Striker Talk (Split from sticky)

This is a good.sticky!
Right now I am collecting info. for loading my Striker in .308win. for elk. I drew an Oregon high desert Elk tag. The shots can range over 400 yards. I wouldn't shoot over 400 yards myself. But I have been asking which bullet will give me good penetration and expandtion at that range. So far Accubond has been the most recommended bullet using Varget to send it down range still traveling fast enough for good results at putting elk down.
If anyone has anything to add, I would like to hear what you have to say!
Rupe

I have a first generation Striker, and this suggestion helped me a bunch. Not my original post....

To adjust trigger, I start at the front and adjust take-up. Next I adjust the spring tension and lighten it until the trigger pops, than add in about 1 turn. Next to the sear adjustment screw under the sear. Adjust in until trigger breaks, now out 1 full turn.

If you have a 1st gen, the rear roller needs to move freely, no corrosion. You may have to lube it and turn it unitl it rolls freely and make sure its nice and shiny on the outside.

Finally, cock it and bounce on bench on rear one time. If it pops, go and add a little spring tension.

A trigger job can be done, it involves polishing the sear face and the lever parrallel, and shiny.

Reassemble and don't torque screws too tightly, 30 inch pounds is plenty. Once snug, stop and try to cock it. If it binds, loosen 1/4 turn.

Apply a little fingernail polish to all set screws to secure once happy.

Thanks Trapper! I have the 1st. Gen. too. That roller on mine is stuck and I'm not sure how to unstick it without bending something or scaring it. Any ideas?
Rupe

Good morning Rupe,
If I had the same problem I would start with the easy things first and you may already have done some of these.
1. Any parts I have problems with like sticking, grabbing, unseen gremlins in place I can't get to... all these parts will spend the day in my ultra sonic parts cleaner first and see if it can remove the problem.
2. I would use my calipers, and cell phone or good camera and take pictures and measurements for posterity and to be able to send to a parts company to show them exactly what you are looking for. Savage does not show the early model stiker parts list on their website, but you can contact Mr. John Callahan, P.O. Box82, South Hampton, Mass. 01073. John does not work for Savage, but keeps their archives and has resources to help you get old part numbers. He will need a written letter asking for what you need and must have your serial number included.
3. You are like me in that you have the early model center grip and of course all the problems that go along with the trigger bars and roller. Personally I believe you can adjust the trigger to a livable pull if you take your time and don't lose your temper, as I am prone to do.
4. Last and my normally most desperate move is to take the stock off and take the bolt out and take the pistol to a machine shop and let them take measurements and they can make a part for you. Call ahead and see if they are gun enthusiasts before going there, it may help.
I'm not sure I am helping you much, it's just what I would be doing if I ran into your problem.
Good luck,
Trapper :confused:

Thanks Trapper, My trigger must have had work done to it because it is very very smooth a nd breaks clean and light. I heard the previous owner shot IHMSA with it. The only problem I have had with it was the safety was almost impossible to move to the safe position. I adjusted that and now it all works good. But that roller. Doesn't anyone make a drop in trigger assembly for replacing the 1st. gen.? I would love to have an adjustable trigger so I could switch back and forth between hunting pull and target pull. Such as a few oz. to 2 1/2 lbs. that would be nice.
Thanks for your help, I'll see what I can do.
Rupe

Rupe,
I had the pleasure of spending the morning today with a really good gunsmith that like the Strikers. I asked about the roller on the end of the trigger bars, and he said it is not supposed to roll, that to just polish it and it will help make your trigger pull a lot smoother. He has no clue why they call it a roller, when they pin it in where it can't move at all. :help:

Man Trapper I'm glad you found out about the roller not being a roller. I was getting ready to force it pretty quick now that Elk season is over. Thanks for the info.

Rupe

Help needed, I would like to bed my Striker action, but I have.never bedded one before

With all the trigger linkage in the way, I was hoping some of you Striker owner could post up some pictures of bedding jobs so I can see.what.was.done. I have the stock tupperware stock. Also I was thinking of putting a piece of aluminum along the length of the forestock to stiffen it up a bit to keep the stock and barrel from touching so the barrel stays free floated. So if anyone has photo's of thier bedding I would really be thankful.
If you can't post pics. I would be.happy to PM you my email.
Thank you in advance,
Rupe

I just bed the front of the receiver and recoil lug, then leave the rear resting on the "pillar".

Andrew

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yorketransport

I just bed the front of the receiver and recoil lug, then leave the rear resting on the "pillar".

Andrew

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You didn't need to raise the tang area? or is it lower the tang area?? ;-)
rupe

Some folks like to have a very slight gap between the tang and stock.

I'm not sure how much it may help. On one of the best shooting rifles I have ever owned I sanded down the stock at the tang area and then bedded the tang with AcraGlas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JCalhoun

Some folks like to have a very slight gap between the tang and stock.

I'm not sure how much it may help. On one of the best shooting rifles I have ever owned I sanded down the stock at the tang area and then bedded the tang with AcraGlas.

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It seems to me that if the tang wasn't bedded you would have a pressure point there unless as you said sand it down leaving a gap

But that's coming from someone (me) that jas never tried bedding a stock before

Rupe

Hey Guys; Kinda new to the site. I am in the process of building a Striker and want to get a target stock for it, A rear handle. I have contacted several companies and no one makes (at this time) a wood stock with rear handle. Any leads would be greatly appreciated
Thank You
BJB

Check out specialty pistols forum. 7 fingers makes stocks and there may be some others. Post in the want ads and something will come up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BJBstriker

Hey Guys; Kinda new to the site. I am in the process of building a Striker and want to get a target stock for it, A rear handle. I have contacted several companies and no one makes (at this time) a wood stock with rear handle. Any leads would be greatly appreciated
Thank You
BJB

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Welcome to the.forum and.to the.Striker shooter family. There is.a.place in Montana that will build you a.wood.stock. write to sales@rifle-stocks.com
I got a quote of around $1200.oo in labor not counting the.cost of the wood. It was way out of my pay grade, but maybe it will work for tou.
I can't remember what their website name is. Sorry, the.guy makes really nice.stocks!
Rupe

BJB, welcome to the site and to the family of crazies that like the Strikers. Russo was making very nice stocks and here is the link, but I am not sure if he still is. Stocks http://russoriflestocks.com/Pistol_Stocks.html

Thanks Gentleman
I have checked with Russo and they no longer make Savage striker/target stocks. I have tried to contact 7fingers and have not been able to as of yet. I Live those 7finger sticks
$1200 for a stock....... I'm a Nurse not a Dr.

OK......BRAIN FART...Would a laminated savage rifle stock, cut down to size work as a striker stock. Provided it is for left bolt

It think so. It would place the trigger at the rear like a XP-100 instead on the center like the Striker.

Sorry, I'm wrong about that!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BJBstriker

Thanks Gentleman
I have checked with Russo and they no longer make Savage striker/target stocks. I have tried to contact 7fingers and have not been able to as of yet. I Live those 7finger sticks
$1200 for a stock....... I'm a Nurse not a Dr.

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Ya that's pretty spendy and being that was just the labor. A good piece of wood could cost half that, so you could have $1700 wrapped up in a stock. I would rather have most of that cash spent on the barrel and action and just paint my old Black factory stock. haha
Money just doesn't grow on the sagebrush around here. I understand a custom stock isn't cheap but how could it cost $1200 just in labor? Maybe I'm just out of touch with reality?? :-)

Rupe

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BJBstriker

OK......BRAIN FART...Would a laminated savage rifle stock, cut down to size work as a striker stock. Provided it is for left bolt

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That is what I have thought about too. I don't see why it wouldn't work. Has anyone on here done that before???
Rupe

I have seen thumbhole stocks cut down for a rear grip. http://specialtypistols.infopop.cc/e...4/m/6270050166

A left hand thumbhole would probably work.

That's what I'm looking for. Does anyone know which savage rifle has the same bolt measurements as a savage striker. And I'm referring to mounting to the stock bolts

I'm not 100% sure, but I think a small action stock from a model 10 would work.
Rupe

But I could.be.way wrong too! :-)

OOPPSIE on my part. My dumba$$ forgot about the action screw spacing on Striker action are different.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JCalhoun

OOPPSIE on my part. My dumba$$ forgot about the action screw spacing on Striker action are different.

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But couldn't you fill the stock action.screw holes and drill new ones for it? The rear screw would be infront of the.grip on the rifle stock????
Rupe

Question: How is an after market trigger (Timney or Basix) attached to the action when you build a rear gripped Striker? Any photo's of close up shots of the attachement would be cool too! I have.thought about this and have.just never come up with a good answer, so I thought I would ask.
Thanks in advance,
Rupe

You need to replace both the trigger and the mag box since they are sort of tied together. If you make the gun a single shot and put a plug in the mag well, then the trigger will attach just like a standard one.

Andrew

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yorketransport

You need to replace both the trigger and the mag box since they are sort of tied together. If you make the gun a single shot and put a plug in the mag well, then the trigger will attach just like a standard one.

Andrew

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Wow! well that's easier then I thought. I was picturing welding cutting etc etc.
Thank You Andrew
Rupe