Here I Go

Awhile back I asked about a LA Savage I found in a LGS. That ended up not being the rifle for my project because I found this at the same shop a week later.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps6bbf9dac.jpg

A Stevens 200 in 300WM.
Action and Blot both look good and an out the door price of $299 was even better. The scope is a BSA which will go in the ever expanding parts bin for friends and the stock will have a similar fate.

I plan to build this up as a LR Shooter so stayed tuned.

Here are my thoughts on the project:

New barrel (heavier contour & and need in put on length and twist)
Bolt work & Recoil Lug (fluting and handle from SSS)
Choate Stock (found a deal on one for less than $200 so I snatched it up)
Bottom Metal & Inletting by CDI
Cerakote Action & Barrel (Not sure on Color or Camo yet)
Optics (Millet/Mueller or Weaver right now. I know I can spend more, but I have been really happy with these two brands for years)
1 Piece 2MOA Weaver Base (Found it today for $29 local)
Harris Bi-Bod
Sling
Rear Bag
Hard Case
Drag Bag/Mat

Cost To Date - $528 (rounded to nearest dollar)


Here are some more before pictures

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psb8a2a461.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps0bb123be.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psa966f6e0.jpg

Stay Tuned

What will the new barrel be chambered in?

No after market trigger? The rest sounds like a solid build. You'll really be happy after Fred returns your action... buttery smooth and bling too.

Keep us up to date.

I had given serious thought to a trigger, but it seems that the factory one breaks clean and does not have a bad pull. Odd I know but something I want to shoot once I get it built up and then change if I want/need to. It should be fine to change it as the last thing, right?
I was going to stick with 300WM for the caliber. I know there are lots of better BC calibers out there, but I have experience with the 300 and a boatload of tech support both for shooting and the caliber from some guys at work who have lugged the 300 in some not so friendly places. If I don't like the caliber I can always build another! :)

If you are having a time and true done by SSS, I think, am NOT positive, but think you need to stick with that trigger that was there for the T&T or you will lose the benefit of it. Somebody will come along here and let you (us) know for sure.

I had a muzzle brake installed on my 110 in .300 mag, otherwise, looks like good plans to me. I can't imagine it would be comfortable to touch off that sporter in stock form, especially with the eye relief on that BSA scope ...

So after reading responses to date, I have a question. I have never had a rifle/action & barrel timed/trued.
With the threaded set-up of the Savage/Stevens platform, what does this do and how does it do it for accuracy. I get how a beefier and squared up recoil lug interacts with the stock better. Does a T&T just carry that principle to the action? Thanks for the input.
I really can't believe someone would want to shoot a 300WM in that tupperware stock. It would be brutal I imagine.

In the Faq section you will find this article that tells you what a timing and true job does.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...uing-Explained

Update:
Ordered and received a Choate stock for a deal @ $199. It has since been reshipped to CDI for in-letting and I received an update today that it is in the mail back to me!
Found a Black Hawk Bi-pod on clearance for $40 locally so picked it up and tried it out on a .308. So far I like it and will move it over to the .300 when needed.
Ordered a Bushnell Elite Tactical 6-24x50 Mil-Dot SFP.
Ordered a McGowen 26" 1:10" barrel from Gun Shack today.

Cost to date (Rounded to Nearest $):
Donor Rifle: $299
Weaver 20 MOA Base: $29
Choate Stock: $214 (includes Shipping)
Stock Inletting: $269
Bi-Pod: $40
Optics: $650
Barrel: $289
Total: $1,790

Pictures of items when they arrive.

Its going to be a heck of a rifle when its done!!!!!

Update:

The man in the big brown truck was very good to me the least couple of days and I'm getting ready to start really working on this thing. Here are some pics:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psd9f79182.jpg
All the old girl taken apart.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps5d285b0c.jpg
Action Wrench and Barre Nut Wrench. These two items took my action and barrel apart in about 30 seconds once I got the barrel into the vise!!

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps64cfa57d.jpg
New Stock back from CDI and already got some work done to it. I did not like the "Cups" that are in the Choate and will install QD cups

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psffda2266.jpg
McGowen 26" 1:10 barrel

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps8b6840f3.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps3ab855b6.jpg
Bushnell Glass

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps5e982073.jpg
Black Hawk Bi-Pod

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psdb4788d5.jpg
Pretty Much all of the "New" parts ready to get going. Still waiting for the new Barrel Nut and Recoil Lug (should be here tomorrow!) And I need rings for the optic.

I couldn't wait and mock it up for the post. I will be using different rings as stated above.
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps01643974.jpg

Cost To Date (Rounded to nearest $):

Donor Rifle: $299
Weaver 20MOA Base: $29
Stock: $214
Inleting & Bottom Metal: $269
Bi-Pod: $40
Optics: $650
Barrel: $289
Tools: $139
Recoil Lug: $25
Barrel Nut: $14
Total $1,968

Picking up the correct media on Sat and will begin serious work next week when I get off of work. Stayed tuned.

Scott
.

Looking good Scott!

I'm interested in your "Cups" that you are going to install. When you say "Quick Release" , As in the push button ones?

I reckon some QR Warne Low rings will work for your scope as well...

Yeah the push button QD Cups. Probably going with the ones in the link below.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/960...polymer-stocks

How heavy is the choate stock? You build looks very nice and I personally cant wait till we see how good the mcgowen shoots for you. I have a new ss .308 heavy barrel just sitting and waiting for me to get off my couch and change it out for next season.

According to the literature 6.2lbs. I have not weighed it, but I am planning on filing in the grip and butt-stock for extra weight and a little bit more of a "Solid" feel. It is not bad with those two areas hollow, I just feel better about it.

Picked up the media a while ago, and after things have settled down around here (floods and what not) Got going this AM. I picked up a muzzle brake from Nathan at Muzzle Brakes and More so added a little more to the price tag but I am in the might as well phase.

After tracking down some 120 media for blasting and cleaning, this is what the parts look like after a trip through the cabinet.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps5f0e2ddb.jpg
Business end threaded and ready

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psdeb0c0c0.jpg
Action

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps4786aa7a.jpg
Bottom Metal and Misc parts (Lug is not in the Picture)

While I was blasting I threw in My project 1911 Slide & Frame as well as a "test" AK mag for yet another project.
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps5b565c7e.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps98e053cf.jpg

Cleaning and Cerakoting starts tomorrow AM. Going with MagPul FDE.
Pics won't be up until this weekend though (I gotta get back to work on Thursday)

Thanks for the update. I just finished my 270wsm in Magpul FDE (duracoat). I think you will like the color.

Guys & Gals,
It has been far to long since I updated my build (funny how Life, Work, Kids, Wife seem to take away my "Free" time) so here is the latest update with a question thrown in as well. (Mods if this is now in the wrong place please forgive and I will move it.)

Pictures awaiting upload tonight, but all things are Cerakoted (Magpul FDE) and test run of assembly went well. Working on my texture of the stock today and will get that done as well as the first coat of paint on the stock this weekend.

Here is my question: Please tell me if I am missing a step (I really don't want a bomb to go off next to my head when I range test her)

Do I have the steps right for barrel/action assembly and head-spacing:

1-Barrel nut fully threaded onto barrel
2-Recoil Lug on barrel
3-Barrel Nut Wrench on barrel
4-Barrle into Barrel Vise
5-Anti Seize the Barrel Threads
6-Action Threaded part way onto Barrel
7-Action Wrench onto the action
8-Bolt into Action
9-Headspae Go Gauge into action and close bolt
10-Screw barrel down to contact the "Go" Gauge (until the barrel stops)
11-Check positioning of Recoil Lug for engagement
12-Work bolt several times. The bottom of the bolt throw should feel "tight" at no other time should the throw feel "tight" or "stiff". This is minimum head-space
13-Hand tighten barrel nut then engage the barrel nut wrench and tighten with wrench.
14-Recheck head-space with bot throw as above
15-Remove "Go" gauge and place "No Go" gauge in chamber
16-Try to work action GENTLY! and the bolt should not close on the "No Go" gauge.
17-Engage barrel nut wrench and torque wrench then torque barrel nut to spec 40 foot lbs?
18-Recheck head space with both "Go" & "No Go" gauges
19- Go shoot!

Thanks

I'll get pics put up tonight

Scott

It took awhile, but here are the pics of the components Cerakoted.


Barreled Action
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps0980c28e.jpg

Bottom Metal
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psff825dc8.jpg


Close Up Of the Action
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps329d066d.jpg


Stock is drying and will have pics soon.

A little FYI on that Choate stock. Keep on eye on the frt adjustable bipod lug. It wants to works itself loose and move forward after youve sent a couple of rds. Happens more-so if you finger tighten the bipod as opposed to using a screw driver or allen wrench.
Dont forget to use a good quality paint promoter to apply on the stock before you paint the plastic.
So far its looking good........congrates.....

I really like the color scheme....desert tan?

I dimpled the rail to "Set" the locking screws into. I also went with different adapters (Harrris #4's) if memory serves. I id wonder about them "moving" when I took everything apart. The color is Magpul FDE and the stock will be a shade or two lighter with a black spider web.
Order a few misc part today and I should finish the stock by the end of the week.

I'm really liking this thread... keep it up bro! Can't wait to see the final results!!! I'd like to have your refinishing skills and equipment. That turned out looking great- I can't wait to see how it looks in the stock when you get done with that piece!

P.S. I have the Bushnell Elite fixed 10x on my 18" heavy barrel AR build and it is the most solid scope I have ever used. I think you'll be happy with your Bushnell. It looks like the turrets are the same if not very similar.

There are plenty of "High End" scopes that are an absolute joy to look/shoot through. I'm not laying my life or someone else's on the line at when I shoot so I really can't justify the $2,000.00 plus for one of those. And to be honest I think the Bushnell is a quality scope that gets the job done just as well. The refinishing takes some time and patience and %90 is the the prep, but my wife HATES it when I oven cure parts in the kitchen!!!!

Pictures of the stock are forthcoming.

Anyone have input on the head-spacing steps I outlined earlier in the thread?

I think you have the steps to installing and head spacing the barrel down pat.

Bushnell makes great scopes. I have a couple of them on some of my gas guns.
I love to set up at the firing line along with my FCP-HS in 308 topped off with a BSA Tactical 6x24x44.(can only find it at Midway) It has never let me down and it serves up humble pie nicely against shooters that have spent 3 times as much.
I was going to drill and tap the slide at the frt of the Chaote adjustable bipod adapter but Ive found if I just use an allen wrench to lighty torque the bipod to the choate it wont come loose any more.
Its looking so nice your not going to want to shoot it and get things dirty!..lololololo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sbarcewski

...I'm not laying my life or someone else's on the line at when I shoot so I really can't justify the $2,000.00 plus for one of those...

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I couldn't agree with you more. This is my philosophy when buying stuff for my personal firearms; if I'm not taking it to war I don't need something designed to withstand war. I just need something that will work for my intended purpose. With scopes, this usually means buying from a reputable brand backed by a warranty. I went with an SWFA fixed 16x on my bolt gun because I just don't need to spend 4x that much for a variable power for what I plan to use it on (smacking steel). If Bushnell had a fixed 16x for a comparable price, I probably would have chose that over SWFA, but I can't complain. It's not the clearest scope in the world but but I only paid $250 for it.

How's that stock coming along??

I think the high end scope market is changing in our favor. Trijicon's accupoint series and others that can be shopped to the $750 range are changing the game. We all can't afford Nightforces and I am not sure the premium is justified as much as it used to be.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chrazy-Chris

I couldn't agree with you more. This is my philosophy when buying stuff for my personal firearms; if I'm not taking it to war I don't need something designed to withstand war. I just need something that will work for my intended purpose. With scopes, this usually means buying from a reputable brand backed by a warranty. I went with an SWFA fixed 16x on my bolt gun because I just don't need to spend 4x that much for a variable power for what I plan to use it on (smacking steel). If Bushnell had a fixed 16x for a comparable price, I probably would have chose that over SWFA, but I can't complain. It's not the clearest scope in the world but but I only paid $250 for it.

How's that stock coming along??

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Well said.
I paid $149.95 for my BSA. In the heat of the day @ 100dg plus, I get some mirage at full 24 power. I simple back it down to 20 and all is well.
I get alot of grief from even my closest shooting friends about the scope, but once they have proof of whats its consistantly capable of,then they basically forget its a scope of lesser dollar value. there more inclined to ask about the load Im using.
Ill keep shooting against shooters who sport Leos/Nikons/Swav/Spring field and alike and am easily keeping up with them from 100 out past 1K.
Would i spend the $$ for a more expensive scope?........ If I had deeper pockets?........yes!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sbarcewski

It took awhile, but here are the pics of the components Cerakoted.


Barreled Action
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps0980c28e.jpg

Bottom Metal
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psff825dc8.jpg


Close Up Of the Action
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps329d066d.jpg


Stock is drying and will have pics soon.

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I really like the color scheme youve got going.
Im thinking about using that color on my HS stock. It looks sharp against the flat black.
Where did you get the paint from?

Straight from Cerakote.
http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/
It the H series which is a heat cured "Ceramic" coating not really classified as paint. It can be applied to just about anything with the correct prep. Here are the limiting factors:

Ability to prep:
Blast and soak parts according to spec
Tools for application:
HVLP spray gun and ventilation
Ability to heat cure the part:
A 26" barrel with muzzle break is the max I can fit in the kitchen oven.
The part must be cured at 250 degrees for 3 hours which makes the house a little untenable with the fumes given off
And last but not least the parts ability to withstand the temp. Wood.Composite/Metal stock and/or chassis probably good to go. Plastic stock probably not.

Not all is lost they do make an air cured product and there are other options for heat curing.

Just discovered I may have bedded the action wrong (didn't head space the barrel before hand) so I may have to redo that portion of the stock!!!!!

bummer.......I run into the same problems when ive got a project going. I become impatient. nothen good comes from that I must say.
how much are you going to have to dremel off?

sbar, I don't see why you would need to re-bed the action. I never bed forward of the recoil lug anyhow. If you are concerned that the nut will be in a different spot or "twist", just inlet around it and call it good. That's my SOP, anyhow.

Well good news. Everything (except the bolt see below), went together without issue. Still waiting on a bolt handle and cheek piece. Yeah, Yeah I know pictures. They are coming but wanted to try and figure the bolt out before I started taking happy shots. She looks ready to go and like the serious weapon system I intended. Pictures will be forthcoming.

Now onto my issue. I have everything in place and bolted down, however when the bolt is inserted it will only close about 75%. It closes enough for everything to work just not enough that I would put a round downrange with it right now. I headspaced the barrel as per the outline I posted earlier in the thread, and a no go gauge was used. Knowing me it is probably something real simple. Suggestions?

Scott

Alright!!!!!
Took a deep breath and took everything apart. Then took another breath and assembled loosely at first and then started torquing things down. Turns out the front action screw was binding the bolt. so it is loose right now and after shortening tomorrow will be torqued. Bolt handle and Cheek piece are both en route so end of the month looks like a no brainer for field trials. Do you guys do anything special for the 1st shot other than stick your head behind a potential bomb if things aren't "right".

Pictures tonight


Scott

As promised here are the "almost" completed pics (bolt handle tomorrow & cheek piece after that). And I almost forgot that a 3 pack of mags (10rds) are on the way as well.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...psc505595a.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps5ff13cd8.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps977764d5.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps3cb98c78.jpg

Just saw in the pictures that I might have to sight her in on the bird that defiled our patio furniture!!!

Great looking rig man!! Awesome work...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sbarcewski

Just saw in the pictures that I might have to sight her in on the bird that defiled our patio furniture!!!

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It happens. :)

--Forest Gump

Really really nice looking job!

Off the wall question but......... tell me about that QD sling swivel socket you have on the butt stock?
It just installs with a couple screws?
That looks way easier than installing flush cups, and...if it ever got damaged, you can just take it off and slap a new one right back on again?
I can only imagine what a PITA it would be trying to replace a standard flush cup!!!!
Your solution sure looks a lot more user-friendly.

Donny,
Those QD cups are modified from a Ergo Stocks Pro93 AR butt-stuck. I had to sand the backside flush and contour some of the "profile" so I did not chew up my cheek or any other gear. I installed them with machine bolts before I filled the butt-stock with epoxy and filler for some weight so.... if something breaks it is gonna be a PITA to fix.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sbarcewski

Donny,
Those QD cups are modified from a Ergo Stocks Pro93 AR butt-stuck. I had to sand the backside flush and contour some of the "profile" so I did not chew up my cheek or any other gear. I installed them with machine bolts before I filled the butt-stock with epoxy and filler for some weight so.... if something breaks it is gonna be a PITA to fix.

---

Ah. I see. That suddenly doesn't sound as simple anymore ...:bolt:

That stock turned out great! What do you recommend prepping that plastic stock with?

How does she shoot? Let's see some groups!

Crazy Chris,
Wipe it down generously 3-4 times with acetone, then scuff the surface with a green scotch brite pad then another 2-3 wipe downs with Acetone. Wear gloves during the last wipe downs and don't touch the stock with bare skin until the paint is dry. High quality automotive primer or a thrown down coat of what ever color Krylon fusion paint, then follow up with your paint(s) of choice. I matte cleared this stock after the webbing was shot.

Entire setup looks really good, I like the color scheme, heck I like it all lol. Cant wait to see pics from the range.
Scooter