Elftmann Savage Trigger

I got this trigger and have been working with it. Out of the box, with the pull weight set screw engaged by only 1 thread, it broke at about 1 1/4 pounds. I removed the original spring and replaced it with a shorter ink pen spring, and got it down a little less than a pound. During this testing, I noticed some creep. The “step” that the Savage sear has to traverse, is .026”. Only about .012”/.014” is needed for good engagement. No matter how I set it, I have not got it to bump fire. I have closed the bolt with some authority, and it still doesn’t trip fire. Not sure, but I think the Savage sear is responsible for the creep. This trigger has adjustment only for pull weight and safety adjustment. It has no adjustment for sear engagement or over travel. I ordered some springs and did some experimenting, got it a little lighter, but still not where I want it to be. Found a lighter spring, ordered 4, received 6. This spring got it to just above 8 ounces. Now we’re getting somewhere.

I wondered what what it would do with the spring and piston removed. When the bolt cocked, the trigger set. Bumping the action against the Terazo floor didn’t trip it. On My Wheeler spring gauge, it broke at less than 8ozs, call it 6. I lubricated the sear edge and trigger shelf with graphite, and it broke at half way between 0 and 8ozs, call it 4 ounces. I decided I like using the straight trigger blade, without either of the included Trigger Shoes installed. With My finger at the bottom of the blade, it gives maximum leverage. I will continue to work with it and dry fire, if it will continue to operate at 4 ounces, I will declare success. At this setting, there was no noticeable creep.

A trigger set this low will only be used on a “Cold Range”. Bolts installed only after muzzles facing a safe direction and the command given. I’ll have to do a temperature check, because I once adjusted a trigger at 75 degrees, and when I took it out in 40 degrees, it tripped when I closed the bolt.

The spring that got it to 8ozs came from Century Spring Corp., MW Industries, Inc. CSC Item 60567S, Description COMP O= 0.148,L=0.357,W=0.016

Thanks All, any comments or personal experiences heartedly welcome

I see your post is a few years old but I though maybe you could shine some light on this for me….I own the model 12 target action 308 FTR ..original trigger is becoming harder to pull and even cleaning it still not the same. Could you tell me what exact trigger replacement goes with the model 12 FTR target action ….I almost started cutting springs etc and even considered dremel work on it …I know I can fix it but I’m looking for a mint replacement
something better than the accutrigger. Any suggestions?
thank ahead of time I hope. This reaches you

Welcome to the Brotherhood. Actually, My thread is a little over 3 months old. Your rifle has the coveted red blade target trigger. I can’t imagine what could be wrong with it that adjustment can’t fix. Before You cut springs or Dremel, please make sure You understand exactly what You are doing. Those parts are difficult to replace at this time. And there are many who would love to have Your trigger exactly as it is.

Perhaps if You could provide more detail describing Your problem we could be of more help? There are plenty here with vast experience with Your trigger. Do You have a trigger pull weight gauge? What pull weight would be acceptable to You?

The Elftmann Trigger I mention in this thread will work on Your action, as will other Savage triggers, but I don’t know that You really need a replacement. As I said, Your trigger is coveted.

Let Us know, and Good Luck

Well you are right....it’s a great trigger and runs flawlessly however over time the pull weight has increased from
the super light (almost light enough to set off closing the bolt) ounces to what feels like pounds now. The grease (not sure what) that originally was put on the sear but it’s gone now. I’ve tried to use a few different kinds of grease but nothing worked so I cleaned it and used lighter fluid ( this cleans it as well as leaves a thin lube). Do you think a new spring kit could fix the problem?

https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=LP-250https://www.jprifles.com/cart_pix/ph/4190.jpg

That has me curious. I wonder if regular anti-seize will work as well? I think an experiment is in my future :)

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Originally Posted by DML1979

Well you are right....it’s a great trigger and runs flawlessly however over time the pull weight has increased from
the super light (almost light enough to set off closing the bolt) ounces to what feels like pounds now. The grease (not sure what) that originally was put on the sear but it’s gone now. I’ve tried to use a few different kinds of grease but nothing worked so I cleaned it and used lighter fluid ( this cleans it as well as leaves a thin lube). Do you think a new spring kit could fix the problem?

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I wonder if it is the sear surfaces that are the issue. Maybe a burr has developed on one side? Or is the bolt spring binding somehow causing more tension on the bolt side.

^^ Could be something like this. We know this trigger can work and work well.
A while back I got a 12FV that came with some of that thin black grease slathered on the sear and blade. I left it there and the trigger, to My surprise, adjusted down to 13 ounces.

But this is My thread, and it is about the ELFTMANN Trigger. So please Gentleman, let’s not lead it too far astray.

Thanks, GG :cool:

I shot a couple of 600 and 1,000 yard matches in April and May using the Elftmann trigger, set at 8ozs. I didn’t want to shoot the matches at 4ozs without the spring and piston, because if it caused a DQ, the money invested in travel and entry fees would have been waisted. Also, I had the trigger installed in a 6BRA that I haven’t gotten dialed in yet, so it’s not My best shooting rifle at this time. The rifle shot as well as expected and the trigger didn’t cause any noticeable issues.

I need to put the necessary time in to work with this trigger, and shoot it in a rifle that is known to have winning accuracy. That may not happen until the Fall. In the mean time, I can continue to work with it and dry fire, and see what progress can be made. And, I can use this time to locate a lighter spring that would allow the piston to be used and still keep the 4oz pull weight. That would give Me more confidence in a match. GG

TTT, Rejuvenating this thread because of current interest .

I'd add to @grebguy s excellent info and document an easy and cheap source for a lighter replacement spring for the Elfmann Savage 110 trigger.
I just installed the Elfmann Savage 110 flat trigger into my 12BVSS ( bench rifle) with a lighter McMaster Carr #9657K611 spring in place of the factory one. Turns out the new spring is near identical in every way with the exception of wire diameter. The factory Elfmann uses a 0.021" D wire and this one uses 0.014"D. Consequently, the new spring is a direct , drop in replacement but significantly lighter. See comparison below.
For the record, all I did was to swap out the spring and installed the trigger. Nothing else was done in the way of polishing/fitting. While it had the ability to go lower, my Elfmann trigger is now adjusted to as a safe , crisp and consistent (+/- 0.5 oz) 12.5 oz which is just where I want it.
Link to replacement spring:


https://www.mcmaster.com/9657K611/
Attachment 9670

I should note in full disclosure that I feel there are some "issues" with the trigger. Most notably, there are two:
1) It's noisy/gritty. The detent piece was not smooth/polished and emits a fairly loud scratchy sound when activated. I don't hear it on the short travel trigger pull/break but it delivers a moderate rasping sound when you pull the trigger in an uncocked scenario( like when removing the bolt.) I have no doubt that this unnecessary grittyness is NOT good in a trigger system but admit I could have got a bad part. ( This part should have been tumble polished at teh factory!) I've contacted CS.
2) The tiny screw that holds the shoe to the blade could be problematic. It's uses a minute Allen key to tighten the shoe so that it squeezes onto the blade to hold it in place. This screw seems like it could strip out easily. the problem being is that the shoe is just wide enough that it will not fit through the trigger slot in the stock. i.e. The blade must be removed every time the stock comes off. If that screw gets stuck in there, it's going to take a drill (and allot of nerve) to get the gun apart. This is a poor design of a critical path component in the opinion of this retired Mechanical Engineer.
Don't get me wrong, the ELF trigger works well but it's not perfect. We'll see what their CS department says about all this.

Update: Eleftmann CS told me to send the trigger back to them for rebuild/repair. The trigger was just too crunchy and noisy to keep as is so I sprang for the $11 to ship it to them ( They provided no shipping.) They got it today so I should know soon what they intend to do. I'm my mind, I don't see how it can be repaired. I'm hoping for a complete replacement . As for the trigger shoe, I'll either leave it off or grind the 0.010" off the sides required to get it to slip through the trigger guard. All disappointing to say the least. Stand by.

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Originally Posted by WeeHooker

I should note in full disclosure that I feel there are some "issues" with the trigger. Most notably, there are two:
1) It's noisy/gritty. The detent piece was not smooth/polished and emits a fairly loud scratchy sound when activated. I don't hear it on the short travel trigger pull/break but it delivers a moderate rasping sound when you pull the trigger in an uncocked scenario( like when removing the bolt.) I have no doubt that this unnecessary grittyness is NOT good in a trigger system but admit I could have got a bad part. ( This part should have been tumble polished at teh factory!) I've contacted CS.
2) The tiny screw that holds the shoe to the blade could be problematic. It's uses a minute Allen key to tighten the shoe so that it squeezes onto the blade to hold it in place. This screw seems like it could strip out easily. the problem being is that the shoe is just wide enough that it will not fit through the trigger slot in the stock. i.e. The blade must be removed every time the stock comes off. If that screw gets stuck in there, it's going to take a drill (and allot of nerve) to get the gun apart. This is a poor design of a critical path component in the opinion of this retired Mechanical Engineer.
Don't get me wrong, the ELF trigger works well but it's not perfect. We'll see what their CS department says about all this.

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Reading your posts i recognize a couple of issues that could/may have impacted your experience. read your post and see if anything stands out.

LOL! I see some issues.. One shooter drops $150 on this trigger & immediately starts replacing parts and wanting to alter it. The 2nd shooter drops $150 on it and ends up not liking it. It’s the only aftermarket trigger which does not use a Sear adjustment. To me that is reason for dismissal.

LOL! $150 is nothing in this game. Not even 1 years hazmat fees or shipping cost. Since when is altering or modifying anything Savage a big deal? LOL!

I have to modify. I go into "TILT" mode if can't figit with it

ROFLMAO

Yep. The engineer's creed. If it's broke it needs to be fixed. If it isn't broke, it needs to be improved.

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Originally Posted by charlie b

ROFLMAO

Yep. The engineer's creed. If it's broke it needs to be fixed. If it isn't broke, it needs to be improved.

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Haha! Yep!

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Originally Posted by charlie b

ROFLMAO

Yep. The engineer's creed. If it's broke it needs to be fixed. If it isn't broke, it needs to be improved.

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My interest in the Elftmann Trigger, or any other Savage Trigger, is to acquire a trigger that is suitable for bench rest competition. I am not an engineer, but I am a Millwright (retired). Our job is to fix it, and if possible, improve it. Anyone competing in Light Gun and Heavy Gun with a Savage platform, is at a considerable disadvantage because of the trigger (or lack there of). We have to deal with the mechanical disadvantage, which translates to a mental disadvantage. There are so few of Us in the Brotherhood who compete, its nice to hear from those who do.

Oh I’m all about modifying, (even though I’ve been accused of having someone else making the things I post). But I like modifying stock components or making things from scratch. I don’t enjoy spending money, to then spend more time/money to change it. If I’m making a purchase, I research up/down, sideways and here & there until I find exactly what I want & know it will work correctly. Except with 1911 triggers..because that’s just the nature of building a 1911. (Every part needs fit with them.) This is why I haven’t purchased any of the aftermarket Savage triggers to this point. None have shown to me, to offer a great deal more performance than a properly worked factory trigger. I was quite hopeful of the Jard, but it soon showed the “kinks” in its armor. Although I’m confident I could work it into a decent performing trigger, it’s just not worth the $220 for the slight increase in performance I might get over my stock trigger. And to be honest, I do enjoy a Safe Action trigger like the Accutrigger. They offer 100% defense against accidental discharge. It simply cannot fire unless the trigger is pulled. Same reason I love Firing Pin Blocks (FPB) in pistols. I think more than a few people would be quite surprised with how pleasant my worked Accutriggers feel. THAT is the kind of modification I really enjoy. Taking either materials or something stock and modifying to perform within a very close margin to the best money can buy. I know many of us here do the same and understand how gratifying it is.

Despite those feelings of mine, I’m glad for anyone who is happy with their purchase. But the fact remains in this thread that one person was quite happy, (although they altered the original). And one person was, it seems, quite unhappy, resulting in the product being sent back for a look. I hope we here the outcome.

So here is the outcome.
I shipped the trigger back on my dime and they had it for over a week. When I inquired, they said they were waiting on "parts from Oxide". Yet, when I got it back Monday, it appears to be the same trigger I sent them with a note that they lubricated the detent and I should do the same. ( Parts were lose in bag, center screw had my Loctite on it, no Loctite on detent spring retaining screw, missing wrench's. IF they replaced anything, they did a good job of keeping it a secret. ) It was still somewhat "crunchy" sounding out of the bag. When installed, (no adjustment) it seemed to work "OK" to about 20 oz but is still noisy when cycled in non cocked position ( even after a little moly grease in the detent hole)..
So I AM an engineer. ( Mechanical /Systems with 33+ years experience of design, prototype and support in military weapon systems) and will say that the issue with the trigger shoe component is by design. Specifically, The shoe is 0.045" wider than the inside of the mod 12 trigger guard so it will not fit through (even if the trigger guard is removed and rotated) . Therefor , the shoe has to be installed/removed every time the action is removed /installed. There is NO way around it unless you leave the shoe off and just use the blade.
To further exacerbate things the shoe is intended to be clamped onto the blade via a small screw with a TINY (0.05") hex key arrangement. It takes some decent torque ( as in bending the wrench) to tighten the shoe and keep it from moving. The screw is clearly under designed as well. I feel it's just a matter of time before the screw head strips out and leaves the owner with having to cut the trigger blade out of an assembled rifle. If you wanted to use the shoe, the best alternative would be to file the trigger guard opening (at least on a Mod 12) . FWIW, the trigger does break pretty cleanly (with no crunch). BTW, It does have a rudimentary adjustment for sear engagement too but I haven't messed with it. After initial test, I changed the spring and now have a decently crisp 13 oz pull ( without shoe installed which is how I will run it)
Summary: For the $150+ invested, and the issues encountered, I would not buy another. However, it's better than the factory trigger as issued. Especially after a spring change. Maybe I'll replace it with another brand at some point but I'll try it awhile first.

https://www.elftactical.com/ELF-SAVA...gger_p_48.html

I am glad you made those observations. I probably would not have bought one simply because of the trigger shoe. Have never been a fan of one. I'd do as you have and just leave the shoe off.

What do you mean a rudimentary adjustment for the sear? The 2 adjustments I see on it are on the back, one for the trigger spring & one for the safety. Is there a third not shown? Can you expound please?

Yes. As for Me, the shoe contributes nothing. I have absolutely no use for it, and therefore, don’t use it. But since it is unnecessary and optional, it is no reason not to buy the trigger, if it can suit your purpose.

I have considered, and may yet, add a shim to the sear shelf, to reduce the height to about .014”. We have done this in the past, successfully, with older stock triggers. When done successfully, it actually works better than a rinky dink screw sticking up through the sear.

Doing that is just asking for an accidental discharge. Rinky dink screw sticking up through the ??… trigger I think you meant, as the Sear simply rides overtop the screw. Actually a screw used to raise or lower the Sear shelf of the trigger is a proven concept. Especially since all aftermarket triggers, with the exception of Jard, use the factory Sear. The Savage factory Sears are inconsistent to say the least. One may respond to .018” shelf belt height, where as another may need .020” for a safe purchase.

It’s interesting the case you continue making for this trigger, despite it’s many shortcomings. Human nature is such a peculiar thing. We feel the need to justify the cost of purchases we’ve made. I’m not singling out one person. We all do this at one time or another.

This is the “COMPETITIVE SHOOTING” Forum. As I said in post #1 of My thread, My interest in the Elftmann trigger is to find a trigger that fills My needs for Bench Rest Competition. We assure safety by observing “Cold Range” protocol. That means no bolts installed until the RSO gives the command “install bolts”, after all muzzles are pointed at the berm. Triggers for this purpose don’t rely on safeties or anything else to insure a safe range. Just the Cold Range Protocol. The next command is “Commence Firing”. An Unintended Discharge merely means you will likely miss your POA, or DQ. Nothing unsafe. My interest in this trigger does not apply to “Any Other Form Of Shooting”. Work on any trigger at your own risk.


Yes, I meant the trigger, not the sear, My Girl Friend had the radio blaring.

I have been using this Elftmann Trigger in a 35# Heavy Gun, and it performs about as well as anything else I have used, in that application. Which is the SSS Competition, RB Sav II, Jard 1 & Current Jard (both back in the box on a shelf), and of course all of the factory triggers Savage has offered.

I feel triggers and fire control has Savage Bench Rest competitors at a considerable disadvantage. Like LoneWolf and other competitors who used to post here, I find Myself drifting in another direction.

Well, obviously for high level competition, ultimately a custom is the way people go. It’s like that for many sports though. People like custom gear for competition. Simple as that. However, I believe many people out there greatly overestimate their own prowess. Like the avid Golf player who spends several thousand $$ to have a set of custom clubs made fir their “club level” of play. Not going to improve their score, but sure makes ‘em feel better & look more legit. The same holds true for shooting sports; probably over other sports/hobbies. Yet there are guys like Fuj’ showing everyone what a Savage can do in competition. (And never thinking of himself as one of the Elite level shooters on this Earth.

Also: While a good trigger can help a person’s accuracy to a point, there is a level of diminishing returns.

As for Myself, I have read every post Fuj has typed, that I can find, and greatly appreciated every one of them. His 2 7mm wildcats seem very promising, and I wish them great success. At the moment, 6mm’s are leading the organizations that I participate in, but that could change in a heartbeat. In My experience in IBS and GBA, I have never encountered anyone who “thought of himself as one of the ELETE LEVEL shooters on the earth”. Not even the top shooters in the endeavor. It is a very humbling sport. Especially for a lowly Savage shooter. I, and others, appreciate everything guys like Fuj shares that helps us get better. In fact, I hope to run into Fuj at Harry Jones or Whitehorse sometime when He decides to shoot Long Range IBS or GBA. One would think those willing to go up against the worlds best with a Savage, might be appreciated on this site, rather than maligned. Even if it’s not very smart.

If there is a Savage trigger that has reached the level of diminishing returns, I have yet to see it.

No one was being critical of Gary. Read my post again. My comment was in admiration of his skill. And continuing to compete with Savage rifles. It’s inspiring.

But somehow I think you already knew what I meant & your post in fact had an ulterior motive.

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I believe many people out there greatly overestimate their own prowess. Like the avid Golf player who spends several thousand $$ to have a set of custom clubs made fir their “club level” of play. Not going to improve their score, but sure makes ‘em feel better & look more legit.

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I agree. The internet is full of internet experts that pretend to be experts when actually, very little to none of their knowledge was earned but was plagiarized. What is wrong with people.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I agree. The internet is full of internet experts that pretend to be experts when actually, very little to none of their knowledge was earned but was plagiarized. What is wrong with people.

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Present company excluded, We hope ! LOL

WeeHooker, those of Us interested in the Elftmann Trigger are few out here. Please let Us know Your future results and if it meets Your expectations. I have never been able to get the Elftmann to bump fire, even with the spring and piston removed (not recommending this). It has shown to be very safe.

Same here.

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Originally Posted by GrenGuy

Present company excluded, We hope ! LOL

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Obviously I was referring to myself!

I wish I could comment on the Elfman but I can't. I chased all the brands but this one,
and put the stock red blade back in. I did keep the heavier Timney's for other projects.
I guess maybe it's just that the stock trigger works so well for me in a heavy gun. I just
wish I would have put that money elsewhere, but you never know till you try something.
I did not post up the Pa, Tack Driver Lite match yet but of the 48 shooters, I was in the
top 10 early on then the winds struck and struck hard. Two of my 5 relays were a complete
disaster with shots in the 8 and 7 rings. Wind was some of the worst I've seen. I did manage
a 28 out of 48.....First relay, I was shooting 7/8th" groups with that stock trigger in light wind.
One thing about triggers.....Even a 2 ounce Jewel sucks in heavy wind !! Note.....2 of the
range windsocks are rated for 17 mph. After the first relay, they were stretched straight out
and switching directions frantically. The poles they were mounted on were leaning !!!!

Will do, Sir. Unfortunately, I have not made it to the range to test/shoot. However, the trigger does seem to be very consistent ( with spring change and set at 13 oz ). It also passes bump testing here just fine. As I think I eluded too in my last post, I suspect it will work fine for my informal bench shooting to 300 yds. I'm more disappointed in the failure of initial quality, customer service and the shoe design than actual function. I'll post back here after I get a chance to run it a bit. Tight groups!

Fuj, its always good to hear of Your shooting experiences and see the results of Your extensive talent. You and I are competing in different disciplines, but We both appreciate the need for an acceptable trigger, which is a very personal thing. I could make Myself use the Red Blade, but it would be difficult to get it out of My head that it’s really not what I want. Yes, bad conditions is a perfect example of where a good trigger is desirable. One way to approach it is, “pick” Your shots when the wind flags drop, which may only be for a couple of seconds, chamber the round, get on target, and touch it off without disturbing the rifle, before the cold, switching winds return and blow Your hat off. I think as simple as the Elftmann design is, they could provide the solution if they really tried. But when I spoke with them about what I was doing, they were very apprehensive. I guess that is understandable when You consider that it was the trigger that put remington out of business. I will continue the search, and appreciate any help along the way. Thanks for Your input.

WeeHooker, I suspect You may be the victim of post covid quality deterioration?? Seems nothing is as good as it was before covid. The only two things I can imagine could cause the condition You described, is the bearing or the condition of the sear blade. There could have been foreign material in the sealed bearing. This is a main feature of the trigger, and certainly should have been corrected when You sent it back, if it was the problem. But every Savage trigger I have seen needed the sear blade “honed”. They were all rough as a cob. Could be Your source of trouble? As simple as the Elftmann Trigger is, there isn’t much that can go wrong. Tight Groups To You Too !

edit: as for the shoe design, I prefer to use the trigger without the use of the shoe at all. That’s a simple solution to that. But that’s just Me.

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Originally Posted by Fuj'

I wish I could comment on the Elfman but I can't. I chased all the brands but this one,
and put the stock red blade back in. I did keep the heavier Timney's for other projects.
I guess maybe it's just that the stock trigger works so well for me in a heavy gun. I just
wish I would have put that money elsewhere, but you never know till you try something.
I did not post up the Pa, Tack Driver Lite match yet but of the 48 shooters, I was in the
top 10 early on then the winds struck and struck hard. Two of my 5 relays were a complete
disaster with shots in the 8 and 7 rings. Wind was some of the worst I've seen. I did manage
a 28 out of 48.....First relay, I was shooting 7/8th" groups with that stock trigger in light wind.
One thing about triggers.....Even a 2 ounce Jewel sucks in heavy wind !! Note.....2 of the
range windsocks are rated for 17 mph. After the first relay, they were stretched straight out
and switching directions frantically. The poles they were mounted on were leaning !!!!

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Was waiting to hear about that Fuj’. Wow..Brutal wind. And, yeah, the wind doesn’t care WHAT trigger is used; it really does make things a game of “chance” over skill. Still, sounds like you did well all things considered. More importantly, did you enjoy yourself regardless? I couldn’t agree more with your sentiment on aftermarket triggers. Luckily, because trigger setup was the first thing I learned over 2 decades ago, the attitude of modify over buy really stuck with me. So I at least haven’t wasted money chasing the “perfect” aftermarket trigger. Instead, I’ve wasted that money on other items, LOL!

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

More importantly, did you enjoy yourself regardless?

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Mixed feelings on it. I shot my short game rifle that I did not intend to. The SA284 wildcat
I had planned on is still not finished, and was being built for this particular match, knowing
that the conditions at this particular range can get rough. It's kinda like bowling with a 16lb.
ball to knock the pins down, but tournament day comes and there is only a 12 lb, ball to work
with. It is what it is and ya' gotta' keep steppin'.....

Sorry to hear Fuj, but, glad you started out well.

I'd consider 7's and 8's to be a great day in the wind. :)

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Originally Posted by Fuj'

Mixed feelings on it. I shot my short game rifle that I did not intend to. The SA284 wildcat
I had planned on is still not finished, and was being built for this particular match, knowing
that the conditions at this particular range can get rough. It's kinda like bowling with a 16lb.
ball to knock the pins down, but tournament day comes and there is only a 12 lb, ball to work
with. It is what it is and ya' gotta' keep steppin'.....

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Sorry for that my friend... I know you were excited about your new wildcat 284. I was looking forward to seeing its use. BTW, what’s the problem with it? Not being ready I mean?

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Sorry for that my friend... I know you were excited about your new wildcat 284. I was looking forward to seeing its use. BTW, what’s the problem with it? Not being ready I mean?

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New 3 groove Lilja needs chambered and crowned. I pulled the Brux as it had it's day and wanted
to start fresh for the season.....My lathe is down for bearing replacements. Gunsmith buddy of mine
closed shop to relocate, and his lathe is still not wired up. The guy that bought his old lathe
and promised to help out, backed out at the last minute for reasons unknown. He's on my sh1t list.
and knows it. My SA284 shoots. I've won with it in Unlimited UBR and made AAA at Ridgway's VBR
match first time out and in bad weather.....I just need some patience, and it is what it is.

As for triggers ?? I put a Timney 10 ounce in a CZ-457 22lr. It was the simplest install I have ever
done on any rifle.

Fuj, I’m thinking Your SA284 could be competitive out to 600 yards. Yes or No ?

Maybe if You installed an Elftmann Trigger modified to 8 ounces You could put all of those SA284’s in the x ring ??

Whada Ya Think !!!

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Originally Posted by GrenGuy

Fuj, I’m thinking Your SA284 could be competitive out to 600 yards. Yes or No ?

Maybe if You installed an Elftmann Trigger modified to 8 ounces You could put all of those SA284’s in the x ring ??

Whada Ya Think !!!

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Never pursued long range paper, but shot a lot of steel out to a thousand. Best group out of the SA284 with
183 gr SMK's is .670" in dead calm wind at 500 yards with the stock trigger at 15 ounces, 22 lb rifle, 30" Brux.
Going to try a Lilja this time around.

What's the X-Ring size at 600, and rifle limits ?? I have friends that shoot down in your region and over in
Williamsport that always bug me about it. You may have met Shelly and Steve Brennen. For the time being
I'm more of a short range score shooter favoring UBR 100, 200, and 300.

Fuj, the x ring in IBS 600yd is 1.180” (My measurement, not offical). With Your.284, You “could”shoot a 1.464” group and score a 50-5x. As You know, the AGG is everything in competition. But Your Wildcat could be the next new thing. Would love to see what it can do in a 600yd. Match. Will be watching You, regardless.

Shelly and Steve sound familiar, but I can’t place them at the moment. You may have run into Fred and Jim Cali? They are more up Your way, and they shoot various venues.

Saw Your Anderson Creek post. Fun stuff Huh !!!

edit: IBS & GBA Light Gun is 17#’s. Heavy Gun is Unlimited.

edit: Fuj, it turns out we have at least one shooting friend in common. Jack Balon! Most people in this game are great folks, and Jack is one of the best. He has helped Me out immensely. Not to mention, He is one fantastic competitor. When You run into the bugman, tell Him “hello” from the Rat Rifle!
You have to be beaming with pride over that Grandson of Yours !!!

I have an Elftman trigger for my Axis II Precision, got light primer hits with it. Would not fire. Put the OEM trigger back in and it works. Was not happy with this so it the bag in the drawer it sits.

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Originally Posted by Scttschnd

I have an Elftman trigger for my Axis II Precision, got light primer hits with it. Would not fire. Put the OEM trigger back in and it works. Was not happy with this so it the bag in the drawer it sits.

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Yes, we had discussed your situation before Scott. Look, I’m not a fan of the Elftmann personally, but your situation is due to your limited understanding of the trigger function. The Sear is binding on the trigger, which is slowing its travel. It’s likely due to too little overtravel, as was mentioned. That’s all. This is easily fixed, again, with expert knowledge of trigger/Sear function. I’m sorry it hasn’t worked for you. I still prefer my modified Accutriggers over anything else.

Edit: one other thing I realized, people don’t like buying products only to find things need to be modified. It’s not expected in these times. But understand, while we have the luxury of Prefit barrel & such, Savages are not AR15’s or Glocks! Things don’t always go perfectly and may need a bit of fitting or modification. You know, years ago when I started building 1911’s, an aftermarket Trigger, Sear, Disconnector & Hammer are purchased, then each piece would need hand fit to function correctly. So ya have to spend like $200 in parts, and then either know how to or pay a Gunsmith to install the parts. There were virtually no Prefit parts for the 1911 years ago. I just think sometimes it’s expectations which are the problem.