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I thought I'd read about it here in the past, did a search and came up with one old post, just gotta ask the question before I spend the money. I'd like to convert a Duramaxx to use with my left hand 110 FP, is it just as simple as cutting a new slot for the bolt handle on the left side, filling in the right side with bondo and painting it? No issues with the action and barrel fitting? This is a pre-accutrigger rifle btw.
Thanks in advance for your help.
sound to good to be true. LOL- it is that easy in words. make sure you get a good rough mechanical fit for the bondo to keep it in place.
Make sure that your screw spacing is correct for the stock you order!!!!Quote:
my left hand 110 FP.....This is a pre-accutrigger rifle btw.
switch hitting is an easy fix, but if the screws don't fit, you must, uh, quit.
<groan> ::) ::) ::)Quote:
Originally Posted by jethro
What about the slot for the sear/bolt release?
I has to be easier than the HS Precision I just did for my Remington.
sorry :PQuote:
Originally Posted by dfrosch
LOL, I'll double check the spacing, but mine was made before they started making a true short action. It's a .308 on long action with a short magazine and (sadly) a short cut out in the bottom of the action.Quote:
Originally Posted by jethro
Thanks all for your help.
It's a non-issue as left-hand guns still have the sear/bolt release on the right side the same as RH guns.Quote:
Originally Posted by geargrinder
Duh...don't know what I was thinking? ???
The Duramaxx arrived today, how do you guys recommend cutting the new bolt slot? Can I use a Dremel if I take it slow or should I use a file of some sort?
Also when filling the RH slot should I put a screw or rod in to help hold the bondo?
Thanks again y'all.
You can use a dremel, but if it gets away from you, you will be overcome with a body wide numb feeling, followed by cursing and extreme warmth to your face and hands. A few seconds later, your hands will get clammy, and your fingers will start to chill. You will curse again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Son of the Gael
You will start to evaluate how bad the damage is, and if it can be repaired. Bits and flashes of your life will intermingle with the vision of the damaged stock. You will begin to question all things, and the internal confusion will force you to put down all the tools, and retire to the La-Z-Boy and watch re-runs of M*A*S*H until your totally drained.
Use the file.
Small screw or rod won't hurt the bondo/epoxy process. Any framework that will give bondable surface would work. Just make sure its going to be entirely covered.
Wow... spoken like a dremel junkie King! LOL
If you only knew.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
The rule of thumb (not the thumb I chewed up with the router bit, but the other thumb) is that if anyone has to ask "Should I use the dremel", than just get out the file.
The Dremel smells fear.
;D ;D ;D
You are the KING! LOL
I'm all set to do a left hand conversion on my B&C Medalist right after work today.....dremel then file.
Let us know how it turns out. I just bought a second savage model 12vlp that is the center feed model. I have a choate varmint stock for my older model 12 that is a staggered feed model that is left handed. Of course that stock will not fit on my new savage center feed. The good news is that choate makes a varmint stock for the new center feed action, the bad news is that they don't make a left handed model for that action. My two choices are cut and hack on the new stock to convert it to left hand or to call choate and beg and plead for them to convert a new style varmint stock to ambidextrous by making an extra cut on the left side of a right hand model.Quote:
Originally Posted by minigun
Why am I bothering with a plastic stock you ask? Because I am very happy with the feel and performance of the one I already have. Its cheap and works great. Doesn't look so cool but I am way past worrying about that in my life.
Best to all,
Johnds
hey jethro! ever play with a Roto-Zip!!!
The "soft grip body for all day comfort" is only a come-on to grasp this electric piranha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pa Hog
My Dad, gave me an RZ10 to play with.
<flashback>
Nay, play! Methinks to tame!
Whined like New Orleans harlot, but I could tell it would tear me up, if it detected any doubt in me.
But the new tile wall waited, and my burden was to cut holes.
Summoning all my courage, I plunged the RZ10 into the wall shouting loudly and without fear, "From hell's heart, I stabbeth thee! For hate's sake, I spitteth my last breath at thee!"
<deep breath>
Went over pretty well.
I've yet to draw blood with it though, but for regular wall work, I always make sure I have some sheetrock scraps, drywall paste, and the dye lot of the paint readily available. You lose track of this one and you've got an "S" curve design that would make German highway engineers dehydrate from drooling.
There was a post on a forum somewhere about a gunsmith or a company that was doing converts to L/H on these stocks but for the life of me I can't remember it or who!
Jethro, that was some funny s@#$
Jethro,
How are you with your ciphers and them fancy adding machines????
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q60VS...eature=related
HEY, how's the stock conversions going?
Not with a Duramax, but with other synthetic stocks...
My gunsmith just uses a CNC five-axis lathe to cut the bolt slots.
.
Thanks for the help all.
<begins searching for file>
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I've now done a LH conversion on a Duramaxx and a Medalist. No real problem on either one. But I do have a couple of observations:
I used a Dremel and went slow, no problems. I transferred some basic measurements - more like critical points over from the other side.
First, the cuttings from both stock go everywhere, wear eye protection. It as much a comfort issue as a safety issue.
The Duramaxx made a little neater cut. I used the little cylinder with slots/flutes cut in as sharp surfaces. The Duramaxx cleaned up with a sanding disc.
The Medalist has fibers in it (glass, kevlar, whatever) it doesn't cut so neatly.
I just left the RH side. Heck it is an ugly ole Savage anyway. That way I didn't have to repaint anything ;)
I just finished converting a medalist. I cut two slots down each side of the bolt cutout with the round flat cutoff wheels, then made a cut down the center to the same depth. Then I used the smaller( 3/8 th's) in sanding drum to hog out the notch. it come out great with very clean sides. I did end up cutting it a little deep which was no problem I just used a little bit of the JB weld that I filled the other bolt notch with to bring it back to where I wanted it.
BTW I am still sitting on a converted long action Duramax that I got stuck with. I would make someone here a real good deal on it.
I just did my B&C with no problems at all. the best advice i can give is to put the power tools down. use a round wood rasp to make the slot and take your time. when you think you are close reassemble the gun and check to see if the bolt hits. slowly work the opening untill the bolt will close with out hitting then clean the slot up with 120 grit sand paper. If I would have put a memory card in my video recorder i would have had this put on you tube. for filling the slot on the other side remember to sand and make some groves for the bondo to be forced into.
When filling the original bolt notch, it works very well if you drill some small holes on both sides and the bottom and make a rebar type framework out of heavy paper clips cut into short pieces. that way it can never be knocked loose.
BTW JB weld works extremely well for this on a Medalist since it has almost the same density as the stock material. It sands well and takes a finish just like the rest of the stock. When I did mine I used masking tape to form a dam on the inside and was able to follow the original stock contour perfectly. The part of the plug required almost no sanding at all.
Rooster - do you still have this stock ?? If so, please hit me at skateroo56@yahoo.comQuote:
Originally Posted by Rooster 50
Jim,