Concentricity - how big of a difference?

Since I'm a bit new to the board - I'll start with a bit of explanation. I've reloaded ammo for decades, don't shoot competitively, shoot for hobby at the range and hunting. Through those decades I've done extensive load workup with components - but I've never considered myself or my procedures to be at an advanced level.

Which brings me to the explanation - current efforts are to learn some of the finer details of reloading, and what improvements can I make by adding steps that I've previously not performed. In that process - I'm just starting the process of neck turning, haven't really gotten a firm plan for neck tension, getting the tools to measure seating depth off the ogive instead of the meplat, and looking into concentricity of loaded rounds.

I just purchased the Hornady bullet concentricity gauge, and took some of my loaded rounds to measure runout. Not sure if I'm surprised, but measurements on my loaded rounds are showing a level of error that I'm taking some steps to correct.

I grabbed some of my 22-250 handloads, and I get .010-.012 run out pretty consistently, up to .015-.016 on the worst runout. Nothing better than .009. I'm able to adjust the runout down to .001-.002 with Hornady tool.

My question is - how big of a difference does this level of runout make on a target? Has anyone ever tested loaded rounds to compare the grouping potential? Is this level of "not precise" in my reloads .5MOA, more, less?

I know, I could go to the range and fire them to find out myself, problem is I rebarrelled my 22-250 to a 250AI so I don't have the gun to shoot for the results. Plus, it's raining at the moment, so my shooting time is on the forum. I was just working with these cartridges because I am going to pull the bullets and resize the brass for the 250AI. A replacement 22-250 is off into the future.

Any comments or suggestions on reloading for accuracy for me that has reloaded extensively, but not become familiar with advanced techniques are welcome. Through reading these forums and other articles I am tooling up and looking into things like neck turning, bullet concentricity, and I intend to get either some Lee Collet Dies or bushing dies to see if I can tighten up groups, and maybe accomplish better accuracy for longer distance shooting. Is this a good area for me to move my reloading skills into a more advanced level? Or should I focus on something else?

From what I have seen in my own reloads is that bullet concenricity will affect bullet flight at longer ranges say 400 to infinity, at 100 yrds will not affect bullet flight

First off dont go pulling any bullets on your existing 22 250s. Just shoot them in the new chamber and their good to go.
Then resize with your new ai dies. Neck turning as a rule isnt necessary in factory chambers. Fact is you can ruin brass
by turning them for factory chambers if your not very carefull. As for your loading process, if (your) satisfied with how your guns shoot,
then behappy with the way you currently load. If you are or intend becoming a serious competetive shooter, then each thing you do
could affect your scores. But even then, the order of priorities would be a gun worthy of the extra effort spent loading.
If you and your guns are capable of inch or better groups consistantly, then your good to go even for long range shooting.
That would equal out to about 10 inches at 1000. Fact is most guys here including me cant shoot that good on a consistant basis.

One thing you could check by pulling a half dozen bullets is to see if they peeled going in the case or are there scratches all over the pulled ones. After you do that I can give you some more advice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jonbearman

One thing you could check by pulling a half dozen bullets is to see if they peeled going in the case or are there scratches all over the pulled ones. After you do that I can give you some more advice.

---

Bullets are not scratched on these, but I'd rather you started with peeled/scratched bullets, as I've had that before on trimmed brass. There's a good chance the bullets I pulled were loaded in new brass, I used a limited number of brass working up a load, then loaded the all brass I had.

yobuck- part of what your saying is why I'm working with the 250AI to see what I can do for accuracy. The gun is a varmit contour Shilen barrel, where most of my guns have sporter weight factory barrels. I also hear you on the shooter being able to measure up. I'll say in the past, when I've been doing a lot of shooting, I know I get to the point of being capable, mostly through practice and repition. I am going to meet with a competitive shooter to discuss the finer points of shooting technique - I've never taught those things by another - so looking forward to that.

Shoot a .22 cal bullet in a .257 bore? I had not planned on that.

My suggestion is to buy a forster BR full length die(send it in to have the neck honed to your desired neck tension)a wilson hand die and an arbor press then you wont need to worry about concentricity.IMHO...and personal experience...the Hornady concentricity gauge will cause you more issues than you already have because as your chacing and adjusting run out your tweaking the necks and causing inconsistent neck tensions which cause fliers and higher extreme spreads especially if your adjusting up to .016 of run out. I have a hornady concentricity gauge that hasnt been used in about 4yrs...i talked to several old BR guys and most all said the same thing"buy better dies"! And one told me"you dont shoot BR dont worry about run out"he also told me to load 10 rounds exactly the same and adjust run out on 5 and shoot all 10 over a chrony....the 5 adjusted had a 35fps spread the 5 not adjusted had a 20fps spread.
Another suguestion is to do everything you can to eliminate cartage inconsistencies, do everything EXACTLY the same every time you load and most of all work on your trigger pull and position behind your riffle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Burr

Bullets are not scratched on these, but I'd rather you started with peeled/scratched bullets, as I've had that before on trimmed brass. There's a good chance the bullets I pulled were loaded in new brass, I used a limited number of brass working up a load, then loaded the all brass I had.

yobuck- part of what your saying is why I'm working with the 250AI to see what I can do for accuracy. The gun is a varmit contour Shilen barrel, where most of my guns have sporter weight factory barrels. I also hear you on the shooter being able to measure up. I'll say in the past, when I've been doing a lot of shooting, I know I get to the point of being capable, mostly through practice and repition. I am going to meet with a competitive shooter to discuss the finer points of shooting technique - I've never taught those things by another - so looking forward to that.

Shoot a .22 cal bullet in a .257 bore? I had not planned on that.

---

My guess is that yobuck is under the impression your new caliber is 22-250AI. I'm a little confused also, since you mention 250AI and .257 bore in the above post. What is the caliber of the Shilen barrel?

Interesting read, thanks for posting.

All 3 are from the same parent cartridge, 250 savage so they should chamber and interchange only to fire form. The bullet being undersized shoul just rattle down the bore and form a perfect 250AI cartridge. The bullet being under sized wont stabilize but who cares as you need a perfectly formed case and you aren't shooting a group.

FWIW, I have two concentricity gauges, a Sinclair and the Hornady mentioned above. Almost without fail, they give very different readings. A round that has less than .001 on one might have .005 on the other. This is caused by the fact that the two gauges use different points of reference when spinning the case. The Hornady uses the case head on one end and the bullet tip on the other to support the round, with the indicator placed between the two points. I've found that this tends to give lower readings. The Sinclair supports the case on two non-rotating bearings that you position under the body of the case. The indicator is then positioned out over the bullet or the neck. This method tends to give higher indicated runout readings. Most strangely, as I stated before, a round that is straight on one gauge may be significantly off on the other. I agree with LongRange that excessive "straightening" is probably counterproductive. If the round is in really bad shape from the outset, pushing really hard on the neck is not going to solve anything.
Also, I sort my rounds for concentricity and mark the best ones and place them in the front row of the fifty-round ammo box. The funky ones go to the back of the box. Here's another weird thing- on many occasions I've shot just as good groups with the "banana" rounds as I have with the straight ones. So go figure. I can't explain it.
None of the short-range benchrest guys I've talked to- and admittedly that's only a few- actually make any attempt to measure runout. They all seem to believe that their rounds are inherently perfect due to their dies/arbor presses. Maybe. I'd love to actually measure a few of theirs just to see. Never had any offers to actually measure though.

Double post

Yep, my bad, didnt pick up on the 250 ai and assumed 22 250.
Mind you i have the runout gauge and also neck turning tools.
But i seem to be limited with my own ability to the point it dosent matter.
I simply turn the case a couple times during the seating process and it works for me.
And as long as i hit most of the rocks i shoot at im happy even if its not on the first shot.
Ive known a few long range target shooters who simply mark the head of the case at
the high spot for runout. Then single feed each round into the gun with the mark alligned
the same way. They seem to think consistancy is important more so than perfect.
Thats fine for casual shooting, but when the hearts pumping faster those type things are hard to remember.

Mike21 - 250AI is the 250-3000 Savage Ackley Improved, 40 deg shoulder.

I intend to expand the necks on 22-250 cases to make brass for the 250AI. I think I'll still pull the bullets instead of "rattle" them down a new custom barrel to resize the brass.

So, I'm gathering from the posts - while the Hornady tool is measuring something - if I intend to fix it - my best method is to prevent the issue from happening in the first place by using different/better forming and seating dies - which gives me a direction to go. With Forster - is their method to take the measurements from the reamer that was used to make my barrel, or shoot/reload a couple cases 3X and send the formed cases in to make the resizing die? Or, do the obvious, call Forster and ask them, lol...

Same approach as LongRange suggests - use the gauge to measure, identify current status, find a way to prevent it from happening, identify if it is an issue at all, and once "fixed" the runout gauge becomes a tool that doesn't get used.

As many have stated, I'm not sure what difference I'll be finding, but with all the reloading I do, I don't mind trying the different things and finding out from my own experience how much of a difference these things make. Compared to my other hobbies, reloading is rather thrifty. Putting gas in my 60 gallon boat tank is more than a concentricity gauge and custom dies. So I know it may not be a cost effective endeavor for a non-competitor - rather an interesting, educational one that builds on the handloading experience I have enjoyed over the years.

you CAN have custom dies made but at about $200 bucks per die...forster is not making custom dies right now as far as i know but you may want to call them and check.
the wilson hand die can be sent in to wilson with a few fired cases and they will hone it to match your chamber or fired cases.

now i have not been loading as a lot of you guys(almost 10yrs)but i can tell you i started by just shooting until the brass was hard to chamber then id bump the shoulders with a redding body die and carry on...never tumbled,lightly cleaned primer pockets and necks. as i got more into it and searching for long range accuracy and most of all consistency things changed and i can tell you first hand that the more detail you give to your reloading the more accurate and consistent your loads will be i dont care what anyone says its a fact.
now you can spend ENDLESS money chasing accuracy but the 3 most important factors in accuracy(IMHO)are first...the shooter...second the riffle and third the hand loads..so if you take as many variables out of your ammo and riffle as you can then that leaves one thing the shooter. up until about 5yrs ago loading was fun now its a part time job LOL!!
like i said buy a forster full length die send it in and have the neck honed to your desired neck tension and set it up to bump the shoulders back .001-.002 and use it EVERY time you fire your brass...get a wilson hand die and an arbor press and dont worry about concentricity as your not going to load it any straighter unless you spend some serious coin on dies...trim your necks EVERY time and do yourself a favor and get a stainless steel tumbler and tumble your brass every time as well. and last if you dont now learn how to anneal your brass...it will help when looking for low ES's and consistency. as far as turning necks goes...i do it but just to clean the necks up as i dont have a tight neck chamber and also to take that variable out.

like i said the accuracy hole is deep how far in you want to venture is up to you LOL.

One thing to remember if you do as Longrange says and get a wilson and have it honed for neck tension is to get that consistent neck tension you have to turn your necks to a uniform thickness. Different thickness necks means different amounts of neck tension unless you are using an expander button and if so why spend the money to get a die honed out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Burr

- while the Hornady tool is measuring something

---

That "something" is TIR, "Total Indicated Runout". Actual off center RO is 1/2 TIR. For instance, if TIR is .010" the off center is .005".

By rights the tool should use two indicators, one positioned at the neck of the case and one near the tip. A bullet could be running true in the middle but be out on both ends in opposite directions pivoting on the middle like a seesaw.:p

Bill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by earl39

One thing to remember if you do as Longrange says and get a wilson and have it honed for neck tension is to get that consistent neck tension you have to turn your necks to a uniform thickness. Different thickness necks means different amounts of neck tension unless you are using an expander button and if so why spend the money to get a die honed out.

---

? I guess an old guy who dosent read very well cant be expected to understand very well either.
Anyway Burr whats your favorite way to catch walleyes?

One old guy to another yobuck, does that mean i didn't understand something or you didn't understand what i said?

The gauge I use references off the case body and indicates a little bit back from the bullet tip,, in theory that is what you want. When I started chasing my run out issues I found out that it was all introduced at the bullet seating process . I upgraded my seating die to the Redding competition seater die and runout improved big time,and so did my competition scores.Now I don't even bother checking runout . When a guy straightens a round he changes neck tension . .005 or less is good enough for me to be quite competitive.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by earl39

One thing to remember if you do as Longrange says and get a wilson and have it honed for neck tension is to get that consistent neck tension you have to turn your necks to a uniform thickness. Different thickness necks means different amounts of neck tension unless you are using an expander button and if so why spend the money to get a die honed out.

---

You can have the wilson hand die...which is a seater die im referring to... honed to fit your chamber size by sending in fired cases...the forster FL die can be sent in to have the neck honed to your dimensions so that your not over working the necks when sizing...i just sent my new forster FL die in to have the neck opened up to .285 and have 3 under sized expander balls made so that i can vary neck tension.
If he FL resizes every time there is no need to hone the wilson hand die.... if only neck sizing the wilson will need to be opened up a bit. I just bought the forster FL die to eliminate 2 steps in my reloading.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DanSavage

The gauge I use references off the case body and indicates a little bit back from the bullet tip,, in theory that is what you want. When I started chasing my run out issues I found out that it was all introduced at the bullet seating process . I upgraded my seating die to the Redding competition seater die and runout improved big time,and so did my competition scores.Now I don't even bother checking runout . When a guy straightens a round he changes neck tension . .005 or less is good enough for me to be quite competitive.

---

Ive owned redding dies since day one of my reloading and really like them but after using the wilson and an arbor press i rarely use the reddings anymore and when i get my forster FL die back ill most likely put my redding dies up for sale.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yobuck

? I guess an old guy who dosent read very well cant be expected to understand very well either.
Anyway Burr whats your favorite way to catch walleyes?

---

lol, do I have to pick just one? One hint, the other site I frequent is crank-bait-o-holics anon...

But there is something special about pulling a 12 lb eye through 52 inches of ice when it's -18, and finessing it to get it turned up the 10" hole in the ice. Anything big enough that can't turn around once it's headed up the hole is fun - on a Live Target, Flutter Spoon, Shimmy Spoon, or the soon to be released Kubar. Yeah, design and make lures too.

With Walleye, I like to figure out what gets them to go on any given day, then I'm done. It's the challenge of all the presentations, and when to use them. I run a few tournaments, somebody always finds a way to get them to go, that's the interesting part.

Need to learn a little more about these arbor presses. I've seen them before, and never really put much thought into them since they appear so fragile in comparison to the bench mounted rockchucker. I always thought they were just for handloading at the range, not for precision. Off to youtube I go.

Earl, Yes on the neck turning. That's what I was thinking too. While I don't fully understand what exactly is the correct neck tension, I've already thought it through and decided I can never get consistent neck tension unless the necks are turned to the "same" thickness all the way around. Plus a goat gun is on the way with a "tight" neck chamber, that has to be turned - no factory ammo. So I am getting a head start on the neck turning learning curve on brass a little less expensive than the 300WM. Gun builder is going to provide the dies I need, I should find out what he's providing and consider going the same route for the 250AI.

Anyway - I recently got the K&M neck turning tools - anyone else less than satisfied with the K&M cartridge holder? It seems like the K&M cartridge holder does not hold the cartridge true - it wabbles when I chuck it up - if it doesn't turn the cartridge in a straight line, how would I get consistent thickness in the neck trimmer? I picked up a Sinclair cartridge holder to try out, but I haven't chucked it up yet. Here's what I got to try out. http://www.brownells.com/reloading/c...prod33962.aspx Good holder?

I like the tip on turning the brass 180 degrees when seating the bullet, and reseating. Easy to try but I've never done that before. I've sorted through enough 22-250 loads, that I can't shoot anyway because I don't have a 22-250 anymore. Time to put them away. As I worked my way through the 22-250 - they were consistently .010-.012 in run out. Only a couple worse, and none better in a box of 100. If anything, I guess my procedures loading the 22-250 were consistent. 98% were the same .010-.012 run out.

I'm going to grab some of the .270 rounds I made. I've got that gun shooting really well as it is. I'll measure the run out, and try to set 4 different groups of 5 aside. 1 group that I straighten to .002 or less. 1 group that's .005 or less without any adjustments, and two set's of 5 that are as bad as they get - 1 I'll put in the chamber facing the same way every time, and one I'll load randomly - go shoot them and see if I'm consistent enough to detect any difference in grouping, and chrono the groups to measure SD. The .270 is a factory gun with a whip barrel, so might be hard to get meaningful results.

Not a good day to shoot today either. The rain gave way to.... snow. I'll wait for it to warm up a bit.

Turned with the same tools you have...i doubt the sinclair will be any better...ive heard the 21st century case holder is nice.


http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/.../photo2-57.jpg

[QUOTE=Burr;315900]lol, do I have to pick just one? One hint, the other site I frequent is crank-bait-o-holics anon...

But there is something special about pulling a 12 lb eye through 52 inches of ice when it's -18, and finessing it to get it turned up the 10" hole in the ice. Anything big enough that can't turn around once it's headed up the hole is fun - on a Live Target, Flutter Spoon, Shimmy Spoon, or the soon to be released Kubar. Yeah, design and make lures too.

With Walleye, I like to figure out what gets them to go on any given day, then I'm done. It's the challenge of all the presentations, and when to use them. I run a few tournaments, somebody always finds a way to get them to go, that's the interesting part.

Earl, Yes on the neck turning. That's what I was thinking too. While I don't fully understand what exactly is the correct neck tension, I've already thought it through and decided I can never get consistent neck tension unless the necks are turned to the "same" thickness all the way around.


Burr your gonna have to pick just one. What (one) would you not even consider being without?
As for neck tension, certainly im not opposed to turning necks when the chamber requires it.
But i also feel it really isnt necessary for most of us who are using guns not requiring it.
For shooters who load and shoot the ammo at a match the same day they load it is one thing.
First off they will usually have carefully selected a few very uniform cases which they use in the match.
They will also have sorted their bullets, touched up the tips, etc etc.
But for those of us who load up enough to last for awhile for fun shooting and hunting is quite another.
Try pulling some bullets on cases that have been loaded for awhile and see what happens.
So neck tension will change radicly as ammo sits around. IMHO annealing could have as much
affect as turning the necks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LongRange

Ive owned redding dies since day one of my reloading and really like them but after using the wilson and an arbor press i rarely use the reddings anymore and when i get my forster FL die back ill most likely put my redding dies up for sale.

---

If I had to do my reloading kit all over I would have went with the Wilson die's and arbor press for sure. They are definitely in my future when coin permits,,, but I need more bullets,,another high power scope,,you guys know how it goes.Lol My shooting mentor only uses wilson and arbor press,,I was amazed when I saw how they work,,there simply the best.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DanSavage

If I had to do my reloading kit all over I would have went with the Wilson die's and arbor press for sure. They are definitely in my future when coin permits,,, but I need more bullets,,another high power scope,,you guys know how it goes.Lol My shooting mentor only uses wilson and arbor press,,I was amazed when I saw how they work,,there simply the best.

---

Like me...more IN MIND projects then IN POCKET MONEY!

I have found that concentricity problems are more likely to be in the brass itself, not in the dies. If a case has .0 runout coming out of the sizer die, you cant fault the die. I tried many seater dies with equal luck, and when it was bad, it was always traced back to the brass being the culprit. When seating a bullet, it will always move to the weak side of the neck. Whether it is thicker on one side or just stiffer, it will always move to the weak side. Another cause is the case mouth being slightly out of square, tipping the bullet as it seats. It also helps to use a low angle chamfer on the mouth to reduce the starting pressure.

The only thing I don't like about fixed bearings on the Sinclair and the like is it can eccentuate the runout with the cartridge body not springing back exactly the same so there are arguments to both. I agree with bill having 2 indicators. Personally using quality dies and a Wilson to seat I don't even check them as they can shoot in the zero's with my 6ppc.

Long range, you cut into that shoulder at the wrong angle possibly weakening it. If you don't have a pma tool with the correct shoulder angle you should only cut to the shoulder radius and as you fire it that way it will blend nicely.

YoBuck - in the next couple of days I'll tackle the picture posting and give a walleye lure (or two). The best ones are the lures hanging off the chin of a 30" walleye, right?

But I do have a question - getting back to my 250AI. Admittedly not a very standard cartridge I selected, but one I've always wanted to try, and since it was time to rebarrel I thought it would also be a good time to get one. Good selection or not - that's the one cartridge I'm going to do some work on.

As suggested - I did some research on reloading tooling, procedures others have suggested above. I'm thinking LE Wilson Hand Dies - for a 250 Savage Ackley Improved. A Wilson bushing die for 250AI would be a custom die - I could purchase the blank, take it to my gunsmith that reamed my chamber, and ream a die.

But IF the 22-250 AI Wilson die with different bushing works - it's a stock die. Since the Wilson Hand Dies are bushing dies - will a 22-250 Ackley improved Wilson Hand Die work with the appropriate bushing for the .257 bore?

Second question - as I contemplate the arbor press. I don't need the arbor press to be portable (all reloading will take place in my reloading room) - any reason why I can't use my bench top drill press as an arbor press? They make these hand dies work with a hammer, I would think the drill press, chucked up with a push bar would work.

I've got a plan to experiment with another die too - which will have to be a custom die made from my fired brass. But that's down the road, if at all. More on that later.

Couple things I've learned reloading-

1- quality brass will get you tighter groups than neck turning. This is your foundation to an accurate round. That said I've had good luck with Winchester more so than Hornady or federal on the cheaper end. If you do turn the necks, only take a portion of the brass "the high spots", not removing 100 of the surface area on the neck. Like 60-70% should be shinny when finished

2- lee collet dies used properly will yield runout that you pay dearly for with other brands. I run my match 308 and 260 on lee collet dies and 90% of rounds have .002 or less runout measured with a Hollands concentricity gauge. None over .004.

3- Annealing can play a significant factor in how consistent your rounds are.

I have shot rounds with .006 runout and rounds with .001 runout against each other- made no difference in a factory barrel and minor difference in custom barrel.

Also shot annealed rounds against non annealed rounds in a custom barrel. At 300 yards (5shots) the annealed shot a group almost half the size on the non annealed. Annealed also showed a spread of 20 fps vs non annealed with a spread of 37 fps- same loads other than the annealing

[QUOTE=Burr;316224]YoBuck - in the next couple of days I'll tackle the picture posting and give a walleye lure (or two). The best ones are the lures hanging off the chin of a 30" walleye, right?

NO,i dont think that is right, but it does sell lures.
5 years ago, i didnt know a single person who annealed their cases.
Yet several of my friends have been record holders at Williamsport. The only guy
to have ever to this day won the best agregate award for all matches in a single year 2 times, never annealed his cases.
Which at least in my opinion prooves we just cant buy our way.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jonbearman

Long range, you cut into that shoulder at the wrong angle possibly weakening it. If you don't have a pma tool with the correct shoulder angle you should only cut to the shoulder radius and as you fire it that way it will blend nicely.

---

That case was actually not cut into the shoulder enough as those cases formed doughnuts...the reason it looks funny is because the cutter barely touched the shoulder so the angle in the cutter didnt blend the junction...If you dont cut into the shoulder enough you get doughnuts to much and you blow the necks off as im sure you know. That case was strong as it shot a 140g hornady at 3075fps....the neck was fine but the primer pocket wasnt happy lol.

yobuck.....i bet jim richards anneals his brass.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...ory-be-amazed/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hafejd30

Couple things I've learned reloading-

1- quality brass will get you tighter groups than neck turning. This is your foundation to an accurate round. That said I've had good luck with Winchester more so than Hornady or federal on the cheaper end. If you do turn the necks, only take a portion of the brass "the high spots", not removing 100 of the surface area on the neck. Like 60-70% should be shinny when finished

2- lee collet dies used properly will yield runout that you pay dearly for with other brands. I run my match 308 and 260 on lee collet dies and 90% of rounds have .002 or less runout measured with a Hollands concentricity gauge. None over .004.

3- Annealing can play a significant factor in how consistent your rounds are.

I have shot rounds with .006 runout and rounds with .001 runout against each other- made no difference in a factory barrel and minor difference in custom barrel.

Also shot annealed rounds against non annealed rounds in a custom barrel. At 300 yards (5shots) the annealed shot a group almost half the size on the non annealed. Annealed also showed a spread of 20 fps vs non annealed with a spread of 37 fps- same loads other than the annealing

---

I'm pretty much on board with what you're stating. Last week I had to work out of town, the good part was there's a pretty well stocked reloading store that I visit when I work there. While $111 is a healthy amount to pay for brass, I didn't have to pay for shipping since I was there to take it home. With the bonus being Lapua brass - which is annealed, and reported to be rather consistent neck thickness , so turning may be minimized. So I'm not pulling bullets in my 22-250 loaded rounds to reload anymore.

The other option I mentioned above that I had a plan to try - is the LCD. I'll send a few formed cases, and it's still not that expensive at the website rates to have a custom LCD set made, which will also provide me with another bullet seating option to try.

I don't usually buy things like dies 3 times for the same cartridge - but I want to try a few different things and compare/evaluate the results. I realize almost none of these things will make a difference on minute of deer inside 300 yards. But I want to explore the longer distances and know I have to tighten things up to have consistency at longer distances. So I'm going to give it a whirl and try some things, compare the results. INCLUDING the standard off the shelf Redding die.

I've always stayed away from digital, electronic tools for reloading when I have a mechanical option. It's that fear of reaching for a tool to find out the battery deteriorated and ruined the tool. So I have mostly mechanical tools. Sorting brass is, well, interesting with beam equipment....

How frequent is the annealing process? 4-5 reloads and time to anneal again?

I use lapua brass as well. I anneal every load. I have a bench source annealer so it's simple to use. Every couple would probably be fine tho. Know what your doing. There's a fine line between doing nothing and frying case necks. Tempilaq works well for this.

i shoot lapua brass as well and anneal every second firing...like hafejd said get some Tempilaq 750 so you know your getting the right heat.

also $111 bucks isnt a bad price...look at it this way...if you load that 20 times its actually only 5.5 cents each and if you take care of that brass you will be able to get more out of it then that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LongRange

yobuck.....i bet jim richards anneals his brass.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...ory-be-amazed/

---

Well today it seems everybody does including me. I have no doubt my brass will last a little longer due to that but i do doubt
im a noticably better shooter due to it.
To me in my own strange way of evaluating things there is really only 1 way of making very good chicken soup.
So i choose not to make chicken soup. Im willing to settle for the best canned variety.
I chose chicken specificly so as not to have any over the hill bull involved. lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yobuck

Well today it seems everybody does including me. I have no doubt my brass will last a little longer due to that but i do doubt
im a noticably better shooter due to it.
To me in my own strange way of evaluating things there is really only 1 way of making very good chicken soup.
So i choose not to make chicken soup. Im willing to settle for the best canned variety.
I chose chicken specificly so as not to have any over the hill bull involved. lol

---

its a good thing you only eat chicken now because your full of bull LMAO!!!

all the prep work i do dont make me a better shooter(as youve seen by my group pics)but it does take case issues out of the equation so that when i shoot a low score i cant blame my ammo. as far as annealing what ive found is that with annealed brass i get .000.5 spring back when sizing which gives me more consistent neck tension and lower ES's...after 2 firings(third time loading)if not annealed the spring back goes to .001 and continues to get worse up to about.001.5 to .002 with 5x fired brass.
like hafejd i know several guys that anneal every time but for me every second firing seems to work well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LongRange

its a good thing you only eat chicken now because your full of bull LMAO!!!

---

They say the surface of the planet is about 2/3 water.
But what we dont know at least for sure is how much of the remaining 1/3 is covered with B S.
One thing is for sure however in that shooters, hunters and fishermen are responsible for an awfull lot of it.
Except thee and me, and sometimes im very suspicious about thee. lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yobuck

They say the surface of the planet is about 2/3 water.
But what we dont know at least for sure is how much of the remaining 1/3 is covered with B S.
One thing is for sure however in that shooters, hunters and fishermen are responsible for an awfull lot of it.
Except thee and me, and sometimes im very suspicious about thee. lol

---

Lmao now aint that the truth!!
Ive heard more BS come out of those three groups than most any others.

[QUOTE=yobuck;316235]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Burr

YoBuck - in the next couple of days I'll tackle the picture posting and give a walleye lure (or two). The best ones are the lures hanging off the chin of a 30" walleye, right?

NO,i dont think that is right, but it does sell lures.
5 years ago, i didnt know a single person who annealed their cases.
Yet several of my friends have been record holders at Williamsport. The only guy
to have ever to this day won the best agregate award for all matches in a single year 2 times, never annealed his cases.
Which at least in my opinion prooves we just cant buy our way.

---

To me, annealing is far more about brass longevity than accuracy.

It can have an effect on accuracy though. If you keep fire counts on brass, keep them sorted as such, and anneal them all at the same time, then neck tension should be more consistent from round to round. And as we all know, consistency is key.

I'm certainly not saying that you can't set records without annealing, but it sure doesn't hurt.

here is a complete article on case prep
more than you need to know

http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LongRange

Lmao now aint that the truth!!
Ive heard more BS come out of those three groups than most any others.

---

Did you forget about politicians?

i did...but we all know when ever their mouths are moving their lying!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LongRange

i did...but we all know when ever their mouths are moving their lying!

---

Only the ones who get elected. The others arent able to get elected.