-
Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Hello all,
I've been shooting, tearing apart and screwing back together various Savage actions and barrels and such for the last few years, like a lot of folks here. Like others, I've had my run-ins with factory barrels that took a liberal soaking in <penetrating fluid of choice - I use Kroil> and either a healthy swipe from a LARGE dead blow (had to buy a bigger one) or a cheater pipe over the barrel nut wrench :o Subsequently... most of my barrels nuts get tightened down til they stop, then a little more push and thats it. I have at times had them come loose - not during firing, but when I had the barrel clamped in wood vise blocks and was trying to rotate the whole barrel/action assembly to level the scope rail; little more grab than I counted on and the action came loose. Turned it back and a couple taps with a flat blade screwdriver and it was all good ;) Most of them have shot pretty well like that.
Then more recently I've seen a few 'Benchrest' types solemnly state that they believe *at least* 100ft-lbs torque makes the guns shoot better, and how they hoped all their opponents only put their barrels on 'hand tight'.
Made me start wondering if mebbe I was leaving some cards on the table.
Whaddya think?
Monte
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Monte,
Finger tight then a little tweek with the nut wrench is all you need. Anything above that isnt going to gain you a thing. Those benchrest guys arnt dealing with what Savage offers, like floating bolt heads etc. Call and ask fred at SSS what he thinks. I doubt he will tell you to tighten the nut like the benchrest guys suggest.
El Lobo
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
They musta been the ones that also hired the Gorilla that puts them on at Savage ::) :).
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdog06
They musta been the ones that also hired the Gorilla that puts them on at Savage ::) :).
I have it on good authority that the factory uses a Gorilla-ett to tighten the barrel nuts.
Go figure,
Johnds
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I think with the remmy clones they use they figure since it does'nt shoot well I'll just tighten it some more and fix it. :P
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by memilanuk
Then more recently I've seen a few 'Benchrest' types solemnly state that they believe *at least* 100ft-lbs torque makes the guns shoot better, and how they hoped all their opponents only put their barrels on 'hand tight'.
Whaddya think?
Monte
Sounds like total BS to me. For one how are they measuring the torque? Anytime you add something to a torque wrench (IE extension, or other apparatus.) it is changing the torque value. I been told that Savage torques there barrels, using a barrel nut wrench attached to the wrench, the only problem is it changes the value of the wrench, so who knows what the actual torque rating is. O by the way majority of the workers at Savage installing the nuts are 100 lbs women. ;)
I see nothing wrong with the way your putting them together this is what I do, but I can't say I ever had one come loose on me.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Run the nut up snug with your fingers, put the wrench on it then give it a light "rap" with a steel hammer and you're done. The steel hammer will transfer to the barrel nut better than a dead blow. The "rap" is what does it. Same as removing the nut. Steel against steel works better than a dead blow. Check your headspace and go shooting. ;)
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I found this for converting wrenches with an extension.
http://www.belknaptools.com/extcalc.asp
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by barm
Wow that is a neat site.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
The reason why some barrel nuts are so tight:
1.The recoil lug is not perfectly flat, there are high and low spots and some amount of "cup". This acts like a split lock washer. Just check the witness marks on a take-off lug.
2. The barrel nut usually has some burrs on the mating side from the serration cuts. This acts like a star lock washer. Just check out the galling on the nut.
3. On blued guns, some will suffer from "salt creep", a condition where not all of the bluing salts are flushed from the tight crevises and thread joints causing that white "gunk" to appear that everyone thinks is a thread lock agent. This stuff is caustic, and will make things that are mated close, "bite".
Savage uses a short barrel nut wrench with a tube for a handle. The torque wrench is inserted into the handle to make for a total length of about 18". The nuts are routinely torqued at 75 ft/lbs. These wrenches are the "clicker" type, so it is possible to get them tighter than 75 ft/lbs if one was in a hurry.
Now just because it is torqued to 75 ft/lbs, doesn't mean it will break loose at that,see the above.
Torquing a barrel nut and torquing a shouldered barrel are 2 different things. The added nut will make the joint tighter.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82boy
Sounds like total BS to me. For one how are they measuring the torque? Anytime you add something to a torque wrench (IE extension, or other apparatus.) it is changing the torque value. I been told that Savage torques there barrels, using a barrel nut wrench attached to the wrench, the only problem is it changes the value of the wrench, so who knows what the actual torque rating is.
I expect Savage has a couple of engineers who know how to calibrate a torque wrench so the actual geometry is taken into account. It's physics and mechanics, not magic.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I use the method Nor Cal Mikie mentioned and have not had any trouble. The nut will still be easy enough to remove with proper tools if you need to.
I also suggest cleaning the threads of the barrel and nut and lubing with oil.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
And after you get the headspace set the way you want it, put a piece of masking tape on the barrel, just at the front edge of the nut and another piece on the action. Put a black mark on both and you will be able to tell if it ever moves. Never had one move on me but it doesn't hurt to check your marks.
And if you leave the nut on the barrel you just broke loose, you've only moved it enough to unscrew the barrel. Run it into the next action and you will be real close when you reset the headspace.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I have a Midway wrench and the instructions say that you should use 30-40 ftlbs, and that is what I used on my first (40ftlbs) and it shoots .25 moa to 500yds. So that is what I am using on my next two I am currently building. It seems to be more than enough torque but not so much that I would have trouble getting it back off.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I have a 325C, Where do I get a proper barrel nut wrench to fit it?
Will the wrench designed for the 110 fit my old rilfe lug?
GQ
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by barm
If you put the torque wrench handle at a 90 degree angle with the wrench, no conversion is needed. Your at the same torque as if you had a socket on it.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerhappy
I have a Midway wrench and the instructions say that you should use 30-40 ftlbs, and that is what I used on my first (40ftlbs) and it shoots .25 moa to 500yds. So that is what I am using on my next two I am currently building. It seems to be more than enough torque but not so much that I would have trouble getting it back off.
What caliber and rifle is it that you are shooting 1.25" groups at 500 yards?
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Can't imagine what advantage there is to over-tightening the barrel or the barrel nut on an action.
Hand tight with a SSS wrench has been good enough.
.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Hammer,
For the most part, I tend to agree. I've shot a lot of my Savage rifles with barrels loose enough that if I clamp the barrel in a vise and grab the action by hand and yank (I have a wee bit of extra... mass... at my disposal) I can start to loosen it. It stays plenty tight in actual use, though. Where some of this had came up from was an article in Precision Shooting earlier this year where this fellow had a full-on custom switch-barrel varmint gun built for him, and he went on at some length about how wonderful it was to be able to swap barrels out with a snap of the wrist while sitting at the bench. Showed a couple pictures of hm sitting in a recliner doing just that. Anywho, the thread started out with someone going "Does this guy know something we don't???" or something of that nature, as it appears most BR gunsmiths/shooters seem to be firm believers in torquing the barrel on to a specific minimum value. Discussion ensued, some of it more vigorous than other, etc. Basically the end consensus was that going 'hand tight' was okay for casual shooters and 'live varmint' shooting but not for honest-to-goodness serious 'B'enchrest competition ::)
All the above got me to thinking... while I've usually been fairly satisfied with my rifles - both factory stock and otherwise, they've never *quite* grouped tight enough to where I'd be willing to go shoot in a BR match, whether it be point-blank score or group, or 600/1000yd stuff. Part of me wondered (wonders) if that might be due to small things being left undone. So... this particular gun I'm working with now consists of a RBLP action trued and timed by SSS, with the Evo 2oz. trigger, 30" Rock 5R 1-7.8" tw barrel in 6 Dasher, McRee stock, NF BR 12-42x scope, etc. The barrel is a no-nut configuration, torqued on to 100ft-lbs. So far... it seems to shoot very, very well. How much of that is the barrel torque, and how much is just good components and it being a Dasher... dunno.
Oh BTW here's a link to the thread over on benchrest.com. I'm not saying one side is wrong or the other is right, but it might make for some interesting reading.
Monte
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Always interested in the opinions and observations of fellow barrel swappers.
It is important for us to recognize our affliction and seek help. Unfortunately, my speed dial includes the likes of Northlander, Pac-Nor, Shilen, and others who are enablers to our disease.
Have many switch barrel rifles built on several different actions. In addition to Savages, have switch barrel rifles on 98 Mausers, Montana 1999, Remington 700 and 40X, Ruger 77 MKII, Sakos, Weatherby Mark V, and many others. These have been built by a wide variety of gunsmiths.
Have spent time with benchrest Hall of Famer Tony Boyer and watched him switch barrels on rifles that he won national titles with -- as well as many other benchrest competitors.
Have spent time talking with the gunsmith who built the rifle in the Precision Shooting article concerning the hand tight with a quick jerk twist.
Have also spent time discussing the issue with Norm Johnson, who has written many articles in Precision Shooting concerning switch barrel rifles.
Have spent several conversations with Bob Greenleaf, former senior engineer at Savage, discussing the barrel swapping game. He will share several options for the affliction.
Spent time with Skypilotbc who regularly swaps barrels in prairie dog towns between shots -- and then hits the prairie dogs at 800+ yards on the first shot from the replaced barrel.
SharpShooter bribes me well not to mention him in my swap barrel discussions because he likes to be associated with a better class of gun nut. So I won't mention our conversations, which we have never had.
None of this makes me qualified to have an opinion on the topic.
Though still learning at an unacceptably slow rate, my current thinking is that hand tight -- or hand tight with the assistance of a SSS or similar barrel nut wrench -- is satisfactory for my use.
Overtight just makes life unnecessarily difficult. Don't see a need for a cheater bar to tighten a barrel or nut.
Besides, I am inherently lazy and I know that barrel will have to come off sometime.
As for observed accuracy... Find it best to shoot one-shot groups at fifteen yards -- far enough out to not show powder burns on the paper -- and report them with the proper vagueness.
.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by okie2
Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerhappy
I have a Midway wrench and the instructions say that you should use 30-40 ftlbs, and that is what I used on my first (40ftlbs) and it shoots .25 moa to 500yds. So that is what I am using on my next two I am currently building. It seems to be more than enough torque but not so much that I would have trouble getting it back off.
What caliber and rifle is it that you are shooting 1.25" groups at 500 yards?
I am shooting a 260 rem. with a Shilen barrel using 139gr Lapua bullets. I am so happy with it I am currently working on another with a Lothar Walther barrel I really hope it does as well.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogjaw
If you put the torque wrench handle at a 90 degree angle with the wrench, no conversion is needed. Your at the same torque as if you had a socket on it.
If you use the socket square that is closest to the nut the torque will be negligibly different from having a socket on it. If you use the one at the far end you are multiplying your torque somewhat.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Mike Tyson is finding it hard to make ends meet, nowadays. So he picked up a part-time job at the Savage factory installing barrels.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
I expect Savage has a couple of engineers who know how to calibrate a torque wrench so the actual geometry is taken into account. It's physics and mechanics, not magic.
You have more faith in engineers than most. You need to spend more time with hourly workers who have to execute the plans and instructions of engineers.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I dd not read the 436,789 posts before this so if I repeat please disregard. All you need do is be sure you apply a bit of anti-sieze compound to the barrel threads--thread on the nut, run the barrel into the action until it stops on the go gage you have in there, and tighten using a large crecent wrench on the recoil lug and the SSS wrench on the nut. make it tight, but not ridiculous. To me, hand tight means you used your hands and not tools. I've done 436,789 rifles and barrels in this manner and not one has come loose or been hard to unscrew when a new barrel was needed later. This is not rocket science, people.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
This is not rocket science, people.
It is more important than rocket science.
.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by memilanuk
Then more recently I've seen a few 'Benchrest' types solemnly state that they believe *at least* 100ft-lbs torque makes the guns shoot better, and how they hoped all their opponents only put their barrels on 'hand tight'.
I'm no Savage expert, but I've never seen a "Benchrest" shooter share an advantage! And I'd be real suspicious unless you've actually seen them do it.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
This can be analyzed as a 'bolted joint' situation. One nut is the receiver, the other is the nut, and the clamped item is the lug, and the barrel is the bolt or stud. The load is the force applied by the blast psi exerted over the area of the bolt head (less the force resisting brass extraction due to brass friction on the walls of the chamber). It's the opposite force as what is applied on the lugs. Each material, barrel, nut, lug, and receiver, will all have a different level of 'springiness' (spring constant). It's related to the effective area of the part, the modulus of elasticity of the part, and the length of the part. The same is said of the bolt or barrel. The preload needed to resist joint separation is all you're looking for. That preload or fastener torque is related to the applied force (the blast), and the effective spring constants of each of the components in the joint. The math is all algebra, but the particulars of the loading and the calculation of the spring constants of each component are pretty hard to get accurately in this case due to unknowns. What's more, the surface finish of the mating parts and the level of lubrication and thread engagement make a big impact on the wrench torque. It's a 25% guess at best since you're measuring indirectly. Fastener preload is best measured by fastener stretch, which in this case would be barrel stretch between the chamber end and the nut. It's not practical to measure such, so we all use wrench torque as a 'best guess'.
As for the comment about engineers; I have full faith in a good engineer. I have little in that of an hourly worker carrying out the directions accurately for a number of reasons. Most of this is to the fault of the worker, due to a lack of knowledge or a lack of care. A lot of it is due to the fact that most engineers have a tough time dumbing down the message enough to get any old Joe to grasp it and believe in it 100%. We're not the best communicators.
A good read in "Machinery's Handbook" or in a decent machine design textbook from a reputable author will go along way into understanding the dynamics of a simple bolted joint. But as you can probably gather from the junk above, the input variables are not easily gotten in this case. I figure the big boys (Savage) have enough time and engineering resources to know what is the best fastening torque. Of course a manufacturer has other motivations, but to err on the best side, I'd go w the 800lb roided out Gorilla tight...
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Having toured the factory recently... their torque wrench is, as has been mentioned elsewhere, set for something like 87 ft-lbs of torque. There is a short extension on it, but the person giving that part of the tour (Chris Bezzina) said the torque value had been calculated to *include* the extension. He had no explanation for why the barrel nuts are so bloody tight and hard to get off; I don't think it's a problem the factory is all too worried about - their barrels definitely ain't coming off on their own. They did put some thread sealant on the barrel shank (brand = Loctite) to keep some of the finishing solutions from creeping their way in later, but unless that thread sealant is acting as a thread *locker*, or the finishing solutions are getting past it (I have had much less problem getting 'bare' stainless barrels off stainless actions than I have getting 'coated' barrels off coated actions...), dunno.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
i have decided that the only time i need to get a nut tighter is when the barrel has a muzzle brake on it.
it seems when i remove the brake( hand tightened but a real good fit ) to clean the barrel i have broke the barrel loose on two different barrels
robert
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
100 foot pounds is not a whole lot of torque, actually. I've recently begun using a tool that makes unscrewing a Savage barrel nut --child's play-- I used to soak them in Kroil over night and then grunt and hammer and etc.. but with the new tool--piece of cake-- as a bonus, this tool also can be used to anneal brass with a precision you never imagined-- and it anneals the brass all the way through--No I do not own stock in the company --Induction Innovations-- but I wish I did.
Using a new portable induction heater (mini ductor II) that I bought from tooltopia.com for less than I paid for my complete Ken Light annealing machine, I can now heat up the barrel nut with a directly applied flameless heat, which frees up the nut and makes disassembling a Savage barrel easy as pie. Of course I never have any trouble with barrels I installed because I use anti freeze compound, but that's a different thread.............
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Hammer on your "non savage" switch barrel rifles are they set up like the savage with a nut, if not what kind of a switch barrel are they?
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I have used a Torqe wrench on mine and a friends , But we usually use a resized case , screw the barrel till it stops then turn the nut down . Then I open and close the bolt on a couple of resized pieces of brass . Soon as I get it where the bolt is just barly felt on closing , I peck it with a piece of brass drift a time or 2 . Can change in the stock without taking the scope off this way. It is my way and I am sticking to it. ;D
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
On the Belnap sight I typed in Savage nut wrench, Nothing found. anyone ordered one from them to fit thier Savage nut? Lou
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
.
Quote:
Hammer on your "non savage" switch barrel rifles are they set up like the savage with a nut, if not what kind of a switch barrel are they?
Some of my non-Savage rifles use Savage-type barrel nuts -- Remington 700, Weatherby Mark V for 460 and smaller, etc.
The Sakos use something that looks externally like the Savage barrel nut but has two different thread patterns on the barrel - coarse and fine. These barrels can be changed with a lightweight shirt-pocket size spanner wrench without removing the barreled action from the stock. Can change the barrel in the field in under two minutes without removing anything but the barrel itself. Have one Sako with barrels ranging from 264 Win Mag to 470 Capstick and another Sako with 22-250 up through 375-06 Improved.
The Rugers, the Weatherby Mark V in larger than 460, and some others do not lend themselves to the barrel nut approach -- mostly from an aesthetics point of view. These use no barrel nut and use a regular shouldered barrel. Several barrel makers have my particular actions blueprinted and have CNC computer programs made for these specific actions so that I can order additional barrels without sending them my actions for final fit. New barrels fit perfectly when delivered.
McMillan and some others keep custom CNC programs for their fiberglass or other synthetic stocks to match my barreled actions and their idiosyncrasies. Again, that way I can order additional stocks without sending barreled actions for fitting and the stocks fit perfect when they arrive.
The majority of my guns have free-floated barrels, but some do not. With swap barrel guns free-floated is the easiest way to go.
Scope base and mount systems need to be standardized across lots of actions and be quick-detachable (what quick-detach means can be a fun debate). On a single action may have half-dozen different scopes to use in a single day depending on the use, the specific shot, the rifle barrel being used, etc. But the same scope may be switched between multiple rifle actions too.
It can get tricky if you're using one specific barrel on multiple actions. Don't recommend that for most people. Too much cost involved in initial setup of the actions.
Swap barrels on calibers like the 500 A-Square, 550 Magnum, and 585 Nyati get tricky due to the need for barrel mounted additional recoil lugs and the perfect matching of them to stocks. Some might argue that on a particular trip to Africa you shouldn't be switching from the 550 to the 585 in the middle of a cape buffalo charge, but others will suggest it is important to have exactly the right gun for the specific charge.
One wouldn't use a 222 Remington Magnum with a 13-inch twist on a bull prairie dog when the situation called for a 222-1/2 Remington with a 12-7/8 - inch twist -- would they ?
These are the most common types of switch barrel methods that I use.
Life can be fun.
.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Thanks for that Hammer ;D
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
this guy has a neat approach for switch barrel rifles
http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
hey, optics panet has nut wrenches on sale for $27. order a pack of $2.99 targets and get the free shipping on $30 or more orders
when i was putting my barrel back on, i had the headspace set, put the barrel in the blocks and went to tighten the nut. the nut, lug and receiver spun all at the same time. i had to reset the HS and im wondering if i should put the receiver in blocks and clamp that with the vise instead of the barrel? anyone using any lube on a stainless barrel going into a non stainless reveiver? thanks
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
i put the receiver in the blocks and set the nut to 50 ft lbs. it all went smooth after i had the right tools. i made a vise from stuff i had laying around.
[img width=600 height=400]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2788/4425422377_7ca5007b81_b.jpg[/img]
the blocks from SSS had two sets, one for heavy barrels and one for smaller contours. i used a rasp to hog out the blocks to fit the receiver. drilled a hole in one block and used a bolt in the action to anchor the receiver... im sure this is old hat for most, but its my first bolt, first barrel swap, so its all been a learning experience for me.
[img width=600 height=400]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2792/4426195268_192a46faf6_b.jpg[/img]
anyway, 50 ft lbs its all good.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Factory tight is my choice. There is more to the question than just making it easy to remove the barrel next time. The barrel/receiver threads need to be preloaded enough to prevent movement in the joint under the loads of firing. May mean choosing the right thread lub and different torque values for different calibers.
Anyone have 'official' instructions from Savage?
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I've changed/re-barreled about 25 Savage rifles and use the same technique every time. You're on your own with setting/turning for HS/FB but once you found and locked your position, use (BLUE ONLY) loc-tight with 75 LBS of torque. Apply about 8 drops of loc-tight and torque the barrel ring using the CORRECT Savage barrel/ring tool. The barrel will NEVER come loose, it has proven to provide the best accuracy and it can be removed with less effort than a factory barrel!
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I've built many, many Savage bolt guns.
If you just give it a good snug, it will come loose sooner or later, and it does not matter if it's a stock gun or one that has had the face of the action and barrel nut trued or not.
Do tighten them up pretty good. I never measured torque. They don't need to be as tight as some of the factory barrel nuts that I have had to beat on with a BFH, but they should be fairly tight.
Mine were usually always faced as I did accuracy jobs, but either way, do make them more than snug for safety reasons.
Just think if the nut comes loose and you don't know it, all of a sudden you have way excessive headspace because the barrel has unscrewed a little and a possible blow up of the rifle. It's just not worth it to not get them pretty darn tight.
I retired from the gunsmithing business about 5 years ago, but the barrel nuts have not changed since then except for the smooth one's.
For those, figure where the bottom of the nut will be and drill a hole, almost but not all the way through and use a spanner wrench to loosen and tighten the nut.
John K
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by amamnn
100 foot pounds is not a whole lot of torque, actually. I've recently begun using a tool that makes unscrewing a Savage barrel nut --child's play-- I used to soak them in Kroil over night and then grunt and hammer and etc.. but with the new tool--piece of cake-- as a bonus, this tool also can be used to anneal brass with a precision you never imagined-- and it anneals the brass all the way through--No I do not own stock in the company --Induction Innovations-- but I wish I did.
Using a new portable induction heater (mini ductor II) that I bought from tooltopia.com for less than I paid for my complete Ken Light annealing machine, I can now heat up the barrel nut with a directly applied flameless heat, which frees up the nut and makes disassembling a Savage barrel easy as pie. Of course I never have any trouble with barrels I installed because I use anti freeze compound, but that's a different thread.............
Anti Freeze compound ? Is that Prestone or store brand???
Sorry, I couldn't resist your typing error (I never make typing errrrrors) :o
I think you meant Anti Sieze compound
My Best, John K
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by amamnn
this tool also can be used to anneal brass with a precision you never imagined-- and it anneals the brass all the way through-
explain "all the way through".
not for the budget minded ::), the poster is looking for a cheap way to do the job.
http://www.cornwelltools.com/webcat/...dDuctor-II-Kit
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
In the end, tighten them pretty darn tight, but I see no reason to tighten them as tight as the facory does except perhaps liability.
I've had to beat the living snot out of some factory tightned barrel nuts, no reason for that, but they should for sure be more than hand tight.
I think this is the part where good common sence comes in, as un common as it may be anymore.
John K
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Could it be that the torque required to break a factory tightened nut is greater than the torque Savage used to tighten it?
The word 'stiction' comes to mind. Some of the bolts and nuts I have tightened in various applications took more effort to break loose than the effort put into tightening them. Not rusted or galled. Makes a little snap or crack sound before starting to turn. For me, putting the nut back to factory tightness does not mean using as much muscle as it took to remove it. The 70 to 100 ft-lb range sounds good for tightening but it might take more to remove it again especially if it has had time to 'set'.
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I put mine on hand tight with a good whackwith a steel hammer. She is a shooter
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
I let my wife tighten up my last one. ;D
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triggerhappy
I have a Midway wrench and the instructions say that you should use 30-40 ftlbs, and that is what I used on my first (40ftlbs) and it shoots .25 moa to 500yds. So that is what I am using on my next two I am currently building. It seems to be more than enough torque but not so much that I would have trouble getting it back off.
Just to satisfy myself, (having a bit of difficulty taking one loose) it is righty tighty correct? Not a left hand thread, just checkin. ???
-
Re: Screwing on the barrel nut - hand tight or 'factory' tight?