School me on muzzle brakes please

Hey guys,
I'm thinking about getting a brake put on my 280AI. The recoil isn't too bad within a certain amount of rounds but beyond that I catch myself flinching some, and I like being able to see my shots.
Seems the majority are 5/8x24 threads, I think I can handle that. I'd prefer to install the brake myself (after my my guy threads the barrel). If I understand correctly, timing a brake is just making sure that the ports are lined up correctly on the barrel(ie..ports go left/right aside as opposed to top/bottom)..is that right? And to achieve that you can use crush washers to make sure it's timed. I've got the general idea I think, just want to make sure before I get into it.
I like the tank brake LR uses and the ones from muzzlebrakesandmore.Com seem decent. Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Scooter

What I know about brakes:
Probably the most misspelled word in the shooting dictionary.

Some brakes can be indexed or timed with crush washers or jam nut. I have a few AAC suppressor mount brakes that specifically say not to use anything other than a shim, though this is undoubtedly more important for a suppressor than most brakes. If your barrel guy is turning your threads, he may also be able to cut them so the brake indexes without any sort of secondary hardware. For example, when I went to Apache to make my Edge barrel, I told him I'd be using a JPRE brake. The arrangement he came up with would be to put a chamber and receiver threads on the barrel and send it to me. I would then headspace the barrel on my receiver, mark the 12 o'clock position on the muzzle, and send it back to him with the brake. He'd then be able to cut the muzzle threads so the brake would tighten against the barrel shoulder.

That's the plan, anyway. As of my invoice date four months ago, I have not seen evidence it's progressed to step one yet.

Thanks Hotolds! 😉
Thanks for the info DrT, I'll check with my guy and see what he thinks. I'll look at those couple I'm thinking about and see the specifics.
I knew you had ordered the edge a while back, and I hadn't seen any updates on it....
Thanks guys!
Scooter

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https://www.americanprecisionarms.co...i-fat-*******/

^^^APA Brakes are money! I prefer the Lil ******* Gen II for anything under 30cal. THey are a little more costly, but intall is a 5 min job and only requires a 1" Wrench or crescent wrench to snug it up just slightly. I've taken it off to clean many times and reinstalled it without zero shift numerous times as well and it's now sitting on it's 3rd barrel. So, I would say the cost is a one time investment as long as you clean it up now and then (Every few hundred rounds or so)

Performance info, My 243win shooting 115DTACs over 3000FPS almost doesn't move using this brake in combination with my 17lbs comp rifle. I can cycle and fire accurate shots every 2secs or so at full speed without losing the target in the scope at all. So I would say it knocks recoil down tremendously. In a solid prone position I may come off target .3-.5 Mils during recoil. It's very efficient.

Shots in this video were on a 6-8" plate at 400yds.

https://youtu.be/MUdU3Mr4iN8

ive shot most BRAKES and there is a reason i shoot the tanks..WHAT EVER brake you decide to go with heres a little tip for you...when you have the barrel threaded make sure the smith threads it so your muzzle is flush inside the first port in the break..if the muzzle/crown is recessed back in the threaded part of the brake it builds up a ring of carbon and can/will cause issues.

this is how you want it threaded...

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...1448103151.jpg

a little harder to see but you get the idea....

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...1463449094.jpg

^^^ LongRange you know we talk a lot, but I hate that brake more than any other lol! That is the worst brake to shoot next too and pretty much the only one I've ever complained about on 308 base cartridge rifles. Magnums are however, their own beasts.

no one likes them except the guy shooting the rifle its on lol.

The type brakes pictured no doubt perform better, and the side ports are a must for belly shooters.
But the ones like the Vias with all round holes work well also and in some opinions make for a more
attractive installation plus no timing is involved. Shooting from a bench the type wont matter.

the Vias styles are the worst IMHO...your rifle will jump all over the place...as i said ive shot most and the JP recoil eliminator has the least amount of muzzle movement.

What I can't hear you?
Just kidding can't go wrong with JP. Running in on my .308 (shoots like a .22) and my .223 (sever overkill) but love them. Just make sure you and your neighbors have ear plugs.

Thanks guys!
Wathe your video LW....the rifle move more with you opening/closing the bolt than when fired! I just glanced at those. A bit pricey but I never heard a bad word about them.
LR, thanks for the tip....and....that brake looks sick! I shoot from bench and prone, and do most of my longer range shooting prone.
I noticed on the apartment you specify the dia you want. Is it the same with the JP or does it just have a standard hole?
Scooter

Scooter

I have a JP tank brake on my 260 and I installed this on my son's 300winmag. I believe JP says that it almost as effective as the tank.

"Working in other professional shooters, we arrived at last at a truly high-performance, match-legal rifle compensator that maximizes the potential of the common size limitation while maintaining nearly the same recoil reduction and neutrality that characterized the original JP Recoil Eliminator. To this day, the JP Compensator is the standout most efficient device of its type. Since its release, the JPTRE series has grown well beyond its competition origins. For years, it's been the choice of shooters who prefer a slimmer, more compact configuration without crossing over into a more tactical aesthetic."

Here's a good read for you...should help you make up your mind...

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/0...tay-on-target/

and another tip...have the break creakoted with micro slick...nothing sticks to the micro slick so no carbon build up.

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Originally Posted by LongRange

and another tip...have the break creakoted with micro slick...nothing sticks to the micro slick so no carbon build up.

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This is an interesting idea I have never thought of. Might give it a try.

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Originally Posted by LongRange

no one likes them except the guy shooting the rifle its on lol.

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No kidding. As far as I'm concerned, muzzle brakes are the Devil's work. If you're not man enough to handle your weapon without a brake, go ahead and put one on. But please don't come to the range and set up within 3 benches either side of where I shoot, thank you very much.

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Originally Posted by Mozella

No kidding. As far as I'm concerned, muzzle brakes are the Devil's work. If you're not man enough to handle your weapon without a brake, go ahead and put one on. But please don't come to the range and set up within 3 benches either side of where I shoot, thank you very much.

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Seriously? Not man enough to handle my weapon? Seems to me there's an awful lot of people use them....so the people shooting the mighty 6br in competition that use a brake can't handle their weapon?
Sure I'm good for 20-30 rds no problem with my 280AI, but say 50, 60, 100 rds....not so much. Guess nobody needs to shoot a 338 Lapua either because to the best of my recollection all of those come from the factory with a brake.
Scooter

We find the Vias type brakes do in fact work well, but as I stated the fugly ones do work better.
I think the bipod can be the culprit also when discussing muzzle jump.
Main purpose for them to my mind is seeing hits more than recoil reduction.
But then we don't shoot the number of shots some competetors do.
Muzzel jump can also be controlled by the type front rest used, and for hunting that's what we do.
There is no jump even with the bigger guns.

Ive gotten a couple from Nathan on the Hide. He does a great job. For timing with out a washer all I had to do was put the brake on very hand tight. Mark the top center, send back, and he will shave off so you can mount with perfect timing. I put one of his on my Ar 10 also. I didnt care if I had a washer on that one of course so it worked out fine. He has several types. You really need to look at his testing. This guy is WAY into testing. He has a very cool aluminum sled and tests all brands and makes of brakes.He turned down the O.D. of one of his brakes to my specifications then cerakoted. Considering what goes into it, he is fast.

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Originally Posted by Mozella

No kidding. As far as I'm concerned, muzzle brakes are the Devil's work. If you're not man enough to handle your weapon without a brake, go ahead and put one on. But please don't come to the range and set up within 3 benches either side of where I shoot, thank you very much.

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LOL...it has nothing to do with being man enough its about spotting your own hits in competitions. in most long range matches you have spotters but a lot of times you get stuck with inexperienced spotter that gives bad calls so its important to be able to see your impacts so that you can make the right corrections.
i ask the guys that i get squadded with to NOT make calls just what target is next.

I just bought a jp recoil eliminator 5/8 x24 threads irt wont thread on my savage 5/ x24 threaded barrel any idea why?

There have been a few cases of Savages with miss threaded muzzled. Also could be the brakes threads.

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Ross Shuler http://www.muzzlebrakesandmore.com/

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Originally Posted by LoneWolf

^^^ LongRange you know we talk a lot, but I hate that brake more than any other lol! That is the worst brake to shoot next too and pretty much the only one I've ever complained about on 308 base cartridge rifles. Magnums are however, their own beasts.

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+1! I despise brakes!

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Originally Posted by king of guns

I just bought a jp recoil eliminator 5/8 x24 threads irt wont thread on my savage 5/ x24 threaded barrel any idea why?

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Also keep in mind JP Enterprises makes a 5/8-28 (JPRE-428) and a 5/8-24 (JPRE-424) threaded Recoil Eliminator. It may be that you received the wrong one.

I've played with a lot of different brakes and my current favorites are the Terminator series out of New Zealand. I run a T4 on my 338/408 Improved rifle and a T5 on my 338/408 Improved pistol. This is an 18# gun shooting a 300gr bullet over 143gr of H50 BMG. The gun moves straight back about 2".

https://youtu.be/pQ6PEAWF5Zk?t=40s

Nothing I've played with is even close to be as effective as these brakes.

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Originally Posted by yorketransport

I've played with a lot of different brakes and my current favorites are the Terminator series out of New Zealand. I run a T4 on my 338/408 Improved rifle and a T5 on my 338/408 Improved pistol. This is an 18# gun shooting a 300gr bullet over 143gr of H50 BMG. The gun moves straight back about 2".

https://youtu.be/pQ6PEAWF5Zk?t=40s

Nothing I've played with is even close to be as effective as these brakes.

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That brake looks alot like the V port brakes from Straight Shot Gunsmithing.

if youre thinking about getting the tank and hae a savage barrel threaded 5/8 x24