My left hand 300 Blackout bolt gun

Everything is pretty much done now except for the muzzle brake and whether it will wear a camoflage paint job. It is going to be a bench or prone only gun with the left handed action.

The action is a Savage short action with a modified Accutrigger. I also added a thrust bearing to the cocking mechanism to smooth the bolt lift.
The barrel is a 8 twist barrel built on a 416SS Green Mountain barrel blank that is 16.5" long and .920" OD with the muzzle threaded 5/8-24.
The stock is a Boyds "Tacticool" stock that started life as a right handed stock then I cut the left side for the left handed action.
The scope is a 6-18 Simmons Whitetail Expedition that is a temporary scope for accuracy testing. I think it will eventually wear a Nikon P22 scope because the turrets match my subsonic loads out to 150 yards. Or I might even add irons like I did for my wife's 45 ACP Savage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psc50caceb.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psa50d889c.jpg
Hoping to do some accuracy testing tomorrow.

My next project will be a Striker in 300 Blackout.

Looks great. Don't be suprised if that Green Mountain barrel shoots some good groups. My 6WSM is built on a Green Mountain CM blank and I am pleased so far with the accuracy that I have seen while doing load data developement. My 100yd 5 shot groups are all between .4 and .9 inches center to center and I have a lot of loads yet to try. First 3 shots of the smallest group so far were .166" center to center.

I am rambling, but I hope you have that kind of luck with it in the accuracy department. I will be watching for a range report.

I took a chance on Green Mountain about 4 years ago and that is all I use anymore with the exception of a McGowan for my 300 Blackout AR last year. All of the Green Mountain barrels have shot better than I could have ever expected or when you take the cost into account.

Good to hear. I was kinda the same way, figured I'd take a chance since they had the blank size I needed on the shelf when I needed it.

How bad do they copper for you and how hard are yours to clean?

I have a couple of blanks from them, one was made into the 6WSM and the other is a .452 bore 1:16 twist that is either going to become a 45ACP or a 450 Bushmaster, most likely the BM. So far the 6WSM seems to clean ok, but its still under 50 shots on it so.....

I shoot cast 99% of the time anymore so I have no clue about coppering with this barrel. As far as leading goes it is a non issue. I did build a 7.62x39 last year and shot surplus as well as factory ammo. Didn't notice any accuracy problems from copper fouling. But it is hard to see accuracy go down hill with 7.62x39.

I built several Savages in 7.62x25 Tokarev using a GM barrel. I shot surplus ammo as well as 180 grain jacketed bullets at 1,050 fps. It shot fine after thousands of rounds and I didn't notice any significant amount of copper.

Awesome. I wasn't getting any in this one either, but I had a Savage barrel that when new it didn't either and after a couple hundred rounds it started grabbing some. Was kinda weird. I ended up swapping it out anyway, but i figured since you have had a few I'd ask while fresh in my mind. Sorry for the hi-jack, again nice looking build and I'll watch for the range report.

Thanks.

I had a factory 223 barrel that has chatter marks you could see. It would copper up really bad. But it still shot under 1/2" with handloads. I pulled it at 600 rounds and it was still shooting 1/2" groups.

that one of mine still shot fine, I probably should have kept it, but that build went a different direction. I just found it funny that for the first 200 or so, when I would clean it upon returning home from the range it would be clean, no copper. Then one day it just started grabbing copper. That seemed a little backwards to me, but it still shot fine so I continued using it for awhile after that. It just seemed to me that if it was going to copper up, it would have from the start or grabbed from the start and then smoothed out after time rather than the other way around. Either way, glad to hear the GM barrels are not an issue in that department. ;)

Oh I want to build one bad!!! Can the tacticool be worked to acceptthe factory dbm ??

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Originally Posted by missed

Oh I want to build one bad!!! Can the tacticool be worked to acceptthe factory dbm ??

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I have no clue. I don't own any DBM actions.

I gotta ask...how much work (beyond converting to left-hand) was inletting the stock?

None. The stock was inletted for this action so it was drop in other than making it left hand. It is a universal stock so it can be used for a left or a righty.

When converting it over to left hand I set the action in the stock without the bolt handle and marked the width. I used a small flush cut saw to go down until it was almost the same height as the right hand cut out. Then I took a die grinder and slowly went down until the bolt handle would not bottom out. After that I painted the area I cut out with some black paint.

It is a very comfortable stock and a great value. I will say that it will get a bedding job done because even when the action screws are tight the action has a little more movement than I like.

It is a very wicked looking rifle. I bet it's fun to shoot :)

I didn't know that they had the Tacticool in Centerfire, I was only aware of the Rimfire version. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by dolomite_supafly

None. The stock was inletted for this action so it was drop in other than making it left hand. It is a universal stock so it can be used for a left or a righty.

When converting it over to left hand I set the action in the stock without the bolt handle and marked the width. I used a small flush cut saw to go down until it was almost the same height as the right hand cut out. Then I took a die grinder and slowly went down until the bolt handle would not bottom out. After that I painted the area I cut out with some black paint.

It is a very comfortable stock and a great value. I will say that it will get a bedding job done because even when the action screws are tight the action has a little more movement than I like.

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Love seeing nice left handed guns, being a lefty myself. But I've gotta ask, why does it have to be a bench or prone only gun, being that it's a left handed action?

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Originally Posted by coolhandluke

Love seeing nice left handed guns, being a lefty myself. But I've gotta ask, why does it have to be a bench or prone only gun, being that it's a left handed action?

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I am assuming that the OP is a right handed shooter. Some Right handed shooters will use left handed actions when shooting prone or on the bench because it can be easier to use the off hand to work the bolt and single load ammo, thus not loosing their grip and posture on the stock. However a righty trying to shoot a lefty gun off hand would be quite challenging.

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

I am assuming that the OP is a right handed shooter. Some Right handed shooters will use left handed actions when shooting prone or on the bench because it can be easier to use the off hand to work the bolt and single load ammo, thus not loosing their grip and posture on the stock. However a righty trying to shoot a lefty gun off hand would be quite challenging.

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+1

Couldn't have said it better myself.

Looks great! I have a handi-rifle in a 300blk, an 8.2in AR15 SBR (legal), and your rifle really floats my boat.....very interested in your results. Let me know if you want some load data for that barrel (Unique is very quiet with the 208AMax (Gemtec Titamium can)). I have some 247g Pb coming soon (waiting for 5 weeks now) so I can keep the single shot loads different from the AR loads. I am getting ready to lathe out another form 1 can for my single shot (when the ATF feels like sending my stamp back).

Same here as far as waiting to build another form 1 can. ATF is dragging feet these days. When I did my first a few years ago it took 97 days, door to door.

I designed my own bullet for the 300 when there was nothing out there that would work. It allows me to seat 245 grain (using COWW) to 2.10" OAL for use in a magazine WITHOUT exposing the lube grooves. All other bullets up until December either exposed the lube groove or were too long for use in an AR magazine. The only issue with teh Accurate mold is his tooling means the front is .18" across which can be problematic for some guns, like this one. I built a bolt gun previously using a different action and different barrel and it cycled fine but this one is being a pain. It cycles great in an AR but not in this bolt gun.

I am actually going to tear this gun down in the next few days. I am getting a Striker and it will be my 300 BO platform. I am going to chop the barrel down to probably 10"-12". When my SBR paperwork comes back I am going to chop an AR down to 9.5" then slowly chop the Striker down until the velocities match.

When you build your can you need to start casting for the 300. I do and it costs me 4.4 cents per loaded round for subs and 7.3 for supers.

If I understand correctly.........you made your own can? Just needed a stamp?

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Originally Posted by Apache

If I understand correctly.........you made your own can? Just needed a stamp?

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Yes

You apply using a form 1 to build rather than a form 4 to transfer. When you have approval you can begin the build. Paperwork is no harder than for a passport.

Here is my homebuilt Form 1 can on a Cricket Hunter pistol. I used a GM barrel blank to make the threaded barrel. When shooting subsonic ammo it is as quiet as a slingshot. It has a 316SS tube and 17-4 internal K baffles. All the same materials used for most centerfire cans. It should last several lifetimes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...h/c8eafdf0.jpg

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Originally Posted by Apache

If I understand correctly.........you made your own can? Just needed a stamp?

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From my reading of the ATF regs as long as its a not for manufacture status you can make one only needing the stamp. I have wanted a integrally suppressed 300 black without spending a massive fortune. I got a quote from a place that does a bunch of IS AR platforms for over $3k for a IS barrel and can 16.25"

I'm gonna check it out.........sweet little rig there BTW!!! Probably work real good on tree rats.

that is one sweet rifle...enjoy

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Originally Posted by missed

From my reading of the ATF regs as long as its a not for manufacture status you can make one only needing the stamp. I have wanted a integrally suppressed 300 black without spending a massive fortune. I got a quote from a place that does a bunch of IS AR platforms for over $3k for a IS barrel and can 16.25"

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Just to be clear.

One stamp is for one NFA item. And for one specific NFA item. You cannot get approved for one NFA item then use it to buy or build a different one than the one listed on the form.

When building a suppressor you fill out the Form 1. In doing so you have to come up with a length, a serial number, model number and caliber. The only thing that can vary is the length. The actual suppressor can be shorter but not any longer. You can move the suppressor from gun to gun legally.

Once the Form 1 is filled out in its entirety you take the form to your chief law enforcement officer in you jurisdiction unless you are building it under a trust. The CLEO signs the back and returns it. You make two copies of that form. You keep one copy and the other copy goes with the original.

Next you need two passport photos, just standard passport photos. Once in hand you attach them to the back of the Form 1, original and copy, using glue or staples. I also write my name, DOB and SSN on the back as well.

You must have two fingerprint cards done per application. And the fingerprint cards must be done manually and on cards that have the ATF's ORI number. You fill them out then take them to CLEO and have them inked with your fingerprints.

Next you complete one certification form. It can be done by the person that filled out the Form 1. So basically a US citizen certifies himself as a US citizen. You only need to complete one per application.

And finally you put the two Form 1's (original and copy), the two fingerprint cards, the certification for and a $200 check made out to the ATF in an envelope. You mail it all to the Atlanta office and then you wait.

Once your Form 1 comes back with the stamp then, and only then, can you start the build. If you decide you don't want to build you can apply for a refund. But once it has been built you cannot get a refund.

If you plan on making another then you must complete the process again.

And finally you cannot have "extra" parts. If you have any extra parts they are considered a suppressor in and of itself.

Very well written..I use a trust to avoid the pictures, fingerprints, and CLEO signature.

Which of the Green Mountain barrels are you starting off with to build off a Savage small shank?

I was thinking of using something like this for a fast twist 223 Ackley build just didn't know if they meant the finished diameter could be cut down to 1" or if it came as a 1" inch blank. Which would then not be the proper thickness correct?
http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/barrelb...d-barrel-blank

if it is only an inch it is too small for a small shank action...

Small shank is roughly 1.060", so you would most likely want to start with a blank that is 1.125 or larger. My blank that was built into a small shank 6mm-WSM was 1.270" as it arrived from Green Mountain.

Its easy to make the blank O.D. smaller, making it larger however, not so much. ;)

The barrel you linked will not work.

I am not building a 223, I built a 300 Blackout.

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Originally Posted by dolomite_supafly

The barrel you linked will not work.

I am not building a 223, I built a 300 Blackout.

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I do believe his question was would the linked Green Mountain blank work for a 223AI build?

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Originally Posted by bootsmcguire

Small shank is roughly 1.060", so you would most likely want to start with a blank that is 1.125 or larger. My blank that was built into a small shank 6mm-WSM was 1.270" as it arrived from Green Mountain.

Its easy to make the blank O.D. smaller, making it larger however, not so much. ;)

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I guess what I was asking was the barrels you guys have ordered come in their advertised size exactly. Was the 1.25 diameter barrel 1.25 exactly.

As you said the small shank size is roughly 1.060". If the 1" barrel came slightly oversized then it should be able to work no problem.

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Originally Posted by Got Diesel

I guess what I was asking was the barrels you guys have ordered come in their advertised size exactly. Was the 1.25 diameter barrel 1.25 exactly.

As you said the small shank size is roughly 1.060". If the 1" barrel came slightly oversized then it should be able to work no problem.

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Mine I was told when I phone ordered it, that it was 1.270 and thats what I got. I also ordered a .452" blank and it was listed at 1.250 and thats what I got right down to the .001".

Hope that helps.

Now length was a different story. The 6mm blank was listed at 27" and it came 29". The .452" was listed at 25" and it came 26". No complaints here though. Better too long than too short.

They ALWAYS answer the phone and can answer any question you might have about the blanks or complete barrels. I have called them several times to get the specs on barrels I have ordered and they gave me the information I need.

I am going to be building a 22Jet barrel real soon for this gun. Except rather than use 357 Magnum brass I am going to use 223 brass. I might need to turn some necks but I am pretty sure it will work well. I will cut it down to 4"-6" and thread it 1/2-28 so I can use my 22 suppressor with subsonic loads. I am thinking of using a 9 twist and shooting 69 SMK's loaded backwards. They work fine and are stable in my 9 twist 223 barrel.

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Originally Posted by dolomite_supafly

They ALWAYS answer the phone and can answer any question you might have about the blanks or complete barrels. I have called them several times to get the specs on barrels I have ordered and they gave me the information I need.

I am going to be building a 22Jet barrel real soon for this gun. Except rather than use 357 Magnum brass I am going to use 223 brass. I might need to turn some necks but I am pretty sure it will work well. I will cut it down to 4"-6" and thread it 1/2-28 so I can use my 22 suppressor with subsonic loads. I am thinking of using a 9 twist and shooting 69 SMK's loaded backwards. They work fine and are stable in my 9 twist 223 barrel.

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Sounds like that could be fun to play with.

Thanks for the information fellas.