Barrel install did I mess up?

So finally got everything to do my barrel install and change out my barrel. After watching a video online and reading I felt fine doing this. Used an action wrench and removed my old barrel. Now the problem is I can't get the new barrel on. It wont thread. I bought a Criterion barrel and I got it to thread once for about a quarter turn then got stuck and removed it. Now every time I try to thread it it just spins. Did i mess up my action? Bit frustrated now.

And even my stock barrel goes on a quarter turn then stops.

Also if it matters its a stevens 200 action small shank barrel/Northland Small shank recoil lug in 308.

Are the threads in the action clean?

Yea they had some blackish oil in them that I just wiped out.

If it is an older Savage action you will more than likely need a new barrel nut. I know when I got my Criterion, I had to use a new barrel nut. The old one would do as you are describing.

Its a new Stevens 200 action. Also bought Northlands barrel nut. The barrel won't screw into the action at all. I dont know if i'm doing something wrong or what. Seemed pretty easy to do when I was reading about it now I'm just frustrated.

How does they old barrel nut thread on the new barrel, I have run into this with a chrome moly action and a ss barrel.

Dean

Loosen your front scope base screws and see if that helps. sometimes the screw stick down into the threads a bit if they are long.

No base and now screws there. Working on posting a video to better describe what I mean.

Sorry hope you don't get sea sick. Hard doing it with one hand. Hope this helps.


sorry made a better one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOAJX...ature=youtu.be

If you got a large shank barrel trying to screw it into a small shank receiver may also cause this condition. The first thread or so on the barrel that have the start taper may go into the receiver but then stop as the diameter of the barrel would be too large to continue into the smaller action. Just a thought......

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Originally Posted by goinssr

If you got a large shank barrel trying to screw it into a small shank receiver may also cause this condition. The first thread or so on the barrel that have the start taper may go into the receiver but then stop as the diameter of the barrel would be too large to continue into the smaller action. Just a thought......

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I had this thought. But I know I asked for the small shank. Also just checked Northland and they don't have the large shank criterion .308 varmit barrel.

Look closely at your threads. May need a magnifying glass or something. Check to see if at the peak of the thread (check barrel and action) appears to have two peaks (for lack of a better way to put it).

I had a Savage Bolt body that when the BAS was screwing back in it gave similar results. With the BAS, it would thread in perfect one time, and then the next it would barely start, or not at all. Upon examining the female threads, it appeared to have two peaks to each thread. Sometimes it would go into one peak and stop, sometimes it hit the right one and worked great. Only reason for this I figure is the bolt body slipped slightly out of time in the chuck when it was being cut in the lathe at the factory. Possibly the same thing has happened with your action.

Just spit-balling ideas here.

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

Look closely at your threads. May need a magnifying glass or something. Check to see if at the peak of the thread (check barrel and action) appears to have two peaks (for lack of a better way to put it).

I had a Savage Bolt body that when the BAS was screwing back in it gave similar results. With the BAS, it would thread in perfect one time, and then the next it would barely start, or not at all. Upon examining the female threads, it appeared to have two peaks to each thread. Sometimes it would go into one peak and stop, sometimes it hit the right one and worked great. Only reason for this I figure is the bolt body slipped slightly out of time in the chuck when it was being cut in the lathe at the factory. Possibly the same thing has happened with your action.

Just spit-balling ideas here.

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Awesome will check that out. Sadly not magnifying glass. Another thing I noticed. Stevens has this little balls put into the threads. I was just removing move old barrel nut and all these sand like balls started to come out. Wondering if they are still caught in the action.

Very possible. I have not encountered those yet, but heard of others having issues with those "balls."

Looking closer the barrel turns to this line seem on the left side of the picture. It seems to be getting stuck turning there. Any ideas?

http://i50.tinypic.com/4sinbp.jpg

I assume you mean the groove cut perpendictular to the threads when you say line?

I am still wondering about those "balls" you mentioned. If you think that could be it, try some aresol action/barrel cleaner and an old toothbrush and be sure they are all scrubbed out.

Does the old original barrel nut screw on and off. I know you said the new one did. Just spit balling thoughts and eliminating possibilities.

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

I assume you mean the groove cut perpendictular to the threads when you say line?

I am still wondering about those "balls" you mentioned. If you think that could be it, try some aresol action/barrel cleaner and an old toothbrush and be sure they are all scrubbed out.

Does the old original barrel nut screw on and off. I know you said the new one did. Just spit balling thoughts and eliminating possibilities.

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scrubber them all out and the threads look clear. Just used the original stevens barrel nut and went on to the new barrel fine.

This is getting frustrating, can't figure this out.

could be that the threads are a little more "proud" or sharper than they need to be. Perhaps a light treatment with some fine grit sandpaper or steel wool could make it fit? If it were my barrel, I would probably try this, but proceed slowly and at your own discression if you do. Maybe a bad idea, but it's an idea....

You may need to take a small sharp pick and go through the threads to makes there is no hardened gunk in there. Clean with brake parks cleaner and wire brush. Wipe easily with toilet paper to see if you can detect any burrs. Burrs will sometimes cause the toilet paper to leave frays behind. Do the same to the threads on the barrel.

If the threads check out you should apply a thick lube like STP or gear oil to the barrel threads. Stainless steel will gall is no lube is used.

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Originally Posted by JCalhoun

You may need to take a small sharp pick and go through the threads to makes there is no hardened gunk in there. Clean with brake parks cleaner and wire brush. Wipe easily with toilet paper to see if you can detect any burrs. Burrs will sometimes cause the toilet paper to leave frays behind. Do the same to the threads on the barrel.

If the threads check out you should apply a thick lube like STP or gear oil to the barrel threads. Stainless steel will gall is no lube is used.

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Will give this a go. Have the day off tomorrow may bring it to my local guns smith and pay him to do it. Getting to that point where I'm not feeling like a DIY'er

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Originally Posted by teebirdhyzer

could be that the threads are a little more "proud" or sharper than they need to be. Perhaps a light treatment with some fine grit sandpaper or steel wool could make it fit? If it were my barrel, I would probably try this, but proceed slowly and at your own discression if you do. Maybe a bad idea, but it's an idea....

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Even the stock barrel I removed only screws in a quarter turn. I don't think its the threads.

Do the threads look stripped?

Where are you located?

I'm located in Boston MA, Threads don't look stripped. Just ran a pick through it. Don't have any brake cleaner but everything appears smooth. ran the toliet paper over it and it seemed fine, Snagged alittle bit but at the groove in the picture.

Think I'm going to throw in the towel on this one. I'm stumped.

Did you try they chrome moly barrel nut, on the new barrel? I bet you it wont thread, when I order my custom barrels, I always specify it is going in to a chrome moly action, it makes a difference is has to do with thread pitch.

Tanks Dean

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Originally Posted by tacticalpanda

I was just removing move old barrel nut and all these sand like balls started to come out. Wondering if they are still caught in the action.

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Those little balls are the steel ball used to peen the outside surface of the metal prior to blueing. They get caught up in the threads and the bluing salts make them stick there. Go over all your threads, inside and out with some solvent (I used Kroil) and a toothpick and pick them out one by one. They will keep the barrel from threading on if they are in the threads. Compressed air or canned air for cleaning computers may help, but in my case I have had to pick them out manually.

When you clean out the threads in the receiver and the old barrel, see if it will screw back in by hand. Then try the new one.

Also, if you have calipers, measure the outside diameter of the threads just to make sure it is not a large shank barrel. Stranger things have happened.

The old CM barrle nut fits on the SS barrel fine. I went through and cleaned out the threads on the action about 1/4 of the way down. Still only goes 1/4 turn in then stops. Will pick up some solvent, but was planning on picking up a gun or two tomorrow so I may take this with me and see if they can work on it.

Thanks for all the ideas. Keep em coming if you got it. I hate giving up on stuff.

I'd still try cleaning the threads with brake parts cleaner and wire brush then give the threads a good coating of STP or gear oil.

If that doesn't work, you are fairly close to the Savage factory in Westfield, MA. It might be worth it to give them a try.

Will try in the morning. Will keep playing with it tonight.

Did the receiver ring some how become twisted or distorted when you removed the original barrel? That could make the barrels start cocked when you try to screw them in.

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Originally Posted by JCalhoun

Did the receiver ring some how become twisted or distorted when you removed the original barrel? That could make the barrels start cocked when you try to screw them in.

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I hope not. I tried to check by living up the optics screws on top and they seem to line up. Is there any way to tell? I hope I don't have a $300 paper weight.

It would be hard to check without something machinist oriented.

I don't think that would be the problem though.

after cleaning your threads very good try putting pressure on the barrel towards the receiver while turning it backwards. After turning a bit you should feel it "click" as the threads drop into place. When you feel it drop then start turning it the correct way and see if it'll thread in for you. A lot of times it is hard to get the threads tarted correctly on large, fine threaded bolts (or in this case, barrel) and that's theold trick I've always used.

It is very easy to cross thread a fine threaded fastener like this and usually it's not enough to cause any issues of strength, but it is enough to make it a pain to thread together!


Did any of that make sense?

OK guys finally got it. Put it back int he action wrench and tried to put the old barrel in. Started to turn then kept trying as hard as possible and it started to finally go in. Got it half way in the pulled it back out put the new one in and it twisted all the way in.

Thanks for the help. I think it was from cleaning the threads over and over with a steel pick. Now i Need some STP and should be good to go.

You've "rolled" the first thread in the reciever. You'll need a strong dental pic or a tap to fix it... otherwise off to a machine shop to have them chase the thread. I've seen it happen before. easy fix if you have the tool(s).

You didnt' have the shank and action threads aligned when you first tried to screw it on.... caused the first thread to roll...

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Originally Posted by kaferhaus

You've "rolled" the first thread in the reciever. You'll need a strong dental pic or a tap to fix it... otherwise off to a machine shop to have them chase the thread. I've seen it happen before. easy fix if you have the tool(s).

You didnt' have the shank and action threads aligned when you first tried to screw it on.... caused the first thread to roll...

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Sounds about right. Rather than pay a smith or machine shop, order your self something like this:

http://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_359A.pdf

and then you'll have it for the future for less.

If that receiver is clamped in an action wrench as you are trying to screw in the new barrel it is likely a bit too tight. Don't ask how I know that.

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Originally Posted by goinssr

If that receiver is clamped in an action wrench as you are trying to screw in the new barrel it is likely a bit too tight. Don't ask how I know that.

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I actually found that out too. Should be all good now though.

Thanks again for all your help everyone.

You're welcome.

I was installing a new barrel on my 110 action. I had cleaned and degresed the threads and had the same problem. Hit the threads with some Permatex Anti Sieze and it screwed right on by hand.

Every aftermarket Savage drop in bbl Ive bought had to be hit w.sandpaper to knock the threads down then screwed right in.
Even the bbl nut fit it perfectly, but would not screw in past 2 turns when I tried the bbl before knocking them down.

I've only done one barrel. I did it under the watchful eye of the guy who does it a lot, for a living.

I was warned about clamping the action wrench down too tight and warping the action and I was warned about cross threading. Luckily I did the spin backwards till click thing before I tried to screw it in. Never had an issue with it even attempting to bind. Granted, it was a shilen barrel, and I've always considered them to be a top teir barrel... I have no experience with any of the other barrels.