How to load a savage so it doesn't jam?

I have 2002 116 30-06. Blind magazine, which I don't mind except when it jams. I load my other rifles from the top. The magazine is quite a bit longer then round, unlike my 700 actions. Should I be loading to the front? It has a tendency to get stuck in the magazine, or start to tilt up and get stuck. My scopes are to short to use a standard two piece base, so the rear hangs over the magazine a bit making this even more of a pain. 2x7 and 3x12 have to short of tubes to center over bases. As it is now, I have no adjustment. But I am not getting another scope now.

Other times the bolt just passes over the round. Not short stroking

I retired this rifle, but now I need it for a hunt. Any help would be appreciated.

Early on with my 110 with a DBM, on occasion the bolt would pass over the top of the round. This seemed to go away when I began to fully extend the bolt handle to the top of its throw and leave it there as I move the bolt forward to engage the next round. have to admit that I haven`t experimented with cycling the bolt with the bolt handle deliberately NOT moved to the very top of its throw.

It’s the Mag Box feeding. The follower spring could be weak, or more likely, the feed lips need tweaked a bit.

Need to take to someone who understands the concept fully & can properly diagnose.

As has been stated on multiple occasions, Savage factory magazines are hardly the paragon of performance.

As far as the scope rail issue; unfortunately yes, you must use either a 1-piece rail (my choice regardless, as it’s better support & mounting), or a long tube scope needs used.

If you explain your setup better with mounting or post a picture, we may be able to help. What scope mounting are you using? Bases/rails & rings?

I happen to have one piece. But it might be even harder to pull out cockeyed rounds, with blind magazine. Do you think it would help focusing on loading it to front of magazine, towards barrel? Some times they wont come out at all, sometimes get jammed.

Why are the magazines so long? So you can swap barrels with a magnum, or just cheaper for them to manufacturer, cause they can use in a magnum action?

I need a back up gun, so this gun got taken out of retirement. I had 3 fail to fires, so I retired it. I measured the firing pin, and took apart the bolt. So far it hasn't failed again, but only 50 rounds through it or so. My back up started having issues.



it is easy to close the lips on the magazine, but what do you use to open them? I was trying every big screw driver I had. Years ago some suggested closing, so I tried that, but that didn't help


New magazine?? I am running out of time. I can't figure out why sometimes it does and others it doesn't. Its not short stroking, i can watch it New springs?

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

As far as the scope rail issue; unfortunately yes, you must use either a 1-piece rail (my choice regardless, as it’s better support & mounting), or a long tube scope needs used.

If you explain your setup better with mounting or post a picture, we may be able to help. What scope mounting are you using? Bases/rails & rings?

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I've given up on scope mounting on this rifle. My scopes are just not long enough to work with savages, maybe it comes back to the real long magazine.

I just need to get it feed. I might put some kind of small screw driver in stock bag for digging rounds out.

I recommend a Picatinny rail and Burris Signature Z rings and your scope mounting problems are solved. All my 110's are blind magazines and I have a 6BR that feeds OK. I am careful to load them as far back in the magazine as I can get them.

I was going to put a pic of the scope up, but doesn't seem to be an option to attach. I don't have a photo sharing account. But either way, the tube is not long enough to use with 2 piece bases on the two leupolds I tried. I'd like to at some point convert to weaver for scope swapping. So I'll need to use a one piece.

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Originally Posted by bsekf

I am careful to load them as far back in the magazine as I can get them.

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I was almost thinking they needing to be the front so the bolt would pick them up,and not pass over. The last jams they were in rear.

It is kinda sad that you have to pay attention on how you put a round in a bolt action rifle.

I like blind cause you can't lost magazine. Last one I bought I bough had hinged floor plate which works too. Would solve this problem. A new stock and hinged floor plate would help next year. But I might just retire this rifle again after the hunt. You won't get a second shot off, but atleast you can get the round out.


Just measured my trijicon, it is a hair shorter than leupolds. It came with a 8 point that I put on my 22.

When it is misloading, how many rounds are in the mag box? Is it just the last one or just one in the box, or does it also do it when it is loaded full?

You could Open the rear of the feed lips a little to allow the case head to rise up a little further so that the bolt head catches the case head on closing the bolt.

Before you do that, you could try adding a thin(like 1/8-1/4”) shim or something in the bottom of the stocks mag well under the mag spring to give it a little more upward pressure. If that fixes it then it tells you that the spring is weak. And gets you Thru your hunt.
None of us can tell you 100% what the actual cause is without the gun in our hands, so you’re gonna have to try something to what you have or order new parts. But we can advise you on how to tweak what you have to either repair the issue or prove what is causing it.

You May need to do both?

The problem with having your "fix" based on where you load the rounds is the fact that they do not have to stay there- especially on a rifle that could be handled rough in hunting situations. Under recoil the rounds are going to want to move forward.

Another problem is that many different things could be causing the problem- and while there's many people here who could help you out if they could see the actual issue- it is just a shot in the dark without knowing what's happening. If the bolt can pass over the next round then the obvious issue is that it needs to be presented up higher. That could be the ramps are holding it too low... not enough spring pressure... or the follower is binding and not moving to the top. If you are using round nose ammo you could try a more modern bullet (hunting HP or tipped) and see if that helps because they usually have a longer OAL.

It jams with spritzers. Never more than 2 . Not sure how many are in when it happens. I do one dry fire usually

To me it sounds like you need to adjust the feed lips... but we need more or better info to really help.


https://www.brownells.com/tools-clea...-feed-liptool/

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Originally Posted by Berserker

I happen to have one piece. But it might be even harder to pull out cockeyed rounds, with blind magazine. Do you think it would help focusing on loading it to front of magazine, towards barrel? Some times they wont come out at all, sometimes get jammed.

Why are the magazines so long? So you can swap barrels with a magnum, or just cheaper for them to manufacturer, cause they can use in a magnum action?

I need a back up gun, so this gun got taken out of retirement. I had 3 fail to fires, so I retired it. I measured the firing pin, and took apart the bolt. So far it hasn't failed again, but only 50 rounds through it or so. My back up started having issues.



it is easy to close the lips on the magazine, but what do you use to open them? I was trying every big screw driver I had. Years ago some suggested closing, so I tried that, but that didn't help


New magazine?? I am running out of time. I can't figure out why sometimes it does and others it doesn't. Its not short stroking, i can watch it New springs?

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A pair of Flat Jaw Vice Grips works well. Like these. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GR...85&sr=8-3&th=1

Or you can use regular grips/pliers. The wide Vice Grips allow even adjustment.

I was having trouble finding something that would open them.

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Originally Posted by Berserker

I was having trouble finding something that would open them.

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Yes, grips like the link I posted will open them. You don’t squeeze using them, they will grab each mag lip independently & you can bend them up or down precisely.

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Yes, grips like the link I posted will open them. You don’t squeeze using them, they will grab each mag lip independently & you can bend them up or down precisely.

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Maybe I am a moron. But with the vice grips I can only squeeze??? Those are probably better than how I tried to tighten lips, but how do I open lips?

Not sure how you’re trying to open it with just a screwdriver? I guess prying it against the other side? That won’t work well. You need to grip the feed lip with pliers of some sort.

The vice grips Dave posted the link to are perfect for doing this, as they wont put gouge marks on the feed lips like if you use regular pliers. And it will adjust the whole lip at once. Yes you can use channel locks or something like that and pry out while work your way down the feed lip on each side, but if you do be sure to put a rag in between the lip and the pliers to minimize any gouging marks.
You only need a Small adjustment. Just a little tweak to each side. Then try it. Maybe you can measure the amount the case sticks out before and after? Might be tough to get an accurate measurement.

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Originally Posted by Berserker

Maybe I am a moron. But with the vice grips I can only squeeze??? Those are probably better than how I tried to tighten lips, but how do I open lips?

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They are used like this below. But I’ll be honest, if you don’t understand this completely, perhaps you should not adjust anything. Changing things without the full knowledge of what is happening only serves to cause more trouble.
https://i.ibb.co/rwmy10T/694694-A8-A...6-B6862-A2.jpg

There is also this style. The actual tool. (I would just make one)
https://www.kiprecision.com/shop/ki-...n-mag-lip-tool

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Berserker

Maybe I am a moron. But with the vice grips I can only squeeze??? Those are probably better than how I tried to tighten lips, but how do I open lips?

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Pretty sure what Dave is telling you is that you don’t squeeze the entire mag box. You lightly clamp it into one feed lip at a time and tweak it.

Beat me to it Dave.

I rebuild engines. So I know a bit about wrenches. It just seems getting a good grip on it i tough.

I was thinking something that opened up, like how you do with circ clip pliers.

It’s your call. I wasn’t trying to impugn, only further educate with caution. Of course I don’t know you or your background. I can only gauge by the questions individuals ask here.

Here is a video with detailed explanation & demonstration.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TUqHxlOOIQ

Good luck with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

It’s your call. I wasn’t trying to impugn, only further educate with caution. Of course I don’t know you or your background. I can only gauge by the questions individuals ask here.

Here is a video with detailed explanation & demonstration.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TUqHxlOOIQ

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Good Video.

Nice video Dave! Like that it showed him measuring it and not just wingin it.

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Originally Posted by want2ride

To me it sounds like you need to adjust the feed lips... but we need more or better info to really help.


https://www.brownells.com/tools-clea...-feed-liptool/

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I didn't understand what I was looking at, when I first looked at this. It has a lip to grab the lip. I thought it was just the box and not showing your the tool

I just took the rifle apart this weekend. I think Ill try the vice grips, net week, they might be use for something else.

I have to admit my first time torqueing stock. I suspect most of us are way off, and to tight. I always tq the scope. Make sure to check for your rifle, these old ones, don't take much. New ones a lot more with aluminum bedding blocks.

In addition to this, I am not sure happy with the way I shoot this light rifle. Will get some nice grouping and then some bad shots. Unfortunately it appears it might like nosler better than interlocks, which are cheaper and easier to come by. When I have more time maybe I'll play with seating depth and speed of interlocks.

Interestinly I believe the partions are set deeper in their manual. Closer to the lands is generally thought to be better.

I would rather shoot hornady based on price and availability.

No, most of us here have the Action screws torqued correctly. There are actually more than a few threads discussing torque specs and many who play with various torque settings in an attempt to tune the harmonics to the load being used.

I don't think the average person torques action screws. I've taken apart a lot of rifles and actions, and never did. Poor reflection on me. I like tq wrenches. Do the scope.

These light rifles magnify errors, so trying to get everything right.

Fished two rounds out with a screwdriver this weekend. I did buy a pair of the duct bill vice grips. But then it failed to fire again. Round ejected with no mark on primer. This is what got it retired last time. Last time I measured firing pin protrusion and disassembled bolt. It was good for around 100 rounds, which was probably what was on it last time. Guessing I bought it used, but I am not sure it was shot much.

Was factory corloct that failed this time. Last time it was corloct and WLR primers.


My thread from 9 years ago. Stuck with this gun. Can't sell it.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...ailing-to-load
Curious reason to have a 60 second timer on this forum to do a search. What does it hurt??????

I have always put mine away cocked. Never thought about it. From what I google it is debated, but most probably put away cocked.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...r-strikes-help

I have had issues with vertical stringing with this rifle, which can be from heavy firing pin. Can always be lack of speed. I did add 1.5 grains, and that has not been an issue. Also a different bullet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Berserker

Fished two rounds out with a screwdriver this weekend. I did buy a pair of the duct bill vice grips. But then it failed to fire again. Round ejected with no mark on primer. This is what got it retired last time. Last time I measured firing pin protrusion and disassembled bolt. It was good for around 100 rounds, which was probably what was on it last time. Guessing I bought it used, but I am not sure it was shot much.

Was factory corloct that failed this time. Last time it was corloct and WLR primers.


My thread from 9 years ago. Stuck with this gun. Can't sell it.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...ailing-to-load
Curious reason to have a 60 second timer on this forum to do a search. What does it hurt??????

I have always put mine away cocked. Never thought about it. From what I google it is debated, but most probably put away cocked.
https://www.savageshooters.com/showt...r-strikes-help

I have had issues with vertical stringing with this rifle, which can be from heavy firing pin. Can always be lack of speed. I did add 1.5 grains, and that has not been an issue. Also a different bullet.

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No firing pin mark indicates that the safety blade blocked the trigger from releasing the sear. This means that the firing pin cannot move forward. Adjust the trigger to a heavier pull weight/setting an it will function fine.

I did lighten it. But it worked for quite a few rounds, and worked after.

It also did this 6 years ago before I adjusted it.