Father tries to help, ends up gouging threads on reciver....

My father tried to swap out my barrel for me while I was gone. He didn't know he had to remove the front screws and gouged the a bit. I'm needing a tap 1 1/16 x20 to chase the threads on the receiver. I had found one online a week ago under $50 but can't seem to find it again. Don't want to put the $100 down for brownells and the gunsmiths around here told me "we don't work on savages" **** remmy smith! So if anyone can oblige I'd appreciate it. Or if someone used theirs and want's to recoup half their cost.

I will look to see if I have one at work.

Rex supply in Houston.

http://www.rex-supply.com/cgi/CGP2SR...ITEM=ER6010420

You don't want to use a cutting die to restore the boogered threads. What you want is a thread restoring die or file such as in this set : http://www.sears.com/craftsman-48-pc...p-00942275000P

I Happen to have this set, and using the correct 20 TPI file you can restore the threads on the damaged barrel.

If you don't want to purchase the whole set, you can just get the file for external SAE threads: Less than $12.00 plus shipping: http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-sae-ex...45000P?prdNo=2

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Originally Posted by missed

I will look to see if I have one at work.

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I'd appreciate it. I'll pay to rent it and shipping.

Don't need to fix the barrel, I've got a new 1" Bull going on it....problem is the old Barrel scarred up the threads. The kit you posted while it does have something to fix the old barrel, doesn't have the correct tap size

I have saved many a day since the mid 70's with those square thread files. A requirement for any handyman's toolbox.

If missed doesn't have one, buy the one at Rex then sell it to the next guy that needs it.

You don't need the tap, although it would be good, you use the thread restorer file to carefully restore the threads on the action(inside threads) and the old barrel (outside threads) so they are both good again.

If you don't want to spend the time with the file, buy a tap, but for the best repair job, make sure it is a thread restoring tap, which is designed to reshape the metal back into the correct form, as opposed to a regular or cutting tap, which will cut off anything except the thread, thus leaving the thread not fully formed (usually not as deep) in the areas where it was scarred up.

buy the tap from rex get a plug tap run it in by hand no tap wrench you will be good to go

I may be mistaken but for the sake of discussion, the tap will actually cut deeper than the OEM barrel threads need due to the thread profile. The UN threads that are cut on the barrel are UN2 I believe, with a larger radius at the root(and peaks) of the threads, that radius resists stress fracture propagation. Probably not a concern in this application with regards to the internal action threads. The question is does it change the class of thread by making it a class one rather than a class three. Much like the example thomae used for the external thread chase. Something to consider when using a tap of unknown dimensions.

I must ask why no tap wrench. If used properly...vertical it allows you to keep rotation torque on centerline more easily.

You are mistaken.....the thread size is 1.062" x 20 tpi, with the same pitch diameter. Only the barrels are undersize on the crest.

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

You are mistaken.....the thread size is 1.062" x 20 tpi, with the same pitch diameter. Only the barrels are undersize on the crest.

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That is what I thought but was not certain. I had been told by others they were using the UN2 inserts to cut threads on barrels. Could this explain why some barrels are not screwing into actions?

The receiver threads are thread milled, and have a tolerance that sometimes the is not adhered to. Depending on the machine, sometimes the threads are not 100% round. I usually always run a tap in to uniform the threads.

Good stuff. thanks. BTW how's business?

A tap is a poor way to do the job use a lathe.

I couldn't find that tap at work. We had thread pitches that were close but not that one.

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Originally Posted by missed

I couldn't find that tap at work. We had thread pitches that were close but not that one.

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I had a feeling. LOL We have a lot of taps as well but not that one. No problem, I think Captlink is offering to do the work for you.

IF not...did I mention this.

http://www.rex-supply.com/cgi/CGP2SR...ITEM=ER6010420

For cleaning threads at home it is not only not a poor way but the only way.

It was a suggestion for the best way.Many times a receiver is threaded with a tap at the factory and is not true.No matter how you do it the barrel should be checked for head-space after barrel installation.Find a general machine shop if you go with a tap it's a minor job and if the guy is nice he may do it for beer money.

No argument there.

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Originally Posted by Captlink

It was a suggestion for the best way.Many times a receiver is threaded with a tap at the factory and is not true.No matter how you do it the barrel should be checked for head-space after barrel installation.Find a general machine shop if you go with a tap it's a minor job and if the guy is nice he may do it for beer money.

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Receivers are not tapped at the factory, they are thread milled. Before thread milling, they were hobbed. They were never tapped, ever.

Please explane the hobbing operation of a receiver before threads are cut.

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Originally Posted by Captlink

Please explane the hobbing operation of a receiver before threads are cut.

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobbing

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Originally Posted by Captlink

Please explane the hobbing operation of a receiver before threads are cut.

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Hobbing is not done before the threads are cut. I think you misinterpreted what I said. Thread milling is a CNC operation, and before they used CNC equipment, they used a hob mill. A hob mill works the same way, only mechanical.

wont help op this time but there is a thread on here somewhere
that says to tighten front scope mount screw 1st to see if it bottoms out on barrel threads
leaving scope mount loose
if it does -shorten screw till it don't
better accuracy & the ability to change barrels without removing mounts -
one member even posted a pic of a barrel swap jig he made
that allows leaving optic in place
a wooden jig & a modified nut wrench used with a rear entry action tool

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

Hobbing is not done before the threads are cut. I think you misinterpreted what I said. Thread milling is a CNC operation, and before they used CNC equipment, they used a hob mill. A hob mill works the same way, only mechanical.

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OK, We used to hob gears at a shop I worked in durring the early 80's. The thread hobbing on an Id I could not picture. .

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

Hobbing is not done before the threads are cut. I think you misinterpreted what I said. Thread milling is a CNC operation, and before they used CNC equipment, they used a hob mill. A hob mill works the same way, only mechanical.

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I used a gear hobber as a apprentice machinist but have never seen them used for threading.I know how bad threading can be no matter how they are formed and a truing operation is SOP in my experience.I hope the op can have the problem repaired in a cost effective way.

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Originally Posted by Captlink

It was a suggestion for the best way.Many times a receiver is threaded with a tap at the factory and is not true.No matter how you do it the barrel should be checked for head-space after barrel installation.Find a general machine shop if you go with a tap it's a minor job and if the guy is nice he may do it for beer money.

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Setting up to "clean" ID threads with a single point bit in a lathe would be a nightmare seems to me.

Not so bad. Just takes time good lighting maybe a mirror and some layout dye.

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Originally Posted by Berniep

Setting up to "clean" ID threads with a single point bit in a lathe would be a nightmare seems to me.

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Experience makes it easy in as something as large as a receiver try resetting a bit inside .375 hole threaded 40tpi double. High magnification eye lopes help.

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Originally Posted by Berniep

Setting up to "clean" ID threads with a single point bit in a lathe would be a nightmare seems to me.

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I could do it in my sleep....well almost in my sleep. Having the right equipment helps.

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Originally Posted by sinman

I could do it in my sleep....well almost in my sleep. Having the right equipment helps.

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Stop bragging! Some of us have heavy metalworking equipment envy! :hail:

If you set up your compound right it is a piece of cake like sin said. If you have a left hand threading boring bar you can turn you chuck backwards and cut from in to out and see everything.