Longbow experience???

Now that I'm getting the bang bangs fitted up I can move on to this....

Wasn't sure if this really belonged in the "Hunting" section or the "Help me Decide" section, so here goes.

I've recently bought a RudderBows Archery hickory longbow. Rated 40# @ 28", 45# @ 30", with 2-3# stack after 1/2" more draw. My draw is around 31". I want to kill things with this, mostly whitetail, but definitely wanna kill things!
I've never shot it, no arrows yet. Only played around with it trying to work up my shoulder strength to hold it at draw. If you didn't know already, longbows and recurves are NOTHING like compounds! 45# feels like 60#+.

So, does anyone have experience with them? Is it ok to use a D loop and trigger release? I don't want the string to roll. I want to quiet the bow, I want it to shoot straight and fast.

ANY input/info will help!

Yea, I build them. Sure, you could use any trigger release you like. Look into a thumb ring (mongolian) and using it properly. Make a thumb ring from horn, bone, even doggie rawhide strips. Paleo planet, look for a guy named Fiddler, he explains making and use, has tutorials elsewhere.

If your draw is 31 you should have gotten a 31" draw. If it is marked 30" it wasn't tested for 31.

I don't shoot wheel bows, carbon, alum and use real blackpowder. If you get into longbows, self bows you may want to remain "purist" 3 Rivers Archery has wood arrows. I make arrows from river cane. I also do atlatls, bet you would get a kick out of them too. Don't forget an armguard, arrows can and do shatter with pieces going thru your forearm.

Didn't get a 31" draw because Rudder didn't make them. Not that I didn't find any 31" draw bows, just didn't fit my budget is all. The only markings on the bow are: '40-45lb' with the brand name and logo
As far as remaining "purist", I'll be ok with using other arrows. I don't have the equipment to make arrows. What I've seen of them to buy, they're beyond expensive(compared to carbon/alum) and hard to keep straightened.
I'm fairly certain I should be able to go to the bow shop and at least get arrows made, a release, armguard, and maybe a feather rest. Rudder bows said all arrows have to have feather fletching too, which I'll stay purist in that regard.
Now I need a piece of nice leather of some kind of animal to make a grip.

They are good bows. You may be fine on 31". Exercise it. Draw short (like 25") 25 times and repeat. Draw more and work it up. Never leave a self bow strung unless your shooting it will take a set.

You should have the correct spine weight for your bow and that's hard to get out of their box store arrows so,, Yes, have a shop make your arrows, you will shoot so much better. People get discouraged using the wrong arrows, it matters just like reloading, twists, weight bullets.

If you're looking at similar quality alum or carbon compared to wood cost is not far off. Decent wood arrows (like port-cedar) don't need restraightening. I have shot alum in the past with target bows, they are good arrows. Very consistent. I've just gotten more purist in my old age shoot what you want, just shoot!:cool:

Oh yea, grip. I use strips I cut out of deer skin (tanned) There is a neat way to do a flexible arrow rest which is tucked into the wrap. However I do much shooting just off the hand, no rest. Wear a glove or get nasty fletching cuts on that hand though.

The fur from a deer foreleg is tubular and tough, makes a nice rest against the bow for arrows to ride against.

Here's a pic of a very simple bow made for a lady with the rest tucked.

http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...y/DSCN1699.jpg

I know I can still draw a little short and shoot an arrow my draw length, done it in the past with recurves years ago. Dad had a few of them.
But, this is my first longbow and it's still different from a recurve. Given that, there's no way I'd just go buy arrows on my own. The bow shop in town is very reputable, bought my beginner bow when I was younger from them, then my second at 14 but I've long grown out of it and got away from archery. This is my second wind so to speak.
That wrap looks GREAT! I like it!
The bow does have a rest notched out in the wood already, but I still think it would shoot better with something the arrow can ride on. Less friction=more speed, more speed=imminent death and penetration!
You've been a huge help!

Thanks, that was a very simple oak board bow built ala Sam Harper on "poor folk bows" ANYONE can build one of those with handtools. Sams pretty cool got lots of people making bows. Make a oak board bow less than $20. Not as cool as a selfbow from a stave but FUN! I had to try his method since appropro for simple quick "ladies and youth" bows however you can make any weight you like. A Pyramid style bow is very simple, little tillering as the pyramid is a natural tiller. Glad I could help. You're on the right track. That piece of tubular deer foreleg is awesome. It's just like a square inch or less stuck to the bow.

Here is Sam Harpers site. He shows how to make strings, jigs, spine testers, all kinds of stuff. Face it, you're probably going to get hooked bad since you started young. I did too, bought a Browning 35# recurve for my 3rd bow at about 14.

website http://poorfolkbows.com/

oak bow. http://poorfolkbows.com/oak.htm

Here's one of Fiddlers tutorials on primitive ways for a thumb ring. he also makes them from diggie chews and somehwere a nice explaination how to properly use one. It's on the inside pad of your shooting thumb with string on the face (inside) fore finger and mid finger over your thumbnail.
http://www.primitiveways.com/making%...mb%20ring.html

The patience I mustered to refinish my gunstock was about all I had available. Let alone hand making a bow HAHA!
I'll leave that to the pros!
Any pointers on silencing the string? Well, since I've never shot it yet, I really don't know if it's loud or not. Would simply tying feathers on the string help? Those rubber fur balls really never seemed to do a lot for me. They worked, to a degree.

It's not hard but proper wood and tillering is important. Anyone who hasn't had bow-kabooms hasn't made enough of them!

I think natural fiber works better than rubber but I don't even bother. Maybe why I have had deer jump my arrow! If you have strips of fur, fiber or similar you can unstring and untwist the string a bit near the loop and insert the fibers. That will silence it. Remember the twist in the string is what sets your brace height, distance string to handle belly. Belly is the side near you, back is away from you. general brace height is a fist with thumb extended. They make all kinds of silencers for them you can buy but you probably have something. Brush out the dog and take a twist of fur. Cool thing is no NFA tax stamp :)

Many many moons ago I did this stuff along with compounds while shooting the ASA tournaments.......listen to what ShawneeB is saying he obviously knows of what he speaks. He has started you down an enjoyable path!

Highly rewarding to take game with something that you have made from the materials the Good Lord provides!!!

I make my own longbows but use a laminated reflex deflex design. Once I got started with traditional archery there is no going back to compounds.
Thanks,Wes

Well ShawneeB, as you saw in my refinish thread, I can work a gunstock. But a bow, that's probably out of my league! I'll stick with my handmade bought bow. I did my research and Rudder is an outstanding company, they know their stuff!
I'm pretty sure my brace height is a tad low, Manu recs around 6-7" and it's closer to the low side of 6".
As for silencers, the dog could use a brush out, she sheds like crazy and it's thick black/white hairs so it may work out greatly. Or, like I've wanted for years, I'll kill a couple yotes and wear their hides in a bloodlust induced craze and when I come down I"ll use their fur for silencing.
Yes, yes, I'm a strange one...

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Originally Posted by Apache

Many many moons ago I did this stuff along with compounds while shooting the ASA tournaments.......listen to what ShawneeB is saying he obviously knows of what he speaks. He has started you down an enjoyable path!

Highly rewarding to take game with something that you have made from the materials the Good Lord provides!!!

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Make your bow, make your stain and finish, twist your string, make your arrows, shoot a turkey for more fletching, eat it. Flake your own points you found from local flint. Eat your own kills, priceless :) Oh yea, process the sinew for wrapping fletching and points, make hafting resin from pine sap. :)

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Originally Posted by redlabel

I make my own longbows but use a laminated reflex deflex design. Once I got started with traditional archery there is no going back to compounds.
Thanks,Wes

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Are you using boo backed hickory, ipe or such? Lams? Inquiring minds gotta know ya know?

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Originally Posted by mazda3gun

Well ShawneeB, as you saw in my refinish thread, I can work a gunstock. But a bow, that's probably out of my league! I'll stick with my handmade bought bow. I did my research and Rudder is an outstanding company, they know their stuff!
I'm pretty sure my brace height is a tad low, Manu recs around 6-7" and it's closer to the low side of 6".
As for silencers, the dog could use a brush out, she sheds like crazy and it's thick black/white hairs so it may work out greatly. Or, like I've wanted for years, I'll kill a couple yotes and wear their hides in a bloodlust induced craze and when I come down I"ll use their fur for silencing.
Yes, yes, I'm a strange one...

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Shoot that bow awhile and you may want to try. I got all the stuff, come on down and make one if you ever get to wanting.

Now the coyotes, you can make a cool hat with the face on front, paws hanging. AND make a coyote or fox quiver :)

Yea the brace is fine at 6. To increase just twist the string some more like tightening a rubber band.

Probably a ignorant and silly question but.......

Would twisting the string, which increases the brace, also maybe allow for more draw length???

By the way, Rudder "says" that my bow is good up to a 32" draw, but the weight of it would be in the high-50 to 60lb range

That's great. I kinda being as they sell them as a production longbow they have tested them to a higher pull. There are lots of longer draw people out there. At 28" I can shoot a kids bow:p

Brace won't change the overall draw length. It may be quieter. Only takes a couple twists. It's one of those things you gotta check anytime one end of the string comes entirely off the bow for anyreason.

The right brace and the right spline on your arrow for your draw length and you shouldn't need anything to silence the string. I used to shoot a Black Widow and when everything was right it was whisper quiet, same with their recurve.

Well I twisted the string and got from 5 to 6.5 inches, didn't realize it was that low! Stuffed some pooch hair in it too and just plucking the string, it's a LOT quieter. Now for some arrows and a target, and a release too, I'll be ready for bow season this fall.

Feed sack stuffed with grocery plastic bags. I use 3 hay bales sometimes. In a field I have some round bales and use a orange marking paint for a bull. SMALL one, shoot small, hit small. I also use my atlatls on them, they are my mastodons.

Hay bales are hot commodity around here! Square bales go for about $5+ and round bales are around $15+, farmers ya know!
Maybe a foam block would be in order...
I'm ready for payday this week to get the ball rolling!

There are some real durable block targets out there. The black one is pretty good, forget the name.

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Originally Posted by ShawneeB

There are some real durable block targets out there. The black one is pretty good, forget the name.

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I think it's aptly deemed "The Block", ironically enough.

I think it is too :) Not much bucks either.