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I can not get my hands on a 6BR go-gauge just now so I'm going to set the head space with a resized piece of brass. The results will be zero head space, is that correct, is that what I want, or am I missing another step? I understand how to do the no-go test with some tape.
I read a lot of old post on this subject and but still have to ask.
Are you looking to buy a 6BR go guage? Or borrow one?
Dennis
PS: It's best to set the headspace with the proper tools
Borrow. I know a guy that has one but he's not available and I wanted to get my new barrel set up and shoot it. Do you have one for sale?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
Full length sizing a case most of the times makes it 0.004" (or more) shorter than a go-gauge so this will not work. Unless you only feed it full length sized brass that measure the same as the one you used as the go gauge. and no other ammo will ever fit in there.
Factory ammo will be closer to go-gauge length.
If you have a headspace comparator or a case bump gauge you can use a once fired piece of brass as a no-go gauge. Then bump the shoulder 0.003" of another once fired brass and use it as a go-gauge.
Otherwise you need the proper go & no-go gauges. Or use 1 or 2 pieces of masking tape on the head of the go-gauge and use that as a no-go-gauge... 1 piece of masking tape = 0.002"
If you're really set to do it asap, Factory ammo will do the job ... but disable the trigger by any means for safety sakes.
You guys are over thinking this. If you are only going to shoot reloads and the die you are using is the one you are going to reload with then set your die and resize your brass. Then put your piece of tape on the base of the brass and set your head space. You now have your head space set to 1-2 thousandths clearance (depends on thickness of tape) for your reloads.
If this is not the die you will be using wait for the gauge.
Zero, Factory ammo will vary from lot to lot so you could set with factory ammo and not be able to chamber the next box you buy. Factory ammo is notorious for excess head space.
You can rent the headspace gauges here...
http://www.4-dproducts.com/displayit...7&tname=rental
They are $8.00 to rent for the set but they have a $10.00 min order. :confused:
I may have one I will sell you, or I will let you borrow mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector
Just send a PM if you are interested.
This is the best answer you have gotten.Quote:
Originally Posted by earl39
Don't set your barrel on factory ammo. I did that once. I had to re-set that headspace because even the fired brass was so small, the FL die wouldn't even touch it.
Thank you Dennis, PM SENT.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis
[QUOTE=earl39;369296]You guys are over thinking this. If you are only going to shoot reloads and the die you are using is the one you are going to reload with then set your die and resize your brass. Then put your piece of tape on the base of the brass and set your head space. You now have your head space set to 1-2 thousandths clearance (depends on thickness of tape) for your reloads.
If this is not the die you will be using wait for the gauge.
Earl; I'm going to give your suggestion a try. I've read a s**t load of post about this subject on this forum and I think your suggestion make sense. I really like the one die thing. We shall see.
Yep. Dennis is being generous, and it is the "right" way to do it, but I always do what Earl says when building for myself. I think they shoot better that way, too.
I think you should differentiate between experience and new to the game.Quote:
Originally Posted by earl39
New is by far best served with the gauges and then move onto cross checks and get the feel by the above route.
That said that's the best approach for an experienced builder and reload/ shooter I have heard of who is after the tightest most accurate chamber.
Safest is more to the loose side, having worked with Model of 1917 aka Enfield's, those are way loose and I have had no brass issues that were not part of the learning curve on shoulder bump back and need to anneal.
I used the tape method when I installed my .223 barrel but I had once fired lapua brass that came with the barrel. I followed it up and checked it with gauges as well and everything was fine.
Both ways work. First time experience having the no-go is good to have to understand the feel.
Thank you everyone for your replies.
The input given by everyone on this forum is what is helping me, and I believe others to make rational decisions.
I'm not new to 'head spacing' and how it works, it's the tape method that is new to me. I've already done a few trial runs with 'Earls' tape method and I believe it's going to work fine. I will keep you posted.
Along with all that..
The new barrel that I'm head spacing for is a Shilen Match Select in 6BR Norma. I looked at the breach end with a bore scope and it looks like an advertisement photo. It's really impressive.
I have a few Shilen's and I hate how they short-throat them :rant: but with the right loads they are very accurate.
With the masking tape method of making a no-go-gauge, make sure you measure the length of the go-gauge before and after applying the tape to have a good idea of the thickness.
1 piece of tape that is 0.002" thick will give you tighter headspace whereas 2 pieces that add up to 0.004" would make a standard length no-go-gauge.
Short throat, how short? I didn't want to hear that. This whole re-barrel project is because of throat problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero333
I've used it to convert a no go gauge to a field reject for the 1917s (field reject are a bit expensive and you can't get them as a set)
Works a treat, save money and its just a confirmation check that its a typical 1917
OK, I got a hold of a go-gauge. I measured it. It measured at 1.100. My resized cases measure 1.101, this is with the press caming over so there's no slop. Now what, should I head space with the brass?
What brand of press do you have?
What about using virgin brass?
how does it compare to a factory load?
Hector. You do not set the head space with the go gauge tight. You set it where the no go will not allow the bolt to close.
If you have your own brass that you've resized, and never intend to use anything different, you can headspace it off the resized brass. Just don't turn the barrel in so much that the bolt is hard to close on your brass. (I generally close the bolt, put the case in the chamber and spin it in till it stops against the bolt face. Check to be sure the bolt lifts alright, and if it's too tight so as to not lift easily, back it off a bit. Then tighten the barrel nut. Add tape to the case or go gage and check to see that the bolt handle will not close more than 1/2 way against the taped gage).
Robinhood,
The press is a Rock Chucker.
I'm not sure what you mean about using virgin brass. I have some,and it measures 1.098-1.100.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyc
I do not have any factory ammo.
Okay, but my FL sized brass head space is .001 larger then the go gauge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
Yesterday while I was waiting for reply's, I went ahead and resized a piece of brass, adjusting the die until I got .002 more head space-1.103 then a FL sized piece-1.101 and used it as a go gauge and then tape for the no go. it looks like I ended with .0015 of head space clearance. Do you think that is enough?Quote:
Originally Posted by foxx
Measure the thickness of the go-gauge with a piece of tape on it and it should be 0.002" longer with the tape, assuming you're using masking tape. A no-go-gauge is usually 0.004" longer than the go-gauge so with 2 pieces of tape you will have 0.002"-0.0025" to spare. You can always screw the sizing die a little farther down to size the cases another thou, Unless you're already camming over the press fully.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector
Don't forget to remove the ejector plunger when headspacing. Even tho I've done it a couple of times with it in, I already had a good feel from prior barrel swaps for how much to back the barrel out after it hits the go-gauge. Which is next to nothing.
Ohh yea... the 6br will be ok with a "shorter" throat because it has generous neck length.
If your freebore is short, just buy VLD bullets like the 95smk 107smk, 95 bergerVLD and 105 Berg.VLD&VLD hunting.
Stay away from the 105amax and the 105 hornady bthp, they don't work well with little freebore.
I put on my 308 barrel and was good to have the gauges.
Different than putting the light barrel on and off and a lot more adjusting to get it right.
Nice to have the go no go for that back and forth. As time goes on not a big deal but I think they are worth the investment (field reject no, just add the tape to the no go if you get into needing to check that far out)
Sounds perfect. Your head space needs to be about .001 longer than your sized brass and .002 longer than the min. that you go gauge measures. If you dont have a no go you will have to use tape to set your head space. Even if you are a few thousandths long for factory ammo you will not have case head separation. Just make sure you size all of your brass to fit after being fired. Anneal when the bullets get tougher to push in. You will know when if you are feeling for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hector
I'v got my press camming over harder now and was able to get the sized brass down .001 under the go gauge. So, from what you are saying I should be good. I hope to shoot it tomorrow. I'll report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
I think so. Your shell holder is touching the bottom of the die right?
Yes. It was before also but I guess not hard enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
I got the X-Caliber barrel Friday and assmgled the rifle.
While it went well, the dynamics were different that playing with the light pencil barrel that came off (and back on and off 3 or 4 times)
The pencil barrel wanted to turn so it was a matter of turning back a bit and a bit of Kentucky windage as it were to get the set right.
The Bull barrel did not turn at all and when tightened it pulled back (probably the threads margin) and went loose.
It took about 5 back and forth before I got it right.
Nice to have the gauges for that and the higher confidence in a those procedure wise.
Please give us a range report good or bad but most likely good with your barrel choice.