Reload advice needed***NEW RANGE RESULTS***

Here's the rifle I was shooting today:
Savage 243win
Model: 12 VLP DBM
243 WIN 1 in 9.25" twist
26" SS Fluted barrel

My handloads were blown out of the water by some Rem store bought ammo.
All shots were taken within 30 mins time, @ 100yds, without anything changed, except the ammo.
Look at the accuracy of the 100gr rounds(store bought)
then look at my handloaded 70gr rounds(hand loaded 243 Win, Sierra 70gr Match King HPBT #1505, IMR 4064 @ 36.8gr (35.5 - 39.4gr), OAL 2.625" .
The order in which they were shot was:
100gr Rem (feeling good about my skills, like "this is easy")
70gr handloads (back down to earth)

Any comments or recommendations on reloading the next batch? Can I get the 70 grain ammo to group?
Thanks, MrHaka


[img width=447 height=450]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/bwanatom/Guns/DSCF0648.jpg[/img]

Don't know much about reloading the .243 win, someone with more experience with that cartridge will chime in, but what I do know about handloading is try different powder weights, different powders and seating depths and if all that fails then I usually get a different bullet weight. The bullet weight may be the problem your gun shot the 100grs real well but not the 70gr, your gun may not like 70gr bullets it may just not like that brand of 70 gr bullet, just have to keep working on it till you find something it likes. Kris

9.25 might be a little tight for 70 grain bullets, but no direct experience with 243 caliber myself. The 100 rain bullets look like they loved the faster twist of your barrel though!

On my factory stock L/A .243 with a 70gr. Berger I load 41.0 IMR4350 and 38.5 IMR4320. Get bug holes ;D

What is the twist rate on your barrel?

Looking at the target, I too would think that your barrel/twist is more compatible with heavier bullets. I would kick it up a notch and try some 85gr Sierra HPBTs with either 4350, 4831SC, or H Hybrid 100. They are still light enough to get good velocity for varmints and yet that bullet is pretty good on whitetails.

uj

I would quit reloading!

70gr's will shoot out of the factory 9.25" just fine. I would go back to the beginning with your handloads, You may have just hit a bad node in your powder selection. Try loading up from min towards max in increment's of a half grain to start, then take the good ones and fine tune them. You could try to get a little closer to the lands, but are gonna need some measuring tools to do it properly. I've shot 70gr Blitzkings, 60gr Sierra Hollow points and 58-75gr V-maxs with Sub-Moa accuracy in factory 243Win 1-9.25" twist barrels.

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70gr's will shoot out of the factory 9.25" just fine. I would go back to the beginning with your handloads

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I'm going to try a little more powder, like you suggest, maybe .5 grains at a time. I did start on the low side, so I'll ramp it up a bit.

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On my factory stock L/A .243 with a 70gr. Berger I load 41.0 IMR4350 and 38.5 IMR4320. Get bug holes

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Thanks, that gives me a little confidence.

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I would quit reloading!

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That takes away the confidence previously attained.

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What is the twist rate on your barrel?

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My barrel twist is 9.25", it is in the original post at the beginning.
Mr Haka

I have read that seating depth has greater effect on accuracy than powder type and the specific charge used. I don't know whether or not that is true, I've just read it. And I can't for the life of me remember where, but the data was very suggestive.

But I went the other way around when loading my first time around. First I found some cheap factory ammo my rifle liked, then I loaded up a similar bullet of identical weight. It turned out that my .30-06 liked 180 gr Remington Core-Lokt Express and any bullet lighter than that was about as accurate as spitwads. I loaded up some 180 gr Hornady SP over increasing charges of H414 and took it to the range. 3 MOA @ 100 yards. So I looked up the most accurate load in a Hornady reloading manual. I bought some RL-19 and everything settled down. Now, I'm guessing that if I experimented with seating depth I could get the H414 to shoot between about 1.5" and 6", but it just seems like such a lost cause right now.

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Originally Posted by scratcherky

I would quit reloading!

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This one I would take as sarcasm, and continue with the others advise. Do a ladder load test and then work with the best group as far as seating depth adjustments for fine tuning the load. Once that is down pat try different primers. Remember to change only one thing at a time, or you will be chasing your tail. Funny to watch but not fun to do. You just get dizzy.
My .308 likes 4064 never tried it in .243 (been awhile since I reloaded for .243) May be a better powder oout there for your bullet weight. re--- faster? I use 4064 with 168g SMK's in .308...no Varget available.

Good luck

That's why they call it building load and development. It takes more then 1 try usually, you'll get there with the advice given here. Factory loads are for people that either don't know how to reload or are to lazy or have lots of money, I don't fit into any of those categories so I reload. Also I should mention I'm also CHEAP! I just bought a .243 model 10 today and I already load for my brothers rifle, I use Retumbo and a 105 Amax's that is outstanding out to 600 yards from a 22 inch sporter barrel.

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Originally Posted by sparks1

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Originally Posted by scratcherky

I would quit reloading!

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This one I would take as sarcasm, and continue with the others advise. Do a ladder load test and then work with the best group as far as seating depth adjustments for fine tuning the load. Once that is down pat try different primers. Remember to change only one thing at a time, or you will be chasing your tail. Funny to watch but not fun to do. You just get dizzy.
My .308 likes 4064 never tried it in .243 (been awhile since I reloaded for .243) May be a better powder oout there for your bullet weight. re--- faster? I use 4064 with 168g SMK's in .308...no Varget available.

Good luck

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Sarcastic honesty. If factory ammo shot that well in my .30-06, I would have not started reloading when I did. Now accuracy is an addiction. Could I quit if I found an inexpensive factory round that shot that well? Probably not.

As for the comment about reloading being cheaper, it's only because we shoot so much. How many of those rounds are load development?

How far off the lands are your bullets seated now? I would lean towards the suspicion that your bullets are jumping too far to the lands. Also important is your powder charge is actually BELOW the starting load for that bullet in my Lyman #49 manual.

Start here:

First, a "ladder test" of 5 shot each, with a .5 grain increase in powder every 5 shots. I wouldn't start off with the starting load at all, but at the half way point between "start" and "max". According to Lyman's data, that's 37.0 grains to a max of 41.0 grains. So, split the difference and start with 39.0 grains of powder, and .5 grain increments until you hit 41.0 grs. So you will effectively have 5 sets of 5 shots to test with this powder. That is my version of a "ladder test".

Second, I would "start" my test with the bullet seated 10 thousanths off the lands in my individual rifle. You don't really need any fancy tools to find this measurement. Take a case, charged with powder, and set it under your seating die, with the die intentionally sitting "long" in the press. Seat the bullet so that it sticks out noticeably too far in the case, then "test chamber" it in the rifle. Notice how far the bolt still needs to travel when it stops, and turn the seating die into the press frame deeper. I usually do a quarter of a turn at a time, until you get to the point that the bolt just BARELY closes on your round. Now measure that distance of your over all length (OAL), and write that number down. That will be the distance to the lands on YOUR rifle with THAT bullet. Now just seat that bullet 10 thousanths deeper into the case, and there you go, that's "10 thousanths off the lands".

Start there, and keep good notes on what works, and what doesn't, in YOUR rifle.

In my particular rifles, SMK's like to be "jumped" 10 thou to the lands, AND I don't have any rifles that shoot worth a crap at a "starting load" powder level. Most of my rifles seem to find there "sweet spots" at or near the max load for a particular powder. Just approach "max" with due caution, because no 2 rifles will hit the same pressures with the same powder charge. Hence, the "ladder test".

If you don't see a good load with bullet seating depth at 10 thou off lands, then try 20 thou off lands, or even "on" lands, or even try "jamming" bullets 10 thou INTO the lands. In each case, when you change seating depth, make sure you start your powder "ladder tests" all over again, pressures change when seating depth changes.

Good luck, welcome to handloading.

mrhaka,

Looking at the target, you fired only 5 rounds with the reloads....all different powder charges correct?

There is no possible way for you to make any kind of conclusion based on what you fired. The 70g Sierra should shoot very well in that Savage. Work up a load slowly and find the best powder charge for your barrel. 3 shot groups are okay but since you have a heavy barrel and are shooting target bullets, I'd do five at each charge.

Once you find the charge, fine tune the load with small changes in seating depth. IMR 4064 is a good powder but it can make a barrel hot real fast so be aware of how fast you're shooting.

Go load up some more rounds, fire 'em and report back.

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Sarcastic honesty.

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That's the way it was taken, just fun.

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Also important is your powder charge is actually BELOW the starting load for that bullet in my Lyman #49 manual.

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At my bench I was looking over the load data and notice the same thing. That bothers me because I take pride in being careful. Glad I only loaded the
5 rds.

Start here:

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First, a "ladder test" of 5 shot each, with a .5 grain increase in powder every 5 shots. I wouldn't start off with the starting load at all, but at the half way point between "start" and "max". According to Lyman's data, that's 37.0 grains to a max of 41.0 grains. So, split the difference and start with 39.0 grains of powder, and .5 grain increments until you hit 41.0 grs. So you will effectively have 5 sets of 5 shots to test with this powder. That is my version of a "ladder test".

Second, I would "start" my test with the bullet seated 10 thousanths off the lands in my individual rifle. You don't really need any fancy tools to find this measurement. Take a case, charged with powder, and set it under your seating die, with the die intentionally sitting "long" in the press. Seat the bullet so that it sticks out noticeably too far in the case, then "test chamber" it in the rifle. Notice how far the bolt still needs to travel when it stops, and turn the seating die into the press frame deeper. I usually do a quarter of a turn at a time, until you get to the point that the bolt just BARELY closes on your round. Now measure that distance of your over all length (OAL), and write that number down. That will be the distance to the lands on YOUR rifle with THAT bullet. Now just seat that bullet 10 thousanths deeper into the case, and there you go, that's "10 thousanths off the lands".

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Great info, I'll do that with my next reloads.
thanks for the help, MrHaka

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Originally Posted by trappst

mrhaka,

Looking at the target, you fired only 5 rounds with the reloads....all different powder charges correct?

There is no possible way for you to make any kind of conclusion based on what you fired. The 70g Sierra should shoot very well in that Savage. Work up a load slowly and find the best powder charge for your barrel. 3 shot groups are okay but since you have a heavy barrel and are shooting target bullets, I'd do five at each charge.

Once you find the charge, fine tune the load with small changes in seating depth. IMR 4064 is a good powder but it can make a barrel hot real fast so be aware of how fast you're shooting.

Go load up some more rounds, fire 'em and report back.

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There were only two loads shot at the target posted. Thanks for the good info as well. I am ready to load up some more, various loads in .5 grain increments to start.
thanks again, MH

My favorite powder for .243 is Imr 4350.

I am also suspicious over that fast twist and 70 gr. bullets. Others can have good luck but it does not mean your barrel will like them..... you just have to search for the sweet spot if it exists.

By and large a ten twist is good down to 75 grs. in .243

But it is only sensible to not just shoot one or two round groups ..... you'll never learn anything that way. I make up three round groups for the lower end of the load range and get up to five round groups as I pass the half way between the start charge and the maximum.

The reason I do this is two fold:

One .... why waste sweat and tears on a low load that I won't stick with anyway?

Two ...... the upper range is where I want to be .... and if there is a sweet spot I up there ..... I don't want to miss it.

If I get a sweet spot ...... I go back over it and even ferret out in .1 grain increments to get the last hairs breath of good out of it.

And the info about seating depth doubly applies ..... but be sure to treat those different seating depths as separate and new loads ...... start low and work up.

Best to start "ten or twenty thou" off the lands.

If that does not cut it then branch out to more and less clearance.

With lighter bullets, I would not hold my breath at much over 30 thou off ......

Best of luck ..... remember, we are "always here"!!!


Three 44s

...With the Nosler 70's I only use a stiff dose of Varget...90's for deer sits on top of H4350...4064 shot good in the .308 but heated the bbl. faster than H4895...You never stated what your intended purpose for your load to be used for...Myself I'ld start at 1gr below book max & go from there if it's for hunting...

+1 on the barrel heating. +2 on seating depth.

Upon further analysis, the 70gr probably didn't have a chance to have a decent group.
They were loaded a hair below min setting. As a result, I have taken all similar brass (win)
and trimmed them to size, and loaded them in a step ladder format. The range for Varget
powder with a 70gr HPBT MatchKing bullet is 37---41gr. @ 2.625" . I loaded:
10 rds @ 37.5gr
" 38.5gr
" 39.5gr
" 40.5gr
I also have some 90gr FMJBT Gameking rounds I am going to load in similar fashion. I hope to
try them all out this weekend, and will post some results. After I find what loads best, I will
follow the procedure you folks mentioned about the "lands" (new to me). I hope the 70's shoot
well enough to keep, I have 200 rds of them.
thanks, MH

Please do post back Mr....and way to be.. never give up! You are SURE to find that sweet load. A few more trips to the range and you'll have it.. I love this part of it all. Then you know what your rifle will do and your confidence goes through the roof with that rifle and in general and you will be taking shots that your buddies will talk about for years.... :o Good luck and enjoy..

Back with range results
I can't explain this: The 70gr is out shooting the 90gr by a wide margin???
I have read that my 9.25" twist works best with 100gr bullets?
It proved that last week when I originally posted this thread.
Except for the center of target #2, these are all 5 shot groups. The 70gr shot so well that my shots doubled up on the holes.
Check out these results:
MrHaka
I loaded up some more 243 to test out two different sized bullets:
Sierra 70gr MatchKing HPBT
5 rds @ 37.5gr IMR4064 (target #1)
5 rds @ 38.5gr IMR4064 "
5 rds @ 39.5gr IMR4064 "
5 rds @ 40.5gr IMR4064 "
5 rds Rem 100gr(store bought) "

Sierra 90gr GameKing FMJBT
5 rds @ 35.0gr IMR4064 (target #2)
5 rds @ 36.0gr IMR4064 "
5 rds @ 37.0gr IMR4064 "
5 rds @ 38.0gr IMR4064 "
4 rds @ 38.5gr IMR4064 " <<<=== 70gr MatchKing (notice how the 70gr started to group again, as compared to the 90gr)

[img width=448 height=450]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/bwanatom/Guns/DSCF0660.jpg[/img][img width=449 height=450]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y151/bwanatom/Guns/DSCF0658.jpg[/img]

...Look&#39;s like 40.5 wins that round... 8)

Isn&#39;t it a little lopsided comparing a match bullet to a FMJBT in tests ?

I&#39;m not sure why you are going in 1 grain increments but I START my load development with 3rds in .5grn increments all at the same seating depth. See what groups together the best and then go to .2 grain increments from that to further tune. If I still feel the groups could be tighter THEN I will play with seating depth.

Don&#39;t reinvent the wheel, try loads that work and go from there.

When I look at your targets I see 5 dead varmints and 5 dead deer, but that&#39;s just me. Could this have anything to do with the burn rate of your powder? It looks like IMR 4064 is pretty efficient at pushing the 70 grainers, but not so hot with the heavier for caliber bullets.

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Look&#39;s like 40.5 wins that round... Cool*

Isn&#39;t it a little lopsided comparing a match bullet to a FMJBT in tests ?*

I&#39;m not sure why you are going in 1 grain increments but I START my load development with 3rds in .5grn increments all at the same seating depth. See what groups together the best and then go to .2 grain increments from that to further tune. If I still feel the groups could be tighter THEN I will play with seating depth.
Don&#39;t reinvent the wheel, try loads that work and go from there.*

When I look at your targets I see 5 dead varmints and 5 dead deer, but that&#39;s just me. Could this have anything to do with the burn rate of your powder? It looks like IMR 4064 is pretty efficient at pushing the 70 grainers, but not so hot with the heavier for caliber bullets.

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Yea, the 40.5g is a nice tight group, thanks

As far as a Match bullet compared to a FMJ, I&#39;m not sure how they should compare, but Sierra says this about them: GameKing® bullets are designed for hunting at long range, where their extra margin of performance can make the critical difference. GameKing® bullets feature a boat tail design to bring hunters the ballistic advantage of match bullets.
The streamlined tapered base of the boat tail bullet greatly reduces drag, which results in higher retained velocity, greater striking energy, a flatter trajectory and less wind drift than comparable flat base bullets. Maybe I&#39;ll see if I can get some 90-100g Match bullets to try out.

The reason I went one grain at a time was to focus in on the best part of the range, in a coarse method. When I got into the ballpark, I will then go to much smaller increments.

I have 4 lbs of Varget, which is right next to IMR4064 on the burn rate chart I&#39;m going to try.

thanks for your help,
MrHaka

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bythebook
Isn&#39;t it a little lopsided comparing a match bullet to a FMJBT in tests ?

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I just got off the phone with a ballistic tech from Sierra. He told me a couple things that I definitely didn&#39;t know.
1) The 90grain fmjbt is the worst possible bullet I could shoot in my rifle (or any rifle) for accuracy. That bullet was designed for one purpose, and one purpose only, to shoot wild game in Europe with the "least" amount of pelt/flesh damage. The fmj is installed backwards, front to rear, making the bullet very difficult to balance. The tech told me he doesn&#39;t know of any rifle out there that can shoot this bullet for accuracy, and that I should not expect it to have any good grouping.
2) My 9.25" twist should stabilize any grain size from 55 to 100g.
3)Anybody want to buy some 90gr GameKing HPBT bullets?

good call bythebook,
MrHaka

First... the twist rate isn&#39;t fast at all. 9-1/8 to 9-1/4 has been used in factory .243 Win rifles from all makers for decades with great success with bullets from 55gr on up. There is absolutely no reason (based on twist rate) that thing should have any problem with 70 *OR* 90gr bullets.

Second... it should work (more or less) with bullets in the 100gr range if they are *hunting bullets*. These tend to not be near as needle/spike shaped i.e. long for caliber as say, a 105gr match bullet, and that is generally the difference between working in a 9.25 twist and needing a 1-8 twist. There are some *very* good match/varmint bullets in the 85-95gr range though, for exactly that reason - they should stabilize in the slightly slower 9-10" twist barrels that are so common. There are, of course, exceptions to this &#39;general&#39; thumb rule - sometimes people find heavier match bullets work okay in their 9.whatever twists, sometimes the extra &#39;oomph&#39; of a bigger case like the .243 (vs. a 6 BR) may let you get away with it.

Ack. Looks like the Sierra guy told you about what I was typing... ;)

Ack. Looks like the Sierra guy told you about what I was typing... Yes, it appears so. I learned something. I just have to find a use for so many 90g GameKing bullets, &#39;cause they are useless to me.
MrHaka

Save &#39;em for gun show trading bait to &#39;sweeten&#39; the deal ;)

keep it simple!! u know the rest!! so do i. lol!! take your time and look at what you want from your rifle and loads!! small groups at the bench or that coyote at 300 yards? ;)

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Save &#39;em for gun show trading bait to &#39;sweeten&#39; the deal

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keep it simple!! u know the rest!! so do i. lol!! take your time and look at what you want from your rifle and loads!! small groups at the bench or that coyote at 300 yards?

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Well, maybe I&#39;ll take to my club pro shop and sell them half price. By the way, Midway said they would buy the one unopened box back from me, but is it worth the hassle shipping and cost? Can you ship bullets without any hassle legally?

Yes, simple is more fun for me. I loaded up some 58gr Hornady VMax&#39;s to see how my rifle will handle them. It should be interesting.

thanks, MrHaka

good luck!! ;D

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Originally Posted by mrhaka

Can you ship bullets without any hassle legally?

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Yep. Nothing special required. Even loaded rounds only require a sticker stating &#39;ORM-D Cartridges, Small Arms&#39; to declare the contents. Shipping powder and primers are more of a PITA, though.

Both Berger and Sierra make a 6mm 95gr match bullet that should work pretty well in that 9.25" twist but as mentioned it may or may not be the ticket for &#39;yotes. The 55-58gr stuff will explode varmints like Gallagher&#39;s hammer in amongst the watermelons at shorter ranges, but flies like a dang whiffle-ball in the wind at longer distances. Hornady&#39;s 87gr V-Max looks (on paper) to be the best of both worlds - varmint bullet construction, but with a higher BC and more smack-factor at distance than most pure varmint bullets. I&#39;ve seen a lot of varied reports on getting them to actually shoot accurately. I&#39;ve got several boxes here that I need to get off my behind and get ta working on load development in my 6-6.5x47L... the 70-75gr bullets seem to be a pretty popular compromise across the board, and as you saw with your load testing... they shoot pretty well.

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The tech told me he doesn&#39;t know of any rifle out there that can shoot this bullet for accuracy, and that I should not expect it to have any good grouping.

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Years ago I had a heavy barrel Ruger in .243. It shot everything well except the FMJ 90g Sierra. Don&#39;t know how long and how many load combination&#39;s I went through before I just gave up. Shouda just called Sierra like you did.

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Originally Posted by trappst

mrhaka,

Looking at the target, you fired only 5 rounds with the reloads....all different powder charges correct?

There is no possible way for you to make any kind of conclusion based on what you fired. The 70g Sierra should shoot very well in that Savage. Work up a load slowly and find the best powder charge for your barrel. 3 shot groups are okay but since you have a heavy barrel and are shooting target bullets, I&#39;d do five at each charge.

Once you find the charge, fine tune the load with small changes in seating depth. IMR 4064 is a good powder but it can make a barrel hot real fast so be aware of how fast you&#39;re shooting.


RIGHT!! Five round groups. And use a different target for each load!! Take notes as to the powder charge, seating depth/AOL etc. Compare
apples to apples... Otherwise there is no information gained...

Pete

Go load up some more rounds, fire &#39;em and report back.

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Years ago I had a heavy barrel Ruger in .243. It shot everything well except the FMJ 90g Sierra. Don&#39;t know how long and how many load combination&#39;s I went through before I just gave up. Shouda just called Sierra like you did.
Pete K.

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I haven&#39;t shot many different loads or bullets yet, as I am still trying to hone in to accuracy, but I am convinced that these 90g FMU&#39;s will not shoot accurately. They just are not built for target shooting. Nobody can shoot them accurate.

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Once you find the charge, fine tune the load with small changes in seating depth. IMR 4064 is a good powder but it can make a barrel hot real fast so be aware of how fast you&#39;re shooting.

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Yes, that was my original intention, to do a coarse step ladder, then fine tune around the best grouping. thanks.

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RIGHT!! Five round groups. And use a different target for each load!! Take notes as to the powder charge, seating depth/AOL

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10-4, I am going to do the same test again with just he 70g. Problem is, all the 5 shot groupings on the target look pretty good, so which load do I pick?

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Model 12 VLP-SS-S .223 "Big Chief Lil&#39; Beaver Happy camper now!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...6/DSCN0380.jpg

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BCL, that is a sweet looking rifle, you have good taste. It was difficult to choose betwist the .223 and the .243. Both are great guns. If I could have only one caliber rifle, it might be the .223. But I chose the .243 because I wanted to get an AR-15 in .223. Not to say you couldn&#39;t have both in.223, but just my thinking.
Good luck to ya,
MrHaka

I would work between the 39.0 and 40.0 charge, .3gr at a time, then fine tune the seating depth.

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I would work between the 39.0 and 40.0 charge, .3gr at a time, then fine tune the seating depth.

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Ok, I&#39;ll give it a try. Maybe this weekend I can get out again.
MH

That&#39;s my biggest problem, I get out too much, step out the basement door and shoot. Can&#39;t afford to keep myself in powder and bullets. I shoot so much the tree&#39;s keep falling.

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That&#39;s my biggest problem, I get out too much, step out the basement door and shoot. Can&#39;t afford to keep myself in powder and bullets. I shoot so much the tree&#39;s keep falling.

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You must live in a nice loacation. If I step out of my basement and shoot, I&#39;ll be looking out from behind bars.
MH

As others have replied, the 70 bullet could be a bit light for a 9.25 twist barrel. And of course, just a single 5-shot group doesn&#39;t tell a complete story. Keep experimenting! My own experience with a Model 12 .243 with a 9.25 twist is that it has trouble handling the lighter boat tail bullets. Sierra makes an 85 gr. Game King boat tail that just won&#39;t shoot right in my gun. Waaaay too touchy. But the Sierra 85 gr. flat based varminter is an excellent shooter...in my rifle. Berger 80 gr. and 88 gr. also shoot quite well with H4350.

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the 70 bullet could be a bit light for a 9.25 twist barrel

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The ballistics technician at Sierra told me my gun should stabalize everything between 55 and 100gr bullets. I have some 95gr MatchKing&#39;s arriving tomorrow. I&#39;m going to try them out this weekend against the 70gr MatchKings, along with some "55"gr Hornady V-MAX rounds, to see which I can group better. Also, I&#39;m gonna go out to 200 yds to see there. Half the fun is trying to produce the right load for my gun.
MrHak

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My own experience with a Model 12 .243 with a 9.25 twist is that it has trouble handling the lighter boat tail bullets.

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I just purchased some Sierra 95gr MatchKing bullets, and am looking for some load data. Does anybody have data for Varget powder?,
Thanks, MH

Hodgdon website shows a starting load of 33.0g and a max of 35.0g

data is for the 95g Nosler partition