How does one remove the smooth barrel nut? I have seen special tools made for the job, but was wondering if there are alternative (common) tools/procedures I could try. I doubt I will be doing this more often than once or twice in my lifetime.
Printable View
How does one remove the smooth barrel nut? I have seen special tools made for the job, but was wondering if there are alternative (common) tools/procedures I could try. I doubt I will be doing this more often than once or twice in my lifetime.
Pipe wrench and replace with a regular notched nut.
Exactly what he said. I have a tool to remove one but have not tried it. Most that I've heard that have tried it says it doesn't work well and they wind up with a pipe wrench in their fist.
:) Okay, maybe there were more points to my question than I realized...
Assuming I go ahead with the pipe wrench, and get a notched nut, should I then get one of those (notched) wrenches?
yes, get a notched nut and notch nut wrench.
I have gotten the smooth nuts off with a strap wrench but I think I got lucky.
okay. That's what I'll do, then.
thanks, guys.
Hey Foxx. Make sure you stay away from the recoil lug with your stillson wrench. We have seen some ugliness if it rotates with the nut.
Gotcha.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
Thanks.
I ordered the barrel wrench set by Wheeler and it came with both a duel notched wrench and a wrench for the smooth nut as well.
I have not tried it yet since I'am still waiting on my barrel, but will try the smooth wrench any way.
I picked up a notched nut just to be safe.
Yep, when I got my Wheeler wrench it had both in the box, the "smooth nut" wrench sits in the box new and unused.Quote:
Originally Posted by Damol
I just tried to use a pipe wrench to remove a barrel from a 10 p-sr 308. I got it loose, brushed clean the threads and proceeded to remove the nut part of the way, which is where it got stuck and would not move. I tried to back it off. I oiled the threads more. Long story short, I had to dremel it off. After the nut was removed, I noticed that the threads were completely packed with bluing salts (?) and small pieces of "grit".
Both of the smooth nuts I have removed have been the same way...packed out with grit and salts.
I just changed out barrels on a 110fxp and savage axis this week that were both horribly bound up with salts and both had the notched nuts. One I was finally able to get off with a pipe wrench but the nut looked like it had been through a war. I'm going to have to clean it up and coat it or replace it. The other one I had to cut off. I've done a ton of barrel swaps and never had the kind of issues that I had with these two rifles.
If you had the smooth nut wrench and drilled and tapped a hole where the wrench rides the nut and drilled a shallow hole in the nut, then screwed a bolt through the wrench into the dimple in the nut, would that work? I'm in the process of getting ready for a build and need all the advice I can get.
I give the nut a good shot of Kroil oil and let it set overnight and then use a pipe wrench and a dead blow hammer.
I think it might, as long as the hole in the wrench didn't weaken the wrench too much. It also sounds like a lot of work, but I will admit that I have been known to spend hours doing something in order to save pennies. When successful, the sense of satisfaction is priceless.Quote:
Originally Posted by OLEJOE
That's what I'm talking about. Afterall isn't that why we do these things?
I've spent hundreds for what could have been done for pennys. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by thomae
Pipe wrench, strap wrench, etc, sounds like a real pain. I put the barrel in a barrel vice and use an action wrench to back (unscrew) the action away from the nut. No muss, no fuss. As soon as the action breaks away from the nut, the nut and barrel unscrewed by hand. It was quite easy.
-Rick
Only if the threads are clean which from what I've seen on this forum is not often unless you changed the barrel previously!Quote:
Originally Posted by Switchbarrel
Sent from my HTCEVOV4G using Tapatalk 2
+1 to what LoneWolf said. There are many action nuts out there that aren't that easy! :(
just removed a smooth nut with the Wheeler wrench and the brass shim that came with it. It came off pretty easy. Just kept tightening the bolt on the wrench and hit it with a hammer. I will give someone the wrench and unscathed smooth nut as I'm not going to use either again.
Ill take it. LOL
Dang. Day late and a dollar short once again!
If you are serious, I'll PM you with the shipping cost. Also need your addressQuote:
Originally Posted by stangfish
It's on its way. Pay It Forward
The grit in a Axis was like glass beading material. Things worked after brake cleaner and anti-seize. Did make hard to remove.
it appears that many of the newer rifles have that same issue. Go slow, clean and the nut will come off. Once the threads are cleaned out it goes back on liked a greased knife through jello.Quote:
Originally Posted by Idahojoe
This is why I have gotten in the habit of Kroil before and heat the barrel nut to ~250 degrees and they come off a lot easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by thomae
???Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolf
It was a brand new factory rifle. First time for the barrel coming off.
The threads within the action were fine. Unscrewing the action off the barrel as I did, you don't even need to touch the nut (or the threads under/behind it). It's becomes essentially the same procedure as
any shouldered Remington or ? barrel removal.
-Rick
Switchbarrel, with a barrel vice and an action wrench, you are well "set up". That does help take the pain out of the process. :-)