First Build (Stevens 200 in 308 Winchester)

MY FIRST BUILD
I've been on this site a couple years now and have finally gathered the components to tackle my first build with. As I've looked at other build threads I have learned quite a bit and I want this thread to do the same for the next person. I intend to ask all my questions regarding my build in this thread so please bear with me. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but may have trouble from time to time especially with small tedious work that requires PATIENCE. If I add anything that I missed to the build I will try to keep the cost updated.

COST
I bought everything brand new except for the rifle (action) and the SSS LVT Stock...
I'm also listing tools that I didn't have that I felt necessary to get the job done right...

-Stevens Model 200 action.........................$ 200
-3 screw factory trigger............................$ 30
-X-Caliber 26" SS Varmit Contour...............$ 250
....1:10 Twist w/Recessed Target Crown
-Sharp Shooter Supply LVT Stock...............$ 150
....Accesory rail, Adj. Comb, Butt Hook
-Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24x50 SFP.................$ 550
-EGW 20 moa one piece base.....................$ 45
-Burris Signature Zee 30mm Med rings........$ 55
-NSS Barrel Nut (Stainless).......................$ 28
-NSS Recoil Lug.......................................$ 27
-NSS Action Wrench.................................$ 60
-NSS Barrel Wrench.................................$ 25
-Forester Go Guage..................................$ 28
-Gun SavR gunstock finish.........................$ 15
-FAT Wrench (in/lb torque wrench)..............$ 50
-Shipping charges........(estimated).............$ 50
-Glades Armory Bolt handle.......................$ 70

TOTAL COST TO DATE...................$1633


RIFLE'S PURPOSE

This rifle is mainly going to be shot from 300-500 yards ringing steel and punching paper. Around where I live finding a 1000 yard shot is near impossible. Hopefully we can find some 700-800 yard shots soon. I may occasionally take a deer with this rifle since I'm building on my deer rifle action.. Hopefully I can find another short action Stevens 200 to put this sporter barrel back on and have my deer rifle back. The way the rifle sits right now I can shoot right around 1 MOA and that increases as I get out past 300 yards to 1.5 MOA... I'm really hoping to see 1/2 MOA accuracy with this new build at short range and hopefully at medium range also as I become a better marksman.

PICTURES

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps91f1bc8f.jpg

Always gotta set the barrel in the channel and get a feel for what it will look like... LOL

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps2ee89169.jpg

COMMENTS / SUGGESTIONS
I most certainly welcome any suggestions or advice regarding this rifle. Comments or questions are welcome also...

Looking Good, do not forget the bolt handle

Looks like fun, can't wait to see how it shoots. One question, why not install an aftermarket trigger?

Roger on that bolt handle...

I bought that 3 screw trigger trying to make the stock rifle shoot better for cheap while I saved for the build. I will probably go with the SAV-2 eventually on this build. Which trigger do you reccommend?

I am trying to figure out what bipod will work with that accessory rail. My current bipod does not tighten up against the stock when installed on the rail so it wobbles some...

I was just curious, why buy all that nice equipment and not get a trigger, just seemed odd. However the three screw trigger can be tuned and is quite pleasant to shoot, have one on a rifle (2.5 lbs). I also own a SAV-2 (14oz), I like it and would recommended it to anyone. The SAV-2 can be a bit of a pain to setup but it is a good trigger and worth the money and effort.

It's nice to see such a well-organized and thought out post about a build. You should end up with a great rifle. Looks good to me!

Looks really good, I like seeing start to finish builds. Keep us posted on how it goes
Scooter

If you rule out the tools and scope it cost 785.00 with the tools at 228.00 and the scope at 550. All in all this is one heck of nice rifle for the money.

Great thread, will be watching with interest.

Where are you at in the build, have you unscrewed the factory barrel yet?

You mention that you're getting appr 1 MOA out of the factory rifle, and it appears that you reload, what is your load/procedure?

+1 on the Sav-2 trigger, it does take a few minutes to set up but is well worth the time and cost, it is a huge improvement.

Great choice on the glass too.

On the 175 SMKs I ended up with 43.5 grains of IMR4064 at 2.865 OAL.. That is about .020 off the lands and I single loaded them. i had just bought a box of 168 SMKs and was seeing potential there.

I have not started taking the rifle apart yet, should get started later this week. i hope this thread comes together as I envision it being such that everybody can get something from it, but especially those wanting to do this but a little apprehensive like I've been.

I've tried to spend my money wisely on this build. i saved up and bought the scope and mounts while I was learning more about barrels and waiting for a deal on a stock and what not... I've got questions in my head right now but I want to ask them at the right time so not to confuse the entire thread. i appreciate the comments..

Sounds great, looking forward to seeing how it goes.

I'm glad you're doing this and will follow it with a lot of interest. I have a 7mm Rem Mag in the safe with a plan to make it a 1000 yard rifle. I can't wait to see how your's turns out.

I got started today... Started by removing the scope, rings and base... Took my time here to remove the blue loctite that was on the threads from previous installation and package everything away. Then I got out the NSS Action Wrench and installed it on the action. Here are a few pics of that so you can see how the cutout for the recoil lug works..

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps6f6330e3.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...psb2b96f25.jpg

The allen head bolt screws in where the front action screw would normally go...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps68e68f62.jpg

The directions say you need to keep even opening on both sides of the action wrench as you tighten it up on the action in this step.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps66c08689.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...psad02f324.jpg

Was able to play around with the fitment of the centerfeed blind magazine into the new stock and am having some issues here...

Here is how the magazine fits presently. When I place the action in on top of this, the rear tang sits up off the stock. Am I going to need to get the dremmel tool out here or is there another solution?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4e3888e6.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps9b7f73c3.jpg


This is how I think the rear tang should fit. (this picture is without the magazine installed and the action sitting in the stock)

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps911adffc.jpg

The tang should be free floated. This is normal for Savage and a requirement to get the most accuracy out of them.

Care to tell me how I get there from where I'm at?

Although the second picture is more visually pleasing, the first picture is more correct as far as fitment. As long as magazine function/feeding is good, you're ok. You want the rear action area (tang) to "float". Although, you do have quite a bit of float there, that's better than contact. I usually try for about the thickness of a business card under the tang, and at least that or more under the full length of the barrel.

Well before you try to make any changes for fit, I would verify with SSS if this is standard for their stocks. I have two of their stocks for the Axis line an 0 adjustments were required for fitment. I would be my guess that as long as the action is making full contact with the stock the SSS did it this way in order to get the tang free floated.

In looking at your pic of the installed magazine, it looks like the "L" clip is not quite in place in its slot. It should be sitting flush on top of the pillar. There's a little tab on the other end of the L clip that should be engaged in a slot in the magazine, if I recall correctly. It looks like this may not be in place.

Yes.. The clip is lifted up due to the spring action of the magazine. I can push it down but it springs back up to that position. The pillars are curved to fit the action, but with the magazine installed, the rear of the action rest on this clip instead of the pillar. I've got the little tab on the bottom end of the clip inserted into the magazine shroud correctly I feel kinda sure... LOL..

Ok. It looks crooked in the pic. It is supposed to sit on top of the pillar. It kinda acts like a spacer. Not the best design, but it is what it is. Make sure it goes down into its slot when you set the action down on top of it. Then snug down the action screws, front one first, and check the fit. Test for proper feeding.

But I'll say again, it really should be down into its place before you put the action in. Something is not in place.

I worked on the magazine again this morning and was able to get the magazine and clip to say down against the pillar. I installed the action in the stock and torqued down the action screws to 25 in lbs just to hold it pretty close to how it would be. The clip sitting atop the pillar is enough to push the barrel down against the forend of the stock. Therefore the barrel is not free floating.. When I install the action without the magazine without the clip sitting atop the pillar, the barrel is floated quite well throughout the barrel channel. It appears to me that material will have to be removed at one of two places a) the barrel channel at the forend b)the top of the pillar down to allow the clip to sit lower. I've emailed SSS as advised earlier to see what they said about the fit and included pics... We'll see how that goes over but I'm not sure if I will hear back from them or not...

Any suggestions?

Continuing on with the barrel installation.. I cleaned the threads on the receiver really good and just inspected the action best I could with my limited experience. I put the action wrench in my vise again such that the bolt was right side up so I could easily work it to check headspace. I screwed on the barrel nut and put a fair amount of anti-sieze on the barrel's threads. Made sure I put the recoil lug in position and screwed the barrel on.. Everything went together just fine and was able to find the just right spot where the bolt would close on my GO GUAGE relatively easily. I ended up using a piece of tape that I mic'd out to .0035 and put on the head of my GO GUAGE to make my own NO GO GUAGE. It worked... I tried to set the headspace as tight to the GO GUAGE as I possibly could and still have an easy bolt lift. Finally, I torqued the barrel nut down to 30 ft lbs.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf5175619.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4c9a963b.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0660d88e.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...psa4d98907.jpg

looking good!

Regarding the issue I am having with the magazine, I talked to the person I bought the stock from and he stated that he did not use the clip. I decided to use a piece of cardboard as a shim between the magazine shroud and the inletting for the magazine to secure it. This did away with the clip for now and allowed the action to sit down on the pillar. This does cause contact between the rear tang and the stock, but I'm going to continue on and see how it shoots before I revisit possibly floating the tang and bedding the action. The magazine does function properly now despite the clip not being there and the barrel is completely free floated all the way to the barrel nut. It actually has a pretty decent amount of float to it so hopefully that will be advantageous to cooling...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps05c9990e.jpg

Took the time here to clean the barrel from the manufacturing process... Here is what I got out...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps363d4202.jpg


Continuing on with the installation of the optics. I installed the EGW 20 moa base and torqued to 20 in lbs. Also applied a dab of blue loctite on those screws. I also installed the Burris Signature Zee rings and went with the +/- 10 inserts this time. I previously had 42 MOA of up adjustment which would have been plenty for my application but I went ahead anyhow with a little extra cant just in case a miracle happens and I get the chance to go long... LOL... Anyhow, installed the rings and torqued those to 30 in/lbs using blue loctite also. The Vortex Viper HS-T went on pretty easily since I already knew were I wanted it. Just had to level the recticle with my own little redneck leveling method and torque the clamp rings down to 30 in/lbs also using blue loctite.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf0f5a542.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps12bfad51.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps52ede2d0.jpg

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps7d30a90b.jpg


After I got eveything tightened down I took it outside bore sighted the rifle. I could certainly tell that I gained some elevation adjustment from the +/- 10 inserts. I brought it back to the bench and measured the distance to the lands with the 175 SMKs as well as the 168 SMKs. Those results are:

175 SMK's = 2.845" OAL touching the lands

168 SMK's = 2.865" OAL touching the lands

I threw some once fired FGMM brass in the tumbler, put the rifle in the safe and calling it a day.... I will try to come up with a plan on load development this evening and try to start loading some rounds tomorrow. Hopefully, I can test drive this thing by the end of the week. If you can't already tell, once I start a project I pretty much move along with it... Sometimes working so quickly is my greatest enemy but its just my nature. My wheels are always turning and I'm trying to think out ahead most of the time... LOL....

I really like the Hornady 178gr BTHP. They seem to be more consistent than the SMK's for me as would make sense with the additional BC.

Looks great- well done.

You may want to sort your stock fitment issues before shooting for accuracy, eliminating variables now could avoid headaches later.

Looks really good! Cant wait to see how it shoots.
Scooter

Here is the response I got from SSS on the retaining clip issue I'm having with the magazine.

"The solution is to cut the “L” clip back so the forked part is not on the pillar. The top part of the clip only needs to be hanging over about 3/16” to locate the magazine height. There should be a notch cut in front of the pillar to accommodate this."

Let me ask this question here.... In a stock that has only pillars, doesn't the action rest on these pillars? If that L-Clip sits up higher than the pillar, then the action will rest on the L clip and not the pillar. Can anyone elaborate on this for me?

Thanks

I'll take a shot at paraphrasing (incorrectly) what they said. Cut the tab and then cut a recess in the stock just in front of the rear pillar.
Any one else see it that way?

That sounds reasonable to me.. Another reason I like that option is because I think it would be fairly simple to do... LOL

Well I took about 6 shots to get the rifle sighted in decently close at 100 yards today.. Really much smoother shooting rifle than the stock stevens 200.. Thats for sure...
Dialed up 3.75 moa for the 300 yard ladder test with 1/2 grain increments from 39.5 to 44.5... Here are those results...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps3dbaa715.jpg

Came back to 100 yards and shot a couple of 3 shot groups with 43, 43.5 and 44 grains just for fun... They were all less than MOA but here is the best...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...psa432a836.jpg


http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps271a994f.jpg

I sprung for the Glade Armory bolt handle...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps980edf9e.jpg

My son and I finally got the 40 moa base on his gun today...

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps73c04833.jpg

Nice!!

I'm going to link to questions I have in new threads..

http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...179#post291179

Good lookin rifle that's coming along nicely!

I really had problems with that bracket. It doesn't allow the action to fully seat on the rear pillar. I ended up taking the magazine out, filling the magazine well with lead shot and epoxy; then bedding the action with a single shot sled. I realize you probably want a repeater so this is not possible. I would suggest cutting the L bracket as suggested. I have also heard of people removing the bracket and using a small amount of epoxy putty to stabilize the magazine box and do away with the bracket all together. This will eliminate some headaches when it comes to bedding. I ended up releaving the stock for the rear tang quit a bit so it floats as well. You seem to have put a lot of thought into your build. Good luck!

The new blind magazine design is asinine. The spring pressure is working against what amounts to friction when the action is out of the stock, and against the resistance of the L-clip against the bottom of the action when the action is installed and the box inevitably works loose after a few rounds.

What I did was made some brass shims out of spent casings and threaded them into the slots at the bottom of the magazine frame, across the bottom of the follower spring (held inside the mag). These slots are to mount a base plate for DBM models, which share the same frame. What the shims do is takes the spring pressure off the bottom of the stock cut out and onto the frame. You basically have a self contained box magazine.

With the spring pressure removed, the magazine is MUCH easier to install. With a couple of business cards, I was able to locate the magazine at the proper height so the bolt would pick up rounds but not bind. With the magazine no longer wanting to eject itself from the stock well, you can eliminate the L clip altogether and just fill the gap up with a spacer of some sort.