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After shooting to day , I was looking at my Savage bolt and I see what looks to me like it is tuching the end of the barrel. The gun shoots pretty good but I'll bet it would shoot better if it didn't tuch . What do you think ? I would fix it but I give my kids my lathe and they are 500 miles away . And on this gun I did away with the barrel nut and I think I need about .003 removed from the barrel. Target #5 sighter botton left is 8 shots .
"The gun shoots pretty good but".....
Like I already said (next door) Don't fix it if it ain't broke!! ;)
Did you chamber the barrel? The case should stick out about .125”-.130” (‘bout 1/8”) from chamber breech. If not, it’s been like that from the start, as the chamber doesn’t Grow longer over time.
I agree with Mikie. Don’t try to fix what ain’t broken. If you were still running the barrel nut, I’d say pull it & just hand file a few Thous off. But that dog won’t Hunt! Smellin’ what I’m steppin’ in partner?
Try some plasti-gauge on the bolt face. It's cheap and can be had at most any auto parts store.
Yes I chambered the Barrel . My Kids have my lathe now and they are 500 moles away , the thing is I only test fired the barrel before they took the lathe . I really now think the marks on the bolt face is from closing the bolt on a empty chamber , because I had black on the bolt face when I test fired it and no marks .
Is the bolt hard to close on an empty chamber?
Clean the bolt face and matching area where it meets the bolt. Then put Dykem Steel Blue on the bolt face. If the bolt is touching the barrel, you will be able to easily see scratches on the bolt face where you applied the die.
Good advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimreed1948
Looking at the target, I think the rifle shoots great, even if the target were at 25 yards. Your shots are very consistent, so something is working just fine.
Unless you find out that the bolt is hard to close, and the face is being scratched, I wouldn't touch anything and screw up a good shooting rifle.
Not a Savage expert but if your bolt head is "headspacing" on the bolt face/barrel and not the cartridge,
how do you know headspace is correct?
A Go and no go gauge , but I believe the bolt could tuch the barrel . My bolt is NOT hard to close . So it must be getting scratched when I close the bolt on a empty chamber. There is a little end play in the bolt .
Mark up the bolt end with a sharpie, and chamber a round. If it wipes the ink, yes you are too long. If it don't, that just means that the bolthead touches the barrel with no round in the chamber.
Didn't wipe the ink with a round in the chamber. But does with a empty chamber , must be pretty close . But I think I'm good .
FIXED IT .
Wait, wait, wait… You said it “didnt wipe the ink with a round in the chamber. But does with a round in the chamber, must be pretty close.”
Do we have something missing??:confused: Lol!
My bad ,, didnt wipe the ink with a empty chamber .
Yeah, that’s fine. It can touch while empty. All that matters is what it’s doing while chambered. ;)
DAM I give up !
Why you say that? It’s fine how it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtinNC
I'm talking about getting my post right . I'm thinking faster than I can type .
Ahhh, LOL. I understood after your first clarity. Makes perfect sense now. Wipes ink on empty chamber. No wiping when chambered. Sounds like it should be.
Trying to understand this. Cocking piece pin via FP spring pulls the bolt rearward and keeps pressure against lugs and abutments. Cartridge does not control the bolt face axially.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
There is a little end play with the bolt . When the chamber is empty the bolt will move a few thousands ( maybe ) forward and COULD let the bolt face tuch the barrel , when there is a round in the chamber it keeps the bolt lugs against the lugs in the action and away from the barrel .
Yes, I wasn’t the only :rolleyes:person who figured this. (Post # 11 thought the same thing.)
When you close the bolt, the lugs are touching the abutments. This is happening because the firing pin spring makes that happen. Take out the firing pin and maybe it can float.Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtinNC
The only way the bolt head touches the end of the barrel is if the barrel is screwed in too far. If case protrusion is correct you would not be able to close the bolt on a round. You cant rub the bolt on the breech and be able to close the bolt on a round unless it is chambered long.
This makes this statement untrue.Quote:
"Wipes ink on empty chamber. No wiping when chambered. Sounds like it should be."
Not true !! close the bolt on a empty chamber holding the trigger back so it is NOT cocked and you will have a little end play . A uncocked firing pin has a little end play. I dought that if I removed my barrel and remover a couple thousands from the barrel it would make any difference in the way that it shoots .Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
It won’t. If the surfaces are not rubbing with a round seats in the chamber, it’s fine. However, if you wish to do this, it’s not going to hurt anything. Provided you know what you’re doing.
Up to you. But I wouldn’t expect anything.
To prove me wrong you mark the bolthead, you close the bolt while pulling the trigger and thrusting the bolt forward. I concede. You got me.Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtinNC
I somehow missed that closing the bolt on an empty chamber while pulling the trigger demonstrated your problem. Close the bolt like you would normally and there is no end play.
I don't find the of closing the bolt while holding down the trigger to be used in troubleshooting any known issue that I am aware of. If there is "end play" between the bolt head and the breech in the uncocked position, there is no reason to machine your barrel.
(( I don't find the of closing the bolt while holding down the trigger to be used in troubleshooting any known issue that I am aware of. If there is "end play" between the bolt head and the breech in the uncocked position, there is no reason to machine your barrel.))
I just seen some marks on the bolt head and could not understand what was making them . And now I know that it is not from firing the gun , it is from closing the bolt on a empty chamber . Like I said a uncocked firing pin has a little end play. Even my custom actions have a little end play when the firing pin is not cocked .
(( To prove me wrong you mark the bolthead, you close the bolt while pulling the trigger and thrusting the bolt forward. I concede. You got me.))
That is not what I'm talking about . A uncocked firing pin , the boit has a little end play and made some rub marks on the front of my bolt is what I have found out .
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtinNC
Art, I agree with you, several others get your point… even our resident Savage Super-Guru agreed with you in post #11. But some will never agree, even when you present concrete evidence. I recommend just letting it lie because the argument of “getting the last word in”, will never end. Be above it. You know what’s happening. And like I said, even though it’s fine as is, if you wish to pull the barrel & take a couple thous. off the breech for piece of mind, go for it. You can’t hurt it. This is, after all, why the Savage Barrel Nut System is so desirable. Replacing & head spacing the barrel takes but minutes!