Jard triggers.

I'm posting to inform you guys and gals of "my" experience with the Jard 1# trigger. This thing is awesome. Creep free, clean break, no over travel, fits perfectly, very light pull weight, under a pound, no bump or slam fires. It probably works so well, because they corrected the relationship of the sear and trigger notch. It does have a black oxide like finish on it, so it's not pretty. It also takes a lot of inletting of the stock, at least it did on a Choate tactical. But it is very well worth the effort to inlet for it. If your looking for a target/bench style trigger, I recommend giving a Jard a try.

Nothing beats having your needs and wants satisfied by one inexpensive quality item.
I have never used a Jard trigger but your high praise will make me consider one in the future.:cool:

RP12, that is great to hear. Did you "find" the missing spring, did you get a replacement this quick, or did you make one out of an "ink pen" spring? What ever, I love it when a plan comes together! ;-) ....... Jim

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

RP12, that is great to hear. Did you "find" the missing spring, did you get a replacement this quick, or did you make one out of an "ink pen" spring? What ever, I love it when a plan comes together! ;-) ....... Jim

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No my findings were before I lost the spring. I had a bright idea to take the trigger apart to clean the action.:crazy: That's when the spring came up missing. I'm going to call Jard in the morning for a spring.

Well, while your waiting, you might give the "ink pin" spring a try. It has been done buy others on here. Perhaps someone will chime in. If it works, it could be a way to experiment with different trigger weights without messing with the original spring?

The ink pen springs are to large of diameter to fit in the hole. I have used them in the past on other types of triggers.

Roger that ;-)

Well, I ordered a new spring, actually I ordered 4 new springs from Jard today. Seeing as my memory is the second shortest thing I've got, I thought I'd better get some spares. I hope I don't need more than that as they are 5 bucks apiece.

RP12 - Does your trigger uncock if you pull your bolt back?

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Originally Posted by dcloco

RP12 - Does your trigger uncock if you pull your bolt back?

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The sear moves forward when I pull the bolt back all the way to set the trigger, is that what your asking ? I have since fixed that issue.

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Originally Posted by dcloco

RP12 - Does your trigger uncock if you pull your bolt back?

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With the sear spring the way it was, I had to pull the bolt all the way back to set the trigger. I just bent the sear spring open a little to give it enough tension to push the sear forward on it's own. Now it functions just like the factory trigger. The sear spring mod was not in the instructions, but it should be, or they should supply a new spring in the kit that has the right tension.

You can find very small diameter springs in cigarette lighters.

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Originally Posted by Mach2

You can find very small diameter springs in cigarette lighters.

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Yes you can, good thnk'in. I'll check that out, thanks.

I just checked the pull weight today, with an RCBS trigger pull gauge. 4 oz's consistently. I checked it 5 times from one side of the gun then the other and it broke at 4 oz's every time.

And is this using the 1 pound spring ?

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

And is this using the 1 pound spring ?

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Yup, the 1 pound spring. I was hoping, for lighter than a pound. It doesn't bump fire, but if I beat on the side of the rifle, I can get it to trip. Also I have a hard time tripping it with slam fires. So all in all safe enough for a bench/ target rifle.

Mine breaks at 6 oz's out of the box. BUT, this is with an OLD RCBS spring type trigger pull scale.

I feel I need to eat crow and take my lumps. I had an issue with the Jard trigger. The sear cracked, so I sent it back. It took two weeks to get the new sear. This one is worse than the first one. The sear pin wouldn't even go through the holes with out fighting it through, it was out of alignment, then the sear was off center by at least 1/16", from the trigger notch. I got it together to try it anyway, but it would trip just looking at it and didn't function safely at all. I don't mean to bash the Jard product, but I feel I should fore warn anyone of "my" experience with the trigger. I'm going to send it back to them. Hopefully I will get a refund, if not it's a $100.00 lesson learned.

Can one still use the factory safety with these triggers?

Yes.

This trigger and sear looks like it has adjustable sear engagement via setscrew, with a compression type trigger return spring instead of the original straight wire spring.

Is that correct?

Are there any other features that make it worth considering?

I am thinking the SSS Compettion Trigger is a better design...

I sang it's praises in a reply above and it would be fantastic if they made the sear fit the gun. I think it probably warps with heat treating. Other wise it's a very good design. Yes it has a compression spring. I probably just got a couple of bad sears, but I've spent enough time and money on trying to get a good one.

Yes Jard should pick through their inventory and get this right. After some research there are more very unhappy people than happy people. Bad mojo.


Have they been purchased by a foreign holding company lately?

Don't beat yourself up too bad RP12. I read revenues, some of which were negative, but I "wanted it to work", so I believed the positIve revues. Like I said above, mine fell apart during installation. The bolt release arm broke off the trigger body. Just one little drop of solder held it on there. Those of you who have them, don't get it caught on your shirt sleeve :( and the finish :( And like two other triggers out there, it is over priced for what you get, in my opinion. I'm now thinking SSS or Savage 2.....:)

I have had the Rifle Basix Sav 2 in my hands and in my opinion it is total junk. When you compare it to a Shilen Trigger for a Rem 700, well there is simply nothing to compare. The shilen is EDM from a piece of high carbon heat treated steel and then finished on the wear surfaces, whereas the Sav 2 looked like a bad MIM part. The pins are loose in the housing and on the trigger and there is no precision of fit at all between the trigger/pin or housing, so copious amounts of slop in all directions. And the Sav 2 costs nearly double what the Shilen does.

I think the only one worthy of further investigation is the one from SSS that one can buy at other retailers, so not have to deal directly with SSS customer service. I have not seen one of the SSS triggers yet. But I have replaced a Sav 1 and a Sav 2 with regular accutriggers...

I have an SSS trigger. I got it before the difficulties with Customer Service. The installation instructions said that I "may" have to remove material from the right side of the trigger housing to make it work. But my trigger housing didn't look like the one in their picture, and the trigger "did" install in my rifle, so I concluded that I "did not" have to modify my trigger housing. But the "safety didn't work". When I tried to contact SSS for help, the Customer Service problems had begun, and I could get no response. I tried adjusting the safety slide, thinking it was too loose, but it didn't help. I went back to the stock trigger, did some work on it, and got it to perform pretty well, while I waited for a solution for the SSS. I have since learned from my Brothers on this site ;-) that, even though the trigger did install in my housing without modification, the notch has to be cut to allow the safety to work! I am now using the SSS trigger and am happy with it. I have learned here that the SSS trigger started life as a Jewel and some say you can't get better than a Jewel trigger. I have high hopes that the Customer Service issues with SSS are now solved, because I want to do some business with them. And we can all rely on each other here at Savage Shooters to solve what ever issues may arrive. ;-)

Good Luck-Good Shooting-And Happy Holidays!.....Jim