Looking for a semi auto that doesn't look like the pistol grip ar. Maybe Ruger .223 carbine? They used to shoot 6" at 100yrds, any better now-days? The 512 CZ is a compact accurate .22wmr, hard shooter, need some more punch.
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Looking for a semi auto that doesn't look like the pistol grip ar. Maybe Ruger .223 carbine? They used to shoot 6" at 100yrds, any better now-days? The 512 CZ is a compact accurate .22wmr, hard shooter, need some more punch.
The newer Mini-14's from Ruger are better, my uncle has one in SS and synthetic and it does 2" @ 100yds with just the irons.
If you are ruling out AK's and AR's, then a agree the Ruger Mini-14 is probably a real good choice. Decent ergonomics. Reliable. Reasonably priced. Definitely not match grade accuracy, but you can shoot tin cans at 100yrds once you get comfortable behind it. They were scarce earlier this year, but we were able to get one on our order this week.
Remington style autos will give you punch. I think they are called model 7400 now??
IWI Tavor or Kel Tec RFB if you can find one.
I think Palmetto State still has VZ-2008s for $400. With five magazines and accoutrement, it's a good deal on a unique and interesting gun.
I'm intrigued by the Ares Defense SCR: http://www.americanrifleman.org/blog...-all-50-states
Can't go wrong with a Springfield M1A
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Originally Posted by psharon97
^^^^^+1
Awesome rifles.
I heard they were improved, good short truck gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by bootsmcguire
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Originally Posted by psharon97
Great gun! My son has one and it is great fun shooting and very accurate.
Also, what about the little Ruger 10/22? Great gun, if you can find ammo!
Shooting the new CZ 512 22wmr, have plenty of ammo to clean the grund hogs and mud turtles up. What a great little gun, looking for 10rnd mags, no luck. Accurate open sights, that's what got me started on the .223 simi auto bent. Gonna stick to the .223 as I load for it all ready. I looked at Springfield's site, didn't see it in .223.
Any particular reason for the aversion to the AR platform? They are very accurate, dependable and versatile with tons of aftermarket for everything from mild to wild. Since several states have passed more restrictive laws on modern sporting rifles, there have been some creative souls at work with new stock designs eliminating the "pistol grip" feature. Just my opinion but most of these designs look pretty ridiculous. The flat top ARs, though they do retain the pistol grip feature, in my opinion have graceful clean lines and embody a beautiful modern sporting rifle. Other than the tall profile of an AR, What's not to love? Though I'm not a big fan of kel tec for the most part the SU16 may fit your criteria.
I have 3 ARs and one Mini 14 Ranch Rifle that I picked up very recently. I like the Ranch Rifle and put a Trijicon Accupoint (red) 3-9X using the rail mount Ruger included (in case you don't like the heavy huge rings they also have to integrate in the receiver). I can see why going non AR can be exceptionally intriguing and fun.
Just don't like the looks of the AR's, they shoot well, have several++ available to play with, just sold a Kel Tec pistol. Always been a fan of the Ruger mini, my favorite uncle introdued them to me 50 years ago, his was a 44mag carbine with international stock...don't know which lucky nephew got that one.
Searched a "local" news/gossip web site (and local is a polite description). Several mini 14/30's for sale. Checked my favorite gun shop in a nearby town, they were only $180 more for a new rifle. Everybody here is stuck at $500.00 used.
Have to add state sales tax, but a better rifle with a factory warranty. And I hope the new rifles are more accurate than the oldies.
What's involved to re-barrel a Ruger mini?
I had a mini14 and it was a darn good rifle. Ex police issue so maybe the quality was a little better than some. Also had a new manufacture M1Carbine. Lots of fun to shoot and could hit paper at 100 yards. Sold them both to build an AR15 and never looked back.
good question. I too owned one but I oppted to sell it instead of a rebarrel. the barrel on mine was worn to say the least. IMO, the mini is better suited for a ranch hand to shoot open sight if needed. tack driver there not. Scope attachment is a real pain as well.
Been doing some reading and shoping, this may not be the best site to ask these questions, but it's the one I trust the member's input. I get to shoot a friends ar style rifles and found a difference in the recoil I'm guessing due to the stocks or gas venting? His full size remington hunting rifle shoots harder than the short carry carbine. They both are accurate 1-2" at 100yrds with 55gr factory loads.
Expect to go with .223 because I load for it to varmint and target shoot. Will never compete in matches other than from the farm bench out front, 100yrd-350yrds but like to see small groups.
Can go with the Ruger mini 14 and maybe have it accurized later (same total price), or get an ar style and buy or build it to shoot. Not sure if the mini 14 likes reloads as do the others. That's the only reason I might not use the mini-14.
If I understand, the upper on an ar is the barrel, gas lug and forearm, and the lower is the trigger and mag assembly? So if the barrel is say 8 twist good quality 18-20" and free floated, that's a good place to start? Second, triggers are very important but don't know why a two stage is used. I had the set trigger on my CZ and disabled it, didn't like it. Why not use a good trigger assembly instead? On a two stage, does the trigger have to be released back to cock it even in rapid fire?
My dad has Browning BARs in 300 win mag and 30-06 and both are very accurate. The BOSS system is pretty cool and actually works. That would be a good option if you're looking for a more traditional style rifle and don't care as much about magazine capacity.
Also, I'd love to have an M1A.... that's the real deal right there. A mini 14 might as well be the snaggle-toothed step cousin (in my humble opinion).
Sks lol
.223, .223...did I stutter
Well--I'm going to suggest something so far out you will laugh--but bear with me.
Now I know you want 223 but it seems to me like you like the carbine style but not wed to the idea of an AR. I just got a 16" Rossi M92 SS carbine in 44 mag--and it is by far the most fun and stylish weapon I have ever fired! I believe it is lighter than any semi-auto carbine out there--and it really tames the 44 mag cartridge for those of us who are willing to admit that after a while pounding your hands with a wheel gun hand cannon is not all that fun. I would argue that the the win model 92 lever gun IS the original AR : ) The traditional cowboy action type weapon--coupled with the challenge of shooting irons (the stock ones suck, but can be inexpensively replaced) opens a whole new world of shooting fun and challenges if you are getting jaded with the tacticool scene. And within 100 yards--with the right cartridge and shooter--can probably drop most any game on the planet.
2 stages are an acquired taste kind of thing but also have a certain safety aspect to them. I've built and modified AR's with both 2 and single stage triggers. My basic reason reason for using 2 stage is that you do not always want a hair-trigger light pull single stage--like hunting in the woods--where an AD is possible with a light pull single stage. Because the pressure is built up gradually (with a good 2 stage) you arrive at the trigger break with a steady pressure that makes the second stage release much more controlled than you would have with a single stage with heavy pull. Kinda like the "let-off" on a compound bow. : )Quote:
Originally Posted by Appleseed
Thanks Thermaler, went looking yesterday. The guy that hunts the farm is a class III smith and builds these rifles. Was able to sample 6 or so barrel/uppers and lowers in the shop. I had never paid enough attention to these rifles.
If the single stage trigger is set to 3lbs, about like the accu-trigger, is it safer? Leaning to the dpms or rock river lowers, have a barrel maker that does good work just south of here. Go with the wylde? Loading for .223 but want to shoot the "cheap" surplus too.
Well--I'm no expert--here are just my opinions having built a few. I don't think it's strictly an apples to apples comparison when your talkin an AR type carbine compared to a bolt gun--though a mini-whatever is closer but still different in some respects. So comparing an accutrigger to a light pull AR whatever probably isn't a good one--because the two weapons are going to handle differently. Generally most "run of the mill" ARs come with a stock single stage trigger with a 6 lb or so pull. While a lot can be left to shooting technique--a lighter pull trigger will definitely help in tightening up your groups. For me, an AR--being a "sporting rifle" --is the kind of rifle I would more likely bring to bear quickly in a standing free-hand situation--one of the unequaled strengths of the AR type design. depending on the intended uses, it definitely helps to go to a lighter pull--I just find it a tad easier to do an AD with an AR set-up than a regular bolt-gun in shooting situations other than manicured bench or range shooting. AR triggers can easily be adjusted with a simple spring swap--though "modular" drop in trigger group designs offer similar screw adjustments as you might find in something like an accutrigger.
Whether or not a light pull on an AR is safe really depends on a bunch of variables--but I know myself well enough that if I went wandering around in the woods or back yard dynamically shooting with anything less than 3.5 (and even that is pretty light)--sooner or later I would goof up and launch one unintentionally (that's another way of saying been there, already done that). I think you'll be fine with something like a JP which you can dial up or down in the 3 to 5 lb range. I'd recommend 4 or 4.5 as a good starting point for an AR. If you truly anticipate the majority of your shooting coming from the bench for match results--then by all means go lighter than 3 lbs--just be aware of the limitations. That's my summary of the trigger pull for AR's --but I'm sure you'll have no problem finding others who will totally disagree ; )
The wylde flavor of 223 usually means a tighter chamber and closer tolerances for everything--unless you intend on reloading in pursuit of the holy grail load I think you'll find getting sub MOA is easily achievable with a good "conventional" 223/5.56. It's tough enough just figuring out the barrel length and twist rate you want. : ) But I have no experience with wylde--so take this opinion with a healthy dose of salt.
Thanks for the advise, still have some testing to do and will try a two stage trigger.
BTW, how's the lobster harvest this summer? Have always wanted to surf fish stripers there on the coast.
FYI I think the Geisseles are pretty much the industry standard on two stage triggers. An accutrigger vs two stage is a fair comparison to how it feels from the perspective of the shooter. You have some known "slack" to pull up, then you hit the first second stage and it breaks cleanly and crisply as you continue to pull. If you're shooting for accuracy and not volume, you pull the first stage right away then squeeeeeeeze through the second stage just like you would an accutrigger. If you pull up the first stage and decide not to shoot, you simply let go, again as you would on an accutrigger, and it is spring loaded back to its starting position (like an accutrigger). On an AR if you are firing closer range and/or at a higher rate of fire, you won't even notice the first stage since you can just pull right through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Appleseed
I prefer two-stage triggers on my ARs. I have the Geissele SSA on my AR carbine and the SSA-E on my heavy-barreled AR. The SSA-E isn't quite as light as I would like for the precision-purposed AR, but is still very nice. The Geissele match grade triggers are nicer yet, adjustable, and can be pretty much as light as you want to go.