MkII G Project (or, how accurate can I get this thing!?)

Hello! Let me start with the short backstory:

My local range has 2 rimfire matches: NRA Smallbore Hunter Silhouette and ARA 50y bench. I want to build a rifle that will be legal for both, and I want to do it as cheaply/easily as possible. The club has a $500 limit for the plinker class ARA shoot, so I have to keep it under that. I think I found a way to make it happen.

Here's my list of things I need for this project:

Savage Mk. II G (Ordered / paid for) Price: $193
Rifle Basix SAV-RAT, set to 2lbs (Shipped) Price: $83.95
Stock savage weaver mounts (I already have these from a previous Mk. II FV build) Price: $0
Burris Signature Zee rings (Shipped) Price: $34
Burris offset inserts, 20moa drop (Shipped) Price: $15.89
Bushnell 6-24x40 AO Mildot (Shipped) Price: $147.67
Removable cheek riser pad, removed for NRA match (Shipped) Price: TBD
New bottom metal (already have from a previous build) Price: $0

Total so far: $474.51. Well under the limit.

Not counted in budget: Caldwell Bipod (to use for non-match shooting).

Also going to try a pillar bedding idea I had using threaded wood inserts instead of glassing / glueing in the pillars. Basically, when the rifle comes in, I'm going to measure the depth to the action studs, drill the holes out to 23/64, and install the appropriate length of threaded insert to raise the action 1/16". The plan is to have the rifle completely floating in the stock, the only contact being made is between the pillars and action studs. I also just ordered a Seekonk torque wrench, and I plan on tuning the action screws in 5in/lb increments. My ammo selection at the moment is Lapua Midas, Eley Tenex, and Wolf Match. I figure I can find a winner between those three.

The scope worries me a bit. Finding a good scope under budget is problematic, but I have a Bushnell 4-12x40 AO on another rifle, and it's plenty useable. I figure if it's close to the same as the 4-12x, it should be good to go.

I absolutely do not expect this rifle to compete with target-grade CZs, Annies, 40x's, etc. But I *do* hope to get it competitive for the classes that require a pencil barrel.

Stay tuned! I'll be sure to post pictures here as the pieces come in.

EDIT: Moving the pictures to the first post for the TL;DR people:

MilDot Hold Chart (For standard Mil Dot scopes with .25 MOA clicks):
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psddf2f747.png

MILRAD Hold Chart (For SWFA SS MILRAD scopes with .1 mil clicks):
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...pse2a3cecc.png

Drift Chart for windage adjustment (Stopped at 225 to match Mil Dot chart):
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps59496263.png

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps0bec8c60.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps4718a869.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps1e87df9d.jpg


Sigting-in target, to verify 50y zero:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psf017aa73.jpg

The drop test target....pretty dead-on, I'd say:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psa6dda0dc.jpg

What distance do you shoot the steels?

I am curious why you went with 20MOA rings.

Hopefully that Bushnell does the job for you. Everytime I have looked at those scopes locally for my next varmint rifle I wasn't impressed. For the money I would have ordered a Mueller APT. I have 2 APV's and they are darlings.

For what it is worth my last 3 shots today with my MKIIG that is basically stock except it has DIP bottom metal, screws and trigger guard & a Simmons 3-9x32 scope (not even a 22mag)..the final 3 shots were in the same hole using Aguila Super Extra SV. Well within minute of squirrel head.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by plinkin

What distance do you shoot the steels?

I am curious why you went with 20MOA rings.

Hopefully that Bushnell does the job for you. Everytime I have looked at those scopes locally for my next varmint rifle I wasn't impressed. For the money I would have ordered a Mueller APT. I have 2 APV's and they are darlings.

For what it is worth my last 3 shots today with my MKIIG that is basically stock except it has DIP bottom metal, screws and trigger guard & a Simmons 3-9x32 scope (not even a 22mag)..the final 3 shots were in the same hole using Aguila Super Extra SV. Well within minute of squirrel head.

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Thanks for the encouraging response!

I chose a 20moa mount because that is what I use on all of my rifles. It just gives me that extra little bit of scope travel at longer ranges. The NRA smallbore course of fire is 40, 66, 77, and 100 yards. 20moa just might help a bit at 100, and I know several people that shim the rear ring to give them anywhere from 10-30moa for that match. I also occasionally really stretch the legs on the other .22 I have (Mk II FV). It's really fun to try to hit targets at 200, 300, 400 and beyond with a .22.

I checked out the Mueller scopes and they did interest me. I went with a Bushnell because that's what I had on my other .22 before I switched to an SWFA SS. It served me well and was pretty clear, but it was also only a 4-12x40.

The parts are trickling in and should be here this coming week.

I second the Mueller scopes. I have a 4.5-14 X 40 APT on my BTVLSS and love it. It's the first mil dot scope I've owned, pretty cool to shoot. I bought the scope for the ability to focus down to 10 yards and the fine crosshair it has. One of the things I learned years ago from shooting a bow is if you want to shoot small you have to aim small.

They seem to be nice scopes, but I've already ordered the Bushnell.

Mil-Dots are great when you get the hang of them, but they are only really usable in 3 situations: Fixed-power scopes, FFP variable scopes, or at the zoom setting where the dot spacing is exactly 1 mil (roughly 3.6" at 100y). I prefer the fixed-power method...it makes different calculations so much easier when dividing / multiplying by 10, 20, etc.

I am a combat vet and served (among other roles) as the DM for my platoon. Rifles are my hobby and at one point were what kept me alive. That being said, you are 100% correct...aim small = miss small. Of course, you have to have a rifle capable of hitting close to where you're aiming in the first place ;)

Back OT: The trigger arrived today. I use the RB trigger on my other Mk. II and I love it, so I'm hoping this one turns out just as good.

I shoot rimfire silhoutte with a Mark II BRJ and found that it didn't like the expensive ammo any better than the Fed Auto Match so that is what I run through it.

The scope will get you by but I find that those tiny little turkeys get hard to see behind a large crosshair so I use a fine duplex, others like a small dot.

Also, bear in mind that weight limit NRA has for silhouette. It will work against you in the BR stuff.

We have a competition section that includes silhouette and BR. You may want to check there.

Thanks for the response. I've checked the weight limit, and the rifle will (as a best guess so far) be legal for both. The scope is a hair over 1.22 lbs, and the rifle is 5.5. That's 6.7, which leaves 1.8 for rings and trigger, which are well under that.

I'm not concerned with the weight limit hurting BR, because the "plinker" class was designed for shooters to use bone-stock hunting-style .22's. I already have a BR-specific Mk II anyway. This is just for the fun of it mainly, and if it fails miserably, I'll still have a very usable squirrel gun.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shanejohnson2002

This is just for the fun of it mainly, and if it fails miserably, I'll still have a very usable squirrel gun.

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I like that thought process :-)

Good news: More stuff arrived today: DIP bottom metal, scope, rings, 20moa base. Basically, I have everything *except* the actual rifle. But, it shipped today. Next week is going to be good, I think!

I changed from the 20moa inserts to a fixed 20moa base. The total cost is still under my limit and it'll be easier to transfer "normal" 0moa rings onto a canted base if I ever change scopes in the future.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shanejohnson2002

Good news: More stuff arrived today: DIP bottom metal, scope, rings, 20moa base. Basically, I have everything *except* the actual rifle. But, it shipped today. Next week is going to be good, I think!

I changed from the 20moa inserts to a fixed 20moa base. The total cost is still under my limit and it'll be easier to transfer "normal" 0moa rings onto a canted base if I ever change scopes in the future.

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I think that was a good idea with the base. Did you go with a DIP base or EGW or something else? I really like DIP's products (and EGW too). I have purchased a small fortune in DIP products.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by plinkin

I think that was a good idea with the base. Did you go with a DIP base or EGW or something else? I really like DIP's products (and EGW too). I have purchased a small fortune in DIP products.

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I like DIP products, but I went with EGW because that's what I have on my 10 FCPK. The price was about the same between them both.

I plan on going all-DIP on my next project rifle: A MkII BTVLS for my lefty fiancee. Mainly because they offer theirs in a matching silver finish.

Shane
Basic rifle. Ten power SS 10x by 42. Added the Rhineland Arms Leopard stock. The Vortex flash hider is to keep the threads clean till my can comes in. This gun holds MOA @ 100 yds, dings iron at 200 and can be boringly accurate. DIP bottom metal ( had to do some inlet work on the stock). EGW rail, SWFA 30 MM rings. I am going to pillar bed it soon.
Twenty one inch pounds on the action. Great gun, buying a 93r17 FV and put the Tacticool stock that was under this at first on that one. 17 HMR is ammo that is easier to find around here. I shoot Wolf Target, and SK Standard anyway, so the price is no different. Good luck.

http://i.imgur.com/RB5uTE5l.jpg

That isn't the same barrel as the one I'm getting. I also have an fv in a tacticool stock that is, as you said, boringly accurate. I still expect the pencil barrel to do well, but probably not quite as good as your/my heavies.

Update: Rifle has arrived. I put all the parts and pieces in it, except for the cheek riser. I'm going to try without it a few times to see what happens.

A few notes:
1) The RB trigger is awesome. They say it's a 1lb minimum...I set it up exactly at 2 and it's crisp and clean with just a bit of resistance. I think I will try the overtravel trigger guard eventually, but for now this works.

2)The Zee rings were interesting...I've never used them before (I have DNZ Game Reapers on most of my other rifles). The top half screws were almost too short, you have to press the ring down a bit to get them to bite. Once they do though, it's there.

3)The crown on this rifle is a standard hunting-style rounded crown. I may re-crown it later, but I'll see how it shoots first.

4) The rear action screw would not turn up to 15 in/lbs. It kept biting into the wood. I got a flat washer and that solved the problem.

5) The barrel is indeed free-floated. Very nice, Savage. Very nice.

6) The DIP bottom metal is very obviously a vast improvement over stock. It's thicker and sits outside of the stock though...I may try to inlet it a bit. But I'll shoot it first and see what happens.

Next up, ammo testing. Hopefully today or tomorrow I can make it out to the range and take some pictures.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shanejohnson2002

Update: Rifle has arrived. I put all the parts and pieces in it, except for the cheek riser. I'm going to try without it a few times to see what happens.

A few notes:
1) The RB trigger is awesome. They say it's a 1lb minimum...I set it up exactly at 2 and it's crisp and clean with just a bit of resistance. I think I will try the overtravel trigger guard eventually, but for now this works.

2)The Zee rings were interesting...I've never used them before (I have DNZ Game Reapers on most of my other rifles). The top half screws were almost too short, you have to press the ring down a bit to get them to bite. Once they do though, it's there.

3)The crown on this rifle is a standard hunting-style rounded crown. I may re-crown it later, but I'll see how it shoots first.

4) The rear action screw would not turn up to 15 in/lbs. It kept biting into the wood. I got a flat washer and that solved the problem.

5) The barrel is indeed free-floated. Very nice, Savage. Very nice.

6) The DIP bottom metal is very obviously a vast improvement over stock. It's thicker and sits outside of the stock though...I may try to inlet it a bit. But I'll shoot it first and see what happens.

Next up, ammo testing. Hopefully today or tomorrow I can make it out to the range and take some pictures.

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Excellent! Yes, the wood is THE weak point of the Savage MK IIs and 93s. The front action boss is the issue. It is a ***** to pillar bed. I was going to but chicked out. I will find another way to bed the rifle! Looking forward to the pictures. Just a point:..don't waste time with cheap ammo, you will not like it. Mine loves Wolf and SK. Remington Eley is my new love in it, but again, it is all hard to find now.

The only ammo i use for matches is lapua Midas, but i got a couple of boxes of eley tenex to try. I figure 2-3 5 round groups should tell me which one groups best up front, and then I'll start tuning the action screws.

UPDATE: Took it to the range on Sunday. The ammo test was inconclusive...I couldn't get it to group under 1" or so at 50y. Fliers everywhere. Could have been me, too, but I took out the FV and it made cloverleaves at 50. I'm going to try again this coming weekend. If it still doesn't work, I will see what options I have. Right now, I'm thinking the Tubb's Final Finish kit, the screw-in pillars I mentioned earlier, and shimming the barrel in different places to tune it.

I think the Eley grouped slightly better than the Lapua, but only slightly. The washer I had on the rear action screw actually coned into the hole in the stock, so I replaced it by stacking a finishing washer on top of a smaller flat washer. It seems to be holding much better.

UPDATE: No pictures (my phone died....next time I go will be a week from Wednesday, and I"ll take some then). I got the scope dialed in, and then started tuning the action screws. It really seems to like 25 in/lb on front and back, so that's where I left it. I still get the *occasional* flyer, but I was more than pleased with the results. By the time I was done tuning, I was able to fairly consistently keep every round inside a 1/2" circle at 50y. This was with Lapua...I still had enough boxes that I wanted to burn it up before I switched back to Eley. I may not switch again.

For the heck of it, I decided to stretch the legs on it and shoot at the 200y target. A quick calculation told me there was not enough angle on the scope, so I set the zoom to 8x to give me enough field of view and the parallax to 200, and aimed at the bottom post (after the last mildot). It was boringly easy to nail the 8" gong.

I'm *extremely* happy with the rifle so far. I still want to get it glass/pillar bedded, and I want to play around with putting shims under the barrel to tune it. As-is though, it's good enough to compete with next season.

Shane
I made this up for Wolf Match. I have shot it with all others, (SK Standard, Eley Tenex) and for tactical hold over, it is dead on. Copy it and laminate it and keep it with the gun...


http://i.imgur.com/dEMPJ.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by russ10x

Shane
I made this up for Wolf Match. I have shot it with all others, (SK Standard, Eley Tenex) and for tactical hold over, it is dead on. Copy it and laminate it and keep it with the gun...


http://i.imgur.com/dEMPJ.jpg

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Thanks, but with my rifle, it won't be valid at anything but 12x. I don't have an FFP scope on this rifle so the reticle stays fixed across all zoom ranges. Besides, the method worked just fine....can't ask for more than that.

You can do it, but the math does not make it practical..yes, stay with your system. But if you get a 10x, here ya go! You can pass it on..

I did keep it...i have a fixed 20x on my fv that this would work very well fur. Thanks!

remember to double your hold over.....this is for 10 X. I found that out the hard way!

The mils on the 20x are still true mils (3.6"@100y)...this should still work. The reticle is just bigger to compensate for the power level.

What make is the 20x..if it is a SWFA, it's not. the only way to do it is to make 2" dots on a target, 10 of them, connect them with a line vertically on a 100 yard target and see if they fit in. The Sniper's Hide sells targets that has this feature. My SWFA was doubled....

I'm fairly certain it is a true mil. I have the MilRad version, and when I set up a mildot confidence target, the diamonds were dead-on 3.6". There are hash marks at .5 mils.

According to their site, even the standard 20x mil-dots are true mils:

http://www.opticstalk.com/uploads/61...X42Subsbig.jpg

And the Mil-Rad version:

http://www.opticstalk.com/uploads/298/20XReticle.jpg

I could be wrong though... in fact it happens more than I'd like to admit.

Also, what program did you use to get the drop on that mil-dot? It's pretty clean-looking.

Actually no program...it is a page out of John Plaster's book "The Ultimate Sniper". You can do the same thing on JB, and when you get the solutions in MILs or MOA, make it out on a Word format by inserting a MILDOT reticle and adding the drops.

http://www.ultimatesniper.com/Shooti...-Holdovers.PDF

I have to say, I was inspired. I created a come-up chart using MSPaint. I made a mil-dot reticle (with exactly .36" between dots) and started crunching numbers. Mine lines up almost exactly with yours, except my 75y is a bit lower. I used a .132BC / 1066 MV for Lapua Midas+...I don't have a chrony so I used the published data. I then repeated the process for 2 more zeroes @ 100 and 150 yards. Then I made a sidebar with the drift for full-value wind. On the backside of the card is a drift chart with clicks to zero it out.

The math is fairly complicated but it works out easily enough and seems to be accurate based on comparisons to other peoples' published dopes.

I'm going to the range again on Friday to work on my Mk. II FV some more (I need to spend some time tuning it now that I have a good torque wrench) and I'll see how close this dope is then.

If anyone would like a blank copy and some instructions, message me and I'll do my best to explain.

The Mil-Dot reticle:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps88ce5adc.png

The drift chart:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps59496263.png

NOTE: This chart is for Lapua Midas+. It should be reasonably close for Eley, Wolf, SK, etc....basically any 40gr pill with a similar BC and MV. It's also using data from an 80 degree day with moderate-high humidity, which is the most common condition where I live.

Be very careful how much you torque the action. Many a blog warns about too much torque. Pay out the money and get this ingenious torque wrench:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod32490.aspx

I keep it in my drag bag for full bore comps. along with assorted torque heads. Posts on places like Rimfire.com say may 27 inch pounds at the most. Some say, (if you have a wood stock) torque till you hear the wood crackle. I think that is too much. There is no easy way to pillar bed this thing, and humidity does play a role...
Your chart is great! My BC was .135 and my MV was 1050. Like you, not chony'd. Let me know how you make out.

Actually I bought a Seekonk torque wrench with a 100 in/lb dial and a memory needle...from what I understand, they're fairly near the top of the heap for torque measuring tools.

I was worried about the torque too, but I've taken the action out and put it back in with no problems, and with the washers and bottom metal distributing the load I'm not as worried as before. Worst-case scenario, I get a Boyds varmint stock and send it to Dan Killough to be bedded.

I will report (with pictures this time, I promise!) on the success / abject failure of my scope chart this Friday. I also get to try out my new metal targets...the Champion self-resetting diamond pop-ups. Only $10 at wally world!

This was off JBM Calculations, simple trajectory....
I guessed your altitude and temp...

Trajectory (Simplified) Input Data Ballistic Coefficient: 0.132 G1 Caliber: 0.220 in Bullet Weight: 40.0 gr Muzzle Velocity: 1066.0 ft/s Sight Height: 1.80 in Line Of Sight Angle: 0.0 deg Cant Angle: 0.0 deg Wind Speed: 5.0 mph Target Speed: 3.0 mph Temperature: 50.0 °F Pressure: 29.53 in Hg Humidity: 50 % Altitude: 700.0 ft Std. Atmosphere at Altitude: No Pressure is Corrected: Yes Zero at Max. Point Blank Range: No Target Relative Drops: Yes Column 1 Units: 1.00 MOA Column 2 Units: 1.00 mil Round Output to Whole Numbers: No Output Data Elevation: 10.644 MOA Windage: 0.000 MOA Atmospheric Density: 0.07471 lb/ft³ Speed of Sound: 1106.7 ft/s Maximum PBR: 132 yd Maximum PBR Zero: 112 yd Range of Maximum Height: 62 yd Energy at Maximum PBR: 68.7 ft•lbs Sectional Density: 0.118 lb/in² Calculated Table Range Drop Drop Windage Windage Velocity Mach Energy Time Lead Lead (yd) (MOA) (mil) (MOA) (mil) (ft/s) (none) (ft•lbs) (s) (MOA) (mil) 30 0.4 0.1 0.7 0.2 1009.7 0.912 90.5 0.087 14.6 4.2 40 0.2 0.1 0.9 0.3 993.6 0.898 87.7 0.117 14.7 4.3 50 -0.6 -0.2 1.1 0.3 978.5 0.884 85.0 0.147 14.8 4.3 60 -1.7 -0.5 1.3 0.4 964.2 0.871 82.6 0.178 15.0 4.4 70 -2.9 -0.9 1.5 0.4 950.8 0.859 80.3 0.209 15.1 4.4 80 -4.4 -1.3 1.7 0.5 937.9 0.847 78.1 0.241 15.2 4.4 90 -5.9 -1.7 1.9 0.5 925.7 0.836 76.1 0.273 15.3 4.5 100 -7.5 -2.2 2.1 0.6 914.0 0.826 74.2 0.306 15.4 4.5 110 -9.2 -2.7 2.3 0.7 902.7 0.816 72.4 0.339 15.5 4.5 120 -10.9 -3.2 2.4 0.7 891.9 0.806 70.6 0.372 15.7 4.6 130 -12.7 -3.7 2.6 0.8 881.4 0.796 69.0 0.406 15.8 4.6 140 -14.5 -4.2 2.8 0.8 871.2 0.787 67.4 0.441 15.9 4.6 150 -16.4 -4.8 3.0 0.9 861.4 0.778 65.9 0.475 16.0 4.6 160 -18.4 -5.3 3.1 0.9 851.8 0.770 64.4 0.510 16.1 4.7 170 -20.3 -5.9 3.3 1.0 842.5 0.761 63.0 0.546 16.2 4.7 180 -22.3 -6.5 3.5 1.0 833.5 0.753 61.7 0.581 16.3 4.7 190 -24.4 -7.1 3.7 1.1 824.6 0.745 60.4 0.618 16.4 4.8 200 -26.5 -7.7 3.8 1.1 816.0 0.737 59.1 0.654 16.5 4.8

30/10/13 10:32, JBM/jbmtraj_simp-5.1.cgi

Great torque wrench. I bought mine for bare bones reasons! Looking forward to your results. I too would love to find a good smith, but I just paid out big bucks to have my Rem 700 re-barreled in 6.5 Creedmoor!

Without crunching the numbers, it looks like the JBM chart falls close to the reticle chart. Now I'm really getting stoked to try it out...I got two of the diamond targets, I may get 2 more and set them at 25 yard intervals starting at 75. They're 7.5" tall by 2.75" wide, so it should be a test of both the rifle and the accuracy of the chart.

Also, Friday is looking better and better. Forecast says no clouds and negligible wind. The range is deep in a woodline so it's pretty well wind-free unless it's gusting over 5mph.

Getting busy with the come-up charts! Here's one for an SWFA MILRAD scope. The click values at the bottom changed because these use 1/10 mil clicks (.36" @ 100y) instead of the usual 1/4 MOA clicks (.25" @ 100y).

The MILRAD chart:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...pse2a3cecc.png

Another noteworthy discovery: the SWFA SS scope has more than enough vertical travel to get the 150y zero. I'm not using any angled base either. I'm sure if I did, it would be even easier, but it works with a flat base. These are *fantastic* scopes!

I also mentioned a "full-value" wind for these charts....for me, that means 10mph. It makes the calculations ridiculously easy that way. So the charts are showing a constant 10mph wind from 3 o'clock. If it's 8 mph, just go 80% of the way to the mark for the range to your target....5mph go halfway. Ad infinitum. From the left? Just flip the chart the other way. From any other angle? Use the "clock rule" to determine how much to divide it by.

Clock rule: http://www.cybersniper.com/windus.htm

Last post for the night!

I decided to create a "Zero Checker" target to use on Friday to verify my zeros before I actually engage the longer-range targets. The idea is simple: Each box represents the POI at 50y for a zero at the given ranges. When aiming at the 50y box, the rounds should hit dead center in each box for the ranges given; up or down means I need to revise my charts, and left or right means the scope is canted the opposite direction.

The target:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psd2fdbc30.png

Shane. Are going to shoot that using hold overs with the mil dots?

No. The plan is to zero it at 50, then shoot 5 shots at the 50y zero. Then I'll re-zero the scope to 100 yards and shoot 5 more shots. If the match is correct, it'll land in the 100 yard box while I'm still aiming at the 50.

Basically, it's the reverse of using hold-overs; instead of moving the scope so the groups land in the same place at 50, I'm holding the rifle on the 50y target at all 3 zero settings and letting the POI change. The target is more to verify that my click values are correct for my zero ranges than it is to verify my holdovers.

However, the POI should still line up with the holdovers marked on my chart. In other words, if I'm aiming at the 50y box on my 100y zero setting, the POI should be ~2.2 mils high.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shanejohnson2002

However, the POI should still line up with the holdovers marked on my chart. In other words, if I'm aiming at the 50y box on my 100y zero setting, the POI should be ~1.9 mils high.

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That's what I was thinking. If you hold 1.9 mils over the 50 yard target the cross hair should be on the 100 yard target. This mil stuff is new to me, so I'm picking up a bunch of info here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by justinp61

That's what I was thinking. If you hold 1.9 mils over the 50 yard target the cross hair should be on the 100 yard target. This mil stuff is new to me, so I'm picking up a bunch of info here.

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I edited the original statement...I was creating a new chart for a guy at my office and the 50y was at 1.9 mils on his...it should be ~2.2.

You're getting the idea though. It took me a while (and a really good instructor) to learn this stuff. Making these charts is helping me keep it sharp too...the math is all coming back pretty quickly.

Keep in mind too these charts are a best guess at the moment. They should be reasonably close, but they would be even closer if I could measure my MV with a chronograph. Keep in mind they are set up specifically for the Lapua Midas+ round; changing ammo will cause the chart to be off. Also a change in ambient temperature will cause the POI to shift...I calibrated the charts to my average local weather. Hotter days = higher MV and less air resistance, colder days = faster drop. Your best bet is to learn how to make these things and calibrate it to your setup / weather.

I went to the JBM site and printed a couple charts for the CCI SV, they'll give me a place to start.

Awesome! If you need any help, PM me and I'll do my best.

Found some errors in my calculations...going to fix some of these charts.

1) The Drop Test target was WAY off. I must have divided by the wrong number or something. It's been revised and is reposted. EDIT: Re-checked the numbers....I'm an idiot. It'll work just fine.

2) Probably related to the above, but my click values for the 100 and 150 yard zeros are way off as well. Reposting that too. EDIT: Rechecked this too...but it was still wrong. Corrected version posted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shanejohnson2002

Awesome! If you need any help, PM me and I'll do my best.

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Thanks.

UPDATE:

Range visit went well. I took my "slightly" modified FV, and the new G out. The G performed very well, consistently grouping right at or a hair over 1 MOA, which is pretty much what I expect from a pencil-barreled .22. Unfortunately, so did the FV, and it's normally a .3-.5 MOA shooter. I'll tear it down and work on it some more.

Can the G be improved upon? I think so. A bedding job, a lapping job, and dampening the barrel with either o-rings or heat shrink should bring the groups down into the .7ish range, I'd expect. As-is though, I think I have a winning formula with this rifle.

The scope isn't the clearest, but it was dead-on and repeatable. I clicked back and forth several times between my 3 zeros, and it was on the money every time. I shot everything at 12x, which is where the mils are calibrated.


...which is more than I can say for my SWFA scope. The elevation turret stopped working, so I'm going to take that apart to and try to figure out what the deal is.


The charts were on the money too. The only change is the 150y zero...it seemed to be closer when I used 67 clicks instead of 68. Using the chart, the 200 yard steel diamond was fairly boring...if I missed it, it was definitely me and not the rifle. Needless to say, I was pretty happy that I was consistently hitting a 2.75x7.5" target at 200 yards with a pencil barrel.

Speaking of, the new steel targets worked like a charm. Loud, and they flop backwards when you hit them, so there's definitely visual and audible feedback.

Now, here's the pics! First up, the G:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps0bec8c60.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps4718a869.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps1e87df9d.jpg


Sigting-in target, to verify 50y zero:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psf017aa73.jpg

The drop test target....pretty dead-on, I'd say:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psa6dda0dc.jpg


And here's some pics of the FV:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps160f8627.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps2e37211e.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps5c044a3e.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps5c044a3e.jpg

And the rather disappointing targets:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psccc5a0cf.jpg

Best 2 groups:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps66514ec1.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...ps63179db9.jpg

And the new steel targets:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...psd06ee72f.jpg

Shane
Don't take down the gun. Let it settle in a bit. I bet this is heat/humidity issues. The groups you are shooting seem fine. Also, you shot the groups after shooting the first rifle. Your eyes will start to play with you. ( am I correct? the shooting order?) Try it the other way. Also, what time did you shoot the G, and then the FV? I don't believe it is the gun. Lastly if you can, get of the bench and go prone. Use a rear rest.

Your bipod is on the high side...like I said, shorten the bipod, get prone.

You can't really see it in those pics, but I do use a rear rest....or a rear squeeze bag rather. I guess I can try to lower the bipod...I'll be back out again next Wednesday or Thursday and I'll take them both with me again.