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Hey guys, I need some help. I just finished painting duracoat on my bolt handle and 2 of my pistols the only problem is I messed up and got a few runs
>:(. Any idea on how to fix it? I thought about sanding it down and applying a coat of krylon on top of the duracoat since duracoat is expensive. Thanks in advance!
Well if you want to get good at it, you need to practice with "IT".
I would sand were the runs are, then light sand the whole thing with 600, then buy the duracoat clear and clear the whole project. it should blend ok. or you could do the the same with can of Krylon or automotive clear. Good luck...Quote:
Originally Posted by scnewt
Good luck sanding the duracoat!
Yea, I'm attempting to sand it off of my hands now! This will be my last time using the shake n pray kit. Worked out the last two times but that was on savage actions which do not have any cuts or grooves to worry about. I might try krylon. Cheap and their is already 3 layers of duracoat so this is just strictly a cosmetic issue.
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I would bead blast it off and start over. You will get a new fresh surface for the paint to stick to and you wont have any runs to try to fix.
If I could blast I would but I don't have the equipment:(.
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Try your local vocational college. They might be willing to do it and propbably do have bead or some media for blasting.
El Lobo
Pictures would help!!
Good idea. I can get some pictures monday. I am away now trying to get some hunting in before the end of deer season here in Alabama.Quote:
Originally Posted by ellobo
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I'm thinking about using the shake n spray kit on my savage action. Did it work out pretty well? Do you coat inside the action as well? Not trying to hijack the thread just curious.
We're can you buy it at I haven't see it in a can
The shake and spray kit is ok. I used it on two savage actions and it did fine. The problem with the kit is the prevail sprayer thats included. It does not give consistant spray so what happens is that it switch from a light spray to a heavy spray randomly. Thats what caused my problems this last time. I highly recommend for you to buy the duracoat and a sprayer separate. I have bought three kits already and if I had just bought the paint and not the kit everytime, I would have saved enough to have bought a spray gun too. I'm very unhappy with the way the kit did this time. I think I might just buy the paint and send it and the pistols to an auto body shop this time because it's going to take allot of work to fix this now. I even noticed last night that the bolt handle off of my savage has bubbles on it.>:(
If you still want the kit it's available at Midway usa or directly from them.
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One more thing, I did coat the inside of my actions on the savages, however I would not do that to any automatic gun. The paint wore down on the bolt raceways and it worked out fine. I just cycled the bolt while the paint was not fully cured (within a month of painting) to make sure I still had good clearance.
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Great, the matte black duracoat appears to be gloss now on my guns. Leads me to believe that there is more wrong with the paint than I suspected.
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Get the Tactical black. It is much flatter than the matte black.Quote:
Originally Posted by scnewt
Ill remember that but for the meantime I'm going to try and repair the paint. Thanks
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Don't do it.... Duracoat is a great finish (for what it is) and can be nice - but their kit with the pressurized can will NOT do the job very well at all (you'll be one of the lucky few if it does). Have a buddy let you borrow his air brush and compressor (or go rent one) if you want it to come out correct and looking sweet.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdfrench
I have done several firearms using a Preval sprayer that turned out first rate.
Yep, It was when I started using an airbrush I started having trouble. With the prevail you need to clean the nozzle after every coat..or even more often than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by TORCHRIDER
I think that it's chancey and now that the paint has messed up I will need to buy more anyway. I might as well get a spray gun since this just went from a $40 job to a $80 job because of a double order of paint. Spray guns are just better and I don't want to risk it again.
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You might have gotten bloss black instead of matte!
typically gloss based paints tend to get runs more then the flat based paint products
Could be true, it has allot more shine than the savage actions I duracoated in the past. Maybe its due to mismarking at the factory or the fact that I really cleaned these parts good before painting. I mean I took the finish down to bare metal and used brake parts cleaner to remove any lube or residue.
That could be part of it as well. if you had nice shiny parts the paint might not have had much to stick to.
did you rough up the surfaces with some scotch bright first?
I use Duracoat all the time but use an airbrush. I am not familiar with the spray kits but, mixing the paint and hardner can change the gloss effect of flat paint. The tactical colors are the flattest colors but even if the directions are not followed and to much hardner is added it will shine.
Too much hardener will do this too. I bought a matte clear and went over my muzzleloader that I sprayed in their French Army pattern with the SL version of their paints and dulled it right back where I wanted it. The SL is supposed to be more durable and self lubricating and not burnish as bad, but it does have more sheen than the original. I use the tactical colors when possible for flatter finishes now.Quote:
Originally Posted by scnewt
I have heard that a paint stripper rated for epoxy paints will take off duracoat. I haven't had a chance to try. If you aren't worried about the finish underneath it might be worth a shot instead of trying to sand it all down.
I sanded the surface but I think next time I will use something courser than 220 grit. You all have been very informative and I know what to do next time. I will repainting one of the frames and the slides off of the pistols and repainting the bolt handle because it does not match the duracoat that was already on the rifle it goes to. I think that it will be possible to get the finish sanded off because it is not fully hardened yet (takes a month) and I don't believe it would hurt to leave a little of the old duracoat on before the new stuff goes on.
Thanks!
the last 2 guns i painted with dura coat i used a small touch-up hvlp spray gun i got at menards for like $25. worked so much better than the airbrush! didn't have to stop every 4 minutes to refill the jar with paint. it's also more adjustable. just practice a little bit with the adjustments on some scrap pieces to get the hang of it. also i found a little less hardner and a fine spray pattern gives a good flat finish with the matte colors.
Substantial!Quote:
Originally Posted by scott597