And so the process of hack smithing begins....

Well, to start of with, I decide a while back to locate an inexpensive savage to work on.
Found a Model 11 in 243, that was well used, but not used-up. (hopefully). it was $250, and came with a low cost 3x9x40 bushnell, so ok got a scope for one of my .22rimfires.

made a good fitting action clamp from White oak, and got it all set up in a halfway decently large vise.

and an half hour later after more than enough cussing and tightening everything to hades and back. just could not get the NUT loose without the action slipping.

frankly I was not about to have to spend $$ on a harbor freight press (well not yet).........

Time to sacrifice the NUT. lol. and by golly, you see, no matter what you do, or your station in life...you simply must get some sort of milling machine. cause then by golly you WIN. Win over the NUT.

http://bryanspeed.smugmug.com/Other/...bnut_lol-M.jpg

PS I think this gun has seen a bit of Rain...or got fished from a pond at some time.

I have a used .22BR barrel coming for it. In the near future, my plan is to order a Stainless Shilen in 22-243Win.

Nice I need to get a mill I have wanted one for a while just need to stop spending money on firearms.

"Tim", you missed a step that has made the wood blocks work for me every time. Drill into the oak block, beside the recoil

lug, & install a 1/4" x 20 socket head cap screw against the recoil lug. This prevents the action from turning. Put your nut

wrench on, put a 1/2" drive, 18" long breaker bar on it, & a 3' long pipe on it. Start out by taking short, "bouncing" pulls on

the pipe. You don't want to upset your work bench! - this gives you the potiental for 300 or more ft. lbs. of torque! Of the last

3 "new barrel" removles I have done, this worked every time. If it doesn't work, apply a little heat with a propane tourch &

try again. If that doesn't work, cut the nut off with a Dremel Tool. Someday, I "may" foot the money for an action wrench, but

I doubt it, because these methods have always worked for me. "Never" try to hold the barrel on a new take down: the barrel is

a smaller diameter & it is tapered. Good Luck :) ... Jim

With the 22-243 it is a good thing you are doing it with a Savage. They shoot like a freaking laser but from what I hear, it burns out a throat in no time flat. You might want to go ahead and get a spare barrel while you are at it!

thanks FW conch. as usual my plan backfired a bit....seems the Nuts are not easily found to buy.

Try NSS here on the board. They have replacements

great ! called NSS and yes they can take care of me :) though the thought of turning and milling one was hmmmm.. mildly amusing :)

After desperatly trying to get a barrel off an older savage using the barrel blocks, rosin, powdered sugar and alll the other advice that didnt work I got desperate. I took a 2x4 cut to 4 inches long and fitted it into the magazine opening to fill the action. I then put the 2x4 that extended below the action in a vise with the bottom of the action resting on the vise. I then had at it with the nut wrench and a ten pound sledge hammer. After about 20 whacks I got the barrel nut loose. No warping of the action that I could detect and this rifle shoots great with its new .35 Whelen barrel. It was an older flat back 30-06 action. I did not have the same problem getting the nut off two more action though I had to dremel off one of them.

El Lobo

I dont care how much flack I get,but by taking a propane torch and heating the barrel nut and then whacking the nut wrench with a brass or steel hammer for a sharp shock,it is way easier.Usually takes 1 or 2 whacks and done.I dont use wood blocks as I bought a reciever wrench so as not to take a chance and ruin the reciever.

This won't help you now but next time stand the barrel up and let some Kroil soak into that nut over night. The stuff is like magic and the wd40's and pb blasters don't even come close. We use it to disassemble gas turbine fasteners with 30K + hours that have a firing temp of over 2400 degrees and NOTHING else comes close.
My last two barrel changes the nut was off in two whacks or less.
Regards
RSH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

"Tim", you missed a step that has made the wood blocks work for me every time. Drill into the oak block, beside the recoil

lug, & install a 1/4" x 20 socket head cap screw against the recoil lug. This prevents the action from turning.

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I can't picture this in my mind...do you mind posting a photo or drawing? Just trying to figure out which way the cap screw goes. Thanks.

Kroil. Yes I do need to get some :)
Well NSS fixed me up good.. wallets a lot lighter :)

"thomae", I wish I could post pictures, but I can't. I'll try to explain further. I use oak blocks, on the action, because it has the largest, consistent, diameter. I clamp the oak blocks into a bench vise with the recoil lug sitting flush on the oak. Righty Tighty, Lefty Lousey! Drill a hole in the oak block next to the recoil lug, on the side that prevents it from turning in the direction you are pulling the wrench. You can "tap" the hole for 1/4"x20, or size the hole so the cap screw "self taps". Run the 1/4"x 20 Socket Head Cap Screw all the way down to the wood block. The head will be slightly higher than the recoil lug. If the action moves when the pressure is applied, the recoil lug will come against the cap screw & the action can rotate no further. I have even heard of people doing this on an action wrench, just to insure nothing moves. This is not my idea, it was poasted by another member, way back. "A thousand words is worth a picture! :) ... Hope this helps ...... :) Jim

Probably torn 7 or 8 down and all I have ever used is two wood blocks around the barrel only. The key is to clamp something such as a piece of split heater hose between the blocks and barrel. Never had more than very slight problem gripping the barrel enough to knock the nut loose. I prefer this because I know I am never going to twist my action this way.

You guy's have too much time on your hands! I'm impatient and want instant results. I just bought an action wrench and don't really bother with the barrel blocks, cheater bars, or propane torches any more. It was the best $40 I ever spent!

Andrew

"york", I am glad you like your action wrench, but I have other things that need the $40 spent on and I "do" have more time than money ! :) ..... Jim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

"york", I am glad you like your action wrench, but I have other things that need the $40 spent on and I "do" have more time than money ! :) ..... Jim

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I'm jealous. There are days where I would pay any amount of money for a little more time. I'm sitting here on my phone right now waiting on one of my drivers to show up, while thinking about the fact that this is day 6 and hour number 73 for this week. And it's been a short week!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FW Conch

"thomae", I wish I could post pictures, but I can't. I'll try to explain further. ... Hope this helps ...... :) Jim

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Perfect explanation...I can now picture it in my (empty?) head. Thanks for taking the time to explain. Makes perfect sense to me.

Looks like something Frank and I will have to be doing tonight trying to get the stupid new smooth barrel nut's off.

Well..... seeing as how the new barrel Nut will be a precision made one...

ordered a Gre-tan Mandrel and Bushing set, and am currently almost done with the fairly simple task of making a action truing jig, short style aka Mike Bryant type.
So I can at least face off the action. Will see how I feel about facing the lugs..guess I need to try. first time operations are the scariest.
I can see getting a D4 back plate and making up a very strong and faster-setup jig in the future.

good idea on the rubber tubing insert for the vise, btw.

Ok, all items to do a basic build are here. Tonight my plan is to get the action in the jig and if Ican get it all adjusted very very well, will face the action.

Last night I made brass tips for the Jig Bolts and attached them.

I am not sure if I should attempt a lathe pass at the locking lugs, even if only needing just 1 thou or 2. Rather I think I should first try bluing the lugs and lapping with the bolt's lugs,and see where that gets me. (before putting on the Lathe).

Better to have a shootable rifle than a broken one... :)

last Friday I screwed the new-to-me barrel on and practiced setting with the go/no-go guages.

over the last weekend, I hunted with a buddy in a Varmint contest. we came in 3rd place points and $$, and I shot the Heavy Cat for extra payout :)

For those stubborn barrel nuts, I built myself a "Recoil Lug Wrench". I just slip this wrench over the lug, and with the barrel in my wood blocks in the vice I just spin the handle of the lug wrench against the work bench and then snug up the vice. Then I just give my Barrel Nut Wrench a couple of taps with a plastic faced hammer and the nut comes off every time. Pictured below is (from Left to Right) my Lug Wrench, a Factory Recoil Lug, and my NSS Barrel Nut Wrench.

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/IMG_1780.jpg

Holy smokes, it is a major pain to get an action runing true in a jig!!! please tell me expereince makes it easier...
I now know real Smiths don't charge enough..
well for better or worse, some before and after pics.
http://bryanspeed.smugmug.com/Other/...n_before-M.jpg

http://bryanspeed.smugmug.com/Other/...on_after-M.jpg

How much did you have to remove from the face? What method did you use to indicate the action? Did you make your own line-up rod?

Nevermind I read your post where you outined your tools and process. Thanks

Nice tool Boots. If I had seen yours I would not have done this and saved a few hours.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4fed114d.jpg

stangfish, that is one heck of a nice looking lug wrench. Looks like you wnet all out.

Hope you trued the face of the action to the threads and not the other way around........

He's doing everything the hard way....never treat a Savage like a Remington.

done.
new post for pic
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...699#post167699

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

He's doing everything the hard way....never treat a Savage like a Remington.

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Please explain, etc. :)

Do a search for truing and timing a Savage action and you should find tons of info on what's involved. It's been discussed a lot. At one time Fred put up an entire write up on it, but I think that was several server crashes ago and may have been lost. :p

I have not seen/read any info that treats a savage action any different than a Remington, etc.
the one big difference is you cant just go in there and clean up threads and then expect a pre-threaded barrel to be the fit desired.

Is that not correct ? I mean, would you not be taking a big chance on a loose thread fit ?

I do know that there is the method/tooling where a "all in one" reamer/facer/etc is used and available from PTG and Manson , I think.
And IIRC, is based on threading the tooling into the threads ?

I am all ears, and receptive to criticsim , advise. As a newbie, I do have to experience al the mistakes in the learning process. lol.

This has a link to the article but there are many threads on this same subject:

http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...ing-the-Action

Three words "floating bolt head". That's why you don't have to treat a savage like a Remington.