New HS Precision .308 bolt not opening.

HS Precision, bolt not opening, torque and assembly spec

I was wondering if there were some answers to my problem.
Well I have the model 10 with the HS precision stock that it came with from the factory and I took the gun apart to clean it and see whats going on in there. The screws came out at 40in lbs. After I assembled it, i went to rack the bolt and it moves up fine, but will only move back maybe 1/8inch. I then tried lowering the torque setting and no change. I've tried front screw first then the back screw and vice versa. The only way to get the bolt to function properly is with less than 10in lbs on the rear screw and the front screw doesnt matter. To me, this cant be right at all. I only use quality factory ammo and have put maybe 30-40 rounds through it. So my questions for all of you are, what am I doing wrong? What should be checked? And what is the assembly procedure and torque settings for this rifle?
I'm just really confused. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

mybe you got the screws backwards
drybean

Check your scope mount screws. If they are too long, the front ones can protrude into the area of the bolt head. Try removing them and see if that changes anything.

I had this problem with my rear screw. Just shortened the screw a couple of threads and it works fine now.

Yep, you have a screw in the wrong place. Check the lengths of the srews on top and on bottom.

I just encountered this very problem after bedding my hs precision stock. In the process of relieving the being block for adhesion of the Devon, it allowed the receiver to sit where it was meant to sit (flush with the block where the screws are). This resulted in an extra half thread protrusion into the receiver of the rear action screw. When i installed the barreled action i had the bolt installed and that little bit of extra length was just enough to keep me from pulling the bolt back. I could cycle it fine to Recock it but couldn't extract it.
Bottom line, remove about a half thread length from your rear action screw and you'll be fine. I promise...

A thin washer would confirm this fix before cutting your screw.

Even taking a whole thread length should not matter.
But not positive ?
I had to do the same thing to a Savage ML.


PSE EVO 60 Lbs.
Blacked out

Even more simple than that, just loosen the rear action screw a turn and see if the bolt frees up...

I would like to here back from the OP to see what the prom. was

drybean

Wouldn't we all. Nothing more frustrating than hearing about a problem and not getting updated as to the solution. I'm confident it's just that the rear screw needs to be shortened but wanna see if I'm right ;)

yes did that once myself...works wonders if you switch em around

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Originally Posted by ww1rdb

yes did that once myself...works wonders if you switch em around

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Did what? Swapped action bolt screws on accident? That would be impossible on this particular model. Difference in length is like 3/4"!

ok am not familiar with newer models but on older ones one screw hole was picky and if you used the wrong screw it would keep bolt from opening if you had it tight..sorry if I mis read anything...maybe I am thinking of something else..

Yeah, older models seem a bit finicky

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Originally Posted by bodywerks

Did what? Swapped action bolt screws on accident? That would be impossible on this particular model. Difference in length is like 3/4"!

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exactly......My model 10 has a HS stock on it and the action screws are hard to get mixed up.
Ive been scratching my head on this one. If the only thing that was done was a simple removed and install of the stock with no milling/grinding of the bedding alum. bedding block on the stock, then there sould be no problem what so ever with a reinstall. considering he only has but 30-40 rds thru the thing?Im wondering if "that" particular HS stock on his model came with a spacer?...I dunno, but something,s a miss here...lots of speculation on this one for sure

Ok everyone. Sorry to keep you waiting, i havent been home in a few days to check out the problem.
But the problem was the rear screw being a bit too long. Maybe i had some bolt stretch?(i dont know how) It had a very small shoulder on the end of it, so i filed it down to where the threads start and now it works like a charm.
Thank you all for the input.

So now to start another debate. What should be the torque setting be? I know it came with 40in lbs, but i see alot of debate about setting it to 65, on this site and other sites. Does it matter as long as they are the same or should i play around and see if there is a sweet spot?

Ok everyone. Sorry to keep you waiting, i havent been home in a few days to check out the problem.
But the problem was the rear screw being a bit too long. Maybe i had some bolt stretch?(i dont know how) It had a very small shoulder on the end of it, so i filed it down to where the threads start and now it works like a charm.
Thank you all for the input.

So now to start another debate. What should be the torque setting be? I know it came with 40in lbs, but i see alot of debate about setting it to 65, on this site and other sites. Does it matter as long as they are the same or should i play around and see if there is a sweet spot?

am waiting to hear that answer also...in fact have asked it in my thread..I know i read it years ago and wish I had made a copy.. it has a specific order to tighten the screws and how many foot pounds..

as I remember it said if it wasn.t done properly it could split the stock..I had a 110CL (older rifle) that had that problem and it had split the stock from the front screw hole to the metal floor plate where the clip feeds in...either I am blind or it hasnt been discussed..only thing I could find was for the AXIS...so have fingers crossed you get an answer

Oh, thats no good.
I just figured someone, somewhere would have an answer to that. All i have found is specs for other rifles as well.

If you have a plastic stock and you are torquing it to 40 in/lbs and all of the sudden your screw is sticking up into the action. Now you are wondering if you need to tighten it more maybe you should stop and think for a minute! You are pulling the screw through the stock for christ sake. Your gun my shoot great at 20 in/lbs but now that the stock is all extruded and tweaked it may not ever shoot right untill you replace the stock. Just a thought.

I was asking about a wooden stock...guess you didnt read what I asked..and yes it was a problem with some older guns where they werent tighted right and the stock split from recoil..I have never had trouble with screw into the action but have had a stock split..but thanks anyway

And my stock has the aluminum block in it so it shouldnt be a problem, unless i split the aluminum, but it looks like the bolts will stretch before that happens. Haha.

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Originally Posted by oaddis3

Ok everyone. Sorry to keep you waiting, i havent been home in a few days to check out the problem.
But the problem was the rear screw being a bit too long. Maybe i had some bolt stretch?(i dont know how) It had a very small shoulder on the end of it, so i filed it down to where the threads start and now it works like a charm.
Thank you all for the input.

So now to start another debate. What should be the torque setting be? I know it came with 40in lbs, but i see alot of debate about setting it to 65, on this site and other sites. Does it matter as long as they are the same or should i play around and see if there is a sweet spot?

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I have one just like yours.
I do 65 in. Lbs.



PSE EVO 60 Lbs.
Blacked out

I always do 60-65 in/lbs.

Same gun. 65

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Originally Posted by oaddis3

And my stock has the aluminum block in it so it shouldnt be a problem, unless i split the aluminum, but it looks like the bolts will stretch before that happens. Haha.

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it does indeed have a thick aluminum bedding block. I have an HS stock as well on mine and from my stand point, Its rowbust,very well built and configures well into the reciever. This is why (to me) something isnt right. I dont have your stock in frt of me as to have a comparison, but aluminum against carbon steel isnt gonna give that easy, especailly with only 30-40 rds thru it.
Only thing I can think of is thta your HS stock model doesnt extend the aluminum block to the rear action screw allowing the rear of the stock to "give"....a spacer that may have been intergrated into the rear of the stock that may have come off?.......
I personally twist mine tighter than 40 in lbs as do others 60-65.
I pull,d my actions screws out, installed the bolt, mic,d the depth from bolt to stock at the action screw holes for clreance values, purchased high carbon allen heads with a thicker boss/shoulder, cut the bolts to lenght, cleaned and blued the bolts. I did this because I notice that my frt action screw wasnt threading into the reciever but maybe 3 threads. I wanted to get maximum attachment surface which basically meant I was able to get 2 more threads into the reciever. it put my mind at ease knowing that Im torqueing the actions screws just a bit tighter and i have ample threads being carfeull not to over tighten and cause "tension" issues to the reciever.
Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ww1rdb

I was asking about a wooden stock...guess you didnt read what I asked..and yes it was a problem with some older guns where they werent tighted right and the stock split from recoil..I have never had trouble with screw into the action but have had a stock split..but thanks anyway

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Sorry WW, I was responding to a different post. I had not even read yours.

Since we do not at this point and time know what grade the action screws are, I am thinking grade 5, it is difficult to determine at what point the screws will yield and what the proper torque specs are. If you lubricate the threads the torque limits are greatly reduced. I dont think you would start to see the screw stretch until over 100 in/lbs or more, possibly less if lubricated. The alluminum bedding blocks in the accustock may be spread at higher torque values. How are most of you checking your torque?

I use a FAT wrench set at 65 inch pounds

Here come the flames, but in MY OPINION if your action and stock are properly mated (bedded) anything past
hand tight is overkill and stressing something.

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Originally Posted by thirty06

Here come the flames, but in MY OPINION if your action and stock are properly mated (bedded) anything past
hand tight is overkill and stressing something.

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We have a winner!!!

So how do you bed a HS stock that has the aluminum blocks?

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Originally Posted by Szumi

So how do you bed a HS stock that has the aluminum blocks?

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Rough up the aluminum, even remove a little with a rotary file or sanding drum on your dremel (everywhere except where the bolt holes are. And then bed like normal. Simple. This is an hs precision stock i just bedded:
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/z...psb4eecda7.jpg