Is there any reason a bench vise with wood bushing shouldn't work as well or better than one of the cheaper barrel vises?
I'm currently using the giant action wrench and keep marking up my actions.
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Is there any reason a bench vise with wood bushing shouldn't work as well or better than one of the cheaper barrel vises?
I'm currently using the giant action wrench and keep marking up my actions.
I don't see a problem with it.
Put a layer of electrical tape in your action wrench to protect your actions.
That's what I do and haven't marked an action yet.
Why couldn't you just pinch the barrel between a door and the frame and have the little wife lean against it?
No where near enough to get a barrel loose.
OP do yourself a favor spend $60 bucks and get a viper or Davidson barrel vise.
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Take a block of oak and drill a hole in it that fits your barrel. Then split it down the middle. Put it in a standard bench vice and clamp away. Should work just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wide Glide
Personally I use this one
http://www.pmatool.com/barrel-vise-by-viper/
I don't bother to use an action wrench or a barrel vice anymore. First time trying to brake things loose, maybe. After that, they come apart real easy. Slide the nut wrench up the barrel then pad it (the barrel) with a couple rags on vice jaws. SMACK the nut wrench with as steel hammer to brake it loose. It's the SHOCK of steel on steel that brakes it loose. Spin the barrel out and do what you had planned. I have a Wheeler action wrench and wood barrel blocks but don't use them anymore. The first time I used the action wrench, I had to really tighten it to keep the action from turning. Tight enough that the barrel wouldn't turn after the nut was loose. Loosened the action wrench and the barrel spun right out. That was the last time I used it!! Like I mentioned, the first time could be a problem braking things loose but after that, don't need anything special. And it doesn't take a GORILLA to tighten things up after replacing barrels either. Snug is good and after maybe 10 or 12 barrel swaps, never had anything come loose. Even loose enough that a slight tap on the wrench will brake the nut loose so I can swap barrels at the range when I'am working up loads.
I figured the opposite. I thought a bench vise would be capable of clamping much tighter than a barrel vise and have more uses. I don't have either atm so either way I'm spending money. Factory tight barrels are the issue. I don't know how hard the ones I put on would be to remove since I'm afraid that any load workup I had done would be wasted as soon as I twist the barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by LongRange
i will tell you this...when i change the barrel the first time on my 300wm i did the exact thing your thinking of...2" thick oak block drilled a hole 3/4" smaller than the barrel cut the block in half and put it in a 10" bench vise tightened the vise with a 24" cheater bar...two wackes with a BFH and the barrel spun in the blocks without ever coming loose...i bought a davidson vise and 2 wacks with the same BFH and the nut popped loose...ive change 7 factory barrels and 9-10 after market barrels and never had one slip.
I'm sold just need to decide between the Davidson and viper
they are the same basically...the viper has some springs on the bolts that hold the clamping plate up which is nice but ive never seen one in person...the davidson has proven itself to me...either one you buy you just wrap and index card around the barrel and clamp it down..even with cerakoted barrels it dont leave marks...you will see when you get it why they work so well.
Viper works fine as well.... for larger barrels I just use a piece of cardboard above & below for clamping down onto. For smaller barrels, like AR's, I made myself a set of wood chocks.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...pscu7k6lw9.jpg
I use the Wheeler Engineering Barrel Vise from midway and it works fine. The real question is what quality is the bench vise? I have a 8" machinist vise that would do the job all day long but my 6" harbor freight one would probably not. As previously posted I also only pull out the barrel vise for initial removal. After that It gets knocked on and off with a barrel wrench and a hammer.
Wheeler action vise, nut wrench and a hammer, I've never had a problem. Tighten that wrench up and it won't scar your action. You don't need the barrel to turn anyways until the jam nut is lose. When you knock the nut loose, take the wheeler off and unscrew the barrel with your hands.
^^ I do it this way also. Don't forget to reverse the process to put barrel back on.
What froggy said. Thread barrel in, set headspace, tighten action wrench, tighten jam nut with a hammer and wrench
A nice feature of the Northland Shooter Supply action wrench is that it has a 1/4-28 bolt that screws into the action to prevent the kind of slipping mentioned. That way you don't end up clamping the action so tight it binds the barrel.
I use a two foot cheater bar on the nut wrench, and a dead blow hammer. Unlike Lizzy Borden, a couple of whacks is all it takes.
Yep, one layer of spark chaser tape is all ya need.Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrinder
Barrel vise, hammers, cheater bars? Naw..don't use'm
http://oi60.tinypic.com/20kfapu.jpg
I only remember one when I had to to use most of my 245#s to undo Igor's handy work, the others gave up the ghost with a lot less.
Swaps?
http://oi64.tinypic.com/mbsmcg.jpg http://oi64.tinypic.com/bfh0s5.jpg
http://oi63.tinypic.com/2qlal3c.jpg
I've shot as many as four barrels (three swaps) at the range,the last two on the carpeted floor of my man cave. Why fiddle and fart around removing a scope?:p
Bill
I have and like the NSS setup. I haven't had to go that far, breaker bar and put my 235 lbs on it and good. Still pretty close with all the leverage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
No smacking though.
Bill Pa has quite the setup, so much for a vice.
Not sure I want to risk thunking a scope around at the range but if its got a warranty (grin) and you have extras scopes ..........
I am curious. Been looking at those rear entry action wrenches for my switchbarrel. Can't seem to find the right one for a savage action.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillPa
Which one do you use?
I was not impressed with the viper. After changing about three barrels out the springs were shot and it seemed no matter how much I tightened it up the barrel would still spin and cause it to get all marked up. I have since switched to the Brownells barrel vice and haven't had a problem changing barrels out on anything. Savages, Remingtons, Winchesters and even old military mausers come off with ease.
I fabricated my own and it has yet to fail me. Used it on Japanese Arisakas and Mosins plus numerous others.
Barrel vise
Action wrench
Is there a video of these vises in action. Trying to visualize how these work but guess I'm not getting it.
Agree with LR's suggestions.
[IMG]http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshrfr5lu2.jpg[/IMG]
Something's very wrong with that picture. :)
???Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrinder
Like the barrel being extended way too far....Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrinder
Perhaps, I guess I was lucky barrel wasn't bent:eyebrows:.Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny_V
[IMG]http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/a...psyqsjjwb9.jpg[/IMG]
Come on guys....the bench is covered in Remington parts.
I see a Remage barrel and nut. Remington action with, it looks like a Timney trigger. Remington stainless jewelled bolt.
No Savage parts to be seen.
Yep, sad, very sad.