Anybody only pillar bed their Axis and leave the action free floated? Not bedded so to speak? If so, how’s it doing and do you plan to leave it that way? Thanks, Matt
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Anybody only pillar bed their Axis and leave the action free floated? Not bedded so to speak? If so, how’s it doing and do you plan to leave it that way? Thanks, Matt
I only tend to bed the front lug anyway, and just doing that is so easy I don't see the point of not doing it. But bedding the entire thing is a pain...
I’ve never done either one but bedding the action sure sounds like it can be more tedious for sure. From what I have read just bedding the pillars on the Axis helps more than anything. Bedding the action also only gains you a minuscule amount of accuracy. But I’m a far, far cry from any kind of expert on the subject. Or even knowledgeable for that matter. Just reading and learning what I can.
If it's shooting as well as you need i wouldn't bother. A poor glass bedding job is worse than if you'd left it alone.
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Saw a few You tube Vids on this...Good luck
Not that interested in bedding the action. If the pillars will suffice that’s all I’m interested in. Those videos didn’t look much fun.
I used lamp rod to piller bed my boyds pro varmint I used to hand drill and ended up having to fill a little more then if I used a drill press still came out good and I am satisfied with the resultshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c243d36836.jpg
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No plans to bed the action as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmracer358
Not at this point the rifle is currently forsaleQuote:
Originally Posted by chewy1010
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Are there any good articles on this site for pillar bedding?
https://youtu.be/UK3g81i6-so
Try this for pillar bedding
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I'm glad that guy has a channel.
Very good vid. Thanks for sharing.Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmracer358
Thanks I have a YouTube problem lol you can find almost anything on there.
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Yeah, you can find almost anything on utube (never could figure out why youtube isn't shortened to utube !)...., but just because it's on youtube doesn't mean it's true, or accurate. I once watched this kid work on a Stihl chainsaw and he's talking about using all these sae size wrenches. Whoa man, Stihl has probably been metric ever since Stihl began. It just so happens there are some sizes which are very close, but they are two different entities.
Ok guys,
I did pillar and glass bed my action on my Axis 22-250. I have the Prairie Hunter (Boyds) on mine. doing the Pillars is the easy part of the job. I also used the above YouTube from (Social Regressive). The guy did a great job on the instructional parts of the video and they worked well. BTW, Social's Father in law is a retired gunsmith. That's how he knows all this stuff.
With that being said, Bedding the action is an entirely different and an extreme PITA. Use the playdo and tape just as he advised and disassemble the trigger mechanism at the rear of the action before bedding.
I pillar bedded first, (trying not to have to bed the action) and that worked for a little while... But as the stock got broken in, it started to develop horizontal stringing. 10 shots it would be spot on, but then it would move an inch right and stay there until barrel was cold again. I didn't like that, so the glass bedding was the next step.
WARNING: did I say it is a major PITA?
I agree, the video is well done. My stock should arrive today. I'll take your word for it and forego bedding the action. If I'm reading you right, bedding the action is somewhat of a challenge? Heck, I'm half afraid that I'll screw something up bedding the pillars.Quote:
Originally Posted by SageRat Shooter
Gunny,
Let me know how that works out for you! Just when I had myself convinced that I could do both if need be, Sagerat comes in and rains all on my parade! I'm with you though. I think pillars first. Get that confidence up. Then maybe try the action. It seems like the pillars might need a small saddle sanded into them to match the contour of the action. Let me know if that's the case. Thanks, Matt
Sorry fellas, I didn't mean to "Rain on your parade", but just wanted ya'll to be a little more informed than I was, when I decided to go down this road you're on. I didn't know a dang thing about working on guns when I did mine. I watched the video above like ya'll and the additional one where he discovers he needed to take the trigger assembly off before he did the bedding, so he had to start over.Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy1010
I, like you, decided to try the pillars first, which wasn't that difficult with the right tools (drill press and a good bit). I had my dad help me with it, as he's been working on his own guns for as long as I've been alive.
Bottom line.... The Axis is a good rifle to try and learn what you're doing as far as working on a rifle. It's cheap and if you mess it up, your not out that much $$$. I got pretty far down the rabbit hole and even threw a CBI math grade barrel on it. She'll put 5 in a nickel @ 100 yards now.
I'll never be able to sell it for even close to what I've got into it, but the lessons I leaned were priceless.
Come on man! You know o was joking. It’s all in fun and games and I/we appreciate the info. Cheap or not I still don’t want to have to sit and wait on the stock to get here only to have the frustration of screwing it up. I appreciate it. Matt
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy1010
No worries man... I knew what you meant... :peace:
I'm sure it helps, but the "lamp rod" tubes are more what I would call bushings than pillars. They may help keep the action-bolts from collapsing the stock; but they aren't large enough to support the action. You can countersink the bolt holes from the action down to almost the surface at the bolt heads and then use mold release wax on the bolts with the smaller "pillars" in place and the epoxy will form it's own pillars in the stock. PS - Use Brownells Acraglas (or similar) for bedding epoxy and not a "soft" epoxy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEyB9USP-cw
There's a good video on the Brownell's site as well.
https://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-...SABEgIi7PD_BwE
I just used .5" long steel spacer (front action screw) and a 1" long steel spacer (rear action screw) that you can get at any hardware store. They were the same diameter that Social used on his (I think it was 3/8 or 1/4 inch) I got mine a Lowes... Had to rough up the outside of them so the epoxy would have something to hold onto, and had to take off about a 1/8" maybe less on the rear spacer.
It worked perfectly IMO, and I've done it on both my 22-250 and my 260 Rem.
Well, my stock came in yesterday. I installed the M*Carbo trigger spring kit and put everything together. My next challenge is replacing the scope that came with the rifle with a Bushnell Banner Dusk & Dawn 4-12×40 scope. I had to order a one piece Weaver base (48347). The two piece bases are too far apart to mount it. Also had to order a metal trigger guard.
I'm still pretty leery about pillar bedding the thing. The truth is that I'm not a good enough shot for it to make a difference. I don't plan on thousand yard competition shooting. I just want to make the occasional coyote very dead. Maybe later.
You guys have been a lot of help and I really appreciate you all.
Worse case you get to try it as is and if you change your mind later you can compare before and after to see if it helped.
Like working up a good reload - change one thing at a time.
Pillars need to be flat on top. If you try to make a "saddle" to rest on, it will be imperfect and actually make matter worse because the pillar will now push the action left or right, inducing stress or binding, wherever the imperfection is. Simply use a flat surface and the curved bottom of the action will naturally rest there perfectly fine. If you choose bed the action with epoxy, the epoxy will fill the gap or curve of the action perfectly without inducing stress.Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy1010
ALso, pillars are not intended to do anything more than prevent the action screws from crushing the stock material and changing torque. THey are not supposed to
"support the action". No matter how they are designed, pillars are no substitute for bedding and bedding is no substitute for pillaring. Having said that, your rifle may not need bedding. If it does not need bedding, it will not benefit from it.
My bad. They do on a Mauser action with a metal trigger and magazine that form a rigid "box" within the stock. Savage has the recoil lug to hold the action in place.Quote:
Originally Posted by foxx
I am going to be pillar bedding my axis II into a boyds prairie hunter stock with a v3 metal parts kit next week. Ive talked to a few of the old gunsmiths in my area - southern TN - and they all say to just pillar bed the back and to bed the recoil lug and front pillar. I am also going to bed my metal trigger guard if it doesnt fit flush and keep the barrel free floated - spaced during the bedding. I will let you know if I have any problems. Good Luck with your project.
Please do! Thanks
Alright fellas, today’s the day! I have my pillars from V3 Precision and the mag catch. So I have my drill press all squared up and ready. I’m going to drill both action hole screws out to 3/8” and install the pillars. Then I just sand the pillars until they’re flush on the screw head side of the stock and in the action bed side? In other words, file and or sand until they are both flush with the stock and grease up the screws install the pillars and epoxy in place? Is that correct? I need a little guidance and assurance. And a little nudge!
THat will likely work as well as any plan. I normally just epoxy them in place, after they are completely set I grind down with a dremel if too proud. Finally I grind away much of the inside to be sure the action screw are not touching the inside of the pillars.
As long as I haven’t messed with the action bedding the action should remain the same and the barrel should still be floated, right? On the video he drilled the holes slightly larger than the pillars. To me that could introduce some side to side play that could cause some barrel interference. He didn’t mention anything about that in the video. I know I read somewhere about putting a few strips of blue painters tape down the length of the barrel to clearance it from the stock. Am I over thinking this? Also the pillars are 3/8”. What size hole should I drill?
Holes are oversized for pillars because they are filled with epoxy or whatever you're using to secure it to the stock.
Speaking of epoxy. I’ve been building RC airplanes for 25 years. Will a good two part epoxy suffice for a simple pillar job or should I at least use something like JB Weld or even more specialized? I know Devcon isn’t that special of an epoxy.
Devcon 10110 is better than the typical Devcon stuff you get from the hardware store. It ain't worth getting for this job, but I would not trust just any old epoxy. Some of it is too brittle and not all that tough for metal work. JB Weld (not the JB Quik stuff) works fine and is about $5 at Walmart, usually a bit more elsewhere.
I’m standing here at Lowe’s and can’t find either one! They have Devcon but it’s like a 5 minute epoxy and two racks of JB Quick!
Got it! Okay JB Weld it is.