110 Light primer Strikes

Hello All,

I have a question someone can hopefully help me with. I got a 110 in 7mm reg, the serial is 413xx, so it's an older one. Took it to the range to day with a box of rem. core-lockt. 9 of the 20 rounds didn't fire and they seem to have light primer strikes. Two of the men at the range thought it might be a cracked firing pin, or that there was too much grease and dirt in the bolt. Any one have any other ideas? Still under the 30 day warranty from Gander Mountain, so will be taking it back for them to fix. Anyone have a similar problem?

I never had that problem, but I've sure spent a lot time cleaning others!

My first plan of attack would be dissembling the bolt and give it a good cleaning and go from there. Being a used rifle chances are better than not the only thing ever cleaned was the barrel and the outside.

Bill

Could be one of three things...

1. Ammo could be a little short compared to what the headspace is set to, allowing the round to be pushed forward a little by the firing pin
2. Firing pin protrusion might be to short and in need of adjustment
3. Firing pin spring may have weakened just enough after 50 years of use

First thing I'd do is try another brand of ammo just to see if that resolves the issue or not. If it does, the Rem Core-Lockt was the issue. If not, you'll have to have a gunsmith check the headspace and firing protrusion and adjust it accordingly.

this will help you with #2 in MrFurious' post.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...rotrusion-Data

If you can, pull the bullets to a longer OAL. That will hold the case head against the bolt head. After you change the OAL of the round, see if the FTF rounds will go bang. Once the brass is fireformed to your chamber, make sure you arn't pushing the shoulder back too far. (if you're reloading) And it probably would hurt to clean out the bolt, just in case.

I caused this problem to myself once. Cleaned and oiled bore, put gun away for some time without wiping excess oil from bore. Oil drained into bolt-firing pin assembly causing sluggish strikes. Cleaned bolt and problem solved.
Mr. Furious gave good advise, listen to him.

thanks everyone.

BillPA- I will be trying that

MrFurious- I was thinking it could be headspace, too. I'll try a different brand of ammo next time. Is there a certain brand you would recommend I try? I also didn't know quite how old the rifle was, so thank you for that info.

devildogandboy- thanks for the link, I'm planing on getting the rifle back to Gander for them to deal with, hopefully they don't screw it up...

Nor Cal Mikie- If I had any of the equipment I would try that. What does FTF stand for? I'm new to firearms.

farmboy- The bolt did seem to have an excess of oil on it, but I'm not sure how much it should have.

FTF= failed to fire.
I've had a few rounds that FTF (failed to fire). What was happening was the firing pin was pushing the rounds forward in the chamber (because the rounds were too short) and the primers not being hit hard enough to go off. Made the OAL of the round longer by pushing the bullets into the lands. That held the case head back against the firing pin/bolt head and when the firing pin fell, the rounds went off. Could be as simple as that. Once the brass got fireformed, no more problem.
And if you're not reloading, try different ammo and clean the bolt, just in case.

yeah that would make sense. If it comes back from Gander, took it in tonight, still having issues I'll get oil off the whole thing and try some different ammo regardless. I'm not handloading yet.

Recently, I went through this. Bought a .300 RUM barrel, and my first attempt to fire failed. Ammo was Remington Premier Core-Lokt Bonded Power Level II 180 gr. A repeat strike also failed. Next round fired. Then I went through a random set of success/failure with the next six rounds.

I asked for advice on another forum and every technical reply presumed headspacing. I repeated the rebarreling procedure and had no better luck. Long story short, I called Remington and sent the box back; unfired dimpled cartridges, spent brass and untested rounds. Last week, I got a packgage and letter, and this excerpt is their findings.

"The head to shoulder dimension was below process minimum specification. This condition may cause the shell to crush up in the chamber as the firing pin strikes the primer and deliver a soft blow by the firing pin. The primer mix sensitivity was found to be normal. Sometimes our equipment acts up and we have to apologize."

Don't know if this helps, but you might find it useful for diagnosis, anyway. They did me right; the PPL II CLB was exchanged for some PPL III with 200 gr. Swift A-Frames.

Do you remember the lot # on the ammo sent in ? If so please post as others mite ruin a trophy shot with just a click and no bang.
Thanks , Gary

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Originally Posted by Opus Dei

Recently, I went through this. Bought a .300 RUM barrel, and my first attempt to fire failed. Ammo was Remington Premier Core-Lokt Bonded Power Level II 180 gr. A repeat strike also failed. Next round fired. Then I went through a random set of success/failure with the next six rounds.

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That sounds similar to my problem, no patten to the failures. How long ago was this?

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Originally Posted by Gmac5

Do you remember the lot # on the ammo sent in ? If so please post as others mite ruin a trophy shot with just a click and no bang.
Thanks , Gary

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I'll check the lot on my box if I get it back (it's at Gander with the rifle right now) and post it.

The rifle heaspaces off of the shoulder, not the projectile. Pulling the projectile will only push the round back into the bolt if you are forcing the projectile into the lands.. which will cause a pressure spike.

That said, the extractor is most likely going to hold the round back well enough for a proper strike.


I'd check FP protrusion and set it near max recommended (there is a how to on the front page). I'd clean the bolt and the FP channel (full disassembly), and I'd get your headspace checked to see if its off.

This is amazing. I just bought a 110 in .30-06 and went through a box of Hornady with 165 grain bullets with two failures. Primer dimple sure looked good to me, and I've been reloading for 30 years. It also has a serial number in the same range, 43xxx. Firing pin seemed clean. I haven't checked the headspace yet. I was going to check with Hornady to see if they wanted to examine the 2 shells. Thanks for bringing this up, and the suggestions on things to check.

Is there a thread or article on the disassembly of the old bolts and rifles?

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Originally Posted by scythefwd

That said, the extractor is most likely going to hold the round back well enough for a proper strike.


I'd check FP protrusion and set it near max recommended (there is a how to on the front page). I'd clean the bolt and the FP channel (full disassembly), and I'd get your headspace checked to see if its off.

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I don't think the ejector was pulling the cases back, and it really shouldn't have to be.

It will be getting a full cleaning when it gets back.

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Originally Posted by BeatCJ

This is amazing. I just bought a 110 in .30-06 and went through a box of Hornady with 165 grain bullets with two failures. Primer dimple sure looked good to me, and I've been reloading for 30 years. It also has a serial number in the same range, 43xxx. Firing pin seemed clean. I haven't checked the headspace yet. I was going to check with Hornady to see if they wanted to examine the 2 shells. Thanks for bringing this up, and the suggestions on things to check.

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I had 9/20 that didn't fire, so maybe my rifle started out like yours and thats why whoever had it before me sold it. I'll be sure to post the update when I know.

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Originally Posted by Gmac5

Do you remember the lot # on the ammo sent in ? If so please post as others mite ruin a trophy shot with just a click and no bang.
Thanks , Gary

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No, sir. In retrospect, I should've noted that. No telling how long that ammo was around @Cabela's; it wasn't a shopworn box, but that's not a high-demand caliber, either. I can say it has to have had some age on it, since the current Remington Premier PL ammo has a mini DVD in the box.

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Originally Posted by GodandGunsCowboy

That sounds similar to my problem, no patten to the failures. How long ago was this?

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My deal was over a period of ~early September to latter October. I bought the ammo after Labor Day and didn't get to shoot until next weekend. The failures prompted asking for advice on another forum, subsequent re-barreling, another test shoot and another Q&A. Ammo was sent back about three weeks ago and got the replacement late last week.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gmac5

Do you remember the lot # on the ammo sent in ? If so please post as others mite ruin a trophy shot with just a click and no bang.
Thanks , Gary

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No, sir. In retrospect, I should've noted that. No telling how long that ammo was around @Cabela's; it wasn't a shopworn box, but that's not a high-demand caliber, either. I can say it has to have had some age on it, since the current Remington Premier PL ammo has a mini DVD in the box.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GodandGunsCowboy

That sounds similar to my problem, no patten to the failures. How long ago was this?

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My deal was over a period of ~early September to latter October. I bought the ammo after Labor Day and didn't get to shoot until next weekend. The failures prompted asking for advice on another forum, subsequent re-barreling, another test shoot and another Q&A. Ammo was sent back about three weeks ago and got the replacement late last week.


Edit: Sorry for the double-tap. I got a message showing there was a problem, so I re-submitted.

Okay, so mine could have been from the same batch.

Gander said they have to send it to their gunsmithing center and I should have it back in 2-3 weeks.

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Originally Posted by GodandGunsCowboy

Okay, so mine could have been from the same batch.

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Not the same brass, so not the same batch. 7RM is belted and based off .375 H&H. .300 RUM isn't belted and based off .404 Jeffrey.

oh yeah, I forgot you were shooting .300 RUM.

If you have changed the trigger and don't have enough over travel adjusted in will cause light strikes.

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Originally Posted by nwkman

If you have changed the trigger and don't have enough over travel adjusted in will cause light strikes.

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It's bone stock as far as I know. The trigger is heavy and breaks about midway through the pull.

Lot on the ammo was 29487, or at least I think it is, it's the only number on the box besides the upc which is 47700-05350

Send it to a qualified gunsmith, I appoligize for trying to help .

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Originally Posted by 375Win

For headspace issues just put a piece or two of scotch tape on the head of the case, if you can feel the bolt close a little stiffer it is with in specs.

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That can be true, but not necessarily so. Would you please take the time to elaborate on your post so you are not spreading what some might see as a possibly dangerous sweeping generalization.

See above have given a better explanation to the problem.

#1 Just to see if it is a sticky firing pin spray some Kroil or other penetrating fluid around the firing pin at the bolthead. Work the bolt and dry fire. Test. If that fixes it then dissassemble, clean, lubricate with proper lubricant, reassemble, test. Works Yea! Does not work go to #2
#2 Check to see if headspace is good. Test safety mechanism unloaded. Place a piece of scotch tape on the cartridge face, trim access around edges, pointing the rifle downrange with the safety on try to chamber the round and close bolt. If it does not close, Yea...your headspace is good. Test fire fails go to #3 If it closes try a second piece. If it closes you are probably at your limit at a minimum and may need to see a gunsmith.
#3 Using a depth mic, dial caliper or other suitable means, Check the distance that the firing pin protrudes from the face of the bolthead. It should be in the specs from the link above. If so...Yea! If not fix it or see a gunsmith.