1000yd and 150 SMK (Alarm System)

I made this alarm system about 8 months back and have been up gradeing as time goes on to a smaller/portable package. I really wasnt interested in sharing this but I was compelled to due to "subjective' conversations about the 150 SMK,s ability to get out to distance. I got tired of my fellow shooting partners not being positive when calling shots out to 1K so I developed this hit alarm system as I call it. Now, theres no guessing...none what so ever, and I concluded that without a dought...the 150gr SMK along with some RL-15 behind it will in fact smack either targets at 1K, even with a 25-30 mph wind. just gotta adjust accordingly. My shooting buds are sending 168,s at it and hitting with about a 5 moa adj while Im at about 6...not a big deal.(wind dependant)
The large target is a 16"x24" and the smaller is a 8"x6". The ammo can house,s the car alarm control module,batteries,wiring with a toggle on/off switch at the top as to simple turn it on. The box is placed BEHIND the large plate as to not get hit. You can see one of the shock sensors temporaily placed on the ammo can.
The LED/Sirens/ and stand are placed about 50ft away from the plates.
I have 2 magnetic shock sensors that are placed behind either target. I usually place the smaller target about 12 ft away from the larger target. the wiring that reaches the smaller target use,s simple plug in wiring at the ammo can via wiring loom i made. I can have both targets activated If I so wish or just one.
If a rd hits either plate, the sirens start blarring and the LED,s (white and blue) start flashing which can be heard and seen out to 1K. the system is set to reset itself after 30 seconds.
The smaller plate,s a challenge to hit but Im proud to say, that My Savage model 10 mil spec, 1:11.25 twist with HS stock, 5R barrel has hit that smaller plate 3 hits in a row with simple 150gr SMK and RL-15 behind it. while holding about 5MOA for xwinds.
This system along with my Savage rifle has humbeld my shooting buds who (with all due respect) are Remy fans which by the way, havent been able to smack the smaller plate out to 1K...least not yet lololo
FYI.... The scope i use is a simple BSA 6x24x44 tactical which can only be purchased by Midway that I got on sale for 150 bucks.http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps5d81a997.jpg

Great idea... necessity is the mother of invention...

funny you should say that...lolol Thats one of my favorite sayings.

Love it!

Well played sir

Assuming 308? Interesting discussion on transonic stability and twist for 168: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363822

Cool idea.
Especially when it saves shoe leather.
Never underestimate the ingenuity of the American shooter....

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Originally Posted by thermaler

Assuming 308? Interesting discussion on transonic stability and twist for 168: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363822

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2 of my shooting partners use 168,s. one uses 168a-max and the other 168smk. ones uses tac and the other rl-15. theres speeds are floating at about 2700-ish..I know the one that uses rl-15 and 168smk is punching nice clean holes out to 1k with no key holes, but not sure about the a-max.
thruth be known, Ive never seen/had an issue with transonic issues here. maybe at lower elevation but not at the 4400ft that were at.
both my shooting partners that use the 168,s have been hitting the bigger plate withy success.

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Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla

Cool idea.
Especially when it saves shoe leather.
Never underestimate the ingenuity of the American shooter....

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exactly....thats alot of walking.
some say i went over board, some think its funny. one things for sure though. when the shooter hits my hit alarm system and all the bells and whistles go off, the expression on there face shows accomplishment. all that time spent reloading/ballistic calculation/practicing body to firearm stablitly etc.....has just paid off.

Im piecing together another one thats gonna be made of much stouter steel. Its gonna consist of a 24"x24" AR500 steel plate thats gonna be placed just a bit under 1700yds.
One of my close friends owns/shots and 50 cal Armalite and is pretty damm accurate with it out to that distance.
This alarm sysen wont have the sirens but wil have bigger/briter LED lites that are used on ambulance,s. The control module thta I use has different 12v outputs when activated that not only activate the LED,s but will lite a "C-Rocket sized motor" so when he hits the plate, its gonna launch the rocket as well.......hows that for funlolololol

Why not just use exploding targets?

If you like it i like it. I would like to shot that 50 bmg.

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Originally Posted by thermaler

Why not just use exploding targets?

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The 1000yd mark takes its toll on velocity of the projectile. In order to lite up exploding targets like the likes of Tannerite and such, you need the kenetic energy of a projectile thats pushing at least 2700. The projectiles have lost so much speed and energy at 1K that they barely put a dent on the 1/4" thick steel plate where as burning right thru it at 200yds.
Ive gone down the exploding target venture 15yrs ago and found out quickly that it gets pretty dam pricey to hear the thick/loud boom of a Tannerite going off...sure is awesome and fun but my pocket didnt think so.
Ive seen a gallon milk jug fill,d and capd, with water be hit by a 308 at 700yds. only to find that the jug did not infact explode and the projectile was inside of the milk jug intact.....wow

Didn't know that's what it took to set off the tannerite--but was also thinking maybe something that set off a colored smoke plume.

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Originally Posted by thermaler

Didn't know that's what it took to set off the tannerite--but was also thinking maybe something that set off a colored smoke plume.

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now thats a great idea!........

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Originally Posted by eddiesindian

now thats a great idea!........

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It happens occasionally with me--but not often. ; ) Stands to reason that dust plumes are easy to spot from far off-- a reactive target that set off colored smoke??

My idea--you invent it, we'll patent it and become millionaires, buy out the ammo manufacturers so we never run out of ammo again and retire to the Riviera and be waited on by hot foreign babes. You in?

bam....dun!

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Originally Posted by stangfish

If you like it i like it. I would like to shot that 50 bmg.

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Its always a pleasure watching him send that much democracy down range. He,s let me shot it several times and once you get used to the "slight" recoil, the things a beast.
Ill give him one thing.....he purchased tons of pull,d powder and projectiles/tooling way before he purchased his Armaltie 50

I went long distance this last sunday and was able to smack the large plate but it turned out to be a chore. the wind was so much calmer than what were used to here in southwest tx. and I found myself having to rethink my final choice on windage adjustment. Man, figuring out wind is like trying to figure out a woman.:mad:

That is pretty cool. What type of shock sensor do you use and where did you get the electronics to activate the horn/lights?

I built my own target camera system and love seeing this kind of stuff!

Joe

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Originally Posted by Joe L

That is pretty cool. What type of shock sensor do you use and where did you get the electronics to activate the horn/lights?

I built my own target camera system and love seeing this kind of stuff!

Joe

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The shock sensor came from the car alarm system itself. The one advantage I have is that Ive been a cert. Ford Tech for the past 35yrs, is those yrs, you have a tendency of "gathering" stuff..lololo.
The intire system is infact a Ford car alarm system. Those car alrams were used extensively thru the 90,s which came with wiring,control module,shock sensors,remote control start up etc... be as it may, the system is long gone because new models come stock with what we call PATS (passive anti theft system)...80% of vehicle,s come stock with factory alwarm systems.
The control module for the car alarm system activates everything. Keep in mind, some car alarm systems will activate sirens, open car doors, trunks,lights etc... so with that in mind, all the outputs of the module are more than ;likely ground oriented, meaning the components are already being fed the voltage and all the module has to do is supply ground.
The alarm system as a package is relatively cheap and inexpensive. Wiring is self explanitory but come with a manaul just in case you have to reset the system. the one thing I was batteling in the beginnig was a the portable DC power supply for the system.
Luckely, Im also an avid RC car fanatic, and I started experimenting with the NI-CAD 7.2V battery packs the starter boxes use to start the RC cars. I put 2--7.2V battery packs together and wired them in series to give me about a 16V system when fully charged. The increased voltage is still managable by the control module and it really makes those sirens loud as hell because the sirens are being fed voltage directly from the batteries and the module supplies the ground so the sirens are seeing full 16Vs (there loud), the LED,s can also handle the increased voltage with increased lumination. When you bit either plate, sometimes you cant hear the sirens because lets face it, you got your ear protection on, but if in dought, all you have to do is look to either left or right of the plates and look for the LED,s. you can see them with the necked eye at 1K, but if you looking thru your scope, you can really see them flashing.
When i first took the system out there, It was infact funny to hear a car alarm going off out in the middle of a desert valley

Thanks for the additional explanation. I'm a Ford guy myself, although I haven't raced much in the last couple of years since I got in to pistols and rifles and had two shoulder surgeries. My 99 Cobra 4.6L DOHC turbo car might even have an extra alarm system in it.

Joe

Ive lost the urge to build horsepower yrs ago. 35yrs of certified wrench turning has taken its toll on my desire to build. I still get my satisfaction from working and repairing todays technologically advanced vehicles ( to a point) but I get more thrills from developing different and accurate loads for all of my firearms
2 shoulder surg. is no laughen matter

Also, the tennerite is a one shot deal. so one hit and it's make another trip 1000yd. That would get old fast.

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Originally Posted by handirifle

Also, the tennerite is a one shot deal. so one hit and it's make another trip 1000yd. That would get old fast.

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besides the fact that the tannerite wont lite at that distance due to the fact of not having enuff kenetic energy from the projectiles loss of velocity at that distance.....yes.....it is a bummer having to either reset targets and such at that distance.
This system enables me to shot at distance all day if I so wish. the NI-Cad batteries running at 14-16V will last all day. The LED,s and sirens dont suck alot of amps from the batteries and the system resets itself after 30 sec. and shuts itself off untill its trip again.

I recently (finally) purchaced a Lincoln stick welder so i can start making different targets that can activated the hit alarm system.
I can acquire metal from the shop in no time flat, so now its just a matter of chop saw/config and welding different targets. wish I could afford AR-500 steel but I just cant swing it.

Fathers days gift to myself...........

Was a good day to send-em out to 1K. Wind was a steady 5-10 mph and blew in a constant direction. 100dg temp.. I held 5 MOA. 1st shot (miss) trajectroy was about 10" to the right, held one more MOA for a total of 5, next 3 shots were direct hits, almost dead center. 2 hits are about 1/4" from each other. The black paint chip,d off below the area where the 2 hits that sit almsot together
Once again... Im sold on my Savage ( FCP 5R Mil spec 11.25 twist 24")
sure it may sound like Im tooten my own horn just a bit but what the heck!...ITS FATHERS DAY!.......yeah baby

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps128c4a21.jpg

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Originally Posted by eddiesindian

The 1000yd mark takes its toll on velocity of the projectile. In order to lite up exploding targets like the likes of Tannerite and such, you need the kenetic energy of a projectile thats pushing at least 2700. The projectiles have lost so much speed and energy at 1K that they barely put a dent on the 1/4" thick steel plate where as burning right thru it at 200yds.
Ive gone down the exploding target venture 15yrs ago and found out quickly that it gets pretty dam pricey to hear the thick/loud boom of a Tannerite going off...sure is awesome and fun but my pocket didnt think so.
Ive seen a gallon milk jug fill,d and capd, with water be hit by a 308 at 700yds. only to find that the jug did not infact explode and the projectile was inside of the milk jug intact.....wow

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so armed with this information how far would you personaly reccomend using a 308 when long range hunting for deer?
how about a 7 mag?
do you shoot alone or are you using a buddy/spotter system?

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Originally Posted by yobuck

so armed with this information how far would you personaly reccomend using a 308 when long range hunting for deer?
how about a 7 mag?
do you shoot alone or are you using a buddy/spotter system?

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I shoot with a spotter 50% of the time. Makes it so I wont waist too many rds getting the wind dailed in. I really rely on the hit alarm system (pic at the beginning of this thread) to advise me of hits. Good body to rifle positioning along with the muzzle break and using a 150gr projectile really help me in keeping target aquaxition as to help me see hits/miss,s
As far as sending one out at that distance for hunting purposses, Id defently go 7m

Gezz.. I want another Savage so bad.....holy crap this is addictive................