I too am having Accutrigger problems

I have a 10 FCP-K, bottom bolt release and cocking indicator in .308. Awhile back I had lessened the trigger spring tension and the rifle worked fairly well. I then bought an Oryx chassis and was having extreme difficulties installing the barreled action into it. Oryx/MDT sent me a new chassis and Was having the same issue. I then figured the pin that held the trigger assy to the action was in backward and was binding. I flipped the pin and was able to easily install it. I had never removed that before so no clue as to how it was flipped.

While changing the pin, the trigger assy came apart and it took me awhile to figure out how it went back together. I am not sure I got it completely correct as now I have serious issues with the Accutrigger locking up. I set the spring tension to the max and it still makes no difference. It will lock up just closing the bolt.

Does anyone with this type of configuration have any pictures of trigger assy and especially where all springs go and their orientation. Not sure this is the problem, just making sure. I don't necessarily want to buy a new trigger for this as I am currently playing with my new 110 Precision in 6.5 CR.

Any clues?

Barry

Barry,
i am brand new to savage shooters. I noticed your thread. I am a novice with rifles. I have a savage 10T-SR purchased last year. I had the trigger pull weight dropped to ~ 10 ounces from 30 ozs. After putting the trigger assembly back on the action and testing the trigger the sear will not move with or without the sear spring. I have a bottom bolt release. i cannot locate any videos or photos that may help. Likewise i am not sure of the orientation of the sear spring.
Thanks!

Here ya go. Not disassembly, but you can see the how the spring is oriented.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTEJb5CQQTg

Edit: Found this pic that was posted by one of the members here.
https://i.ibb.co/6XTfP9w/0-A090-CD0-...E8-DC74-AF.jpg

So according to that video I have the accutrigger installed correctly. The pin that holds it to the action on the video is how mine was set up but would not fit into the Oryx chassis and I had to reverse it.

This still makes no sense on why I cannot make the accutrigger work better even when tension is added to make trigger pull stiffer. Only thing I can think of is the sear is worn and just will not hold. I have 1235 +/- through this rifle, did not keep good records for the first 100/300 but am close.

Barry

Does the trigger work when the action is out of the stock?

Works the same whether or not it is in the chassis. I was having this problem also in the accustock.

Barry

So, what is the exact problem you are having with the action out of stock? Please explain in detail.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

So, what is the exact problem you are having with the action out of stock? Please explain in detail.

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It works the same whether in the stock or not. The trigger pull is so light, even when adjusted for a heavier trigger pull or lightest. Adjust all the way light, it will not stay cocked and with it adjusted as heavily as it can it will barely stay cocked. Not sure if the sear engagement surfaces are worn down, but with less than 2000 rounds I would think it should still work. I may end up going with an aftermarket trigger but I would like this one to work.

Barry

I will guess that the sear return spring is not installed correctly.
Does the bolt release feel normal when releasing the bolt? The sear spring sounds like it is not returning the sear with full spring force.
Do you have pictures of the sear spring in place as you reinstalled it?

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Originally Posted by mnbogboy2

I will guess that the sear return spring is not installed correctly.
Does the bolt release feel normal when releasing the bolt? The sear spring sounds like it is not returning the sear with full spring force.
Do you have pictures of the sear spring in place as you reinstalled it?

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That is something that I was wondering when the accutrigger fell apart on me and I was trying to put it back together with little to go on but some adjustment videos on youtube. I will take some pics tomorrow morning and post them.

Barry

Go to Utube and check the social regressive. He has accurized his Savage and shows in one of his videos how to polish and fix trigger problems. His video shows complete disassembly and reassembly of the accue trigger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxC6V9482tI&t=184s

Here are the pics for my accutrigger
Attachment 7328Attachment 7330Attachment 7331Attachment 7332Attachment 7333Attachment 7334

OP-

Question- Is your trigger blade red or steel colored? It looks kind of pale red. If red, you have a target AccuTrigger and may change answers here.

From what it appears the sear return spring is correct.
The sear itself looks "ugly". The mfg process of this part appears to be; laser cut, stamped to shape, heat treated and finally machining of sear surface. Not much left to machine in this case for whatever reason. I could be wrong on the process (sharpshooter probably knows exactly).
Maybe there are others on here that can verify with pictures what their sear looks like. I don't have a bottom bolt release but the top release sears have never looked that "crude".

Everything looks correct. Still having trouble understanding exactly what’s happening. In your first post you said it keeps locking up. Then you talked about it not fitting in the chassis. Now you are saying it’s too light? What do you mean too light? Do you mean the sear is tripping on its own, thus being caught by the safety blade? Is that the “locking up”.

And if so, will this happen as it sits like in the photos? Out of the chassis or stock? So taking the barreled action, you rack the bolt which sets the trigger ready to fire. And it won’t stay cocked? The sear will trip easily?

If this is the case, let me ask one other question. Is there anything you haven’t told us? Did you at any point try polishing the trigger or sear surfaces? I ask, because if what I’m asking is the case, it does sound like the trigger components are work enough to not stay engaged. On a regular trigger, this would be considered an unsafe condition. Just if it’s happening out of the stock, and by the photos everything looks to put together properly...this points to the only cause being the sear & trigger surfaces.

Quote:

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Is there anything you haven’t told us?

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Don't meddle Dave. :rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by wbm

Don't meddle Dave. :rolleyes:

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LOL!

The only thing I have done to this trigger is to adjust the trigger pull weight using the supplied too.

When trying to put this action into an Oryx chassis, I found that the pin holding the trigger assy to the action needed to be flipped around to fit.

No polishing of anything has been done.

Even with the adjustment spring set as heavy as I can get it, it will not stay cocked, the sear releases against the accutrigger blade and locks up requiring me to lift the bolt and re-cock. 9 out of ten times it will again release on its own.

Barry

Gotchya. Lastly, is it happening with the pin in either way? If so, and if this happens in or out of the stock, than it requires a new new sear, trigger or both.

The pin shoulder on one side or the other should not matter...although I’ve never really tested it. Never had the need.

The edge of the sear is damaged, from what I see in the pic.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

The edge of the sear is damaged, from what I see in the pic.

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What could cause the damage to the sear edge and would less than 1500 rounds with the trigger pull set light be enough to damage it?

Can the trigger assy be purchased anywhere but Savage and will they sell it to a non gunsmith?

Would an aftermarket trigger be better than stock?

And...Go

Barry

The sear has to be sold to a gunsmith.

There is another option, a Jard.
https://www.jardinc.com/savage-centerfire
Cheap they are not, but I love mine.
I gave an ELF trigger to my father, but that is just the trigger, no sear. The Jard is a drop in like your more common AR type triggers or even 700 style triggers. It has everything you need.

(I know nothing of the accutrigger. I handled one new rifle with it, hated the feel and never touched it again.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by coffeediver

What could cause the damage to the sear edge and would less than 1500 rounds with the trigger pull set light be enough to damage it?

Can the trigger assy be purchased anywhere but Savage and will they sell it to a non gunsmith?

Would an aftermarket trigger be better than stock?



And...Go

Barry

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Take a breath.........:eek: You probably don't need a trigger or a sear, just a touch up with a stone. But if that's above your pay grade, I understand. What caused it? Who knows at this point, I'd focus on a cure rather than the cause.

Exactly. I made a jig to hold at the proper angle and use Water stones to bring the surfaces parallel to one another. But even by hand, you can achieve a pretty flat surface. Just don’t Dremel!

Or look around...I’m sure you can find someonewith the know how, to stone the parts for free. Maybe even do a full trigger mod if you ask.

As much as I love the Accu trigger on the savages, I changed out the trigger to a Timney trigger.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Timney-638-...72.m2749.l2649

The Accu trigger on my 12 F/V was able to adjust down to 1.2 Lb , but if I did not have even finger pressure on the trigger blade it would some times trip the sear before the safety lever would position it's self and cause the trigger to lock up and need to be re cocked with the bolt. Not a big deal but just a pain sometimes.

BTW, some material removal of the internal stock may be required (as indicated by others).

coffeediver,

You don't have enough wear on that trigger to cause what you are experiencing.
I have the same rifle in .308 and have over 4300 rounds through it in the Accu-Stock.
I adjusted my trigger to 2 lbs. as soon as I got it. At about 2500 rounds, the rear spring loosened up to under 1.5 lbs and I experienced the front tab lock-up that comes from having the trigger set too light.
I readjusted it and put a drop of Locktite on the adjustment screw and it hasn't happened since.

I have an earlier 10 FP .308 with a hidden mag and have over 10,000 rounds on its trigger. It has a hidden mag and an upper bolt release. It is also adjusted to 2 lbs but the spring never loosen and has been functioning flawlessly since 2009.

I have 9 Savages, and have two with top bolt releases mounted in Oryx chassis. Never had to move any springs to get them to fit perfectly. Never had the trigger issues you had either.
As I understand it, the Oryx chassis has a slot to allow you to release the bolt.
Perhaps that is the issue. I have never tried to mount the Oryx on an lower bolt release, so I can't comment on whether the lower bolt release might be the problem.

Yesterday I braved the 108* temp./heat index to test two bullet/loads, the Fn 110 Tactical would not fire, trigger wouldn't move. Packed up and on the way home was thinking RB-2,. at home I pulled it out of the stock and everything worked as 2 Mo. ago.Back in the stock, torqued the bolts to 35 in/# ** as before and all was good.Tride going higher as suggested in the "helpful hints" and the trigger would not move

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CFJunkie

coffeediver,

You don't have enough wear on that trigger to cause what you are experiencing.
I have the same rifle in .308 and have over 4300 rounds through it in the Accu-Stock.
I adjusted my trigger to 2 lbs. as soon as I got it. At about 2500 rounds, the rear spring loosened up to under 1.5 lbs and I experienced the front tab lock-up that comes from having the trigger set too light.
I readjusted it and put a drop of Locktite on the adjustment screw and it hasn't happened since.

I have an earlier 10 FP .308 with a hidden mag and have over 10,000 rounds on its trigger. It has a hidden mag and an upper bolt release. It is also adjusted to 2 lbs but the spring never loosen and has been functioning flawlessly since 2009.

I have 9 Savages, and have two with top bolt releases mounted in Oryx chassis. Never had to move any springs to get them to fit perfectly. Never had the trigger issues you had either.
As I understand it, the Oryx chassis has a slot to allow you to release the bolt.
Perhaps that is the issue. I have never tried to mount the Oryx on an lower bolt release, so I can't comment on whether the lower bolt release might be the problem.

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Yes the Oryx chassis has a slot in order to actuate the bolt release using a tool. No issue there. The trigger does the same thing no matter if I adjust the as heavy as it will go in or out of the chassis. If I try to lighten it up it will not stay cocked at all.

It doesn't take much wear to give engagement problems considering the trigger was engineered with negative engagement. The only thing that ensures engagement is spring pressure. The only thing that protects against AD is the safety blade.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shooter0302

Yesterday I braved the 108* temp./heat index to test two bullet/loads, the Fn 110 Tactical would not fire, trigger wouldn't move. Packed up and on the way home was thinking RB-2,. at home I pulled it out of the stock and everything worked as 2 Mo. ago.Back in the stock, torqued the bolts to 35 in/# ** as before and all was good.Tride going higher as suggested in the "helpful hints" and the trigger would not move

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7-26, went to check the scope POA/POI as I misplaced my notes. POS accutrigger wouldn't fire AGAIN, took it out of the stock, no problem, back on stock, torqued the front screw to 30 in/lb, then the back one. POS, backed the rear screw to 20 in/lb. and it works. Added torque driver to shooting bag.
Tomorrow I'll see who has the best price on a RB-2

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shooter0302

7-26, went to check the scope POA/POI as I misplaced my notes. POS accutrigger wouldn't fire AGAIN, took it out of the stock, no problem, back on stock, torqued the front screw to 30 in/lb, then the back one. POS, backed the rear screw to 20 in/lb. and it works. Added torque driver to shooting bag.
Tomorrow I'll see who has the best price on a RB-2

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My gut feeling is that there is a slight interference with the trigger/trigger components & the stock when it is torqued down into the accu block. The sear itself comes real close to the rear action screw & bedding block/pillar.
Here is what may work for you.
Color every "corner" of the trigger housing, sear, bolt release, trigger shoe with a "color crayon" or even chalk. Carefully insert the action into the stock taking care not to touch the colored parts to the stock. Torque it back down tight 35-45 inch pounds. Remove bolts and again carefully lift out the action. The interference should show in the stock. Remove suspect material as required.
Clean & repeat until no interference is found.
At least that's what I would do if the problem wasn't obvious.

I'll try that, what is a puzzle to is that after working on the trigger springs I've fired close to 70+ rounds with no problem, gave it a good cleaning, then it set in the corner with 2 BR rifles for a month or so, then last week it went to crap.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shooter0302

I'll try that, what is a puzzle to is that after working on the trigger springs I've fired close to 70+ rounds with no problem, gave it a good cleaning, then it set in the corner with 2 BR rifles for a month or so, then last week it went to crap.

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I ran into a similar problem a while back where a perfectly working SSS trigger started tripping on bolt closure. This rifle trigger combination had worked flawlessly for thousands of rounds. The trigger shoe had been seriously close to the trigger guard and actually showed a slight wear mark. Although this action combination had been out of this stock dozens of times. But this last time something must have changed a "thousandth" or two!
Could be you find something simple to remedy.
Good luck,
Randy

Just an update.

Took the rifle to a friend of mine and he determined the the trigger and sear were only connecting on one edge of the mating surface. He cleaned up the mating surfaces and for $45 I have a trigger that feels factory new.

Thanks for all the responses.

Barry

Happy you found it.
Good shooting.