Savage 11 upgrade to 14

Hello all

I picked out a caliber for my first center fire rifle, a 7mm-08. Originally I was in a 223/243 mindset but decided a 6.5 or 7 could be my "only rifle ever" and covers everything from introducing newbies after a 22 with relatively lower recoil than other centerfires, and everything I will ever hunt being an East coaster. I like the 7mm over the 6.5 swede now due to similar ballistics but shorter action.

Along with the caliber selection and the thought that this might be my "only rifle" that will be inherited someday I really like the model 14 American Classic . However I will be able to purchase an 11 Trophy Hunter XP combo much sooner and have it set up with scope right out of the box!

Besides someday adding a better scope/rings/bases, and a walnut stock (I understand Numrich sells them) is there anything else I would have missed?

Is the barrel finished the same and the same inside and out? The receiver? The magazine? How about the bolt handle? Is there ANYTHING I may have wished I had gotten from the get-go?

Thank you!

Looks like the trophy hunter is a black vs blued.

Trophy hunter will have plastic bottom metal and axis style mags.

Axis-style mags. No, you don't want that!

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Originally Posted by mikgarus

Axis-style mags. No, you don't want that!

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Exactly. If it weren't for the dang Axis style mag, I'd say the TH is a good package.

Scope is decent for hunting within 250-300 yards. ( I would not put any faith in any BDC reticle without a lot of testing/verifying of the elevation). I'd upgrade the mounts and rings, though.

Of course, a lot of guys really like the Axis rifles. But, hey, if I could tolerate their mags, I'd just buy an Axis. They shoot well. As far as I am concerned, putting those mags on a 10/110 is blasphemy. It's like putting plastic tires on a Corvette.

Do the other Savage 11s have a different bottom metal and magazines than the Trophy Hunter package?

Is there any way to build a Savage 14 over a couple of years by starting with another model that has the same barreled action minus the nice stock?

Best way to do that, I believe, is to get a used 10 or 110 in plastic or cheap wood. I've done a bunch of them this past year. Lot of fun. You can get something for about $300 and go from there. I'd say start here with a $15 / year paid membership so you can access the classifieds. There are great deals all the time. IT also gives you access to great tech articles on the different sized actions, what fits, the triggers, etc. Consider it a mag subscription to the best Savage resource available.

Here's my latest:

http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...oxx-build-pics

No way to do it with a new rifle? Thank you for the input so far!

Best way is to save your pennies and buy an American Classic. By the time you piece one together, it will cost twice as much.

Numrich has Classic American Walnut stocks for $50-120.
Used Savages go for $300-350 and have better bolt release
Aftermarket triggers: $90-130

Project total (estimate): $540
New American Classic from discount online retailer $700

I have seen American CLassics on the rack at local gun shops that look incredible, and others I would not want to own.
If you know what you're looking for, and like what you find, and enjoy a project, these days, I don't see how new is better.
Furthermore, Savage does not make an American Classic in .260. I have all the parts and barrels to build 2 of them like the one shown above. It can be done. and it's fun. :)

Look around, see what's available.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mikgarus

Axis-style mags. No, you don't want that!

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I am still not quite understanding this. Do current production 110s have a different detachable box mag than a current production 114?

The Trophy Hunter XP (maybe all the package series) has Axis style mags.

The higher-end models have metal DBM's.

I guess I have no idea what an Axis Style magazine is as I have never seen one and google isn't helping me. Is it the same detachable box but it it is plastic instead of metal and I can buy metal ones at Brownells? Or are they different designs

They are designed differently. There is a plastic clip that engages the port differently. In my experience it is not as smooth or reliable because it does not engage or seat well. I have to force it into place and it can be wedged in a twisted and angled position, therefore it does not feed properly. It lacks a good "snap-in" feel and does not release well. The original 10/110 metal versions slide nicely and have the definite "snap-in" feel and release by a spring button. The metal ones require a metal frame that surrounds the well and looks and feels better. Also, a wood stock pretty much requires the metal version, so if you start with the axis mag and the synthetic stock, you will need the metal mag and it's frame when upgrading to wood or other aftermarket stocks. That adds about $150 to your cost.

That's why Sharpshooter is saying that you might be better off buying the American Classic from the get-go if you want a wood stock with detachable magazine. If, on the other hand, you don't want to pay the cost for it, you can get a "blind mag" version, which is an internal, top-feeding mag that is not detachable, and then upgrade to a blind mag wood stock later. Those stocks can be pretty nice and run about $100.

I prefer blind mag over Axis DBM.

Until you actually handle them and use them, I doubt you can get a real good idea of how they differ and how well they serve your purposes. Axis models shoot well, there's no doubt about it. I don't think they are heirloom-quality. The American Classic could very well be.

There are good, reliable, used, blind-mag synthetic stocked 10/110's for $300. Over time you can upgrade the triggers for $100, stock for $100. If the accuracy falls off with heavy use, you can replace it for $200. Or change caliber/cartridge choice (that's true with all Savages). The difference here is, if you start used, and want something different, there's still money available to get it.

Finally, if you start used, and decide to sell it, you can usually get your money back, unless you've paid for a lot of upgrades.

It sounds like I might investigate used and like you said I can replace the barrel and stock. I doubt the action itself will ever wear out...

Is there any other differences in the Savage actions I need to look for when looking at used items, other than a blind mag and everything on it being metal instead of plastic? (Except the stock)

All actions for 10's and 110's are of same quality. 10' are short and require short action cartridges. Long action will accept either. For simplicity avoid magnums. Some are stagger feed ( older) and center feed. Neither is better, but require the specific stock.

Also I recommend top bolt release.

The American Classic has hi-luste bluing, something not found on the rest.

Good point. Moreover, it's hard to place a value on good factory bluing. Personally, I prefer Matte bluing over gloss or high luster. Regardless, that is certainly something to consider. A $300 used rifle will most certainly show bluing wear. My projects are Duracoated. Not even close to the same durability or quality, but I still like doing it.

Another point for the Trophy Hunter, in my book, is the matte blued metal. I like it a lot. Still doesn't make up for their cheap DBM's though. :)

Finally, if the American Classics were ridiculously over priced, and the TH's weren't any good, no one would buy them. I've bought two TH's! :)

If you can live without the high luster blueing you can always decorate the stock any way you want with hardware store and scrap materials.
Here is a model 11 GL that I decided to do up in a classic style.
I chose golden oak stain for the base color.The white line spacers at the grip cap and recoil pad are made from white plastic sheet rock mud buckets cut to shape filed and sanded then sandwiched in. The ebony fore end is fake and done with ebony stain and the white line on the fore end is automotive pinstripe. The whole thing is sealed with clear Minwax spray poly. Not exactly highly figured imported walnut but for a few bucks in materials I had a lot of fun giving her that "classic" look. :thumb:
http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...psd016dba6.jpg

I bought the trophy hunter and dropped it into a boyds stock. While the mag isn't ideal it serves the purpose being a hunting rifle I wanted easy load and unload. I have not had a feed issue.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/14/huja8ehu.jpg

Ps I despise the bottom bolt release. Why in the world did they change

And yes mine is a model 16 not 11.

Big, that is awesome. I like.

Limige, yours, too.

The bottom bolt release has to be the stupidest thing I've ever come across. Sharpshooter told me they wanted to improve the lines and look of the rifle. To do so they changed a bunch of parts (10?) and ended up with a PITA button that interferes with good aftermarket triggers like the Rifle Basix Sav-2 and SSS Comp trigger. I HATE it! Even if you don't want to change the triggers, just trying to push the button and release the dang bolt or remove/replace the action screw is a PITA. I struggle with it all the time. I doubt the design team that came up with that bottom bolt release ever shoot or work on their Savages!

X2 on the bottom release being a PITA. I bought the bottom bolt release TH, then replaced the rings and mounts and picked up a wood take-off from someone here. I like the setup for a hunting rifle the Nikon is adequate for hunting, Savage screwed up the DBM and the bolt release. If I had it to do over I would not have bought a new rifle I would have bought an old 110 top release. My mag does seem to have worked itself into a groove of sorts, but I had problems with the bolt not engaging round to feed for a little while.

As a hobby, I have built several Savage rifles with American Classic stocks from Numrich over the last 6 years. But If you want a luster blue or SS finish and all metal bottom parts and save a lot of time and hassle, I would just buy the American Classic in 7mm08 ($705 Luster Blue, or $671.00 Stainless; Buds Gun Shop) as Sharpshooter advised. You may be able to find a good used one for less than the cost to build one from parts.

If you want to take the time and hassle or enjoy the DIY aspect, then my advice is to start with a Savage 11 Trophy Hunter XP package rifle in 7mm08 ($473; Buds Gun Shop). This rifle has a black matte finish, Accutrigger, Nikon BCD package scope (Prostaff) and composite/plastic trigger guard and DBM bottom cap. Purchase a SA (4.40"), CF, DBM Savage 14 AC stock from Numrich Gun Parts ($100 to $130). If you like the composite/plastic DBM and trigger guard, then you will need to order a composite DBM frame assembly-surround ($25.00) from Savage Arms Parts in order to get the plastic bottom DBM (same DBM used in Axis models) to work in a Savage SA, CF wood stock with DBM inletting. If you want metal bottom parts, then you will need to order a metal DBM frame assembly and bottom cap ($110) and trigger guard ($26) from Savage Arms Parts. Sell the cheap Nikon BCD paclage scope as a new take-off on Ebay ($75-$90). So the cost to build a Savage 14 AC rifle with matte black finish instead of a luster blued finish and metal bottom parts from scratch is approximately $520- $610 depending on what you net from selling the Nikon package scope.

Most of the Savage 14 AC stocks have an oil-based finish. I lightly sand with 0000 steel wool to dull the finish and apply a few coats of Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish with a cotton rag to refurbish, or repair light scratches after hunting season. This brings out the true beauty of the walnut wood. I don't use Tru-Oil on the checkering to avoid filling. I use thin danish tung oil to darken and seal the wood. Be careful and don't sand through the factory stock finish to bare wood. You won't be able to touch up the spot to match the factory finish.