Making an Action Wrench for Centerfeed Savages?

I was wondering if anybody has made an action wrench for the new style savages. Ive heard the typical wheeler wrenches dont properly fit on the new style. I dont have an action wrench at all, and dont want to spend 60$ unless I have to. Jim Briggs has one that is specifically made for the new style actions.

However, I was thinking a couple blocks of hardwood with a 1 inch hole between them (Maybe bigger? I haven't checked exact barrel dimensions) and Baker Rosin to add grip would get it off. Although to keep the blocks wide and in good contact, I was going to take my new recoil lug and trace it out on one of the blocks. I could inlet this part of the block to provide a mechanical means of holding the receiver via the lug on top of the friction. Seems like thats what they basically are anyway. I have plenty of metal (I live on a farm, metal everywhere) and vices to do whatever I need to make the clamping fixture. Main thing is that I dont twist the action like Jim was talking about if Im not careful.

Sorry I dont have a picture, I tried to upload one but SS seems to only use URL images. Most of the forums I am on you can actually upload pictures. Maybe I dont know how to use it?

I built one from an aluminum block, drilled to 1.250 and then sanded with a flap disk until it was a tight fit. It works on both stagger feed and centerfeed since the actions are the same diameter. It will also work on Remington 700's. It's not recessed for the recoil lug so it works on either AccuStock or non-AccuStock lugs. It clamps the action with 2 1/2" thru-bolts and also bolts to the front action screw and I've used it on about 25 rifles with no issues.

Both my ring and rear entry wrenches are left overs from my Rem switch barrel days. I've pulled-swapped a few(:p) with them, staggered and center feed.

Bill

I made two like Wheelers out of 1024 stock. Machined a large recoil relief. Before tightening it on the action i allow the recoil lug to rest against the side it will be rotated against. I use it on stagger feed and center feed actions. Both are right at 1.35".

Both my ring and rear entry wrenches are left overs from my Rem switch barrel days.

I've pulled-swapped a few(:p) with them, staggered and center feed actions

Bill

Not to hijack thread but I have the action wrench sold by northland shooters. It worked on my older stagger feed rifle but you all are saying it won't work on a centerfeed top bolt release? Why not?

Northland website states it works with all model savage 10/110s

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bigeclipse

Not to hijack thread but I have the action wrench sold by northland shooters. It worked on my older stagger feed rifle but you all are saying it won't work on a centerfeed top bolt release? Why not?

Northland website states it works with all model savage 10/110s

---

Yes. Before center feeds, I assume they were designed differently. I talked to Briggs over the phone and he said the old style action wrenches did not work on the new savages. I do not know if he meant his old style wrenches would be the same way, but I know for a fact he said Wheeler would not work. Im guessing that they are too wide and put the action at risk of twisting if it grips the ejection and mag ports.

Thanks for the replies.
However, will my idea of hardwood work? Wheeler uses hardwood blocks in one of their wrenches I think. I dont have access to a mill or decent lathe, so Im limited for alot of builds.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lrshooting

Yes. Before center feeds, I assume they were designed differently. I talked to Briggs over the phone and he said the old style action wrenches did not work on the new savages. I do not know if he meant his old style wrenches would be the same way, but I know for a fact he said Wheeler would not work. Im guessing that they are too wide and put the action at risk of twisting if it grips the ejection and mag ports.

---

I bought this wrench from him about 5 months ago...is it considered new style?

I have an older wheeler wrench and it fits every receiver including a new centerfeed. What is the difference you guys are eluding to?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jonbearman

I have an older wheeler wrench and it fits every receiver including a new centerfeed. What is the difference you guys are eluding to?

---

Same thing I'm trying to find out haha except I bought the wrench from NSS supply 5 months ago and I'm about to do a barrel swap on a centerfeed action. Only used it on a staggerfeed so far. I thought they would be the same...

You will not see a difference in any barrel swapping tool with regards to Stagger Feed and Center Feed. The differences in the action is on the bottom where the magazine abuts and the rear top of the action where one may be flat and the other will be round.

For the OP you are better off when using wood to clamp on the barrel in my opinion. Whatever you do, never insert something into the slot consisting of the magazine port and the ejection port to remove a barrel. You can easily twist and distort the action beyond your ability to repair. Never clamp on the rear of the action. Only on the front ring.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

You will not see a difference in any barrel swapping tool with regards to Stagger Feed and Center Feed. The differences in the action is on the bottom where the magazine abuts and the rear top of the action where one may be flat and the other will be round.

For the OP you are better off when using wood to clamp on the barrel in my opinion. Whatever you do, never insert something into the slot consisting of the magazine port and the ejection port to remove a barrel. You can easily twist and distort the action beyond your ability to repair. Never clamp on the rear of the action. Only on the front ring.

---

So then the NSS action wrench is good to go for either...

I assume so, I was just saying Jim briggs said wheeler wouldnt work. His NSS wrenches might tho. I don't have one so I cant say, and I didn't think yo ask him either about his older ones

I use the Wheeler action wrench on stagger feed and center feed with no issues at all. It has a recess for the recoil lug,,I only screw the bolts down finger tight to utilize the recoil lugfor grip and leverage so there is no chance off twisting the action.How ever you will probably need the new style barrel nut wrench if th nut is smooth.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DanSavage

I use the Wheeler action wrench on stagger feed and center feed with no issues at all. It has a recess for the recoil lug,,I only screw the bolts down finger tight to utilize the recoil lugfor grip and leverage so there is no chance off twisting the action.How ever you will probably need the new style barrel nut wrench if th nut is smooth.

---

Ha, noooo. Thats what a pipe wrench is for ;) I have a new nut and lug coming from NSS so Ill take off the old one unconventionally and if its still working, Ill use it as a thread protector. I understand they "look" nicer for some, but I think I like the grooved nut look better, and the mechanical principles to tighten are much more sound. I dont think I have ever seen a nut that is smooth in higher torque applications (for a gun) and still be practical. I say for a gun because I can torque quite a few things up past 200 pounds such as some of the real large bolts I get to have fun with on equipment.

I wonder if Jim is talking about the scew position change on the short actions? That's the only real thing that changed on the centerfeeds that might affect the action wrench.

I wouldn't know, I only use long actions.

I was a bit hesitant to reply, being that I have no idea how the concept of action wrench and magazine type are related. Now that I've read this thread, I see that some share my bewilderment.

I made a barrel wrench from a hardwood 2x4 which was free at Lowes (used to secure bundles of lumber), and it cost me about $7.50 (the price of the grade 8 fasteners).

Here's a link to the thread. I took a few pictures, so you should be able to replicate this fairly easily. Good luck.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SparkyLB

I was a bit hesitant to reply, being that I have no idea how the concept of action wrench and magazine type are related. Now that I've read this thread, I see that some share my bewilderment.

I made a barrel wrench from a hardwood 2x4 which was free at Lowes (used to secure bundles of lumber), and it cost me about $7.50 (the price of the grade 8 fasteners).

Here's a link to the thread. I took a few pictures, so you should be able to replicate this fairly easily. Good luck.

---

Nice setup man. Only issue I could see is your action wrench fits on the barrel rather than the reciever and issues of keeping the barrel from turning in the reciever while tightening. I assume it works for you, which is all that really matters. As far as action wrench vs magazine type: I do not know why it makes a difference. I am guessing its like gear grinder said and its more to do with screw spacing or something, but people just say magazine type because its one of the larger changes in features. I really dont care as long as I can get it done effectively and by the end of this project, have a gun that shoots under .5 MOA. Its asking alot maybe, but I have a:
1:Shilen match grade barrel
2:Better quality components (Lug, nut, stock, etc),
3:Will be doing a basic trigger job (polishing, squaring, etc...Ive done it on many guns with great success),
4: PTG DBM (maybe not a accuracy improvement, but itll give a good base for the action screws and replace that cheap flimsy plastic trigger gaurd),
5: Pillar bed w/ full action bed,
6:Boyd stock with extensive modification to make it a more quality piece,
7: Vortex 4-16x50 ffp scope (compared to what I normally use, its a huge improvement (Ive never spent over 130$ on a scope, this one MSRPs at 1000. I got it 850 new from my dealer)
8:TPS steel base
9:Burris steel Zees
10: I handload, test, and eventually ladder test my loads for best grouping. Usually a high and low charge of the powder spectrum I am using will be accurate. Its like a parabola with a "accuracy" node that cuts straight through it resulting in 2 seperate good powder charges...
11:And a couple other small improvements.
Basically, im too cheap to buy a 60 dollar wrench, but i am sparing no expense in components compared to my normal spending. The base gun itself was the most expensive gun ive bought and it was only a m11 trophy hunter xp. Steppin up in the world!! :p

Wait...did i just hijack my thread?

As a machinist I just milled a piece of flat stock to fit in the bolt channel. Clamp the stock in a vise and go. Its worked so far. Destroyed a wheeler wrench on one of mongo's nuts ended up splitting the nut with a die grinder. Never twisted the receiver even though the wrench was toast.

]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps1a356175.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by limige

As a machinist I just milled a piece of flat stock to fit in the bolt channel. Clamp the stock in a vise and go. Its worked so far. Destroyed a wheeler wrench on one of mongo's nuts ended up splitting the nut with a die grinder. Never twisted the receiver even though the wrench was toast.

---

Interesting...wouldn't you still have issues with twisting the reciever if that bar wasn't 100% unflexed though? I dont know what type of steel that is, but I assume its hardened

I made one like that too. Works great.

Nope not hardened. Steel flexes and rebounds. It was made from a tool steel not cheap cold roll. Can't say it won't ever twist one just saying it works for me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by limige

Nope not hardened. Steel flexes and rebounds. It was made from a tool steel not cheap cold roll. Can't say it won't ever twist one just saying it works for me.

---

Huh. If it works, it works. Its a good idea regardless. Only change I think I might ever make it to lathe down the stock to round except for the front so that It only turned on that part of the reciever. But honestly, pay no attention to me. Ive never even had a barrel off. I need to get that done this weekend if that barrel shows up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lrshooting

Huh. If it works, it works. Its a good idea regardless. Only change I think I might ever make it to lathe down the stock to round except for the front so that It only turned on that part of the reciever.

---

This is my opinion also.

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I've seen some people just take an old bolt head and weld it to some round stock. Then weld the round stock to something they can grab in a vise

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lrshooting

Only change I think I might ever make it to lathe down the stock to round except for the front so that It only turned on that part of the reciever.

---

Typically that's how they were made, they only engaged the lug races they're length in the receiver ring.

http://i34.tinypic.com/21omvia.jpg

If you look you can see the back of lug is just outside the ring, the forward portion is touching or almost touching the barrel tenon. I only use those tools for swaps after the factory Igore tightened barrel(s) are pulled. For those I use a different setup-tools, no barrel vise either way.

Bill

Bill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BillPa

Typically that's how they were made, they only engaged the lug races they're length in the receiver ring.



If you look you can see the back of lug is just outside the ring, the forward portion is touching or almost touching the barrel tenon. I only use those tools for swaps after the factory Igore tightened barrel(s) are pulled. For those I use a different setup-tools, no barrel vise either way.

Bill

Bill

---

I see. That doesn't actually look that hard to make, but I just think for now a vice might do me more good economically. I have a lot of metal laying around, but not necessarily the right size, shape, hardness, or tooling to make the part. Welders, grinders, torches, chopsaws, and drill presses, but not a mill that I have had to talk myself out of due to the financial stress from being a college student many times. Everything else is just farm stuff and is justified by the frequent use they see.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by lrshooting

That doesn't actually look that hard to make

---

You're right. If I can make one its a pretty good bet most anyone can! :p but you don't have to fiddle around, Davidson and Hart has them make, 'bout 60 bucks.

Bill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BillPa

You're right. If I can make one its a pretty good bet most anyone can! :p but you don't have to fiddle around, Davidson and Hart has them make, 'bout 60 bucks.

Bill

---

Except I dont have a mill...maybe you didnt either? I might try doing it with some round bar and keystock. New idea! I actually just thought of that while I was typing is the bad part. Anyways, maybe a hard round steel shaft and find a key that would fit well. I can do quite a bit of metal removing with a grinder so a small amount of keystock would not be that hard to remove. I have alot of it laying around from .2-.75 I think. I dont know, just guessing. Might make it alot easier than trying to keep that action from turning with friction.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DanSavage

I use the Wheeler action wrench on stagger feed and center feed with no issues at all. It has a recess for the recoil lug,,I only screw the bolts down finger tight to utilize the recoil lugfor grip and leverage so there is no chance off twisting the action.How ever you will probably need the new style barrel nut wrench if th nut is smooth.

---

+1, I have a Wheeler wrench and never had a problem with either receiver.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps60b17951.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps60867b80.jpg

sizes on mine for reference

It's pretty simple to modify the Wheeler action wrench to work perfect with the newer recoil lugs. I just used a round file and filed a groove in the action wrench where the recoil lug detent fits into the action. It works perfectly!

http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...edmoor/018.jpg

http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...edmoor/015.jpg