go, but not in the cards right now.
Should I try some steel wool?
Whats your process?
I chuck a primer pocket uniformer in to my portable drill and it works great there is enough set back each firing to get the carbon out and you have a good uniform primer pocket to work with Fred
lostart, I've tried most all of the tools over the years and prefer the brushes chucked into variable speed drill of some sort. I've got six each Lg. & Sm. primer pocket brushes I bought about 25 yrs. ago. If you e-mail me your address I'll be happy to send you one of each. In the mean time have you tried a small straight bladed screw driver in the pocket? Keep in mind that the pockets don't need to be "pristine". Particularly @ the junction of the pocket wall and pocket base. The primer actually seats to the anvil "feet" and the cup is a bit shorter thus, doesn't require that the corner be perfectly clean for optimum seating depth. Using a screw driver blade, go lightly you don't want to scratch the walls or pocket base. I'll wait to hear from you.
RCBS motorized case prep station forget what they call it does everything you need, can get all types of case stuff, mil crimp remover, uniformer just to name a few.
RCBS wire brush, in a cordless drill.
I use a primer pocket uniformer, and it cut 90% of the crud out each firring.
I find RCBS pocket uniformer is the fastest once the pocket is already uniformed.
I have got the motorized RCBS unit and it works well.
Another option is to get a deprimer, deprime all your cases then clean them in ultrasonic
machine like from harbor freight.
The cases come out looking like new.
Forget all that elbow grease work. Just get an ultrasonic cleaner. Will clean the cases, inside and out, and especially the primer pockets.
Ultrasonic will get it out but stainless steel media is pretty good too! Uh, it's for those who for those who don't have a spouse to keep them within budget... ::)
+40 year old Lake City pulldown, before and after.
[img width=600 height=398]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/pbcaster45/StainlessSteelMediaResults.jpg[/img]
Tell us more about this stainless steel media, where to get it, maybe post a pic for us.
Michael Grace
I got the media from this site, I followed their instuctions exactly and the stuff works great! Less caliber specific than ceramic media too. The one downside is you have to use a rotary tumbler, a vibratory tumbler won't work. I sometimes shoot blackpowder loads through my Sharps so a rotary tumbler is a just about a must-have. Cleaning blackpowder fouled cartridge cases is much easier with a rotary tumbler and ceramic media.
http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/
The easiest way is to just seat another primer...
BTW - doesn't the stainless steel stuff work harden the brass?
lostart, Brushes & handle were mailed u.s.p.s. tues. 10/17 from Georgia. Pronounced: JAW-JA Tell the dude @ the gun shop you got them @ Walmart for $2.99 complete!! ::) Dale
Awesome! Thanks a lot. ;)
Lol Ill tell him. I actually just took a job there peddling savages.
Looks like that's what I get once my corn cob is gone.
Better plan on a new tumbler... your old vibratory 'tumbler' won't hack it with stainless media and water.
PBCASTER45, Pretty impressive results! How do you dry cases after tumbling? Do the steel rods want to cling to inside of case when wet? When you pour off water does steel tend to follow the flow? Tell us more about the process please. Thanx, Dale
Assuming you use a little bit of liquid detergent in the water, 'clinging' hasn't been a problem at all - unlike some of the ceramic media I've tried.
There are several *long* threads over on Sniper's Hide on this stuff in the Reloading forum, which is where I got into it. Somewhere in there are several videos of how to do it.
The short version of how I do mine is this: I put 100 .308 Win cases + 5 lbs of stainless steel pins in the drum, and fill it with water to within a couple inches of the top. A squirt of liquid dish soap and a sprinkle of Lemishine detergent in the water, and bolt the top on. Tumble for 2-3 hr then unbutton the lid. Take a small magnet and collect any 'strays' from around the inside of the lid and near the lip of the drum, and then sluice off the dirty water (I have a deep utility sink in my basement shop area) while rinsing with fresh hot water. I have two good sized rubbermaid tubs, about 9 qts each. One I fill with clean rinse water, and the other one I dump the media and brass mix into. I sluice a bit more dirty water and suds off that tub, and then sit them side by side on the work bench. I pick the cases up two at a time, shake them out in the water, hold them up and make sure I can see through the flash hole, and drop them in the clean rinse tub. Keep a pair of needle nose pliers handy just in case you have any short bits of media that want to hang out in the primer pocket. They come out very easily, unlike the *@$#! ceramic stuff I tried. Pour off the excess water from the 'dirty' tub, and pour the media back into the tumbler drum for the next batch.
For the cases, I have two of the red MTM 'universal' shell trays that I drilled a 1/8" hole in the bottom of each case hole. Probably not necessary now, but the theory at the time was to allow the holes to drain rather than pool water, and allow a minute amount of air circulation... as I put them in the oven @ the lowest setting (~140F); our oven has a 'pure convection' mode that works just beautimously for drying the cases in about an hour. If the spousal unit won't put up with that, other people have made 'brass dryers' from old ammo boxes with a heat lamp and an old computer fan...
The cases come out brandy-new shiny inside-n-out. Do they shoot better that way? Most likely not enough to matter. Somehow I doubt they shoot any *worse*, and its that much less crud and dust getting drug in and out of my sizing dies and chambers...
YMMV,
Monte
Looks like it does a great job but sounds like way to much work for me.
It could probably be stream-lined a bit... use a rotary media separator instead of by hand, etc.
I will say that it is way less fussy for the amount of 'clean' than ultrasonic cleaning, and in my experience gets the cases *cleaner* and *shinier (the Lemishine really brightens them up!). I started with one of the 'cheapy' US units, then got a small 'name-brand' unit (much more powerful and built like a tank in comparison)... tried wet tumbling with the ovoid-cut stick ceramics (too many stuck pieces) and then the small spherical ceramic (too 'clingy' and near impossible to get all out of the cases, even with dish soap to break up the surface tension). Never got satisfactory results from the pure liquid cleaners (BC Case Prep & Iosso)
My 'bulk' stuff gets corn-cob in the big Dillon tumbler. The 'match' stuff gets a twist on the neck with #0000 steel wool, and a brush in the neck. Every two to three firings I anneal them, and clean them with the wet stainless media.
MEMILANUK, Very interesting info. Have dried cases in my convexion oven also but ONLY when wife wasn't home. :D Always nice to have an understanding wife! You've got my interest up. I sure appreciate you taking the time to explain the process. LOSTARTS original post has definitely gotten "legs". Have you had any feed- back on the "pointy" stnls. steel rod type media. Anyone?
Thats good info on the stainless stuff. Very interesting.
Neck tension has also had me wondering as of late. Anybody got some good links on process, benefits and the sort?
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubb...45#Post1513345
Have fun wading thru all the B.S.... and all the folks who don't know how to save a Watched Topic so their sole contribution to the thread is 'Tag'... ::)
Gotcha, I dry them base up in a cake rack cooler I got from Wal-Mart. I use a pre-heated 200 degree oven, just turn it off when you put the cases inside. I'll post a pic when my photobucket account starts working again...
Now it's working.
[img width=600 height=417]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc265/pbcaster45/PBsSecretMethod.jpg[/img]
Not quite sure what you're referring to here? I know people have been using stainless steel 'punchings' (no idea what actual size/shape those were) for years, and I've heard of others using steel BBs. I think in Nancy Gallagher's book Mid Tompkins wrote about using stainless media, and I think he was either using the 'punchings' or a jeweller's mix. The jeweller's mix stuff is probably 'best', but its gawd-awful expensive to match. This stuff I'm using is actually from a guy that has a set up for making wire bits for other stuff, and he had a big batch that was in a size that wasn't commonly used any more - it just happened to be about the right size (.041" dia.) to pass through even a PPC sized flash hole with ease, and he was able to cut it to a length that worked good in most brass cases - not long enough to jam in the neck of a .308 or even a .223 Rem, but just long enough it shouldn't stick in a primer pocket.Quote:
Originally Posted by gotcha
As I mentioned... this batch was getting rid of some remnant material, and as it turned out I got some that were a smidge shorter - just enough to stick in a large primer pocket. They come out easily, and I'd expect newer batches to not have that problem.