Printable View
I've read on here where you can not retrofit a non AccuTrigger rifle with an AccuTrigger without a lot of difficulty. I haven't tried it yet but here is a picture of my new Savage M11 non AccuTrigger along side my 10 ML-II with AccuTrigger. I haven't tried swapping them yet but to me it looks like the AccuTrigger should fit right on?
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...psdq2wkdig.jpg
[QUOTE
Ever since its introduction, the Savage Accutrigger has been in high demand. Unfortunately, the Accutrigger is not retrofittable to a gun that did not have it originally. The receiver is machined differently so it is not compatible with other receivers][/QUOTE]
Found this. Savage must sell the Accutrigger separately. This quote is odd though. Why buy an accu if you already have and accu or why buy one if it wont fit a non accu receiver?
I have one for my ML but not the M11. I won't buy one until I'm sure it actually fits.
Wont take you but 20 mins to switch them if that. You could be the one who tells us. The whole trigger assembly comes off in one piece.
I can't find separate Accutriggers for sale. Ill keep looking.
I still think some nonaccus can be converted to Accus. But im sure it is wrong to say any of the older style triggers can be updated. However, if Sav doesn't sell them that answers that question.
OK heres the answer from the FAQ on Savages website: NO
https://savagearms.zendesk.com/entri...or-my-firearm-
I have 3 flat back 110 actions that I have added accutriggers to. It is not very difficult to do.
You bought the triggers where?Quote:
Originally Posted by SUTTERERMAN85
Did you read the link I posted above?
Savage is saying two things.
1 trigger is available
2 cant retrofit
Sounds like you are saying yea you can buy them but they wont fit your gun.
I think Savage is saying that mostly to discourage Babba from messing with their trigger. There should be a few available as some people dislike them and install after market triggers. Thus the ones they remove could be purchased if those same folks decide to sell them.
Sutterman85 could you elaborate please as I was under the impression it wont or cant work.
I bought a few complete accutriggers here and on another forum. All you do is pull the pin, remove the sear and spring. Pull out the old trigger and drill a small hole under the safety to the accutrigger spring. Reassemble in the reverse order. It's no different than putting an aftermarket trigger in minus drilling the small hole. Don't understand why everyone makes it into such a big deal. Might need to do some opening up in the stock and trigger guard if they are from pre accutrigger guns. Hole in the trigger guards from accutrigger guns is larger. Dremel will do this easily.
^^^^ What he said. I've put them on flat backs and round backs... SF and CF... it can be done. Sometimes it is easy, sometimes it takes some tinkering. I always keep the original safety and bracket, and go from there. Sometimes the 0lder flat backs need a screw in the underside of the safety bar to be adjusted, too. Sometimes I have trouble making them so they can be adjustable, but in that case, I set them where I want them and forget about it. Any Accustrigger (or any other, for that matter) has to be set just above the point (or higher) that they don't go off when closing the bolt, it's just a matter of figuring how how/what it needs to accomplish that.
No, I can't tell you how to do it. Not because I am not willing, I just don't know what to tell you. You gotta be willing to play with it. If you like the safety blade, then it's worth it. If you don't particularly (or ESPECIALLY) like it, there's no point, in my opinion, in trying. There's too many good aftermarket triggers out there for it. Having said that, sometimes the aftermarket triggers need some tinkering, too.
My best advice is study how the three screw triggers work (and the RB Sav-1 or TImney, they are all basically the same) and then study the Accutrigger and the safeties. Once you play around with them and really understand them, they are all pretty good. Also, I have had good luck improving the factory 3 screws and even the Axis triggers. For the Axis I cut coils in the spring, polishing surfaces with emery paper, filing the "step" in the trigger down so as to reduce creep when there's no screw for adjusting it, and tapering/narrowing the sear a bit so there's less surface tension, adding a small flat washer (filed thin and smoothed with emery cloth) to shim the trigger ... If you find the Axis spring was cut too short, simply heat the yellow locktight so as to soften it and twist the spring out a little so it is longer...
So, yes, they can be made to work, and work well. Are they drop-in, easy swaps? No, but it can be done if you take the time to see and understand how the whole mechanism works, including the safety.
Play with them. They can all be made pretty good. But do so at your own risk.
So here is the answer: Savage does not sell separate Accutriggers Yes you can buy used Accutriggers from people who removed their Accutrigger in favor or RBs and Timneys. These discarded Accutriggers can be made to fit non Accutrigger Savages with a little tinkering.
Even the old flat top 110s can be made to use an Accutrigger. The tit that stabilzes the spring onto the receiver can be simulated by drilling a hole under the safety.
foxx, what do you mean by: "If you like the safety blade, then it's worth it", in reference to the after market triggers such as the SAV1?
He is referring to the silver blade on the Accutrigger. Some like it, others hate it.
Of course.......I was just having a stupid moment. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by LHitchcox
The safety blade is disliked by some but if you learn to use it you forget it there. Some who hate the Accutrigger wlll pay $200 for a double set trigger for their custom Mauser yet the Accutrigger is a modern updated double set trigger that comes standard on many Savages. Don't judge an Accutrigger by using it once because it takes a few tries for the blade to seemingly disappear.
I'll take anyone's accutrigger that doesn't like it.
I'd like one myself, unfortunately most on here are US residents and I'm in Canada!
Got my accutrigger parts today and it's a no-go. First of all the Accutrigger safety will not work because there is an extra groove milled into the receiver of accutrigger models that non-accutrigger receivers do not have. I think I could make the Accutrigger work with the non-Accutrigger safety however. Secondly, the sear on the Accutrigger is different than the sear on non-Accutrigger models. I didn't realize it has a different model number. I think it may work if I ordered the correct sear and sear pin but I've got so much sunk in this now I think I should just quit now and get a Rifle Basix?
You would need to use the original safety, for sure. Sometimes there is need for tweaking there, too. I would not worry about the sear, the old ones work just fine with the accutrigger.
You could sell it for what you paid for it, no problem.
If you LIKE the safety blade in the accutrigger, and you can tinker with it, I'd say its worth trying. I have success with the same thing. If all you want is a nice crisp, clean, no creap, no overtravel hunting trigger at about 2-4 pounds, I'd say go with the RB Sav-1.
If you need a new home for the Accutrigger...
You're right. I got it together with the current sear. However, now I can't get the safety to work. If I adjust the safety screw so the safety will slide the gun still fires while on safe. Just a fraction of a turn more and the safety will no longer engage.
I'd love to sell it to you but unfortunately I'm from Canada!
Mine works flawlessly.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...08b85471e5.jpg
How did you get the safety to work?
There is a set screw under the safety bar that needs to be adjusted if the safety does not work. I am not talking about the long, more obvious screw that runs thru the back of the trigger, but a small set screw that runs thru the safety bar. It's hard to find, you have to remove everything and inspect the bar.
See below
Is this the screw you are referring to? If so then that's the screw I am referring to above. The problem seems to be there is up and down play in the safety bar. If I adjust the screw to just touch the safety bar the gun will still fire because the safety bar will move upward. If I adjust the screw to remove the play, while on safe, the safety bar drops off of the screw when the safety is off and then it won't return to safe because the screw is in the way. I've adjusted this on the non-Accutrigger and realize you don't have to turn the screw much but I'm talking a minuscule amount here. The picture shown is not my trigger. The one shown is a stock Accutrigger. I'm not able to us the little spring that runs through the trigger housing as that hole is halfway blocked by the non-Accutrigger safety bar. If I was able to get that little spring in then it may hold the safety bar upward slightly and remove the play I'm talking about?
http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...pspkvbw0uc.jpg
The up and down movement you are talking about leads me to think I am right about this... it pretty much confirms what I was thinking... so hang in there and I think we can solve this...
The pic above is not what I am talking about. The safety bar has a set screw that runs thru it and acts as an adjustment for that up and down play. Almost like the fulcrum of a teeter-totter. Only older models had it, not the new designs that use that spring that you are pointing to.
I can't figure out how to post pics... Send me a PM with your cell or e-mail and I will get you a pic of what I am talking about.
I just stripped mine down and I see what you mean. The screw wasn't visible. It's stuck pretty good with red Loctite but I'll get it free and that should solve the problem. I'll post back and let you know.
I have a meeting and will be gone the rest of the morning.
Remove the trigger assembly and then remove the safety bar (it's the last piece, you can only get to it once everything is removed from the action). Hold that safety bar in your hand and inspect it carefully. There should be a tiny "tit" on the top side of the bar, somewhere close to the middle. that's the set screw I am talking about. If you look real close you can see that it can be turned so as to adjust how high or low it protrudes thru the bar. It takes a real small allen wrench and is likely very stiff. Once that is turned out a little bit it should stop the up and down play you are talking about.
"Ah hah!" said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw. :)
Just gotta play with that a bit and it should work.
Okay, we're almost there. I've got everything working as it should, however my pull weight is about 3.75 lbs. The trigger I ordered is:
ACCU-TRIG ASSY, 2.5 LB MIN, SILVER P/N: 105531.
My question now is: how do I get the pull weight down to just under 3lbs? The pull weight spring looks like it's already screwed in as far as it will go!
You now need the brown varmint spring from gun shack. You could try cutting a coil or so off the silver one though and reshape it so the little tit will align it back in the action.
I checked but didn't see them on their website. Apparently NSS and SSS sell them also but I'm not sure any of them will ship to Canada. I don't think there would be any problem shipping a spring but then again what do I know.
If you're in Ontario, try Gretch outdoors, in Mount Forest, they're a factory authorized service center.
Heard back from Gretch outdoors. No springs!
Sharp Shooter Supply = No
Got one coming from Savage. $2 but $25 shipping. The cost of living north of the border!!