Axis / Edge Stock Reinforcement Made Easy - Take II

Here I thought I was being clever! I should have figured someone else figured it out before me. In my own version of this mod, I drilled through the horizontal ribs with a 12"-long 1/4" drill bit and passed the allthread through all the holes. Next, I filled the first and last segments of the channel with AcraGlas and fiberglass floc. Finally, I filled the middle two segments with an AcraGlas/microballoon mix.

I also laid up a few layers of fiberglass fabric using epoxy on the outside of the forearm, but I'm dubious of how much that could help. I may try it again with slightly different approach.

DrThunder88, even with all the modifications to the stock for end, it still flexes, the only solution I see is for a stock manufacturer to come up with a replacement for the cheap factory stock. I had thought about purchasing another Axis with a standard bolt face to build a 6x47L but that won't be happening. As much as I like Savage rifles the Axis is below the bottom of my list.

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Originally Posted by DrThunder88

Here I thought I was being clever! I should have figured someone else figured it out before me. In my own version of this mod, I drilled through the horizontal ribs with a 12"-long 1/4" drill bit and passed the allthread through all the holes. Next, I filled the first and last segments of the channel with AcraGlas and fiberglass floc. Finally, I filled the middle two segments with an AcraGlas/microballoon mix.

I also laid up a few layers of fiberglass fabric using epoxy on the outside of the forearm, but I'm dubious of how much that could help. I may try it again with slightly different approach.

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Anything is better than nothing. The reason I started doing this is for bipod shooting. That's all I use (most of the time, anyway) The rods & epoxy thing will definitely help there. No matter how you slice it or dice it, it's still a $300 rifle. But they sure can shoot.

Maybe someday we'll see a nice after market stock. Someday...
Frank in Fla

I did more or less the same stuff to my axis rifles--and I am certain it does make mine shoot better. Plus I learned reloading on my axis 308--I can't think of a better gun to learn on.

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Originally Posted by thermaler

I did more or less the same stuff to my axis rifles--and I am certain it does make mine shoot better. Plus I learned reloading on my axis 308--I can't think of a better gun to learn on.

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I started doing this reinforcement thing some years back when I bought my first Stevens. I didn't like the way the stock moved especially being used to wood stocks & shotguns.
And, you're right. The .308 is a good versatile caliber to learn on. I'm just starting with the .308 within the past 2-3 months as well. It ain't no 30.06 but it is fun.

The savage mag and chamber on the axis lets you run your bullet seatings out to the moon and back if ya want. And thank God the 308 ain't no 30-06 : )

I have one of those fat, black, fluted barrels on a 110 action. It must have a real short throat. I like to seat bullets about .020" off for starters. With this barrel, if I seat too long & chamber check, the bullet gets shoved in a little further. It makes it easy to set up COL for a tight fit but the rounds come out too short for my liking.
Also , I can tell by the ring on the bullet from getting shoved in just where the rifling begins...

And whadddya mean "thank God the .308 ain't no 30.06?...." It's one of the easiest rounds to shoot. And the recoil helps loosen the wax in your ears. A little side benefit there...

My stock 308 axis has very generous mag and throat dimensions--the only drawback to that is that I think the bullets would fall out of the cases if I ran them to the leads : ) 30.06 = expensive to load safe queen in eastern US. : )

Frank is obviously too wise a man to fall for my feeble attempt to bait him--ironically enough I've noticed that factory 30 -06 ammo may be the one and only caliber besides 270 that is still fairly common on GS shelves. I just saw some yesterday at prices well under $20.00 a box, I figure that has to be less than what you would pay if you rolled your own! All of a sudden a few months of ammo use are starting to look like a good reason to buy a 30-06. :biggrin-new:

Around here .270, 25-06, 30-06, 300wm, and a few .243 have never be a issue to find....I would of thought with all the hunters liking those calibers those would be hard to find also! :confused:

Not an ammo thread. Let's get back on the subject at hand...or maybe it's time to close this thread.

I moved the discussion of 5.45x39 Russian to a new thread.

:focus:

Well, I just finished installing a "U" channel in my 243 Model 11 Savage standard issue Tupperware stock. I ran the channel, which I might add is very stiff, about 1" past the swivel near the front of the stock. Used JB Weld (15 hour set time), but I think I would like to find something which flows a bit better as there is very little space between the side of the channel and the stock. Will see tomorrow what it looks like...

Hope it works out for ya Willy. As far as the epoxy "flow".... Now you know why I mentioned the quick set type. it's thinner & flows easier.
let us know how that U channel works out. I have another stock I'm getting ready to traumatize. I'd like try something different. Maybe a steel I beam this time.....

Surprised how good the epoxy job looks this morning on the Savage 11. Mounted the action back into the stock; lots of room between the stock and barrel. (I did grind a little bit off of the forearm stock sides.) I was wondering about whether quick set epoxy was thinner, now I know, (much appreciated , fgw, for the write-up and photos), Mounting the "u" channel instead of 3/16" rod is probably a fair bit more work as I had to do a fair bit of grinding (I have a big grinder so that's ok!), to decrease the height of the channel etc, and I also collapsed the channel sides a bit with a big vise; the stock feels solid, hope it works! Made good use of the Dremel and oscillating saw! Just took my Savage Edge 22-250 apart and this stock looks much easier to epoxy, especially with a channel section, but I may just go up to the plastic block if I use a channel piece. Gotta go to the city later this week to pick up more epoxy. Fwg, is Devcon thinner viscosity than JB Weld?

Try Ace Hardware brand quick set epoxy. It's clear & runny. makes it pretty easy to get it to flow in tight areas. Mix in a small paper cup & pour.
JB was my second choice. Thin, runny but dark grey.

By the way, both smell bad.
Have fun.

Can't find an Ace store in Canada; will just have to try quick-set JB Weld. Are the recoil pads on the regular Savages or Edges glued on?? Want to put a little weight in the butt end to counter act the added weight in the front end.

Axis Edge rifles have one screw (the sling swivel stud) on the bottom of the stock near the recoil pad. Remove that and CAREFULLY push down on the square button on the top of the stock near the recoil pad until you can slide the pad off. Chances are you will bread the plastic that holds the button. I was able to do it once on my axis, but the second time it broke and I repaired it by epoxying it to some metal strap that was somewhat springy.

To the best of my knowledge, other Savage rifles have the traditional two screws in the centerline of the recoil pad.

The buttplate on mine seems solidly attached enough with just the sling swivel stud. I broke the square tab at the top of my stock when removing the buttplate to fill the cavity with epoxy foam and haven't missed it.

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Originally Posted by DrThunder88

The buttplate on mine seems solidly attached enough with just the sling swivel stud. I broke the square tab at the top of my stock when removing the buttplate to fill the cavity with epoxy foam and haven't missed it.

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That's good information. There's a few Axis stocks floating around here with that tab broken off. I was trying to figure a way around it.

I sorta overlooked that.

Mine has a round tab and if you are carefull you can take it off numerous times with out breaking it. Mines been off more than a dozen times without looking like breaking. Having said that, it probably will next time.
Tack

Frank,

Me and a friend of mine just redid his stock following your procedures. It worked really well and seems to really help the stock.
I noticed in some of the comments that you counter weighted the stock of your rifle. Do you think this is necessary on a .223 with a factory barrel? If so do you just take the butt pad off and epoxy some weight into the back of the stock?

any info is much appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm glad to know it worked out for you. As far as counter weight, I had to use some additional weight for the fat truck axle barrel(s) I used. if you're using a sporter type barrel, I wouldn't worry much about it.

If you do need or want additional weight, pop off the butt pad - carefully - & get creative. I have sheet lead on hand and I found door hinges epoxied in place with Styrofoam to help insulate works good.
Good luck with your shooting.

Thanks for the info. I assumed the counter weight was for the large barrel. I just wanted to make sure.
And thanks for your step by step guide. it was very easy to follow.

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Originally Posted by justinc68

Thanks for the info. I assumed the counter weight was for the large barrel. I just wanted to make sure.
And thanks for your step by step guide. it was very easy to follow.

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Yep.... the part about wallowing out the forend & counter weights was if you have a fat barrel. When you get tired of the sporter barrel I recommend watching the classifieds here & pick yourself up a nice SS flutie or Black Tactical.
Definitely makes a $275 rifle into a shooter.

Then, you too can smirk at the guys with $1200 Rems....
Have fun!

Haha yeah.

I have a 6.5 creedmoor that i built (with alot of help from a friend) from a .223 savage. It has a criterion barrel, sharp shooter supply trigger, and i put it on a bell and carlson stock. its by far my favorite.

im working on a 6mm BR as my next build. its quite addicting.

On my axis rifles I take the buttpad off--usually breaking the tab because it's a POS anyway and don't intend on "reopening" the stock. I do a similar treatment to the stock as the fore-end--I put a stiffening rod as far up to the wrist area as I can get it and then epoxy the rod at either end and fill the stock with a dense fire-retardant foam. My aim, so to speak, is not so much to reduce recoil as it is to reduce up and down flex in the stock when doing a cheekweld in aiming since the wrist area is really the worst offender in the overall stock flex zones.

I ended up filling all the holes around the action with epoxy and then drilled up through the pistol grip out into the action area and the jb welded a bent piece of threaded rod from there down to the bottom of the grip. I think it made a bit of difference. Has eliminated a bit of the flex. But I'm starting to think that the old saying "You can't make strawberry jam out of pig s#!+" is quite true in this situation. Still, it's a great light little shooter. And I love playing with things.
Tack

With my homebrew loads my modded axis 308 is now a joy to shoot and can do sub .5 MOA. It has a very nice balance and is easily handled and bring to bear on target with a sweet and simple 4 x 12 Leopold riflemen scope atop

Just doing my Edge stocks and some pointers:

Don't bother trying to go further with 1/4" rod than the front swivel post as there isn't room between the swivel post and side of the stock. (I can't even get 7/32" rod in that space so now I'll just have to make a short piece for the space between the swivel post and the front of the stock.)

Don't push that top square tang (for removing the butt piece) down more than 1/8". If you do, it will likely break....

Edge Tupperware stocks are a bit different from the regular 11/111 Tupperware stocks.

And now a question for the pros who have done this before. Would it be advisable to fill in the stock cavities that are around the pillar and recoil lug?

Congrats...
You've learned what the rest of us have using the trial by fire method.

I filled the voids on one of mine but I couldn't tell you if it helped. Have a go at it & let us know.

I'll fill mine in ....someday.....not now....because....more lessons learned:

JB Weld 6 minute epoxy set time is no thinner than JB Weld 4 hour set time. I tell you, you don't have to worry about the stock being level, that epoxy is so thick it aint goin' anywhere! I have to find Devcon somewhere in Canada! Hope it's thinner, then I can use that to fill small voids. And yes, I'm enjoying this! But I gotta find thinner epoxy.....somewhere....

I didn't make any big boo boos but next time gotta remember to put painter's tape on the side of the stock and the top edge.

Acetone & a rag takes the goop off if you catch it as soon as you're finished pouring it. Send me your address. I have a sample of what might help a bit. As soon as I find my way back into my laboratory I'll get the name for ya.

Have a safe Independence day or whatever it's called in Canada.

fgw, are you sure you want to ship something all the way to Canada? If you're in Florida, I'm guessing about 2500 miles north. Incidentally, we're having a bit of a scorcher right now, was about 90 degrees yesterday, near Winnipeg Manitoba.

Scorcher? What's that?
Are describing a spring day in Florida?

Besides, how much could it cost to ship a 3 - 4 oz. package up there? It's only money, of which I haven't much but what the heck.....
You can PM that info to me if you so desire....
Stay well.

Ok, I'll do that; BTW, has anyone here tried Permatex? I'll PM you tomorrow as right now I'm getting late to take my wife to the airport.

Roger.
Drive safely.

New to the site & did this mod to my .243. stiffened it up pretty nice ! Thanks for the great write-up !!
-John

Has anyone tried, or is anyone here familiar with the Permaoxy from Permatex? It's a five minute set and has a syringe to put the epoxy in small cavities. I am about to go and try it. Lepage has an epoxy that's described as "steel filled". Anyone familiar with that?

fgw: Next time I go to Home Depot etc. I'm going to look for the Loctite epoxy.

Don't look too hard. You have one kit on the way tomorrow morning.....

And I never heard of Lepage steel filled. Kinda sounds French....

lol (the french thing)

"A steel filled epoxy for filling and rebuilding all metal surfaces". Exact quote on the website for Rona for the Lepage epoxy.

I found a foam insulation product called Daptex which is supposed to be water soluble, hence hopefully easy to use, unlike the one use only can of Great Stuff spray foam. I'm going to try filling in the stock butt with this Daptex and see how it turns out.

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Originally Posted by Willy

I found a foam insulation product called Daptex which is supposed to be water soluble, hence hopefully easy to use, unlike the one use only can of Great Stuff spray foam. I'm going to try filling in the stock butt with this Daptex and see how it turns out.

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Just hope you never have to remove it for any reason like adding a little weight.
Remind me someday to tell you the story of a stock I filled with Liquid Nails & then decided to balance it a little better.....

Hey, how bout you tell us that story of a stock you filled with Liquid Nails & decided to balance it a little better!!!

I'm going to add a little weight to the stock (1/2 lb. ?) and then spray the Daptex foam insulation in.

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Originally Posted by Tack

Hey, how bout you tell us that story of a stock you filled with Liquid Nails & decided to balance it a little better!!!

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You want I should tell you about Liquid Nail when used as a stock filler?
Ok, I'll tell you....

It doesn't HARDEN unless it has air....
I pulled the pad off 3 months later, cut the crusty end open & all of this gooey Liquid Nail came running out. I had a major mess to clean up & the buzz from the acetone I used had me on cloud 9 WITH a nasty headache.

There.
Now you know.
I was stoopid.
When in doubt, read the instructions.

You may laugh briefly.....

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Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla

You want I should tell you about Liquid Nail when used as a stock filler?
Ok, I'll tell you....

It doesn't HARDEN unless it has air....
I pulled the pad off 3 months later, cut the crusty end open & all of this gooey Liquid Nail came running out. I had a major mess to clean up & the buzz from the acetone I used had me on cloud 9 WITH a nasty headache.

There.
Now you know.
I was stoopid.
When in doubt, read the instructions.

You may laugh briefly.....

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+1 That IS funny : ) Lucky for you it doesn't catch fire--you might have been the first shooter in history to go down with an ASE--accidental stock explosion.

PS--I've done worse--and it wasn't funny either.

Ya know therm, it's always the a good idea at the time. After the disaster, ya just gotta laugh.

Then, look for the number to the insurance company....

Aha....I finally found some Devcon epoxy in Canada at Acklands Granger, quite pricey, almost $12 for 25 ml. It wasn't in the same package shown in the photos at the beginning of this thread, but it's a clear liquid in the 2 in 1 dispenser. Hope to try it soon to see if the mixture is thinner and flows better than the JB Weld. Will keep you posted.

Hey Willy - If you're filling the voids, nooks & crannies in the grip area of the stock, have a piece of wire or paper clip handy to help work the air bubbles out. It makes it go a little quicker....