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What is the best carbon cutter bar none?
I bought a used 308 barrel I have been cleaning on it for 2 days
I have used about everything plus brass brushes and I am still getting carbon out of it.
Have used about 100 patches.
I know it is bound to have copper in it but have not got any traces of it yet.
gee i have never had one that bad but if you can plug one end of the barrel you might try filling it with kroil and let it set for a day or two. that should at least start to get under it by then where you can get most of it out. kroil does great things when you want it to get under something. i know it will cut light carbon and the regular stuff like rust is doomed.
thanks I just ordered some kroil and Butches Bore Shine from midway today.
I bet the guy that had this barrel never ever cleaned it.
I also know there is bound to be some copper under the carbon.
I just have not reached it yet.
I found that Kroil and butches is not the best thing on carbon.
Best thing to cut carbon is GM TEC (Top Engine Cleaner) General Motors dropped it from their dealerships but replaced it for TE&FIC. (Top engine and fuel injector cleaner.) Doing this the priced tripled, but the product supposedly works the same. Some dealerships have the old stuff on the shelf and if you can find it buy all of it. Back in the day you got a big can of it for 5 bucks.
Now if you want a gun cleaner that works, get a bottle of Shooter Choice. You may ask what is in shooter Choice that makes it work so good, well in the list is GM TEC. I found on bad carbon deposits that cleaning with JB bore paste is absolutely needed, followed up with shooters choice letting the shooters choice sit a hour or two before cleaning it out. In extreme cases I take a worn out bore brush and wrap it with 0000 steel wool, and coat it with JB and run it back and forth.
a long with engine cleaners what about gunk.
I have not seen any of it for a long time though.
I just found this site very interesting how to clean barrels..
http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
No.Quote:
Originally Posted by okie2
I read that a long time ago, and I don't quite believe it. If you going to remove carbon why not cut a carbon fouled barrel into segment's and soak each segment in the solution, instead of trying to mimic making coper on a strip. He never tried TEC, Shooters choice, or RB17. But he also never had a control what happen when you use plain water? I just don't buy everything I read on the Internet.Quote:
Originally Posted by okie2
KG1 is the best thing I have found. I know exactly what you are talking about. I neglected my first two bench rest barrels and had a dickens of a time getting it out... I tried every thing I could get my hands on. KG1 is without a doubt the best thing I could find. It works very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by okie2
Adrian
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...campaign=10612
Spray brake cleaner is the best thing I have found to use. $2.48 at Walmart. Just don't get it on plastic! A friend bought an old Japanese rifle for $75 and it was supposed to have a bad barrel. It was black inside. He tried lots of stuff to no avail. Cleaned it with brake cleaner (with very little effort) and then the barrel was just fine. Shoots 2" groups at 100 yards now with hand loads. I know one well known custom gun maker that only uses brake cleaner to clean barrels.
I've used GM top engine cleaner for a few years now and it is good. But... last month while we were cleaning and borescoping barrels before and after, I had the chance to use KG against GM tec and the KG is far better. Toyota makes a TEC that you can purchase, and you can still find it here and there at the Chevy dealer. I'll be buying the KG.
Any thoughts on Seafoam?
For Carbon removal I rely on an old formula..... Ed's Red
Its a DIY.
I make a gallon and give some to my buddies.
This stuff really works.... for carbon.... not very good for copper
I recently whipped up a gallon of Ed's Red and it really works well on everything except copper. The lanolin in Ed's Red is supposed to help reduce future copper fouling.
Charlie
So what does it take to make ED's RED ??
Wipeout! 'Nuff said! ;D
http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/d...ch/eds_red.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by okie2
WIPEOUT OVER NIGHTAND FOLLOW WITH A WET PATCH OF BUTCHES TO WIPE IT CLEAN .
I use wipeout . I've let it sit for a few hours ,over night and it does a good job. I've found better results with the KG, it removes carbon better then GM top engine cleaner.
any one ever used slip 2000 carbon killer?
Wipeout and Patchout. Patchout is just non-foaming Wipeout. Excellent products and won't hurt a barrel when left in it overnight. Gets copper and carbon out.
Seafoam works great,
Yes - It is kids stuff compared to KG1.Quote:
Originally Posted by okie2
Adrian
Adrian,Quote:
Originally Posted by AVanGorder
So I did a little checking on the KG1 and found an interesting report. See link. Is the KG12 just a larger container? How much do you use for one good cleaning? What I'm asking should I just order the KG12?
http://www.jarheadtop.com/KG12_Test_Results.htm
Pete K.
OK, I figured it out... KG1 is for carbon and KG12 is for copper removal. Thanks.... Then there's KG3 aerosol that removes both... right?
The best bar none is Deaton Gun Care.
http://www.deatonsguncare.com/
Pete,Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete K.
KG12 is a wonderful product, the only downside is that you aren't sure when all the copper is out. Most copper cleaners present a dark blue color when copper is there. When there is no more dark blue on the patch, you're done. KG12 is strange, you won't see that dark blue color. It's more brownish. But KG12 will clean the copper out and it does it extremely fast.
I conducted my own test a couple years ago. I got as many copper cleaners as I could get my hands on, put one drop of each on different pennies, let them stay over night. The next day I wiped them off. Most of them did nothing, some removed some tarnish. KG12 actually pitted the penny.
KG1 - Saturate a patch and run it down the barrel, do it three times so the barrel is nice and coated. Wait about two minutes and scrub the barrel with a bronze brush which also has the KG1 on it. I typically stroke 15 times then run three dry patches down the barrel. You will feel the barrel is much smoother after doing this.
Adrian
I did the same thing with sweets 762 on a penny for 3 days
it did nothing to the copper
Not too surprising - very little copper in a penny these days. You would need to try it on one from the 1970's or 60's to see its real effect on copper.
"After 1962, the tin content of the penny was removed completely, and the cent was minted with a composition of 95 percent copper and 5 percent zinc. This remained the standard until 1982, when the composition was once again changed. This time, the penny’s copper content was drastically reduced. The new penny was composed of 97.5 percent zinc and 2.5 percent copper and it remains this way today"
Adrian said:
KG1 - Saturate a patch and run it down the barrel, do it three times so the barrel is nice and coated. Wait about two minutes and scrub the barrel with a bronze brush which also has the KG1 on it. I typically stroke 15 times then run three dry patches down the barrel. You will feel the barrel is much smoother after doing this. Adrian
Adrian,
Bronze is a mix of copper & brass (the proportions escape me @ the moment). Doesn't the KG1 work on the bronze brush? Would disolving bronze brush material also show up on the patches? How do you know the barrel's really clean?
Might a nylon brush be better?
I'm not trying to be a smart-alec, just wondering...
ultramag44
For this same reason I don't use brass brushes any more nylon for me now.
KG1 won't mess with the bronze brush. KG12 will totally tear it up. What I do, is spray the brush off with brake cleaner when I'm done brushing. Brake cleaner seems to really extend the life of the bronze brush.Quote:
Originally Posted by ultramag44
Cleaning with KG1, the patches will come out black, which is good because carbon is black. Clean patches will tell you you've removed the carbon.
Adrian
I guess over the years I have tried every solvent on the market maybe. Right now I am testing KG12 and KG2 also Bore Tech Cu+2 and Bore Tech Carbon remover. So far KG12 seems to work the fastest as far as getting copper out of the barrel. Bore Tech CU +2 attacks the jags and brushes as well ,Brakleen must be used to clean the brush and jags quickly the same for KG12.
After using KG12 I test the barrel with CU+2 and if any copper is in the barrel it will show up real fast. Then I will run another patch with KG12 20 times up and back slowly. That will take care of the copper.
Another vote for KG1 carbon remover. I have tried them all and it is the best thing there is for carbon bar none. follow it with KG12 Big bore cleaner if you have copper fouling and it will be just about as clean as you can make it. If you still have accuracy problems, finish up with KG2 Bore Restore, it will remove any corrosion you may have and polish the bore a bit. And with these three products you can have your bore about as close to perfect as you can make it in 20 minutes or less. I run three patches through them with the carbon remover while scrubbing back and forth then 3-5 dry patches by 5 your patches will be coming out clean. I soak the copper remover patches a little more so it takes a couple more dry patches, the color won't be the same as with other copper removers, but don't panic, just go with it. otherwise do it the same as with the carbon remover. With the bore restore, it is more of a paste type substance. so you may want to rub it into the patch, otherwise same as before. the first couple bore restore patches and following dry patches will be black when you remove them, again, don't panic, this is normal. It polishes out everything in the crevices that your cleaners will not. If I am putting the gun up I soak a patch in remoil or similar gun oil to prevent corrosion,otherwise I just shoot it.
I have seen several guns tighten up a lot using this method, the most notable is my Model 100 winchester .308 my grandfather left me, I cleaned it last monday, it was shooting 4 inch groups at best, afterwards with the same ammo it was shooting way under half inch groups. A rarity for any auto loading rifle in my experience, and I was down right shocked.