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I'm installing a Sharp Shooter Competition trigger for the first time and the instructions don't say anything about what to use to lock the adjusting screws in place. I was thinking I would use blue Loctite, but I'm curious to know what others are using. I want to be able to change the adjustments later if needed.
I have 2 of them and didn't put anything on the adjustment screws. They have yet to move on me. I asked SSS the same question and they said to not use loctite. FWIW
DO NOT USE ANY LOCTITE ON THE TRIGGER. (Unless you want to trash the hole works.) Loctite has a wicking affect and will creak and crawl everywere you don't want it to go. Some people use finger nail polish but, there is no need to use any product on the screws of the trigger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Skunce
The screws on mine turn very easily, is that normal? Seems like they wouldn't hold their adjustment.
yesQuote:
Originally Posted by Skunce
Yes it is normal for the screws to turn easily.Nothing wrong with that cause they are fresh threads.
Mine have backed out of adjustment on almost everyone Ive owned. So I use medium strength locktite on mine. Not a gallon of it so it seeps everywhere, just a dab so it will hold the screw in place. Must work cause mine are not trash now ;). Havent had any trouble since. But if you use it make sure it is MEDIUM strength. DO NOT go by the color, cause different companies use different colors.
I also have 1 rifle basix SAV2 trigger that I did not put anything on to see if it would back out as well. And it did, so dont think that there is something wrong with yours, cause there isnt.
I saw an ad for new product, Loctite tape the other day, that may be a good solution. I'd just like the peace of mind that the screws aren't going to move once they're set.
Try some gun tite from uncle mikes....holds but not too tight
skunce,
im glad you asked this question cause my trigger should be here any day. i was wondering if the directions talked about adjusting the trigger screws much? or if it is mostly instalation
they will explain adj also.
On my first SSS, nothing has changed since installed. On the second one, the safety screw kept backing off, rendering the safety unusable; a little dab of medium loctite seems to have fixed that one, as well. That said, I wouldn't use loctite unless needed, and then only a minimal amount.
I dab a little paint on screws instead of locktite and it seems to hold good on mounts rings etc.
got my trigger today now to see how this all works out
Maybe try some Loctite 248. It's in like a chap stick tube. No mess and stays where you put it.
This might sound funny but a top bow shooter would use string wax on screws so the viberations wouldn't back them out. It works. Joe
that trigger was soo easy to instal and adjust. have to take it to the range soon
Hello, I just installed mine and I found that the safety bar engagement screw is turned almost all the way out to reach the safety bar - about 1/8" of threads left. And in the directions it says that the over travel adjustment only needs to be turned "approximately" 1 turn, mine needed to be turned much more that that.
The rear of the SSS assembly is sitting on the Savage trigger frame and the pull is #1.75.
It just seemed that the screws are a bit far out, is that how they are or is something not quite right?
Thanks,
NoHair
I just installed mine and found the same thing, except i can't get the overtravel screw far enough in to take as much overtravel out as i want...maybe i'm not adjusting it right? Does the overtravel need to be done before the safty adjustment? Thanks for any help...even as is , it is a nice trigger....rsbhunter
i think the safety was the first thing. do you have the directions
I had installed min correctly according to the instructions. This weekend I went to a long range shoot and had the screws come loose after about 150 rds, and the safety started acting funny. Tore it down today and found a loose screw, installed the Accutrigger back into the gun and consider their trigger a POS and a liability in the field. I guess it would be OK if you just sat at a bench and shot.
Lesson learned.
Lock tite?Quote:
Originally Posted by nohair
I have several of these triggers and once you figure out what is involved with installing them and how to tune them they are really great.
1. Cut the notch in the trigger carrier.
2. Grind down the trigger guard so the trigger will fit between the action and the stock/trigger guard.
3. Follow the directions very closely, at least until you figure out how the mechanism works.
4. Bump stock on ground and work the action hard several times to test it to make sure everything works and it doesn't fire when you don't want it to.
The screws coming loose can be solved by applying blue loctite or finger nail polish to the screws after you get them set where you want them.
Be careful mentioning loctite on this forum though, it is a common occurrence to get flamed for even thinking about using loctite on anything. ;D
I spent half my life working on aircraft and the last 25 years as a quality control inspector making sure screws and bolts didn't come loose on these same aircraft.
On a delicate mechanism like the SSS trigger or ANY trigger you do not want to use any type loctite that can get inside the trigger mechanism and gum up the works.
Clear nail polish is nothing more than a liquid acrylic plastic, that is desolved with nail polish remover (acetone). A dab of nail polish will flow into the screw slot or hex head hole of any small screw and as long as the nail polish is touching the screw and the trigger housing the screw will NOT move.
We used the same basic principle on helicopters to keep screws and fasteners from vibrating loose on these Polish Hang gliders and they NEVER came loose. A small dab of paint, a small shot from a hot glue gun ETC will work also, just keep all of this type of material on the OUTSIDE of the trigger.
Don't cry about a loose screw it could be rusted and not want to move at all, and a dab of nail polish or paint helps keep aircraft from falling out of the sky.
That's not correct unless you flood the screws with the stuff. It's used routinely on scope mounting bolts and, unless used to great excess, doesn't get into the action.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82boy
A small drop holds the screw well but doesn't get into any place it shouldn't. Blue (Grade 242) or Purple (Grade 222) are low to medium strength Loctite and will hold small bolts firmly but allow disassembly with ordinary tools and no heat.
My Rifle Basix SAV-RAT rimfire replacement trigger came with a recommendation to use Blue Loctite on the adjustment bolts after you get the settings you want.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cycler
My new Remington 700 had a drop of liquid plastic placed over the top each adjustment screw on their factory trigger and NO loctite. A set of scope bases and rings is NOT a trigger assembly and a tooth pick and nail polish on top of the screw will hold it in position. There is no way I would put loctite on the small trigger adjustment screws threads and fight to make adjustments down the road or take a chance of stripping these small screws.
Clear nail polish was all that was used on my new SSS trigger and after readjusting my Remington trigger.
You are not rebuilding an engine or transmission and these set screws do NOT carry any load.
http://www.quarterbore.com/library/a...00trigger.html
http://www.switchbarrel.com/Savage%2...SSSInstall.htm
I have scraped the sealer/finger nail polish off many Remington triggers and to tell you the truth I would much rather deal with a small dab of blue loctite any day!
Just my opinion though, do what you want ... :o
BigedP51,
Nail polish sounds good to me.
I probably have twenty years as a jet engine mechanic and I can honestly say, I never remember seeing any thread locker. Anything that needed to be safetied was either safety wired or had some type of self locking feature, are the methods you were talking about FAA approved? I'm not disagreeing, I'm just asking, I have lived a sheltered life so I'm open to learning new things.
Jeff
The pots in electronic devices, adjustment screws in instruments, any small adjustment screw was sealed with a coat of clear lacquer or a liquid plastic. I'm not sure about FAA approval, I worked at a Army overhaul depot and we played by our own rules and the FAA didn't have any control over the military.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mallard57
BUT the methods you mentioned were what we used and were standard practice on normal hardware, lock nuts, safety wire and painted slippage marks.
Aircraft Bolt Torquing joke
Inspector to mechanic: Did you torque those bolts?
Mechanic: Yes I tightened the the bolt until the threads started to smoke and then gave the bolt two more full turns.