Just got my 110 BA in 338 Lapua, questions for fellow owners...

Hi Folks

Just picked up my 110 BA in 338 Lapua today. Here are a few questions:

1 - What do you think about lapping aluminum scope rings?
2 - What powder(s) and charge(s) do you used for 250 grain bullets?
3 - Do you have any issues with the rail that comes with the rifle?
4 - What is your opinion about barrel break-in?

Thanks

you will find a lot of useful info on sniper country about the 110 ba
I usually dont lap my rings i i have a good quality set
the 110 does not like 250 grain pills with the 1-9 twist,it prefers 300 grain
i had no issues with my rail,just make make sure you loc tite it down(blue kind)
as far as powder,most are useing retumbo,and vihtavouri n560,i have used them both and it really likes the n560,but have also had excellent results with the retumbo
just make sure you use lapua brass,some have tried hornady,and it's not working out to good.

Depending on the rings you use and if the base is distorted, you can really mess up your scope tube and add stress to the mounting if there is a problem somewhere.

Usually, with high quality rings, you only need to lap your rings if there is an alignment problem caused by the base. Rarely is the problem with the rings unless they are junk. Also be aware of poor construction on rings that might have uneven surfaces or sharp edges / corners.

I would recommend that you check alignment AND the inside of your rings first even if your rings are from a reputable maker. A while back I used a brand new Armalite one piece 30mm mount on a high dollar scope and it put huge dings in the scope tube because the contact surface where the rings touched the scope had really sharp edged high spots on them. Normally I would have checked closely but the previous Armalite mount I used was flawless, so I assumed and lost.

To avoid an alignment problem make sure that the base is not being distorted in any way. If it is, you will need to shim and / or bed it. Virtually EVERY Savage action I have seen was warped and needed some bedding / shim work on the base.

If you lap your aluminum rings, you might want to coat the exposed aluminum with something like Duracoat. If you don't the bare aluminum will oxidize.

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I would recommend that you check alignment AND the inside of your rings first even if your rings are from a reputable maker.

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I just got my Wheeler scope mounting kit... I installed the 2 alignment slugs and the alignment is very close...

I am mounting a Burris XTR 6X-24X-50mm onto Burris Tactical Rings...

The misalignment is so close that I am on the edge about lapping it...

Thanks

If you buy Burris Signature Rings there is no need to lap them as they have plastic inserts in them and will not mark your scope. Break-in there are a lot of opinions on that. Myself I shoot and clean ever shot for the first (10) then I shoot (3) and clean for the next (15) shots then I shoot (5) and clean for the next 15 for a total of 45 shots. After that it should be good to go. On custom hand lapped barrel after the first 10 shots it should be fine as long as you not getting any blue after cleaning Montana/Extreme Copper Killer. I have had great luck using Montana/Extreme COPPER KILLER. It is the only copper remover I use now after trying everthing on market this work the best for me.

The question about barrel break in is a loaded question. There are as many procedures as there are shooters in this world. Some shoot one and clean for 10 rounds, then shoot 3 rounds and clean, then 5 rounds and clean etc... or some variation of this. A friend of mine will take scalding hot water and pour it down a brand new barrel to clean all the machining residue and filings out of the barrel, dry it real good and oil it. That' his break in procedure.

The other end of the spectrum is a pretty well respected guy in the "biz" by the name of Gale McMillan. He seems to think that barrel break is hogwash. Rather than try to paraphrase what he said here is a link to 6mmbr.com where there is a collection of comments made by McMillan.

http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html

To each his own but from personal experience I can't tell the difference between when I break in a barrel and when I don't. Sometimes you get a bad barrel but most of the time they are pretty good.

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Originally Posted by lomfs24

The question about barrel break in is a loaded question. There are as many procedures as there are shooters in this world. Some shoot one and clean for 10 rounds, then shoot 3 rounds and clean, then 5 rounds and clean etc... or some variation of this. A friend of mine will take scalding hot water and pour it down a brand new barrel to clean all the machining residue and filings out of the barrel, dry it real good and oil it. That' his break in procedure.

The other end of the spectrum is a pretty well respected guy in the "biz" by the name of Gale McMillan. He seems to think that barrel break is hogwash. Rather than try to paraphrase what he said here is a link to 6mmbr.com where there is a collection of comments made by McMillan.

http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html

To each his own but from personal experience I can't tell the difference between when I break in a barrel and when I don't. Sometimes you get a bad barrel but most of the time they are pretty good.

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i agree with this,i clean mine when i first get it,and not again until im done shooting!

Really appreciate the break-in comments!!!! Makes great sense...

My break-in plan is:

1 - Detailed cleaning and light lubrication
2 - Send one round down range
3 - Clean the barrel
4 - Maybe bore snake after 10 rounds???
4 - Done

Start scope sight-in

And why waste those 10 rounds? Start scope sight in with your first 10 rounds of shooting and cleaning. You will be sighted in by the time you are done with your break in. Plus it will give your barrel a chance to cool between shots.

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And why waste those 10 rounds? Start scope sight in with your first 10 rounds of shooting and cleaning. You will be sighted in by the time you are done with your break in. Plus it will give your barrel a chance to cool between shots.

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Good idea... I will sight in the scope and chronograph at the same time.

Anyone know what the estimated barrel life is for the .338 Lapua???

Thanks

This has got to be true I read it on the internet. I found this over at snipers hide posted by someone who said they got a reply back from Accuracy International.

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I just heard back from the AI rep on the expected barrel life of the AI 338 Lapua AWM. Here is his response:

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Hello Jim,
expected would be 7.5k honestly and can be less or more depending on the way she is run and ammo numbers of course.

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Take it for what it's worth. As seen on the internet. Probably also depends on what you consider accurate. If you are looking for Sub MOA she'll probably last a long time. If you want groups in the .2 and .3 range maybe not so long. FWIW.

I can't find them right now but there was also an article I read that said barrel life was effected by the pounds of powder shot through them. I think the article said somewhere in the 14 pounds of powder range. If you do the math on a .223 or .308 it's probably pretty accurate. But using that philosophy any of your eardrumsplittenloudenboomer cartridges (.338LM, .338 Edge, 50BMG etc...) would be shot out in about 100 rounds. So I can't really say I buy into that either.

I think only you will know when that barrel gets shot out.

Ooops, just rechecked my math. The eardrumsplittenloudenboomers maybe closer to 1000 round range with that philosophy.

Did some more research and I am seeing a barrel life ranging from 2500 - 3500 rounds for 338 Lapua...

I am moving towards 300 grain bullets, since feedback indicates that the Savage 110 BA (338) performs better due to the faster twist...

Does this seem reasonable? I like to find a load that works well and stick with it for long term.

the 110 ba in 338 does prefer the 300 grainers better.i have had very good results with retumbo powder and 300 grain scenars in mine,but i have heard you get better results with vithavouri n560 and i have some on its way today,so i will let you know how it works.

Hi Folks

Here is the progress so far... Thanks for the help

(1) Got scope mounted (2) Harris bipod mounted (3) Pelican Case cut-out...

Note: Got the Wheeler Scope Mounting Kit (nice)... Installed the alignment tool and discovered that the alignment was perfect, no need for lapping...

Need to pick-up reloading supplies and sight this thing in...

I will also pickup some rubber rail ladder inserts to make the forearm more comfortable... I was going to replace the factory rail, but now that I have it I will give it a try for a while...

[img width=600 height=193]http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn30/plasmadrive/Savage%20338%20Lapua/DSC02431.jpg[/img]

Wow! That is a nice looking setup. I am jealous! Have fun shooting.

FWIW, I have the 300 Win Mag 110 BA
I used Devcon as a "Gap Filler" between the scope mount and actions. I put release on the action, Devcon on the bottom of the mount and tightened the screws to 10 lb's. This makes for a very solid mount.
I prefer to lap all scope rings to ensure maximum metal to metal contact that is parallel with the tube.
The Pelican/Harddig cases are great for keeping the rifles well protected. I wonder if Savage took the case size into account when laying out the 110 BA? They barely fit into them.

hey ersc what scope did you mount on your 110BA

Hi Tim300wsm

I took an Burris XTR 6X-24X-50mm from by Barrett 99 and mounted it on the Savage 110 BA... It should well beyond 1000 yards...

I got a Nightforce 5.5-22 x 50 NXS and mounted it on the Barrett...

I really like to optical clarity of the Burris...

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Originally Posted by Damon

the 110 ba in 338 does prefer the 300 grainers better.i have had very good results with retumbo powder and 300 grain scenars in mine,but i have heard you get better results with vithavouri n560 and i have some on its way today,so i will let you know how it works.

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Hi Damon

I just picked up reloading dies, Lapua Brass, Lapua 300 grain bullets, and Retumbo powder... Can you share your reloading data? Chronograph etc.

Thanks

i used 89.5 grains of retumbo,with bullets seated right off the lands.i just got some vihta vouri n560 to try tomorrow and i will let you know how that works.

Here are some chronograph results...

2750
2744
2742
2739
2760
2757
2750
2744
2751
2760

AE = 2749
Low = 739
High = 2760
SD = 7
ES = 21

Retumbo range is 85 - 94 for 300 grain Lapua bullets... I would say never exceed 90 on the 110 BA...

Worked up to 90 grains and see minor fire pin primer flow... I would like to get to 2680 - 2700 with no pressure signs...

I have seen several posts with people load 92+... Can't see how this would be safe???

Dear ERSC,
Can you tell me the ring height?
With a just ordered 110BA, I plan to use a Millett 6x25x56mm scope.
What height of rings should I order?
Thanks so much.
Smitty56

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Originally Posted by ersc

Hi Tim300wsm

I took an Burris XTR 6X-24X-50mm from by Barrett 99 and mounted it on the Savage 110 BA... It should well beyond 1000 yards...

I got a Nightforce 5.5-22 x 50 NXS and mounted it on the Barrett...

I really like to optical clarity of the Burris...

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Hi smitty56

I used the Burris 1/2" Medium rings. Hafve good clearance at the scope bell...

Post a photo of your finished rifle...

http://www.burrisoptics.com/xtrrings.html

you may need high rings with a 56mm objective especially if it has AO

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Originally Posted by Damon

you may need high rings with a 56mm objective especially if it has AO

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Good point!!! I needed Barrett High Rings for the Nightfoce scope (56) on my Barrett.... Did not catch the reference to 56mm...

Even with nightforce high rings the shade on my NXS 8-32 56 hit the front of the rail just past the dip. I took the three-rail off and installed a nightforce 20 MOA base rather than mess with it

Thank you guys!
I will order a set of high rings. I do not have the rifle yet. It is on the waiting lists at two different distributors. I am told they come in in one's and twos so the best way is just put your name on the list and go from there. I can pick the 110BA up at a local gun show but my FFL has a better price for me. I do however have the brass, bullets and dies.
I will come back with pictures in the future.
Thanks,
Smitty56